Textiles — Quality labelling specification for dehaired cashmere

Textiles — Spécification d'étiquetage qualité du cachemire épilé

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6000 - International Standard under publication
Completion Date
16-Mar-2023
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ISO/DISFDIS 5162:2022(E)
Style Definition: Heading 1
2022-10-20 Style Definition: Heading 2: Tab stops: Not at 0.63 cm
Style Definition: Heading 3: Tab stops: 1.27 cm, List tab
ISO TC 38/SC 23/WG 5
Secretariat: SACKATS
Style Definition: Heading 4: Tab stops: 1.9 cm, List tab
Textiles — — Quality labelling specification for dehaired cashmere
+ Not at 1.27 cm
Style Definition: Heading 5: Tab stops: 1.9 cm, List tab
+ Not at 1.27 cm
Style Definition: Heading 6: Tab stops: 2.54 cm, List tab
+ Not at 1.27 cm + 1.9 cm
Style Definition: Default Paragraph Font
Style Definition: List Number 1: Tab stops: Not at 0.7
cm + 1.4 cm + 2.1 cm + 2.8 cm + 3.5 cm + 4.2 cm +
4.9 cm + 5.6 cm + 6.3 cm + 7 cm
Style Definition: a2: Tab stops: 0.63 cm, List tab
Style Definition: a3: Tab stops: 1.27 cm, List tab
Style Definition: a4: Tab stops: 1.9 cm, List tab
Style Definition: a5: Tab stops: 1.9 cm, List tab
Style Definition: a6: Tab stops: 2.54 cm, List tab
Style Definition: ANNEX
Style Definition: AMEND Terms Heading: Pattern: 15%
Style Definition: AMEND Heading 1 Unnumbered:
Pattern: 15%
Formatted: French (Switzerland)
Formatted: French (Switzerland)
Formatted: English (United States)
Formatted: English (United States)
---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
ISO/DISFDIS 5162:2022(E)
© ISO 2022

All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation,

no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means,

electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on the internet or an intranet,

without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address

below or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
ISO copyright office
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
Phone: +41 22 749 01 11
Fax: +41 22 749 09 47
Email: copyright@iso.org
Website: www.iso.org
Published in Switzerland
ii © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
---------------------- Page: 2 ----------------------
ISO/DISFDIS 5162:2022(E)
Contents

Foreword ................................................................................................................................................................. iv

Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)

1 Scope ............................................................................................................................................................ 1

Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)

2 Normative references .............................................................................................................................. 1

Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)

3 Terms and definitions ............................................................................................................................. 2

Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)

4 Quality labelling requirements............................................................................................................. 3

Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)

5 Test methods .............................................................................................................................................. 5

Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)

6 Inspection rules ........................................................................................................................................ 7

Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)

7 Packaging and labelling .......................................................................................................................... 8

8 Test report .................................................................................................................................................. 8

Annex A (informative) Identification of skin cashmere .............................................................................. 9

Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)

Bibliography .......................................................................................................................................................... 13

Formatted: Font color: Blue, French (France)
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved iii
---------------------- Page: 3 ----------------------
ISO/DISFDIS 5162:2022(E)
Foreword

ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national

standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally

carried out through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a

technical committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee.

International organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in

the work. ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all

matters of electrotechnical standardization.

The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are

described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the

different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the

editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).

Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of

patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of

any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or

on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).

Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not

constitute an endorsement.

For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and

expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to the

World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT), see

www.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.

This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles, Subcommittee SC 23, Fibres

and yarns.

Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A

complete listing of these bodies can be found at
www.iso.org/members.html.www.iso.org/members.html.
iv © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
---------------------- Page: 4 ----------------------
FINAL DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO/DISFDIS 5162:2022(E)
Textiles — Quality labelling specification for dehaired cashmere
1 Scope
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm

This document specifies the terms and definitions, labelling requirements, test methods, inspection

rules, packaging, labelling and test report of pure virgin dehaired cashmere.
Formatted: English (United Kingdom)

This document is not applicable to dehaired cashmere tops, skin cashmere, recycled cashmere and

products after spinning, including yarns, fabrics, garments, apparel and accessories, household textiles,

etc.
2 Normative references Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm

The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content

constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For

undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.

