ASTM F1774-20

Standard Specification for Climbing and Mountaineering Carabiners

ABSTRACT
This specification covers six mechanical tests and the corresponding minimum performance and design requirements for steel or aluminum alloy carabiners fabricated specifically for the sports of climbing and mountaineering. Two different types of carabiners are defined, namely, non-locking carabiners and locking carabiners. The mechanical tests to which the representative carabiners shall be evaluated on are gate function during body weight test, major axis gate closed 70 % force test, locking mechanism test, major axis gate closed ultimate strength test, major axis gate open ultimate strength test, and minor axis gate closed ultimate strength test. These tests are destructive in nature. Hence, carabiners subjected to any of these tests shall not be used in any way after testing, except in evaluating the results of such testing.
SCOPE
1.1 This specification covers six mechanical tests and the minimum performance requirements for carabiners designed specifically for the sports of climbing and mountaineering.  
1.2 Two different types of carabiners are defined in this standard, non-locking carabiners and locking carabiners.  
1.3 Tests contained herein are destructive in nature. Carabiners subjected to any of these tests shall not be used in any way after testing except in evaluating the results of such testing.  
1.4 This specification does not imply approval of any method of use of climbing and mountaineering carabiners. In addition, the test load values contained herein are not to be interpreted as the forces which a climbing and mountaineering carabiner may be subjected to, or expected to sustain in actual field use.  
1.5 This specification is limited to carabiners made of steel or aluminum alloys only.  
1.6 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard.  
1.7 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 14-Mar-2020
• ICS: 97.220.40 - Outdoor and water sports equipment
• Technical Committee: F32 - Search and Rescue
• Drafting Committee: F32.01 - Equipment, Testing, and Maintenance

Standards Content (Sample)

This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation:F1774 −20
Standard Specification for
1
Climbing and Mountaineering Carabiners
This standard is issued under the fixed designation F1774; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision.Anumber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 2.2 Other Standard:
EN566:1994Mountaineering equipment. Slings. Safety re-
1.1 This specification covers six mechanical tests and the
quirements and test methods
minimum performance requirements for carabiners designed
specifically for the sports of climbing and mountaineering.
3. Terminology
1.2 Two different types of carabiners are defined in this
3.1 Definitions:
standard, non-locking carabiners and locking carabiners.
3.1.1 carabiner, n—a self-closing gated, load-bearing, con-
1.3 Tests contained herein are destructive in nature. Cara-
nective device. Some carabiner models may have cocking or
biners subjected to any of these tests shall not be used in any
blockingdevices,thatwhenactivated,overridetheself-closing
way after testing except in evaluating the results of such
features.
testing.
3.1.2 durably affıxed, adj—themannerofattachinginforma-
1.4 This specification does not imply approval of any
tion directly to the product which endures for the life of the
method of use of climbing and mountaineering carabiners. In
product.
addition, the test load values contained herein are not to be
3.1.3 failure, n—an arbitrary point beyond which a material
interpreted as the forces which a climbing and mountaineering
orproductceasestobefunctionallycapableofitsintendeduse.
carabiner may be subjected to, or expected to sustain in actual
In this application, the point at which some part of the
field use.
carabiner physically breaks or distorts to an extent that the test
1.5 This specification is limited to carabiners made of steel
members are released.
or aluminum alloys only.
3.1.4 locking carabiner, n—a carabiner with a mechanism
1.6 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as that reduces the possibility of a gate being opened inadver-
standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are
tently. A locking mechanism requires at least two different
provided for informationonlyandarenotconsideredstandard.
consecutive manual actions to open the gate.
1.7 This international standard was developed in accor-
3.1.5 nonlocking carabiner, n—any carabiner that does not
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
have a mechanism that reduces the possibility of a gate being
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
opened inadvertently.
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
3.1.6 normal body weight, n—a standardized weight that
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
representsa typicalclimber,definedasFunctionTestForceNo.
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
1.
3.1.7 ultimate strength, n—themaximumforcesustainedby
2. Referenced Documents
a carabiner during an ultimate force test, prior to its failure.
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
B117Practice for Operating Salt Spray (Fog) Apparatus
4. Requirements
E4Practices for Force Verification of Testing Machines
4.1 Product information shall include the following items:
4.1.1 Manufacturer’s or Distributor’s Name or Logo—A
1
This specification is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee F32 on Search
clear indication as to who is responsible for the primary
and Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment,
manufacture or distribution, or both, of the product.
Testing, and Maintenance.
4.1.2 Major Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength—A clear
Current edition approved March 15, 2020. Published April 2020. Originally
indication as to the major axis gate closed strength by either
approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 2013 as F1774–13. DOI:
10.1520/F1774-20.
symbol or pictorial representation.
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
4.1.3 Minor Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength—A clear
contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM
indication as to the minor axis gate closed ultimate strength by
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
the ASTM website. either symbol or pictorial representation.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
1

