ISO 15115:2019

Leather - Vocabulary

This document defines terms used in the leather industry.

Cuir — Vocabulaire

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 28-Jul-2019
• ICS: 01.040.59 - Textile and leather technology (Vocabularies)
• ICS: 59.140.01 - Leather technology in general
• Technical Committee: ISO/TC 120 - Leather
• Drafting Committee: ISO/TC 120/WG 1 - Terminology
• Current Stage: 9092 - International Standard to be revised
• Start Date: 06-May-2025
• Completion Date: 13-Dec-2025

Relations

• Consolidated By: ISO 20785-2:2020 - Dosimetry for exposures to cosmic radiation in civilian aircraft - Part 2: Characterization of instrument response
• Effective Date: 06-Jun-2022

Overview

ISO 15115:2019 – Leather Vocabulary is an international standard published by ISO that establishes a comprehensive set of terms and definitions used in the leather industry. This first edition provides a unified vocabulary for describing leather materials, processes, properties, and equipment related to leather production. It is essential for manufacturers, quality controllers, researchers, and technical professionals involved in leather processing and product development.

The standard ensures consistency and clarity across global leather trade, manufacturing, and quality assurance by offering precise terminology for all leather-related aspects. It fosters effective communication within the leather industry and supports conformity to international best practices.

Key Topics

ISO 15115:2019 covers a wide range of leather industry terminology, including but not limited to:

• Leather types and materials

  • Full grain leather, corrected grain leather, chrome-tanned leather, chrome-free leather, organic-tanned leather
  • Special products such as box calf leather, chamois, nappa, and patent leather

• Processes and treatments

  • Tanning and fatliquoring
  • Liming, bating, deliming, pickling, bleaching, and curing
  • Mechanical treatments like buffing, glazing, dry drumming, and plush wheeling

• Performance characteristics

  • Abrasion resistance, burst strength, flexural endurance, grain crack resistance, cold crack resistance
  • Crocking (color transfer), fog resistance, and break of leather

• Equipment and measurement

  • Instruments like barkometer and beams for processing hides
  • Physical property measures such as baume scale for liquid density

• Chemical and physical definitions

  • Basicity of chromium, degree of tannage, hide substance, and masking agents

The document extensively defines over 70 terms with clear explanations and notes to facilitate understanding within technical and commercial contexts.

Applications

ISO 15115:2019 serves multiple practical uses across the leather industry including:

• Standardizing communication for manufacturers, tanneries, and suppliers on leather classifications and treatments
• Supporting quality management systems by providing clear definitions for test methods, material specifications, and product descriptions
• Assisting in regulatory compliance and trade by aligning terminology with international customs and trade bodies
• Facilitating research and development by ensuring consistent vocabulary for innovation in leather processing and finishing techniques
• Enhancing training and education for industry professionals by serving as a reference glossary for technical skills and processes

This standard is valuable for stakeholders throughout the leather supply chain, from raw hide processing to finished product manufacturing.

Related Standards

Users of ISO 15115:2019 should consider it alongside other relevant international standards to cover related aspects of leather quality and testing:

• ISO 3379:2015 - Specifies methods for determining burst strength of leather
• ISO/IEC Directives Part 1 and Part 2 - Outline procedures for creating and maintaining ISO standards, including vocabulary standards
• Other specialized leather standards issued by ISO Technical Committee ISO/TC 120, addressing testing methods, environmental, and chemical safety requirements

Additionally, terminological databases like the ISO Online Browsing Platform and IEC Electropedia complement ISO 15115 by providing broader access to standardized terms used in allied industries.

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ISO 15115:2019 offers an authoritative and practical lexicon designed to harmonize understanding and improve efficiency in global leather industry operations. Incorporating this standard into operational workflows promotes accuracy, enhances product quality, and supports international trade and compliance.