ISO 137, Wool — Determination of fibre diameter — Projection microscope method
ISO 139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing
ISO 1833 (all parts), Textiles — Quantitative chemical test
Formatted: std_docPartNumber
Formatted: Default Paragraph Font
ISO 3071, Textiles — Determination of pH of aqueous extract

ISO 3074, Wool — Determination of dichloromethane-soluble matter in combed sliver

ISO 17751-1, Textiles — Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other specialty animal fibers and their

blends — Part 1: Light microscopy method

ISO 17751-2, Textiles — Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other specialty animal fibers and their

blends — Part 2: Scanning electron microscopy method

ISO 18254-1, Textiles — Method for the detection and determination of alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) —

Part 1: Method using HPLC-MS

ISO 18596, Test method for staple length of dehaired cashmere — Hand-arranging method

ISO 20705, Textiles — Quantitative microscopical analysis — General principles of testing

IWTO-12 Measurement of the Mean and Distribution of Fibre Diameter Using the Sirolan-Laserscan Fibre

Diameter Analyser

IWTO 19 Determination of Wool Base and Vegetable Matter Base of Core Samples of Raw Wool

IWTO-33 Method for the Determination of Oven-Dry Mass and Calculated Invoice Mass of Scoured or

Carbonised Wool
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved 1
---------------------- Page: 5 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Formatted: Left, Line spacing: Exactly 12 pt

IWTO-47 Measurement of the Mean and Distribution of Fibre Diameter of Wool using an Optical Fibre

Diameter Analyser (OFDA)
3 Terms and definitions
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
Formatted: Adjust space between Latin and Asian text,
Adjust space between Asian text and numbers

ISO and IEC maintain terminologicalterminology databases for use in standardization at the following

Formatted: English (United States)
addresses:
Formatted: English (United States)

— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https://www.iso.org/obphttps://www.iso.org/obp

Formatted: Font: Times New Roman, 12 pt, English

— IEC Electropedia: available at https://www.electropedia.org/https://www.electropedia.org/

(United States)
Formatted: English (United States)
3.1
Formatted: Adjust space between Latin and Asian text,
raw cashmere
Adjust space between Asian text and numbers, Tab

unprocessed down fibre from the fine, soft undercoat or underlayer of live cashmere goat producing

stops: Not at 0.7 cm + 1.4 cm + 2.1 cm + 2.8 cm +

two layers of hair, predominated by fine undercoat down with minor amount of natural foreign matters

3.5 cm + 4.2 cm + 4.9 cm + 5.6 cm + 6.3 cm + 7 cm
(3.8)
Formatted: Hyperlink, English (United States)
3.2
Formatted: English (United States)
dehaired cashmere
Formatted: Hyperlink, English (United States)

processed cashmere after industrialized scouring and dehairing of raw cashmere (3.1)

Formatted: cite_sec
3.3
Formatted: cite_sec
pure virgin cashmere

100 % unused dehaired cashmere (3.2) without any other animal and non-animal fibre, which never

Formatted: cite_sec

goes through process(es) of dyeing, spinning, knitting or weaving, finishing or chemically treated (such

as bleaching, decolouration, depigmentation etc.)
3.4
skin cashmere

cashmere recovered from the pelts of dead cashmere goat by chemical method or reagents

3.5
recycled cashmere

loose cashmere fibre recollected after going through processing stage(s), such as spinning, knitting,

weaving, finishing, felting or used by consumers
3.6
guard hair
coarser hair in cashmere fibre with diameter ≥ 30 μm
3.7
guard hair content
percentage of mass of coarse fibre with diameter ≥ 30 μm in the total fibre mass
3.8
foreign matter
non-fibrous matter such as soil, dandruff and burrs etc. included in cashmere
3.9
foreign matter content
2 © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
---------------------- Page: 6 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Formatted: Right, Line spacing: Exactly 12 pt
number of pieces of foreign matters (3.8) in one gram of dehaired cashmere (3.2)
Formatted: cite_sec
Formatted: cite_sec
3.10
dark fibre

fibre longer than 5 mm with colour showing obvious difference from the original base colour of

cashmere, including dark fibre and non-white fibre
3.11
short fibre content

percentage of number of cashmere fibres ≤ 15 mm in the total number of a specific mass

