Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and test methods

This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for dynamic ropes (single, half and twin ropes) in kernmantel construction for use in mountaineering including climbing.

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Dynamische Bergseile - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für dynamische Bergseile (Einfach-, Halb- und Zwillingsseile) in Kernmantelkonstruktion fest, die beim Bergsteigen einschließlich Klettern verwendet werden.

Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordes dynamiques - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai

La présente Norme européenne spécifie les exigences de sécurité ainsi que les méthodes d’essai applicables aux cordes dynamiques gainées (cordes à simple, cordes à double et cordes jumelées) utilisées en alpinisme et en escalade.

Gorniška oprema - Dinamično obremenjene gorniške vrvi - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode

Ta evropski standard določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za dinamično obremenjene oplaščene vrvi (enojne, polovične in dvojne vrvi) za uporabo v gorništvu, vključno s plezanjem.

General Information

Status
Withdrawn
Public Enquiry End Date
14-Aug-2011
Publication Date
25-Sep-2012
Withdrawal Date
07-Sep-2016
Technical Committee
Current Stage
9900 - Withdrawal (Adopted Project)
Start Date
07-Sep-2016
Due Date
30-Sep-2016
Completion Date
08-Sep-2016

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SLOVENSKI STANDARD
SIST EN 892:2012
01-oktober-2012
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SIST EN 892:2005
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Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and

test methods

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Dynamische Bergseile - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen

und Prüfverfahren

Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordes dynamiques - Exigences de sécurité et

méthodes d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 892:2012
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
SIST EN 892:2012 en,de

2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

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SIST EN 892:2012
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SIST EN 892:2012
EUROPEAN STANDARD
EN 892
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
August 2012
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 892:2004
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes -
Safety requirements and test methods

Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordes Bergsteigerausrüstung - Dynamische Bergseile -

dynamiques - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

This European Standard was approved by CEN on 13 July 2012.

CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European

Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national

standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member.

This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation

under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same

status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,

Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania,

Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United

Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels

© 2012 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 892:2012: E

worldwide for CEN national Members.
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SIST EN 892:2012
EN 892:2012 (E)
Contents Page

Foreword ..............................................................................................................................................................3

Introduction .........................................................................................................................................................4

1 Scope ......................................................................................................................................................5

2 Normative references ............................................................................................................................5

3 Terms and definitions ...........................................................................................................................5

4 Safety requirements ..............................................................................................................................7

5 Test methods ..........................................................................................................................................8

6 Marking ................................................................................................................................................ 24

7 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer ............................................................................. 24

Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment ............................................................... 26

Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential

Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC Personal Protective Equipment ................................ 27

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SIST EN 892:2012
EN 892:2012 (E)
Foreword

This document (EN 892:2012) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground

and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.

This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical

text or by endorsement, at the latest by February 2013, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn

at the latest by February 2013.

Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent

rights. CEN [and/or CENELEC] shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.

This document supersedes EN 892:2004.

This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the

European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive(s).

For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document.

The main changes compared to EN 892:2004 are:
a) editorial changes;
b) conditioning climate in 5.2 was changed;

c) dimension of the remaining tape for preparation of the sheath slippage test in 5.4.2 was changed;

d) allowed slippage of the rope in the drop test in 5.6.3.

According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organisations of the following

countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech

Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece,

Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal,

Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom.

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SIST EN 892:2012
EN 892:2012 (E)
Introduction

The text is based on UIAA-Standard B (International Mountaineering and Climbing federation), which has

been prepared with international participation.

This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.

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SIST EN 892:2012
EN 892:2012 (E)
1 Scope

This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for dynamic ropes (single, half and

twin ropes) in kernmantel construction for use in mountaineering including climbing.

2 Normative references

The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are

indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references,

the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.

