ASTM D4231-01(2008)

Standard Practice for Evaluation of Launderable Woven Dress Shirts and Sports Shirts

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
This practice may be used to evaluate pertinent performance characteristics of men's and boys' launderable woven dress shirts and sport shirts.
The characteristics to be evaluated and the acceptance criteria assigned to these areas shall be set by mutual agreement between purchaser and supplier.
The uses and significance of specific properties are discussed in the appropriate test methods and performance specifications.
SCOPE
1.1 This practice covers the evaluation of specific characteristics of importance in launderable woven dress shirts and sport shirts.
1.2 Any launderable woven dress shirt or sport shirt may be evaluated using this practice, but it shall not be construed to be a standard of performance.
1.3 This practice may be used by mutual agreement between the purchaser and supplier to establish purchasing specifications.
1.4 This practice is not intended to be used in the evaluation of woven dress shirts or sport shirts when drycleaned or hand-washed.

General Information

• Status: Historical
• Publication Date: 31-Jul-2008
• ICS: 97.060 - Laundry appliances
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.61 - Apparel

Relations

• Replaces: ASTM D4231-01e1 - Standard Practice for Evaluation of Launderable Woven Dress Shirts and Sports Shirts
• Effective Date: 01-Aug-2008
• Referred By: ASTM D3181-15(2019) - Standard Guide for Conducting Wear Tests on Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Aug-2008

Standards Content (Sample)

NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: D4231 − 01(Reapproved 2008)
Standard Practice for
Evaluation of Launderable Woven Dress Shirts and Sports
Shirts
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4231; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 2.2 AATCC Test Methods:
88B Appearance of Seams in Wash and Wear Items After
1.1 This practice covers the evaluation of specific charac-
Home Laundering
teristics of importance in launderable woven dress shirts and
143 Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products
sport shirts. 4
After Repeated Home Launderings
150 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering
1.2 Any launderable woven dress shirt or sport shirt may be
of Garments
evaluated using this practice, but it shall not be construed to be
172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-
a standard of performance.
dering
1.3 Thispracticemaybeusedbymutualagreementbetween
188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
the purchaser and supplier to establish purchasing specifica-
Evaluation Procedure 1
tions.
Evaluation Procedure 2
Evaluation Procedure 8
1.4 This practice is not intended to be used in the evaluation
Standardization of Home Laundry Test Conditions
of woven dress shirts or sport shirts when drycleaned or
2.3 ASTM Adjuncts:
hand-washed.
Shirt Components- 15 Photographs
2. Referenced Documents
3. Terminology
2.1 ASTM Standards:
3.1 Definitions—For definitions of textile terms used in this
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
practice, refer to the individual ASTM Standards and AATCC
D1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven
Test Methods and to Terminology D123.
Apparel Fabrics
3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
3.2.1 dress shirt, n—a shirt designed to be worn with a tie
D3136 Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel,
and jacket and made with a specific collar size or numerical
Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather Products
designation.
D3477 Performance Specification for Men’s and Boys’Wo-
3 3.2.1.1 Discussion—For men’s dress shirts, an additional
ven Dress Shirt Fabrics (Withdrawn 2005)
size designation may be used to identify the sleeve length.
D4154 PerformanceSpecificationforMen’sandBoys’Knit-
3.2.2 sport shirt, n—a shirt designed to be worn either
ted and Woven Beachwear and Sports Shirt Fabrics
informally or with a jacket, and which uses an alphabetical,
numerical, or alphanumerical size designator.
4. Significance and Use
4.1 This practice may be used to evaluate pertinent perfor-
ThispracticeisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextilesand
mance characteristics of men’s and boys’ launderable woven
is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
dress shirts and sport shirts.
Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originally
approved in 1989. Last previous edition approved in 2001 as D4231 – 01. DOI:
10.1520/D4231-01R08.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of Textile
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC
the ASTM website. 27709, http://www.aatcc.org.
3 5
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on Photographic standards for evaluating shirt components are available from
www.astm.org. ASTM International Headquarters. Order Adjunct NO. : ADJD4231.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D4231 − 01 (2008)
4.2 The characteristics to be evaluated and the acceptance 6.3 Shirt Performance Characteristics Prior to Laundering.
criteria assigned to these areas shall be set by mutual agree-
6.3.1 Seam Failure—Evaluate seam failure as directed in
ment between purchaser and supplier.
Test Method D1683.
6.3.2 Seam Pucker—Examineshirt(s)forseampuckerusing
4.3 The uses and significance of specific properties are
AATCC Method 88B and photographs described in Fig. 1, Fig.
discussed in the appropriate test methods and performance
2, and Fig. 3 (See ).
specifications.
6.3.3 Shade Difference—Examine shirts(s) for shade differ-
5. Sampling, Selection, and Number of Specimens
ence from part to part as directed in AATCC Evaluation
Procedure 1.
5.1 Primary Sampling Unit—For the test methods used in
this practice, consider boxes or other shipping containers to be 6.3.4 Shirt Appearance—Evaluate the shirts for appearance
the primary sampling unit. of fabric and all component parts such as, but not limited to,
seams,pockets,collars,andtopcenters(frontplacket)(seeFig.
5.2 Laboratory Sampling Unit—For the test methods used
4). Specimens shall be mounted as directed inAATCC Method
in this practice, take a minimum of two garments from each
143, using appropriate photographic standards as described in
primary sampling unit to serve as both the laboratory sample
Fig. 1, Fig. 2, and Fig. 3 and AATCC 88B. Acceptable
and the test specimens.
performance requirements shall be as agreed between the
purchaser and supplier.
6. Characteristics and Conditions
6.3.5 Other Defects—Examine shirt(s) for any other obvi-
6.1 Characteristics—Thecharacteristicstobeevaluatedand
ous defects.
the acceptance criteria assigned to these areas shall be set by
6.3.6 Dimensional Change—Measure shirt(s) prior to laun-
mutual agreement between purchaser and supplier.
dering as directed in Section 7.
6.2 Fabric Performance Characteristics—Evaluate the se-
6.4 Laundering Conditions:
lected characteristics of the shirt fabric by methods directed in
Performance Specification D3477 or Performance Specifica- 6.4.1 Wash Conditions—Wash and dry shirts according to
tion D4154 as appropriate. the care label, using the applicable procedure in AATCC
FIG. 1 Collar 5
D4231 − 01 (2008)
FIG. 2 Pocket
D4231 − 01 (2008)
FIG. 3 Placket
FIG. 4 Diagram of Shirt Components
Method 150. Temperatures shall conform to those stated in 6.4.1.1 Use any domestically available household laundry
Table 1 of Terminology D3136. detergent as agreed between the purchaser and supplier.
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...