3.12
damaged fibre content

percentage of number of fibres showing fibrillation, axial splitting, ruptures, split ends, scale lifting,

kinked bends or other damage in the total number of a specific number of fibres observed

3.13
non-animal matter

vegetable fibres, chemical fibres and/or other polymer matter (3.15) contained in dehaired cashmere

Formatted: cite_sec
(3.2)
Formatted: cite_sec
3.14
other animal fibre
animal fibres other than cashmere in dehaired cashmere (3.2)
Formatted: cite_sec
3.15
polymer matter

synthetic matter in particles or fragments of polymer matter (such as polypropylene), but not confined

to those derived from packing materials
4 Quality labelling requirements
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm
4.1 Product classification
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm

Based on its natural colour, cashmere is classified into white, grey and brown cashmere, which is

expressed with letter W, G and B, respectively. The characteristics of each type is described as follows:

— white cashmere(W): both cashmere and coarse hair show natural white colour;

— grey cashmere(G): cashmere shows grey, white and light brown colours, coarse hair shows light

brown and white or brown colour;

— brown cashmere(B): cashmere shows brown colour, coarse hair shows dark brown colour.

In the case that different colour types are blended, colour class is assigned according to the darker one.

4.2 Product type
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm

Pure virgin cashmere is classified into five types of A, B, C, D and E based on its corresponding mean

Formatted: English (United Kingdom)

fibre diameter range. It is further sub-classified by combining mean fibre length, short fibre content,

guard hair content and foreign matter content, as shown in Table 1.
Table 1 — — Dehaired cashmere types
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved 3
---------------------- Page: 7 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Formatted: Left, Line spacing: Exactly 12 pt
Foreign Non-animal
Mean fibre Mean fibre Short fibre
Type and Guard hair matter matter (%)
diameter length content
Formatted: Font: Not Bold
grade content (%) ≤ content
(μm) (mm) (%)
(pcs/g)
1 ≥ 36,0 ≤ 19 ≤ 0,15 ≤ 40
2 32,0 - 36,0 19 - 21 0,15 - 0,20 40 - 70
A ≤ 14,9 ≤ 0,02 %
3 28,0 - 32,0 21 - 25 0,20 - 0,28 70 - 100
4 ≤ 28,0 ≥ 25 ≤ 0,35 ≥ 100
1 ≥ 36,0 ≤ 19 ≤ 0,15 ≤ 40
2 32,0 - 36,0 19 - 22 0,15 - 0,25 40 - 70
B 14,9 - 15,9 ≤ 0,02 %
3 28,0 - 32,0 22 - 25 0,25 - 0,30 70 - 100
4 ≤ 28,0 ≥ 25 ≤ 0,60 ≥ 100
1 ≥ 36,0 ≤ 19 ≤ 0,25 ≤ 40
2 32,0 - 36,0 19 - 23 0,25 - 0,30 40 - 70
C 15,9 - 16,9 ≤ 0,02 %
3 28,0 - 32,0 23 - 26 0,30 - 0,35 70 - 100
4 ≤ 28,0 ≥ 26 ≤ 0,65 ≥ 100
1 32,0 - 36,0 ≤ 23 ≤ 0,30 ≤ 40
D 2 16,9 - 17,9 28,0 - 32,0 23 - 27 0,30 - 0,35 40 - 70 ≤ 0,03 %
3 ≤ 28,0 ≥ 27 ≤ 0,70 >70
1 28,0 - 32,0 ≤ 30 ≤ 0,35 ≤ 70
E 17,9 - 19,0 ≤ 0,03 %
2 ≤ 28,0 >30 ≤ 0,80 >70
4.3 Other quality parameters
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm
All types of pure virgin cashmere shall meet the following requirements:
Formatted: English (United Kingdom)
a) Coefficient of variation (CV %) %) of mean fibre diameter ≤ 24 %;
Formatted: Tab stops: 0.7 cm, Left + 1.4 cm, Left + 2.1
cm, Left + 2.8 cm, Left + 3.5 cm, Left + 4.2 cm, Left +
b) No other animal fibre shall be present;
4.9 cm, Left + 5.6 cm, Left + 6.3 cm, Left + 7 cm, Left