EN ISO 6508-1, Metallic materials — Rockwell hardness test — Part 1: Test method (scales A, B, C, D, E, F,

G, H, K, N, T) (ISO 6508-1)

ISO 6487, Road vehicles — Measurement techniques in impact tests — Instrumentation

3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
dynamic mountaineering rope

rope, which is capable, when used as a component in the safety chain, of arresting the free fall of a person

engaged in mountaineering or climbing with a limited peak force
3.2
single rope

dynamic mountaineering rope, capable of being used singly, as a link in the safety chain, to arrest a leader's

fall
3.3
half rope

dynamic mountaineering rope, which is capable, when used in pairs, as a link in the safety chain to arrest the

leader's fall
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1.
3.4
twin rope

dynamic mountaineering rope, which is capable, when used in pairs and parallel, as a link in the safety chain

to arrest a leader's fall
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 2.
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SIST EN 892:2012
EN 892:2012 (E)
Figure 1 — Examples of use on half ropes
Figure 2 — Use of twin ropes
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SIST EN 892:2012
EN 892:2012 (E)
3.5
kernmantel rope
rope composed of a core and a sheath
3.6
safety chain

connection of linked elements which protects the climber or mountaineer against falls from a height

Note 1 to entry: The safety chain includes ropes connected to the anchors by connectors and to the climbers by

harnesses.
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Construction

Dynamic ropes in accordance with this European Standard shall be made in a kernmantel construction.

Diameter and mass per unit length are relevant characteristics. See test method in 5.3.

If the properties of the rope change along its length, for example: diameter, strength, markings, samples from

each section shall be submitted for testing. The information to be supplied shall all correspond to the lowest

performance section of the rope.
4.2 Sheath slippage

When tested in accordance with 5.4, the sheath slippage in a longitudinal direction relative to the core (in

positive or negative direction) shall not exceed 1 % (20 mm) (see Figure 3).
Key
1 sheath
2 core
positive sheath slippage ≤ 20 mm
negative sheath slippage ≤ 20 mm
Figure 3 — Sheath slippage
4.3 Static elongation
When tested in accordance with 5.5, the static elongation shall not exceed:
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SIST EN 892:2012
EN 892:2012 (E)
 10 % in single ropes (single strand of rope);
 12 % in half ropes (single strand of rope);
 10 % in twin ropes (double strand of rope).
4.4 Dynamic Elongation

When tested in accordance with 5.6, the dynamic elongation shall not exceed 40 % during the first drop for

each test sample.
4.5 Peak force during fall arrest, number of drops
4.5.1 Peak force in the rope

When tested in accordance with 5.6, the peak force in the rope, during the first drop, for each test sample,

shall not exceed:
 12 kN in single ropes (single strand of rope);
 8 kN in half ropes (single strand of rope);
 12 kN in twin ropes (double strand of rope).
4.5.2 Number of drops

When tested in accordance with 5.6, each rope sample shall withstand at least 5, for twin ropes at least 12,

consecutive drop tests without breaking.
5 Test methods
5.1 Test samples
A test sample with a length of:
 40 m for single and half ropes,
 80 m or 2 × 40 m for twin rope;
shall be available for the tests.
Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.3 on an unused test sample.

Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.4 on two unused test samples with a length of (2 250 ± 10) mm.

Carry out the test in accordance with 5.5 on two unused test samples with a length of at least 1 500 mm.

Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.6 on three unused test samples with a minimum length of 5 m for

single and half ropes, and 10 m for twin ropes, cut out of the available test sample.

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SIST EN 892:2012
EN 892:2012 (E)
5.2 Conditioning and test conditions

Dry the test samples for at least 24 h in an atmosphere of (50 ± 5) °C and less than 20 % relative humidity.

Then condition these test samples in an atmosphere of (23 ± 2) °C and (50 ± 2) % relative humidity for at least

72 h. Then start testing these samples at a temperature of (23 ± 5) °C within 10 min.

5.3 Construction, diameter, and mass per unit length
5.3.1 Procedure
Clamp the test sample at one end.
Load the test sample without shock with a mass of:
 (10 ± 0,1) kg for single ropes,
 (6 ± 0,1) kg for half ropes,
 (5 ± 0,1) kg for twin ropes
at a distance of at least 1 200 mm from the clamp.

