ISO 22195-9:2026

• Abstract:

  This document specifies a test method for the determination of the index ingredient of chemicals in coloured textile dyed with gallnut. Gallnut can be applied to both natural fibre and manufactured fibre.

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 25-Aug-2026
• ICS: 59.080.01 - Textiles in general
• Technical Committee: ISO/TC 38 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: ISO/TC 38/WG 31 - Natural material for textiles
• Current Stage: 6060 - International Standard published
• Start Date: 26-Aug-2026
• Due Date: 05-Feb-2027
• Completion Date: 26-Aug-2026

ISO 22195-9:2026 is an ISO test method for identifying the index ingredient in coloured textiles dyed with gallnut. It is written for textiles made from both natural fibre and manufactured fibre, and it uses chromatography to look for gallic acid as the marker linked to gallnut dyeing.

What does ISO 22195-9:2026 specify?

ISO 22195-9:2026 specifies a laboratory test method for determining the index ingredient of chemicals in coloured textiles dyed with gallnut. The method applies to coloured textiles from both natural fibre and manufactured fibre, so it is relevant across a wide range of dyed textile materials.

The document is organized into scope, normative references, terms and definitions, principle, reagents, apparatus, procedure, and test report. Annex A gives an informative example of test results and chromatographic conditions.

Annex	What it covers
Annex A	Example of test result, including HPLC-PDA chromatograms and example chromatographic conditions

What are the key requirements of ISO 22195-9:2026?

ISO 22195-9:2026 identifies gallnut colouring by extracting the dyed textile and checking for gallic acid with high performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC-PDA). In practice, the method gives a controlled way to compare an unknown textile extract with a gallic acid standard.

Principle and interpretation

Clause 4 says the colourant is extracted from the textile and identified by chromatography. The note under Clause 4 is important in practice: detecting gallic acid supports a gallnut-related colouring source, but it does not prove that gallic acid was the only colourant used.

Reagents and water quality

Clause 5 requires analytical-grade reagents unless otherwise specified. It names water in accordance with ISO 3696, methanol in HPLC Grade and AR Grade, and gallic acid with a mass fraction of 99 %. This matters because the result depends on clean reagents and a known reference substance.

Apparatus and test set-up

Clause 6 calls for an analytical balance, an ultrasonic water bath set at (30 ± 2) °C, a 50 ml borosilicate glass container, a 0.45 μm membrane filter, a 20 ml pipette, a 2 ml disposable syringe, and an HPLC system with a PDA detector. These items define the extraction and measurement conditions, so laboratories can reproduce the test more consistently.

Standard preparation and specimen extraction

Clause 7.1 prepares a gallic acid stock solution in methanol at 1 000 mg/l. Clause 7.2 cuts the specimen into about 5 mm by 5 mm pieces, uses about 2 g of sample, extracts it with 20 ml of methanol in the ultrasonic bath for (20 ± 1) min, then cools and filters the solution. In practice, this is the sample-preparation step that takes the colourant out of the textile and makes it suitable for HPLC analysis.

Chromatographic analysis and qualification

Clause 7.3 says to detect and qualify gallic acid using HPLC-PDA, and Annex A gives recommended chromatographic conditions. The sample is checked against the standard by retention time and maximum absorption wavelength or spectrum. Clause 7.4 then uses that comparison to judge whether gallic acid is present in the textile extract.

Reporting

Clause 8 requires the test report to include the document reference, sample identification, chromatographic conditions, the gallic acid result, any deviation from the specified procedure, and the test date. This is the information needed for traceable quality records and for comparing results between laboratories.

What terms does ISO 22195-9:2026 define?

• Gallnut - a nut-like gall on plants of Quercus infectoria; the note links it to gallic acid and related tannins used as natural colourants.
• Coloured textile - fabric coloured by dyeing, printing, or coating.
• Natural colourant - material from plants, wood, rocks, soil, insects, or other natural sources, used without a chemical reaction before colouring the textile.
• Gallic acid - the index ingredient the method looks for in the textile extract to support gallnut-related dye identification.
• HPLC-PDA - high performance liquid chromatograph with photodiode array detector, the analytical system used to separate and detect gallic acid.

Who uses ISO 22195-9:2026?

ISO 22195-9:2026 is used by textile laboratories, quality managers, and technical buyers who need to check whether a coloured fabric was dyed with gallnut. It is also relevant for scientific examination of colouring sources, authenticity checks on naturally dyed textiles, and quality assurance work where the dye origin matters.

Which standards are used with ISO 22195-9:2026?

ISO 3696 is the only normative reference named in ISO 22195-9:2026. It provides the specification and test methods for water used in analytical laboratory work, which supports reagent preparation and extraction consistency.

What does the ISO 22195-9:2026 document contain?

ISO 22195-9:2026 contains a worked laboratory method, not just a general description. It includes the principle of extracting the dye component, the reagent list, the apparatus list, the step-by-step sample preparation and HPLC-PDA analysis, and the reporting items.

Annex A adds an informative example of a gallic acid chromatogram and example HPLC-PDA conditions, including the detection wavelength, column type, mobile phase, injection volume, flow rate, and run time. That annex is useful for setting up the method in a lab and for understanding what a matching result looks like in practice.

International
Standard
ISO 22195-9
First edition
Textiles — Determination of index
2026-08
ingredient from coloured textile —
Part 9:
Gallnut
Textiles — Détermination d'indicateurs d'ingrédients de textiles
colorés —
Partie 9: Galle
Reference number
© ISO 2026
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ii
Contents Page
Foreword .iv
Introduction .v
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
4 Principle . 1
5 Reagents . 2
6 Apparatus . 2
7 Procedure . 2
8 Test report . 3
Annex A (informative) Example of test result . 4

iii
Foreword
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iv
Introduction
Dyeing has been a part of textile production, imparting colour and enhancing fabric aesthetics. Before
the development of synthetic dyes, natural materials, such as plant extracts, minerals and insect-derived
colourants, were widely used. When dyeing fabrics using materials derived from these natural substances, it
becomes necessary to identify which substances the colourant was derived from.
Gallnut, known for its high tannin content, has been traditionally used as a natural dye. To ensure authenticity,
standardized test methods are necessary for identifying gallnut-derived colourants in dyed textiles. This
document outlines a method for determining index ingredients from gallnut-based dyes, providing a reliable
approach for verification and quality assurance in naturally dyed fabrics.

v
International Standard ISO 22195-9:2026(en)
Textiles — Determination of index ingredient from coloured
textile —
Part 9:
Gallnut
1 Sc
...