c) Dark fibre number for white cashmere: Whiter in white type(L)≤ 15 dark fibres/5 g; Normal white

type(N):16-30 dark fibres/5 g;
d) pH value 6,0 to 7,5;
e) Residual surfactant APEO (OP, OPEO, NP, NPEO) shall be less than 50 mg/kg.
4.4 Quality labelling
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm

Quality labelling codes of dehaired cashmere are composed of the English name of dehaired cashmere,

cashmere-d, colour code (see 4.1 and 4.3 c) for white cashmere only) and type code (see 4.2).

EXAMPLE: Dehaired white in white cashmere with mean fibre diameter 14,9 μm to 15,9 μm, mean fibre length

36,0 mm – 32,0 mm, short fibre content 19 % – 22 %, guard hair content ≤ 0,25 % - 0,30 %, foreign matter content

50 pcs/g, and other parameters meet all requirements described in 4.3, its quality labelling code is “cashmere-d-

W-(L)-B2232”, which represents dehaired white cashmere with less than 15 dark fibres in 5/g of mean fibre

4 © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
---------------------- Page: 8 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Formatted: Right, Line spacing: Exactly 12 pt

diameter type B with mean fibre length grade 2, short fibre content grade 2, guard hair content grade 3 and

foreign matter content grade 2.
5 Test methods
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm
5.1 Standard atmospheres
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm

The standard atmosphere for conditioning and testing textiles in ISO 139 shall be used.

5.2 Mean fibre diameter test
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm

The mean fibre diameter test shall be in accordance with the methods given in either: ISO 137, IWTO-

12 or IWTO-47.

In case of disputeissues arise concerning the test results, ISO 137 shall be used asto distinguish the

arbitration methodresults.
5.3 Mean fibre length and short fibre content test
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm

The mean fibre length and short fibre content test shall be as described in ISO 18596.

5.4 Guard fibre content test
Formatted: Tab stops: Not at 0.76 cm + 2.38 cm

Condition the test specimen as described in ISO 139 and then take 2 test specimens, mass of each 2 g,

accurate to 0,000 1 g. Place each test specimen respectively onto a board or a flat surface exhibiting

Formatted: English (United Kingdom)

distinctive colour difference from the fibre to be tested. Pick out all the guard fibres in accordance with

ISO 20705. Weigh and record the mass, with an accuracy of 0,000 1 g. Calculate guard fibre percentage

using Formula (1):
Formatted: cite_eq
𝐵 = ×100 B=100 (1)
𝑐 c
where
is the guard hair content, %;
is the mass of guard hair, in gram (g);
m is the mass of test specimen,
...

FINAL
INTERNATIONAL ISO/FDIS
DRAFT
STANDARD 5162
ISO/TC 38/SC 23
Textiles — Quality labelling
Secretariat: KATS
specification for dehaired cashmere
Voting begins on:
2023-01-18
Textiles - Spécification d'étiquetage qualité du cachemire épilé
Voting terminates on:
2023-03-15
RECIPIENTS OF THIS DRAFT ARE INVITED TO
SUBMIT, WITH THEIR COMMENTS, NOTIFICATION
OF ANY RELEVANT PATENT RIGHTS OF WHICH
THEY ARE AWARE AND TO PROVIDE SUPPOR TING
DOCUMENTATION.
IN ADDITION TO THEIR EVALUATION AS
Reference number
BEING ACCEPTABLE FOR INDUSTRIAL, TECHNO-
ISO/FDIS 5162:2023(E)
LOGICAL, COMMERCIAL AND USER PURPOSES,
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS MAY ON
OCCASION HAVE TO BE CONSIDERED IN THE
LIGHT OF THEIR POTENTIAL TO BECOME STAN-
DARDS TO WHICH REFERENCE MAY BE MADE IN
NATIONAL REGULATIONS. © ISO 2023
---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2023(E)
FINAL
INTERNATIONAL ISO/FDIS
DRAFT
STANDARD 5162
ISO/TC 38/SC 23
Textiles — Quality labelling
Secretariat: KATS
specification for dehaired cashmere
Voting begins on:
Textiles - Spécification d'étiquetage qualité du cachemire épilé
Voting terminates on:
COPYRIGHT PROTECTED DOCUMENT
© ISO 2023

