ASTM D6193-16(2020)
(Practice)Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams
Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
4.1 Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitch type, seam configuration, and thread type which should be used for a particular assembly, requires a thorough knowledge of many variables. The improper selection of any one component can result in failure of the sewn junction, and ultimately failure of the product manufactured.
4.2 General Characteristics—The characteristics of a properly constructed sewn seam are strength, elasticity, durability, security, and appearance. These characteristics must be balanced with the properties of the material to be joined to form the optimum sewn seam. The end use of the item will govern the relative importance of these characteristics. The selection of the seam type and stitch type should be based upon these considerations.
4.2.1 Strength—The seam efficiency of the sewn seam should be as high as possible. This will produce sewn seam strength with a balanced construction that will withstand the forces encountered in the use of the sewn item. The elements affecting the strength of a sewn seam are:
4.2.1.1 Fabric type and strength,
4.2.1.2 Seam type,
4.2.1.3 Stitch type,
4.2.1.4 Stitch density (spi),
4.2.1.5 Thread tension, and
4.2.1.6 Thread strength.
4.2.2 Elasticity—The elasticity of a sewn seam should be slightly greater than that of the material which it joins. This will enable the material to support its share of the forces encountered for the intended end use of the sewn item. The elasticity of a sewn seam depends upon:
4.2.2.1 Fabric type and strength,
4.2.2.2 Seam type,
4.2.2.3 Stitch type,
4.2.2.4 Stitch density (spi),
4.2.2.5 Thread tension, and
4.2.2.6 Thread elasticity.
4.2.3 Durability—The durability of a sewn seam depends largely upon its strength relative to the elasticity of the seam and the elasticity of the material. However, in less elastic, tightly woven or dense materials, there is a tendency for the plies to “work” or slide on each other. To form a durable sewn sea...
SCOPE
1.1 This practice covers the requirements and characteristics of stitches and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items.
1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the fabrication of sewn items.
1.3 Subsequent to a general discussion of stitches and seams that include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of the following sections that are listed in the order in which they appear:
1.3.1 Section 5—Classification of Stitch Types for which drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69,
FIG. 1 Stitch Type 101
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread that shall be passed through the material and interlooped with itself on the undersurface of the material.
FIG. 2 Stitch Type 102
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads A and A′. Both threads shall be passed through the material and thread A′ shall be interlooped with itself and with thread A.
FIG. 3 Stitch Type 103
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall interloop with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread shall be passed through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth.
FIG. 4 Stitch Type 104
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall interloop with itself on the undersurface of the material.
FIG. 5 Stitch Type 105
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through the top ply of material and through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth, on either side of a center line. The thread shall interloop with itself on the surface of the material at the center line.
FIG. 6 Stitch Type 201
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A′, which shall be passed through th...
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D6193 − 16 (Reapproved 2020)
Standard Practice for
Stitches and Seams
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D6193; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
1. Scope 3.1.1 bartack, n—a reinforcement stitch that effectively
minimizes tearing at the ends of critical stress stitchlines.
1.1 Thispracticecoverstherequirementsandcharacteristics
3.1.1.1 Discussion—Examples of critical stress stitchlines
of stitches and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items.
include: ends of seams, zippers, pocket flaps, crotch/seat
1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and
seams, collars, webbing and other components. If the bartack-
general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the
ing process exhibits an insufficient number of stitches, im-
fabrication of sewn items.
proper thread size relationship or shortened bartack stitched
1.3 Subsequenttoageneraldiscussionofstitchesandseams length then it will fail under stress. Bartacking, because of the
that include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of the stitch density, can exhibit severe needle-cutting, thus creating a
following sections that are listed in the order in which they self-destructive characteristic if number of stitches is
appear: excessive, or sewing needle or thread size is too large for
1.3.1 Section 5—Classification of Stitch Types for which fabric. Bartacking is specified strictly as a relationship between
drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69, length,widthorthrowandtotalstitches.Itdoesnotincorporate
1.3.2 Section 6—Classification of Seam Types for which stitches per inch as a typical seam may specify.
drawings are shown in Seam Figs. 70-288, and
3.1.1.2 Discussion—Counting finished bartack stitches is
1.3.3 Annex A1—Seam Assembly Recommendations. virtually impossible since the overall process consists of three
components. The process begins in a horizontal position to
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
achieve the required length and then forms the familiar zig-zag
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
stitch-line along the horizontal plane including backstitching at
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
both ends to lock in the zig-zag stitches to prevent raveling.