After applying the load for 60 s mark within the next 10 s a reference length of (1 000 ± 1) mm on the test

sample. The distance of the marking from the clamp or attachment for the test sample shall be at least 50 mm.

Within a further 3 min measure the diameter in two directions around the diameter starting at points 90° apart

at each of three levels approximately 100 mm apart. If the rope cross section is not circular, the maximum and

minimum diameter are to be determined in each section. The length of the contact areas of the measuring

instrument shall be (50 ± 1) mm. The rope cross-sectional area shall not be subject to any compression during

the measurement.

Then cut out the marked portion of the test sample and determine the mass to the nearest 0,1 g.

Check that the construction of the rope is a kernmantel construction.
5.3.2 Expression of results

Express the diameter as the arithmetic mean of the six measurements to the nearest 0,1 mm.

Express the mass per unit length in ktex or g/m to the nearest 1 g.
5.4 Sheath slippage
5.4.1 Principle

The rope is drawn through the apparatus illustrated in Figure 4, where the movement is restricted by radial

forces. The resulting frictional force on the sheath causes slippage of the sheath relative to the core. The

extent of this slippage is measured.
1) The mass can be introduced by a corresponding force.
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SIST EN 892:2012
EN 892:2012 (E)
Dimensions in millimetres
Key
1 moving plates
2 spacers
3 fixed plates
Figure 4 — Apparatus for testing the sheath slippage
5.4.2 Preparation of the test samples

Fuse one end of the sheath and core of each test sample together. Before cutting the other end of each test

sample to size, apply a short length of adhesive tape around the rope, where it is to be cut, at right angles to

the axis of the rope. The adhesive tape shall be at least 12 mm wide before cutting, and the angle of wrap

around the rope, Θ, shall be 150° ≤ Θ ≤ 180°. After affixing the adhesive tape, cut the sample to a length of

(2 250 ± 10) mm with a sharp knife, within the width of the tape, at right angles to the axis of the rope (see

Figure 5) such that the adhesive tape remaining on the test sample has a width of (10 ± 5) mm. The

characteristics of the adhesive tape and the method of application should be such as to reduce the extent to

which the cut end of the sheath unravels during the test, whilst not interfering with the slippage taking place

between the core and the sheath of the rope sample.
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SIST EN 892:2012
EN 892:2012 (E)
Dimensions in millimetres
Key
1 adhesive tape
Figure 5 — Sheath slippage test — Cutting the test sample to length
5.4.3 Apparatus

The apparatus shall consist of a frame made out of four steel plates each 10 mm thick, kept equal distances

apart by three spacers. These spacers shall have rectangular slots in which three inserted steel plates are

able to slide in a radial direction. The spacers shall be arranged in such a way as to allow each of the three

inserted plates to slide at an angle of 120° (see Figure 5).

Each of the seven plates shall have an opening with a diameter of 12 mm; their internal surfaces shall be

semitoroidal and have a radius of 5 mm. The polished surfaces of the semi-torus shall show:

 an arithmetical mean deviation of the profile of R = 0,4 µm and
 a surface roughness of R = 4 µm (see Figure 6).
max
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SIST EN 892:2012
EN 892:2012 (E)
Dimensions in millimetres
Figure 6 — Section through one of the plates

The moving plates shall have a locked position in which the openings in the fixed plates and the openings in

the moving plates all lie in line along a central axis. When not in their locked position each of the moving

plates shall apply a radial force of (50 ± 0,5) N to the test sample in the direction in which the plate moves.