All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication may

be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on

the internet or an intranet, without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address below

or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
RECIPIENTS OF THIS DRAFT ARE INVITED TO
ISO copyright office
SUBMIT, WITH THEIR COMMENTS, NOTIFICATION
OF ANY RELEVANT PATENT RIGHTS OF WHICH
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
THEY ARE AWARE AND TO PROVIDE SUPPOR TING
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
DOCUMENTATION.
Phone: +41 22 749 01 11
IN ADDITION TO THEIR EVALUATION AS
Reference number
Email: copyright@iso.org
BEING ACCEPTABLE FOR INDUSTRIAL, TECHNO­
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Website: www.iso.org
LOGICAL, COMMERCIAL AND USER PURPOSES,
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS MAY ON
Published in Switzerland
OCCASION HAVE TO BE CONSIDERED IN THE
LIGHT OF THEIR POTENTIAL TO BECOME STAN­
DARDS TO WHICH REFERENCE MAY BE MADE IN
© ISO 2023 – All rights reserved
NATIONAL REGULATIONS. © ISO 2022
---------------------- Page: 2 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Contents Page

Foreword ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................iv

1 Scope ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 1

2 Normative references ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 1

3 Terms and definitions .................................................................................................................................................................................... 1

4 Quality labelling requirements ........................................................................................................................................... .................3

4.1 Product classification ....................................................................................................................................................................... 3

4.2 Product type ............................................................................................................................................................................................. 3

4.3 Other quality parameters ............................................................................................................................................................. 4

4.4 Quality labelling .................................................................................................................................................................................... 4

5 Test methods ............................................................................................................................................................................................................ 4

5.1 Standard atmospheres .................................................................................................................................................................... 4

5.2 Mean fibre diameter test ............................................................................................................................................................... 4

5.3 Mean fibre length and short fibre content test .......................................................................................................... 4

5.4 Guard fibre content test.................................................................................................................................................................. 4

5.5 Foreign matter content test ........................................................................................................................................................ 5

5.6 Dark fibre test ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 5

5.7 Damaged fibre content test ......................................................................................................................................................... 5

5.8 Animal fibre, other animal fibre, non-animal matter and polymer matter content

test ..................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 5

5.9 Moisture regain test .......................................................................................................................................................................... 6

5.10 Grease content test ............................................................................................................................................................................. 6

5.11 pH value test ............................................................................................................................................................................................. 6

5.12 APEO test ..................................................................................................................................................................................................... 6

5.13 Calculation of conditioned weight ......................................................................................................................................... 6

6 Inspection rules .................................................................................................................................................................................................... 6

6.1 Sampling ....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 6

6.1.1 Lot sample proportion and number .................................................................................................................. 6

6.1.2 Drawing of samples.......................................................................................................................................................... 6

6.1.3 Test specimen preparation ........................................................................................................................................ 7

6.2 Inspection ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 7

7 Packaging and labelling ............................................................................................................................................................................... 7

8 Test report .................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 7

Annex A (informative) Identification of skin cashmere .................................................................................................................. 9

Bibliography .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................13

iii
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
---------------------- Page: 3 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Foreword

ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards

bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out

through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical

committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International

organizations, governmental and non­governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.

ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of

electrotechnical standardization.

The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are

described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the

different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the

editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).

Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of

patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of

any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or

on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).

Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not

constitute an endorsement.

For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and

expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to

the World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT), see

www.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.

This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles, Subcommittee SC 23, Fibres

and yarns.

Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A

complete listing of these bodies can be found at www.iso.org/members.html.
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
---------------------- Page: 4 ----------------------
FINAL DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
Textiles — Quality labelling specification for dehaired
cashmere
1 Scope

This document specifies the terms and definitions, labelling requirements, test methods, inspection

rules, packaging, labelling and test report of pure virgin dehaired cashmere.

This document is not applicable to dehaired cashmere tops, skin cashmere, recycled cashmere and

products after spinning, including yarns, fabrics, garments, apparel and accessories, household textiles,

etc.
2 Normative references

The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content

constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For

undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.

ISO 137, Wool — Determination of fibre diameter — Projection microscope method
ISO 139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing
ISO 1833 (all parts), Textiles — Quantitative chemical test
ISO 3071, Textiles — Determination of pH of aqueous extract

ISO 3074, Wool — Determination of dichloromethane-soluble matter in combed sliver

ISO 17751­1, Textiles — Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other specialty animal fibers and their

blends — Part 1: Light microscopy method

ISO 17751­2, Textiles — Quantitative analysis of cashmere, wool, other specialty animal fibers and their

blends — Part 2: Scanning electron microscopy method

ISO 18254­1, Textiles — Method for the detection and determination of alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) —

Part 1: Method using HPLC-MS

ISO 18596, Test method for staple length of dehaired cashmere — Hand-arranging method

ISO 20705, Textiles — Quantitative microscopical analysis — General principles of testing

IWTO­12 Measurement of the Mean and Distribution of Fibre Diameter Using the Sirolan-Laserscan Fibre

Diameter Analyser

IWTO 19 Determination of Wool Base and Vegetable Matter Base of Core Samples of Raw Wool

IWTO­33 Method for the Determination of Oven-Dry Mass and Calculated Invoice Mass of Scoured or

Carbonised Wool

IWTO­47 Measurement of the Mean and Distribution of Fibre Diameter of Wool using an Optical Fibre

Diameter Analyser (OFDA)
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
---------------------- Page: 5 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)

ISO and IEC maintain terminology databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:

— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https:// www .iso .org/ obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at https:// www .electropedia .org/
3.1
raw cashmere

unprocessed down fibre from the fine, soft undercoat or underlayer of live cashmere goat producing

two layers of hair, predominated by fine undercoat down with minor amount of natural foreign matters

(3.8)
3.2
dehaired cashmere

processed cashmere after industrialized scouring and dehairing of raw cashmere (3.1)

3.3
pure virgin cashmere

100 % unused dehaired cashmere (3.2) without any other animal and non-animal fibre, which never

goes through process(es) of dyeing, spinning, knitting or weaving, finishing or chemically treated (such

as bleaching, decolouration, depigmentation etc.)
3.4
skin cashmere

cashmere recovered from the pelts of dead cashmere goat by chemical method or reagents

3.5
recycled cashmere

loose cashmere fibre recollected after going through processing stage(s), such as spinning, knitting,

weaving, finishing, felting or used by consumers
3.6
guard hair
coarser hair in cashmere fibre with diameter ≥ 30 μm
3.7
guard hair content
percentage of mass of coarse fibre with diameter ≥ 30 μm in the total fibre mass
3.8
foreign matter
non-fibrous matter such as soil, dandruff and burrs etc. included in cashmere
3.9
foreign matter content
number of pieces of foreign matters (3.8) in one gram of dehaired cashmere (3.2)
3.10
dark fibre

fibre longer than 5 mm with colour showing obvious difference from the original base colour of

cashmere, including dark fibre and non-white fibre
3.11
short fibre content

percentage of number of cashmere fibres ≤ 15 mm in the total number of a specific mass

3.12
damaged fibre content

percentage of number of fibres showing fibrillation, axial splitting, ruptures, split ends, scale lifting,

kinked bends or other damage in the total number of a specific number of fibres observed

© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
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ISO/FDIS 5162:2022(E)
3.13
non-animal matter

vegetable fibres, chemical fibres and/or other polymer matter (3.15) contained in dehaired cashmere

(3.2)
3.14
other animal fibre
animal fibres other than cashmere in dehaired cashmere
...

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