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
The zig-zag stitches criss-cross the initial horizontal stitch line
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
thus virtually hiding the initial stitch line.
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor-
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
3.1.2 needle damage, n—in sewn fabrics, the partial or
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
passing through a fabric during sewing.
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
3.1.2.1 Discussion—This can also be referred to as needle
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
cuts.
3.1.3 seam, n—a line where two or more fabrics are joined,
2. Referenced Documents
usually near the edge. See also sewn seam, glued seam, stapled
2.1 ASTM Standards:
seam, thermally bonded seam.)
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
3.1.4 seam allowance, n—in sewn fabrics, the distance from
3. Terminology the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that
edge.
3.1 Definitions:
3.1.5 seam assembly, n—the composite structure obtained
when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.
ThispracticeisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextilesand
is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
3.1.6 seam damage, n— in sewn fabrics, an adverse change
Current edition approved July 1, 2020. Published August 2020. Originally
in the physical condition of one or more of the components in
approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 2016 as D6193 – 16. DOI:
aseamwhichwouldreducetheseamacceptabilitysuchasyarn
10.1520/D6193-16R20.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
slippage, needle damage, or fabric rupture.
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
3.1.7 seam effıciency, n—in sewn fabrics, the ratio of seam
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
the ASTM website. strength to fabric strength.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D6193 − 16 (2020)
TABLE 1 Stitch and Seam Defects
4.2 General Characteristics—The characteristics of a prop-
Stitch Defects Seam Assembly Defects erly constructed sewn seam are strength, elasticity, durability,
Loose stitches Puckers security, and appearance. These characteristics must be bal-
Poorly formed stitches Twists
anced with the properties of the material to be joined to form
Crowded stitches Plaits
the optimum sewn seam. The end use of the item will govern
Tight stitches Undulations
Crooked stitches Run-off (raised seams) the relative importance of these characteristics. The selection
Skipped stitches Raw edges exposed
of the seam type and stitch type should be based upon these
(felled seams)
considerations.
4.2.1 Strength—The seam efficiency of the sewn seam
should be as high as possible. This will produce sewn seam
strength with a balanced construction that will withstand the
3.1.7.1 Discussion—For some constructions, yarn strength
forces encountered in the use of the sewn item. The elements
andstitchtypecancontributetoahigherseamefficiencyvalue.
affecting the strength of a sewn seam are:
3.1.8 seam slippage, n—in sewn fabrics, the displacement
4.2.1.1 Fabric type and strength,
of the fabric yarn parallel and adjacent to the stitch line.
4.2.1.2 Seam type,
3.1.9 seam type, n—in sewn fabrics, an alphanumeric des- 4.2.1.3 Stitch type,
ignation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric
4.2.1.4 Stitch density (spi),
positioning and rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric 4.2.1.5 Thread tension, and
seam.
4.2.1.6 Thread strength.
4.2.2 Elasticity—The elasticity of a sewn seam should be
3.1.10 sew, v—to unite or fasten with stitches.
slightly greater than that of the material which it joins. This
3.1.11 sewing thread, n—a flexible, small-diameter yarn or
will enable the material to support its share of the forces
strand, usually treated with a surface coating, lubricant, or
encountered for the intended end use of the sewn item. The
both, intended to be used to stitch one or more pieces of
elasticity of a sewn seam depends upon:
material or an object to a material.
4.2.2.1 Fabric type and strength,
3.1.12 sewn seam, n—in sewn fabrics, a juncture at which
4.2.2.2 Seam type,
two or more planar structures such as textile fabrics, are joined
4.2.2.3 Stitch type,
by sewing, usually near the edge.
4.2.2.4 Stitch density (spi),
3.1.13 stitch, n—in sewing, the configuration of the inter-
4.2.2.5 Thread tension, and
lacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit. (See also 4.2.2.6 Thread elasticity.
stitching, and stitch type.)
4.2.3 Durability—The durability of a sewn seam depends
largely upon its strength relative to the elasticity of the seam
3.1.14 stitch density, n—in sewn seams, the number of
and the elasticity of the material. However, in less elastic,
stitches per unit length in one row of stitching in the seam.
tightly woven or dense materials, there is a tendency for the
3.1.14.1 Discussion—This is usually expressed as stitches
plies to “work” or slide on each other. To form a durable sewn
per inch (spi).
seam in these types of fabrics, the thread size must be carefully
3.1.15 stitch gage, n— in sewn seams, the perpendicular
chosen. The stitch density also needs to be carefully deter-
distance between adjacent parallel rows of stitching.
mined for the material so as not to cause excess tension which
3.1.16 stitch type, n— in sewn seams, a numerical designa-
will unbalance the elasticity and cause puckering. It is also
tion relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing of
important to minimize abrasion and wear by contact with
sewing thread(s) in a specified stitch.
outside agencies to promote durability.