This document is not anASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of anASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
´1
Designation:D4231–01 Designation:D4231–01 (Reapproved 2008)
Standard Practice for
Evaluation of Launderable Woven Dress Shirts and Sports
Shirts
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4231; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
´ NOTE—Adjunct references were corrected editorially in July 2006.
1. Scope
1.1 This practice covers the evaluation of specific characteristics of importance in launderable woven dress shirts and sport
shirts.
1.2 Any launderable woven dress shirt or sport shirt may be evaluated using this practice, but it shall not be construed to be
a standard of performance.
1.3 This practice may be used by mutual agreement between the purchaser and supplier to establish purchasing specifications.
1.4 This practice is not intended to be used in the evaluation of woven dress shirts or sport shirts when drycleaned or
hand-washed.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D 1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics
D 1776Practice for Conditioning Textiles for Testing Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
D 3136Terminology Relating to Labels for Textile and Leather Products Other Than Textile Floor Coverings and Upholstery
Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel, Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather Products
D 3477Performance Specification for Men’s and Boy’s Woven Dress Shirt Fabrics
D3938Guide for Determining or Confirming Care Instructions forApparel and Other Textile Consumer Products Performance
Specification for Men’s and Boys’ Woven Dress Shirt Fabrics
D 4154 Performance Specification for Men’s and Boys’ Knitted and Woven Beachwear and Sports Shirt Fabrics
2.2 AATCC Test Methods:
88B Appearance of Seams in Wash and Wear Items After Home Laundering
143 Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products After Repeated Home Launderings
150 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Garments
172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
Evaluation Procedure 1
Evaluation Procedure 2
Evaluation Procedure 8
Standardization of Home Laundry Test Conditions
2.3 ASTM Adjuncts:
Shirt Components- 15 Photographs
This practice is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved May 10, 2001. Published August 2001. Originally published as D4231–89. Discontinued April 1998 and reinstated as D4231–00.
Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originally approved in 1989. Last previous edition approved in 2001 as D 4231 – 01.
For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
Discontinued 1999, see 1998 Annual Book of ASTM Standards , Vol 07.01.
AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709,
http://www.aatcc.org.
AATCC Technical Manual, available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.
Photographic standards for evaluating shirt components are available from ASTM International Headquarters. Order Adjunct NO. : ADJD4231.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D4231–01 (2008)
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions— For definitions of textile terms used in this practice, refer to the individualASTM Standards andAATCCTest
Methods and to Terminology D 123.
3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
3.2.1 dress shirt, n—a shirt designed to be worn with a tie and jacket and made with a specific collar size or numerical
designation.
3.2.1.1 Discussion—For men’s dress shirts, an additional size designation may be used to identify the sleeve length.
3.2.2 sport shirt, n—a shirt designed to be worn either informally or with a jacket, and which uses an alphabetical, numerical,
or alphanumerical size designator.
4. Significance and Use
4.1 This practice may be used to evaluate pertinent performance characteristics of men’s and boys’ launderable woven dress
shirts and sport shirts.
4.2 The characteristics to be evaluated and the acceptance criteria assigned to these areas shall be set by mutual agreement
between purchaser and supplier.
4.3 Theusesandsignificanceofspecificpropertiesarediscussedintheappropriatetestmethodsandperformancespecifications.
5. Sampling, Selection, and Number of Specimens
5.1 Primary Sampling Unit—For the test methods used in this practice, consider boxes or other shipping containers to be the
primary sampling unit.
5.2 Laboratory Sampling Unit—For the test methods used in this practice, take a minimum of two garments from each primary
sampling unit to serve as both the laboratory sample and the test specimens.
6. Characteristics and Conditions
6.1 Characteristics— The characteristics to be evaluated and the acceptance criteria assigned to these areas shall be set by
mutual agreement between purchaser and supplier.
6.2 Fabric Performance Characteristics —Evaluate the selected characteristics of the shirt fabric by methods directed in
Performance Specification D 3477 or Performance Specification D 4154 as appropriate.
6.3 Shirt Performance Characteristics Prior to Laundering.
6.3.1 Seam Failure— Evaluate seam failure as directed in Test Method D 1683.
6.3.2 Seam Pucker— Examine shirt(s) for seam pucker using AATCC Method 88B and photographs described in Fig. 1, Fig.
2, and Fig. 3 (See ).
6.3.3 Shade Difference— Examine shirts(s) for shade difference from part to part as directed in AATCC Evaluation Procedure
1.
6.3.4 ShirtAppearance—Evaluatetheshirtsforappearanceoffabricandallcomponentpartssuchas,butnotlimitedto,seams,
pockets, collars, and top centers (front placket) (see Fig. 4). Specimens shall be mounted as directed inAATCC Method 143, using
appropriate photographic standards as described in Fig. 1, Fig. 2, and Fig. 3 and AATCC 88B. Acceptable performance
requirements shall be as agreed between the purchaser and supplier.
6.3.5 Other Defects— Examine shirt(s) for any other obvious defects.
6.3.6 Dimensional Change—Measure shirt(s) prior to laundering as directed in Section 7.
6.4 Laundering Conditions:
6.4.1 Wash Conditions— Wash and dry shirts according to the care label, using the
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