Standards Content (Sample)

INTERNATIONAL ISO
STANDARD 15115
First edition
2019-08
Leather — Vocabulary
Cuir — Vocabulaire
Reference number
©
ISO 2019
© ISO 2019
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication may
be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting
on the internet or an intranet, without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address
below or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
ISO copyright office
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]
Email: [e-mail]
Website: www.iso.org
Published in Switzerland
ii © ISO 2019 – All rights reserved

Contents Page
Foreword .iv
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
Bibliography .12
Index .13
Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards
bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out
through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical
committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International
organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.
ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of
electrotechnical standardization.
The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are
described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the
different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the
editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www .iso .org/directives).
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of
any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or
on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www .iso .org/patents).
Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.
For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and
expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to the
World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) see www .iso
.org/iso/foreword .html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 120, Leather.
Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A
complete listing of these bodies can be found at www .iso .org/members .html.
iv © ISO 2019 – All rights reserved

INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 15115:2019(E)
Leather — Vocabulary
1 Scope
This document defines terms used in the leather industry.
2 Normative references
There are no normative references in this document.
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https: //www .iso .org/obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at http: //www .electropedia .org/
3.1
abrasion resistance
ability of the leather to withstand surface wear from rubbing, chafing and other
frictional forces
3.2
aniline leather
leather whose natural grain (3.46) is clearly visible either without a surface coating or with
a non-pigmented surface coating
Note 1 to entry: The thickness of non-pigmented surface coating is usually less than or equal to 0,01 mm.
3.3
barkometer
type of hydrometer used in tanneries
Note 1 to entry: The correlation between specific gravity and barkometer reading (Bk) is as follows:
Specific gravity °Bk
1,0 0
1,020 20
1,120 120
3.4
basicity of chromium
number of hydroxyl groups borne by a chromium unit as a percentage
fraction of the same present in chromic hydroxide
3.5
basification
mild alkali treatment to ensure completion of tanning (3.97)
EXAMPLE Treating the mineral tanned stock with a view to forming a large aggregate of metallic compounds
and enabling reactive groups of skin (3.88) to complex with tanning material.
3.6
bate
enzymes mixed with an inert carrier used to selectively remove unwanted constituents of
hides (3.48) and skins (3.88)
3.6.1
acid bate
bate (3.6) that has optimum activity in the pH range of 3 to 5
3.6.2
alkaline bate
bate (3.6) that has optimum activity in the pH range of 8 to 8,5
3.7
bating
removing unwanted interfibrillary proteins by treating the hides (3.48) and skins (3.88) with
bates (3.6), to obtain soft and pliable leather with a smooth grain (3.46) surface
3.8
baume
liquid density measurement which can be converted to specific gravity
Note 1 to entry: Typically used to calculate the concentration of the process solution, for example salt solution,
using the following formulae:
— for liquids heavier than water, specific gravity = 145/(145 − n) at 15 °C (60 °F);
— for liquids lighter than water, specific gravity = 140/(130 + n) at 15 °C (60 °F).
where n is the reading on the baume scale abbreviated as °Be.
Note 2 to entry: Be is equivalent to 6,9 °barkometer (3.3) reading, Bk.
3.9
beam
convex wooden slab sloping downward from about waist height over which a hide (3.48)
is placed for unhairing, trimming off excess flesh and ragged edges, and scudding (3.78) by hand knife
3.10
binder
film-forming material, usually polymeric, used to adhere pigment particles and additives
for coating the surface of the leather
3.11
bleaching
lightening the colour by suitable chemical treatment
3.12
bleaching of vegetable-tanned leather
removing oxidized tannins and insoluble materials from the surface layers of leather, in
order to prevent cracking of the grain (3.46) and to lighten the colour
3.13
boil test
test of a piece of fully hydrated leather to check whether there is any shrinkage after
placing in boiling water for 2 min to 3 min
Note 1 to entry: When the leather retains the original area, chrome tanning is considered complete.
2 © ISO 2019 – All rights reserved