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F1774−20
4.1.4 Major Axis Gate Open Ultimate Strength
...

This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation: F1774 − 13 F1774 − 20
Standard Specification for
1
Climbing and Mountaineering Carabiners
This standard is issued under the fixed designation F1774; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This specification covers six mechanical tests and the minimum performance requirements for carabiners designed
specifically for the sports of climbing and mountaineering.
1.2 Two different types of carabiners are defined in this standard, non-locking carabiners and locking carabiners.
1.3 Tests contained herein are destructive in nature. Carabiners subjected to any of these tests shall not be used in any way after
testing except in evaluating the results of such testing.
1.4 This specification does not imply approval of any method of use of climbing and mountaineering carabiners. In addition,
the test load values contained herein are not to be interpreted as the forces which a climbing and mountaineering carabiner may
be subjected to, or expected to sustain in actual field use.
1.5 This specification is limited to carabiners made of steel or aluminum alloys only.
1.6 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the standard. standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are
provided for information only and are not considered standard.
1.7 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization
established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued
by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2. Referenced Documents
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
B117 Practice for Operating Salt Spray (Fog) Apparatus
E4 Practices for Force Verification of Testing Machines
F1772 Specification for Harnesses for Rescue and Sport Activities
2.2 Other Standard:
EN 566:1994 Slings [preliminary] Mountaineering equipment. Slings. Safety requirements and test methods
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions—Terms defined in Terminology F1772 shall be applicable to this specification.
3.1 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:Definitions:
3.1.1 carabiner, n—a self-closing gated, load-bearing, connective device. Some carabiner models may have cocking or blocking
devices, that when activated, override the self-closing features.
3.1.2 durably affıxed, adj—the manner of attaching information directly to the product which endures for the life of the product.
3.1.3 failure, n—an arbitrary point beyond which a material or product ceases to be functionally capable of its intended use. In
this application, the point at which some part of the carabiner physically breaks or distorts to an extent that the test members are
released.
3.1.4 locking carabiner, n—a carabiner with a mechanism that reduces the possibility of a gate being opened inadvertently. A
locking mechanism requires at least two different consecutive manual actions to open the gate.
1
This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee F32 on Search and Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment, Testing,
and Maintenance.
Current edition approved Dec. 15, 2013March 15, 2020. Published February 2014April 2020. Originally approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 20052013
as F1774 – 99 (2005).F1774 – 13. DOI: 10.1520/F1774-13.10.1520/F1774-20.
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
1

---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
F1774 − 20
3.1.5 nonlocking carabiner, n—any carabiner that does not have a mechanism that reduces the possibility of a gate being opened
inadvertently.
3.1.6 normal body weight, n—a standardized weight that represents a typical climber, defined as Function Test Force No. 1.
3.1.7 ultimate strength, n—the maximum force sustained by a carabiner during an ultimate force test, prior to its failure.
4. Requirements
4.1 Product information shall include the following items:
4.1.1 Manufacturer’s or Distributor’s Name or Logo—A cl
...