The test apparatus shall be rigidly mounted with its axis horizontal. Means shall be provided to support, on a

smooth surface, the test sample in a horizontal position in line with the axis of the test apparatus, in both

directions of travel.
5.4.4 Procedure

5.4.4.1 At the start of the test the moving plates shall be in their locked position.

5.4.4.2 Introduce the fused end of the test sample into the apparatus and pull to a length of

(200 ± 10) mm through the test apparatus (see Figure 7). Ensure that the remainder of the test sample is not

subjected to any load and lies in a horizontal position in a straight line.
Dimensions in millimetres
Key
1 sliding plates
Figure 7 — Layout of the test sample before and after sheath slippage test
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SIST EN 892:2012
EN 892:2012 (E)

5.4.4.3 Release the moving plates from their locked position and apply a force of (50 ± 0,5) N to the test

sample via each of the three moving plates and pull the test sample through the apparatus at a rate of

+30
(0,5 ± 0,2) m/s for a distance of (1 930 ) mm.

5.4.4.4 Remove the loads from the moving plates and return them to their locked position. Carefully get

hold of the short end of the test sample and slowly and gently pull it back through the test apparatus to its

initial position.

5.4.4.5 Repeat the procedure described in 5.4.4.3 and 5.4.4.4 three times. Then carry out the procedure

described in 5.4.4.3 once more. Whilst the test sample is still in the test apparatus, and with the loads still

applied to the moving plates, measure the relative slippage of the sheath along the core at the open end of the

test sample (see Figure 3).
5.4.5 Expression of results
Calculate the sheath slippage in percentage of the sample length (2 000 mm).
Express the value for each test sample to the nearest 0,1 %.
5.5 Determination of static elongation
5.5.1 Procedure
Carry out the test on a:
 single strand of rope for single ropes;
 single strand of rope for half ropes;
 double strand of rope for twin ropes.
+ 100

Clamp the test samples such that the free length between the clamps is (1 500 ) mm.

− 0
+ 5

Load the test sample without shock within (10 ) s with a mass of (80 ± 0,1) kg and maintain this load for

− 0
(180 ± 15) s.

Remove the load from the test sample and allow it to remain at rest for (10 ± 0,5) min.

+ 5
Load the test sample without shock within (10 ) s with a mass of (5 ± 0,1) kg.
− 0

After applying the load for 60 s, mark within the next 10 s a reference length of (1 000 ± 1) mm.

+ 5

Increase the load to (80 ± 0,1) kg without shock , within (10 ) s and maintain this load for (60 ± 5) s.

Measure the new distance l between the markings on the stressed test sample within the next 5 s.

5.5.2 Expression of results

Express the elongation as a percentage of the unloaded length: that is (l – 1 000)/10. Express the results to

the nearest 0,1 % for each test sample.
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SIST EN 892:2012
EN 892:2012 (E)

5.6 Drop test for determination of peak force, dynamic elongation and number of drops

5.6.1 Test conditions

Carry out the first drop test within 10 min of the respective test sample's removal from the conditioning

atmosphere (see 5.2).
5.6.2 Drop test apparatus
5.6.2.1 General

The drop test apparatus shall be set up in accordance with Figures 8, 10, 11, 12 and 13, and shall consist

essentially of a bollard and clamp, orifice plate, falling mass and guidance rails, means for measuring the peak

force in the rope, and means for measuring the peak extension of the rope. In addition, there shall be a means

for timing the descent of the mass to check that the guidance system is not interfering with the free fall of the

mass. The apparatus shall be sufficiently precise and rigid as to achieve the required accuracy and

reproducibility of the results.
5.6.2.2 Bollard and clamp

The bollard shall consist of a steel bar with a diameter of (30 ± 0,1) mm and a surface roughness as follows:

 arithmetic mean deviation of the profile of R ≤ 0,8 µm;
 surface roughness R ≤ 6,3 µm.
max

The bar shall be fixed rigidly with its axis horizontal and without the possibility of rotation. To maintain rigidity,

the bar shall be as short as reasonably practicable whilst allowing two twin ropes or one single rope each to

be wound around its circumference three times. There shall be two clamps fixed rigidly in relation to the

bollard in accordance with the dimensions in Figures 10 and 11, and capable of fixing the free end(s) of the

rope(s).
5.6.2.3 Orifice plate

The orifice plate shall be manufactured from steel with a surface hardness of at least 52 HRC according to

EN ISO 6508-1. There shall be a cylin
...

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