3.14
box calf leather
full chrome tanned calf leather, black or coloured, smooth or boarded, with a proteinic
finish (3.39)
3.15
break of leather
surface wrinkles formed when the leather is bent, grain (3.46) inward
Note 1 to entry: Adjectives commonly used to describe this characteristic are “tight”, “fine”, “loose”, “coarse”,
“pipey” and “flanky”. Generally, the finer the wrinkles or grain break, the better the quality of the leather.
3.16
buffing
abrasive mechanical treatment to the grain (3.46) or flesh surface of the leather
Note 1 to entry: See also snuffing (3.90).
3.17
burnishable leather
leather which will develop a shiny darkening appearance on rubbing or polishing
3.18
burst strength
force required to completely rupture the full thickness of the leather test piece
[SOURCE: ISO 3379:2015]
3.19
chamois
leather made from the flesh split (3.93.2) of sheepskin or lamb skin (3.88), or from sheepskin
or lamb skin (3.88) from which the grain (3.46) has been removed by frizzing, and tanned by processes
involving the oxidation of marine oils in the skin, using solely such oils (full-oil chamois) or first an
aldehyde and then such oils (combination chamois)
Note 1 to entry: Also leather made from the skin of a mountain antelope or chamois, but such leather is rare.
Note 2 to entry: In German language this term is also used to define chamois for clothing made out of deer skin.
Note 3 to entry: Chamois are also made out of goatskins.
3.20
chrome-free leather
hide (3.48) or skin (3.88) converted to leather by a tanning agent free of chromium salts,
where the total content of chromium in the tanned leather is less than or equal to 0,1% (mass of
chromium/total dry weight of leather)
3.21
chrome-tanned leather
hide (3.48) or skin (3.88) converted to leather either by treatment solely with chromium
salts or with chromium salts together with a small amount of some other tanning agent, used merely
to assist the chromium tanning process, and not in sufficient amount to alter the essential chromium
tanned character of the leather
3.22
coated and coated split leather
leather and split leather (3.93) where the surface coating, applied to the outer side, does not
exceed one third of the total thickness of the product but is in excess of 0,15 mm
3.23
cold crack resistance
resistance of leather finish (3.39) to crack and peel when subject to bending/flexing
under a temperature not exceeding −5 °C
3.24
corrected grain leather
leather in which the grain (3.46) has been partially removed by buffing (3.16) or any similar
mechanical treatment, and enhanced by a finishing (3.40) treatment
Note 1 to entry: The original pattern is generally identifiable except for heavily corrected grains.
3.25
crocking
transfer of colourant to the contact fabric when dry rubbed or wet rubbed
3.26
curing
temporary preservation of raw hides (3.72) and skins (3.88)
3.27
degreasing
removing natural fat from the hide (3.48) or skin (3.88) by emulsification in an aqueous
media and/or using a solvent media
3.28
degree of tannage
amount of fixed organic matter in 100 g of collagen
Note 1 to entry: Applicable to mineral-free leathers.
3.29
deliming
removing the alkalinity of limed pelt (3.67)
3.30
double face
double-sided leather made from lamb or sheep skins (3.88) or other animals with wool,
dressed, tanned, softened and dyed for desired properties
3.31
drawn grain
unwanted distorted grain (3.46) appearance
3.32
drum
cylindrical vessel with baffles inside and capable of rotation about its own axis, used for
mechanical agitation in leather processing
3.33
dry drumming
dry tumbling for leather with or without additives in a revolving drum (3.32) to soften the
structure and improve the nap (3.58)
Note 1 to entry: Also referred to as dry milling.
3.34
dry salting
curing (3.26) by which the hides (3.48) and skins (3.88) are treated with common salt and dried
4 © ISO 2019 – All rights reserved

3.35
dyed crust leather
leather tanned, dyed, fatliquored and dried, before finishing (3.40)
3.36
E.I. leather
East India leather
vegetable-tanned leather (3.100) with characteristic light beige or pale golden yellow colour
manufactured by a process specific to a geographical location
Note 1 to entry: Registered Indian geographical indication number 95.
3.37
fatliquor
natural or synthetic oil-based formulation that can be an emulsion, solution or dispersion
used to lubricate leather fibres
3.38
fatliquoring
application of fatliquors (3.37) for lubricating and softening leathers
3.39
finish
coating on a leather surface
3.40
finishing
chemical and/or mechanical operations carried out on crust leathers to impart the desired
properties for the intended final use of the leather
3.41
flexural endurance
ability of finished leather to endure the stress applied due to repeated bending
3.42
fog resistance
resistance to the release of semi-volatile and low-volatile substances present in the
leather at high ambient temperature
3.43
full grain leather
leather having kept its entire grain (3.46), with none of the surface removed by any
corrective mechanical treatment
3.44
fur dressing
finishing (3.40) fur leather
Note 1 to entry: When dressing the furs, they are sheared (or trimmed), bleached (optional), dyed, combed and
finally plush wheeled.
3.45
glazing

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