3.1.17 stitching, n—a series of stitches embodied in a 4.2.4 Security—The security of a sewn seam depends
chiefly upon the stitch type, spi, and its susceptibility to
material or materials of planar structure such as woven textile
fabrics usually for ornamental purposes or finishing an edge, or become unraveled. The stitch must be well set to the material
to prevent snagging that can cause rupture of the thread and
both.
unraveling of certain stitch types.
3.1.18 yarn slippage, n—in sewn seams in sewn fabrics, the
4.2.5 Appearance—The appearance of a sewn seam gener-
displacement of one or more yarns from the original position,
allyisgovernedbytheproperrelationshipbetweenthesizeand
causing differences in alignment, spacing, or both.
type of thread, the stitch density, and the texture and weight of
3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
the fabric.
practice, refer to Terminology D123.
4.2.5.1 In addition to these general characteristics, the
technique and skill of the sewing machine operators also
4. Significance and Use
govern the appearance of the sewn seams. Some of the factors
4.1 Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitch
which will adversely affect the appearance are shown in Table
type,seamconfiguration,andthreadtypewhichshouldbeused
1.
for a particular assembly, requires a thorough knowledge of
5. Classification of Stitch Types
many variables. The improper selection of any one component
can result in failure of the sewn junction, and ultimately failure 5.1 Function—Because all stitch types require that a needle
of the product manufactured. penetrate a fabric while transporting a sewing thread, it is
D6193 − 16 (2020)
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread that shall be passed through the material and interlooped with itself on the
undersurface of the material.
FIG. 1 Stitch Type 101
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads A and A'. Both threads shall be passed through the material and thread A' shall
be interlooped with itself and with thread A.
FIG. 2 Stitch Type 102
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall interloop with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread
shall be passed through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth.
FIG. 3 Stitch Type 103
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall interloop with itself on the undersurface of the material.
FIG. 4 Stitch Type 104
important to understand how the unique characteristics of 5.2 Stitch Requirements:
every stitch type are dependent upon the mechanical actions of 5.2.1 Stitches are divided into six classes which are identi-
the sewing machine. See Stitch Type Figs. 1-66. fied by the first digit of three digit numerals. Each class is
D6193 − 16 (2020)
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through the top ply of material and through portions of the
bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth, on either side of a center line. The thread shall interloop with itself on the surface of the material at the
center line.
FIG. 5 Stitch Type 105
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A', which shall be passed through the material in the same perforations
from opposite directions without interlacing or interlooping.
FIG. 6 Stitch Type 201
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material brought forward two stitch lengths,
passed back through the material and brought back one stitch length before being passed through the material a third time.
FIG. 7 Stitch Type 202
divided into several types which are identified by the second interlooping of the threads with themselves. When more than
and third digit. All stitch types shall conform to the drawings one thread is used, the threads pass through the same perfora-
unless otherwise specified. tions in the material.
5.2.1.1 Stitch Class 100—This class of stitch (Types 101 5.2.1.3 Stitch Class 300—This class of stitch (Types 301
through 105) is formed with one or more needle threads and through 316) is formed with two or more groups of threads and
requires interlooping. A loop (or loops) of thread(s) shall be requires the interlacing of the two groups. Loops of the first
passed through the material and be secured by interlooping group are passed through the material where they are secured
with succeeding loop or loops, after they are passed through by the thread(s) of the second group to form a stitch.
the material, to form a stitch. 5.2.1.4 Stitch Class 400—This class of stitch (Types 401
5.2.1.2 Stitch Class 200—This class of stitch (Types 201 through 407) shall be formed with two or more groups of
through 205) is formed by hand with one or more needle threads and requires the interlacing and interlooping of the
threads and requires that each thread passes through the loops of the two groups. Loops of the first group of threads are
material as a single line of thread. Each stitch is secured by the passed through the material and are secured by interlacing and
single line of thread passing in and out of the material or the interlooping with loops of the second group to form a stitch.
D6193 − 16 (2020)
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material from the underside and immediately
passed back through the same perforation to form a loop on the surface of the material. The needle shall be advanced one stitch length, passed through
the material and the loop and immediately passed back through the loop and the same needle perforation, and a new loop shall be formed to receive the
succeeding stitch.
FIG. 8 Stitch Type
...
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