Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric

SCOPE
1.1 This terminology covers definitions of technical terms used in the industry related to textile fabrics. Terms that are generally understood or adequately defined in other readily available sources are not included. Other terminology standards that have terms related to textile fabrics are shown in

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ASTM D4850-03a(2007) - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric
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NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation:D4850–03a (Reapproved 2007)
Standard Terminology Relating to
Fabric
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4850; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D 3775 Test Method for Warp End Count and Filling Pick
Count of Woven Fabric
1.1 This terminology covers definitions of technical terms
D 3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile
used in the industry related to textile fabrics. Terms that are
Fabrics—Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method
generally understood or adequately defined in other readily
D 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—
available sources are not included. Other terminology stan-
Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
dards that have terms related to textile fabrics are shown in 2.1
D 3789 Practice for Labeling Cans of Consumer Spray
2. Referenced Documents
Paint
D 3882 Test Method for Bow and Skew in Woven and
2.1 ASTM Standards:
Knitted Fabrics
D 737 Test Method for Air Permeability of Textile Fabrics
D 3883 Test Methods for Yarn Crimp and Yarn Take-up in
D 1117 Guide for Evaluating Nonwoven Fabrics
Woven Fabrics
D 1336 Test Method for Distortion of Yarn in Woven
D 3884 Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics
Fabrics
(Rotary Platform, Double-Head Method)
D 1388 Test Method for Stiffness of Fabrics
D 3885 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
D 1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by
Fabrics (Flexing and Abrasion Method)
Falling-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) Apparatus
D 3886 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
D 1775 Test Method for Tension and Elongation of Wide
Fabrics (Inflated Diaphragm Apparatus)
Elastic Fabrics
D 3887 Specification for Tolerances for Knitted Fabrics
D 1777 Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials
D 3939 Test Method for Snagging Resistance of Fabrics
D 2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the
(Mace)
Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-
D 3990 Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
Extension Tensile Testing Machine)
D 4032 Test Method for Stiffness of Fabric by the Circular
D 2594 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fab-
Bend Procedure
rics Having Low Power
D 4033 Test Method for Resistance to Yarn Slippage at the
D 2646 Test Methods for Backing Fabric Characteristics of
Sewn Seam in Upholstery Fabrics (Dynamic Fatigue
Pile Yarn Floor Coverings
Method) (Discontinued 2001)
D 3107 Test Methods for Stretch Properties of Fabrics
D 4034 Test Method for Resistance to Yarn Slippage at the
Woven from Stretch Yarns
Sewn Seam in Woven Upholstery Fabrics (Discontinued
D 3511 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-
2001)
lated Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Brush Pilling
D 4157 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
Tester
Fabrics (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)
D 3512 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-
D 4158 Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics
lated Surface Changes ofTextile Fabrics: RandomTumble
(Uniform Abrasion)
Pilling Tester
D 4390 Practice for the Evaluation of the Performance of
D 3514 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-
Terry Bathroom Products for Home Use
lated Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Elastomeric Pad
D 4772 Test Method for Surface WaterAbsorption of Terry
D 3773 Test Methods for Length of Woven Fabric
Fabrics (Water Flow)
D 3774 Test Method for Width of Textile Fabric
D 4350 Test Method for Corrosivity Index of Plastics and
Fillers
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
D 4685 Test Method for Pile Fabric Abrasion
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,
D 4848 Terminology of Force, Deformation and Related
General.
Properties of Textiles
Current edition approved July 1, 2007. Published August 2007. Originally
approved in 1989. Last previous edition approved in 2003 as D 4850 – 03a.
Withdrawn.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D4850–03a (2007)
D 4850 Terminology Relating to Fabric secured and primarily supported and held in place by air
D 4851 Test Methods for Coated and Laminated Fabrics for pressure. D 4851
Architectural Use
architectural-use, n—in the building trade, a descriptive term
D 4964 Test Method for Tension and Elongation of Elastic
for fabrics used in fabric roof-systems or similar industrial
Fabrics (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Type Tensile Testing
applications. (See also fabric roof-system.) D 4851
Machine)
bagging, n—any material, such as fabric or other suitable
D 4966 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
materialusedtoprotectcommoditiesduringshipmentand/or
Fabrics (Martindale Abrasion Tester Method)
storage.
