SIST EN 568:2016
(Main)Mountaineering equipment - Ice anchors - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Ice anchors - Safety requirements and test methods
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice anchors, i.e. ice screws and ice pitons for use in mountaineering including climbing.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Verankerungsmittel im Eis - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren fest für Verankerungsmittel im Eis, d. h. Eisschrauben und Eishaken, die beim Bergsteigen, einschließlich Klettern, verwendet werden.
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Broches à glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
La présente Norme européenne spécifie les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d’essai qui s’appliquent aux broches à glace, c’est-à-dire aux broches à glace à visser et aux broches à glace à frapper, utilisées en alpinisme et en escalade.
Gorniška oprema - Ledni vijaki - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Ta evropski standard določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za ledne vijake, tj. ledne vijake in ledne kline, za uporabo v gorništvu, vključno s plezanjem.
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Standards Content (Sample)
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.Gorniška oprema - Ledni vijaki - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metodeBergsteigerausrüstung - Verankerungsmittel im Eis - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und PrüfverfahrenEquipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Broches à glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essaiMountaineering equipment - Ice anchors - Safety requirements and test methods97.220.40Oprema za športe na prostem in vodne športeOutdoor and water sports equipmentICS:Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z:EN 568:2015SIST EN 568:2016en,fr,de01-januar-2016SIST EN 568:2016SLOVENSKI
STANDARDSIST EN 568:20081DGRPHãþD
SIST EN 568:2016
EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPÉENNE EUROPÄISCHE NORM
EN 568
November
t r s w ICS
{ yä t t rä v r Supersedes EN
w x zã t r r yEnglish Version
Mountaineering equipment æ Ice anchors æ Safety requirements and test methods Équipement d 5alpinisme et d 5escalade æ Broches à glace æ Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d 5essai
Bergsteigerausrüstung æ Verankerungsmittel im Eis æ Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on
t x September
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egulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alterationä Upætoædate lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CENæCENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN memberä
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CENæCENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versionsä
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austriaá Belgiumá Bulgariaá Croatiaá Cyprusá Czech Republicá Denmarká Estoniaá Finlandá Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedoniaá Franceá Germanyá Greeceá Hungaryá Icelandá Irelandá Italyá Latviaá Lithuaniaá Luxembourgá Maltaá Netherlandsá Norwayá Polandá Portugalá Romaniaá Slovakiaá Sloveniaá Spainá Swedená Switzerlandá Turkey andUnited Kingdomä
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre:
Avenue Marnix 17,
B-1000 Brussels
9
t r s w CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Membersä Refä Noä EN
w x zã t r s w ESIST EN 568:2016
EN 568:2015 (E) 2 Contents Page European foreword . 3 Introduction . 4 1 Scope . 5 2 Normative references . 5 3 Terms and definitions . 5 4 Safety requirements . 5 4.1 Design . 5 4.2 Resistance to hammering of ice pitons . 6 4.3 Screwability of the ice screws . 6 4.4 Holding strength . 6 4.4.1 Holding strength in the radial direction . 6 4.4.2 Holding strength in the axial direction . 6 5 Test methods . 7 5.1 Examination of design . 7 5.2 Determination of screwability of the ice screws and resistance to fracture and holding force of ice anchors . 7 5.2.1 Test samples . 7 5.2.2 Apparatus . 7 5.2.3 Preparation of the test block . 8 5.2.4 Procedure. 9 6 Marking . 11 7 Information supplied by the manufacturer . 12 Annex A (informative)
Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13 Annex ZA (informative)
Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC. 14 Bibliography . 15
SIST EN 568:2016
EN 568:2015 (E) 3 European foreword This document (EN 568:2015) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by May 2016, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by May 2016. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN [and/or CENELEC] shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive(s). For relationship with EU Directive, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. This document supersedes EN 568:2007. In comparison with the previous edition, the following major changes were made: a) now included: the option of using cellular concrete in holding strength test instead of ice type 2; b) clarification of figures. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. SIST EN 568:2016
EN 568:2015 (E) 4 Introduction The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard Q "ice anchors" (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme), which has been developed with international participation. This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment (see Annex A). SIST EN 568:2016
EN 568:2015 (E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice anchors, i.e. ice screws and ice pitons for use in mountaineering including climbing. 2 Normative references The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 566, Mountaineering equipment — Slings — Safety requirements and test methods 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 ice anchor general term for ice screws and ice pitons 3.2 ice screw anchor which is screwed into the ice and is screwed out again after use 3.3 ice piton anchor which is hammered into the ice and is removed again after use 3.4 placement length l length of the anchor from its end to the part of the eye/connector hole intended to be in contact with the ice after it has been screwed or hammered in Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1.
Figure 1 — Placement length, l 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Design 4.1.1 Ice screws shall consist of a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical hollow body with thread. At the screw head, there is an eye into which a connector can be clipped. Ice pitons shall consist of a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical hollow body and have an eye into which a connector can be clipped. SIST EN 568:2016
EN 568:2015 (E) 6 4.1.2 The head and the eye shall be free from burr and sharp edges. The internal edges of the eye shall be rounded with a radius larger than 0,2 mm or have a chamfer larger than 0,2 mm × 45°. See a) in Figure 2. Dimensions in millimetres
a) b) Figure 2 — Attachment point eye dimensions 4.1.3 When tested according to 5.1, the eye shall have an internal diameter of at least 15 mm. See b) in Figure 2. 4.2 Resistance to hammering of ice pitons When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.1, ice pitons shall not show any deformation likely to affect safety, e.g. cracks or separation of components. The impact area of the head shall remain sufficiently intact so as to allow further hammering. NOTE Deformation due to hammering, as occurs with chisels, is not considered detrimental. If the ice anchor has a sling for attachment, which is removable without tools, the sling shall conform to EN 566. 4.3 Screwability of the ice screws When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.2 after a maximum of 10 full rotations of the ice screw the penetration of the following rotation shall be equal to the pitch of the thread of the ice screw. 4.4 Holding strength 4.4.1 Holding strength in the radial direction When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.3.1, anchors shall withstand a force of at least 10 kN in the radial direction, without being pulled out of the ice or breaking. Permanent deformation during the test is permitted. 4.4.2 Holding strength in the axial direction When tested in the axial direction in accordance with 5.2.4.3.2, ice anchors shall withstand a force of at least 5 kN without the hanger breaking or becoming detached. All test samples shall meet the requirement. SIST EN 568:2016
EN 568:2015 (E) 7 5 Test methods 5.1 Examination of design Test the requirements specified in 4.1 by tactile and visual examination and measurement. 5.2 Determination of screwability of the ice screws and resistance to fracture and holding force
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