D 4970 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-
DISCUSSION—Fabrics may be of the woven, knitted, or non-woven
lated Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Martindale
type, and are typically produced with cotton, jute, polyethylene, or
Tester
polypropylene fibers. D 4850
D 5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation
of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
bending length, n—(1) general—a measure of the interaction
D 5035 Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation of
between fabric weight and fabric stiffness as shown by the
Textile Fabrics (Strip Method)
way in which a fabric bends under its own weight. It reflects
D 5103 Test Method for Length and Length Distribution of
the stiffness of a fabric when bent in one plane under the
Manufactured Staple Fibers (Single-Fiber Test)
force of gravity, and is one component of drape; (2)
D 5278 Test Method for Elongation of Narrow Elastic
specific—the cube root of the ratio of the flexural rigidity to
Fabrics (Static-Load Testing)
the weight per unit area. D 1388
D 5362 Test Method for Snagging Resistance of Fabrics
book fold, n—a fabric doubled selvage to selvage, then folded
(Bean Bag)
back and forth upon itself in predetermined lengths. (See
D 5378 Performance Specification for Woven and Knitted
also shoe fold.)
Shower Curtains for Institutional and Household Use
D 5426 Practices for Visual Inspection and Grading of
DISCUSSION—When the piece is completed, the fold-edges on each
side are folded once more upon themselves so that the fold-edges are
Fabrics Used for Inflatable Restraints
inside, forming a compact package as long as one half the width of the
D 5430 Test Methods for Visually Inspecting and Grading
fabric. D 4850
Fabrics
D 5446 Practice for Determining Physical Properties of
bow, n—a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or
Fabrics, Yarns, and Sewing Thread Used in Inflatable
knittedcoursesaredisplacedfromalineperpendiculartothe
Restraints
selvages and form one or more arcs across the width of the
D 5587 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by
fabric. (See also double bow.) D 3882, D 3990
Trapezoid Procedure
braided fabric, n—astructureproducedbyinterlacingthreeor
D 5684 Terminology Relating to Pile Floor Coverings
more ends of yarns in a manner such that the paths of the
D 5793 Test Method for Binding Sites per Unit Length or
yarns are diagonal to the vertical axis of the fabric.
Width of Pile Yarn Floor Coverings
D 4850
D 6207 Test Method for Dimensional Stability of Fabrics to
broken end, n—in woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction
Changes in Humidity and Temperature
due to yarn breakage. D 3990
3. Terminology
burlap, n—a coarse, heavy, plain weave fabric of yarns, such
as bast or cotton fiber yarn. D 4850
3.1 Definitions:
bursting strength, n—theforceorpressurerequiredtorupture
abrasion, n—the wearing away of any part of a material by
a fabric by distending it with a force, applied at right angles
rubbing against another surface. D 3884, D 3885, D 3886,
to the plane of the fabric, under specified conditions.
D 4157, D 4158, D 4685, D 4966
D 3786, D 3787, D 3887
abrasion cycle, n—one complete movement across the surface
circular bend, n—simultaneous, multidirectional deformation
of a material.
of a fabric in which one face of a flat specimen becomes
DISCUSSION—The complete movement for an abrasion cycle is
concave and the other becomes convex. D 4032
dependent on the action of the abrasion machine and the test method
coated fabric, n—a flexible material composed of a fabric and
used. It may consist of one back-and-forth unidirectional movement or
any adherent polymeric material applied to one or both
one circular movement, or a combination of both. D 3885
surfaces. (See also laminated fabric.) D 4850, D 4851,
air permeability, n—the rate of air flow passing perpendicular
D 5446
through a known area under a prescribed air pressure
color contrast, n—in textiles, a general term for a visible color
differential between the two surfaces of a material.
difference between two adjacent areas.
DISCUSSION—Air permeability of fabric at a stated pressure differen-
DISCUSSION—For the purpose of Test Methods D 3939 and D 5362, a
tialbetweentwosurfacesofthefabricisgenerallyexpressedinSIunits
color contrast is a visible color difference between a snag and the
3 2 3 2
as cm /s/cm and in inch-pound units as ft /min/ft calculated in
immediate surrounding area of the fabric that has no defects. Color
operating conditions. (See permeability, porosity.) D 737
contrasts often occur when printed fabrics are snagged. D 3939,
air-supported roof, n—a fabric roof-system that is properly D 5362
D4850–03a (2007)
result is a pucker on the surface of the fabric, and (2) tension on a
corduroy, n—a filling cut-pile fabric in which the cut fibers
snagged yarn has caused a yarn to break off within a woven fabric and
form a surface of wales (rounded cords or ribs) which
the result is a change in the texture where the yarn used to be.
usually run warpwise. D 4685, D 4850
D 3939, D 5362
count, n—in woven fabric, the number of warp yarns (ends)
and filling yarns (picks) per unit distance as counted while
double bow, n—two fabric bows, arcing in the same direction,
the fabric is held under zero tension, and is free of folds and
as in a flattened M or W depending on the viewing angle.
wrinkles. D 3775
(Compare double reverse bow and double bow.)
count, n—in knitted fabrics, the number (counted units) of
DISCUSSION—In tubular knits, there may be defferentail bowing
wale loops and course loops per 25 mm (1 in.). D 3787
between the top and the bottom of the tube. D 3882, D 3990
course, n—in knitted fabrics, a row of successive loops in the
width direction of the fabric. D 2594
double hooked bow, n—one hooked bow at each side of the
crease retention, n—that property of a fabric which enables it
fabricthatarcinoppositedirections.(Seealso hooked bow.)
to maintain an inserted crease. D 4850
D 3882, D 3990
critical defect, n—a serious defect that judgment and experi-
double reverse bow, n—two fabric bows arcing in opposite
ence indicate is likely to prevent the usability or proper
directions. (See also bow. Compare double bow.) D 3882
performance of a product from its intended purpose.
double-stroke, n—in flex and abrasion testing, an abrasion
D 5430
cycle that consists of one forward and one backward motion.
cut, n—as applied to woven fabric, a length approximately 60
D 3885
yard in the greige. D 4850
duck, n—a compact, firm, heavy, plain-weave cotton fabric,
cut strip test, n—in fabric testing, a strip test in which the
mass per square yard 6 to 50 oz. (See also flat duck, and
specimen is cut to the specified testing width. D 5035
plied yarn duck.) D 4850
defect, n—in inspection and grading, the departure or non-
durable-press, adj—having the ability to retain substantially
conformance of some characteristic from its intended level
the initial shape, flat seams, pressed-in creases, and un-
or state.
wrinkled appearance during use and after laundering or
drycleaning. (See wash and wear.)
DISCUSSION—In inspection and grading the characteristic is usually a
visual one. However, defects such as heat damage or poorly finished
DISCUSSION—The use of the term permanent-press, adj,asa
textiles grading by hand may be required. D 5430
substitute for durable-press is not recommended. D 4850
dimensional change, n—a generic term for changes in length
elastic fabric, n—afabricmadefromanelastomereitheralone
or width of a specimen subjected to specified conditions.
or in combination with other textiles.
DISCUSSION—Dimensional change is usually expressed as a percent
DISCUSSION—At room temperature an elastic fabric will stretch under
of the original dimension of the specimen.When a dimension increases
tension and will return quickly and forcibly to substantially its original
it is often referred to as growth.When a dimension decreases it is often
dimensions and shape when tension is removed.
referred to as shrinkage. D 1117, D 2646
Elastic fabrics may be manufactured by weaving, braiding, knitting,
or other processes. D 1775, D 4850, D 4964
dimensional stability, n—the ability of a material to retain its
length and width dimensions under specified conditions.
elastic tape, n—atapecontainingrubberorotherelastomersto
DISCUSSION—The dimensions are length and width and the specified permit rubber-like stretch in at least one direction. D 4850
conditions are those of cycled humidity and temperature. D 6207
elastic webbing, n—a webbing containing rubber or other
elastomers to permit rubber-like stretch in at least one
denim, n—adurablewoventwillfabric,usuallyofallcottonor
direction. D 4850
a blend of cotton and manufactured fibers, made from a
end, n—in woven fabric, an individual warp yarn (single or
variety of yarn numbers, and in various fabric weights,
ply) or cord. D 3775
colors, designs, and finishes. D 4850
end count, n—in woven fabric, the number of individual warp
direction of slippage, n—at the seam, the line of movement
yarns per inch of fabric regardless of whether they are
parallel to either the filling or the warp on a woven fabric in
comprised of single or plied components D 3775
which minimum force is required to produce yarn slippage.
fabric, n—in textiles, a planar structure consisting of yarns or
DISCUSSION—The fabric may be pulled in both directions in many
fibers. D 737, D 1388, D 1424, D 4850, D 5587
cases. D 4034
fabric growth, n—the increase in the original length of a
specimen after the application of a specified force for a
distortion, n—in fabrics, a general term for a visible defect in
prescribed time and the subsequent removal of the tension.
the texture of a fabric.
DISCUSSION—Fabric growth usually is expressed as a percentage
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