oSIST prEN 893:2007
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods
This standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons for use in mountaineering on snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
La présente norme prescrit des exigences de sécurité et des méthodes d’essai relatives aux crampons utilisés dans la pratique de l’alpinisme et de l’escalade sur neige et sur glace ainsi qu’en terrain mixte.
Gorniška oprema - Dereze - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
SLOVENSKI STANDARD
oSIST prEN 893:2007
01-januar-2007
Gorniška oprema - Dereze - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes
d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: prEN 893
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
oSIST prEN 893:2007 en
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.
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oSIST prEN 893:2007
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oSIST prEN 893:2007
EUROPEAN STANDARD
DRAFT
prEN 893
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
September 2006
ICS 97.220.40 Will supersede EN 893:1999
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements
and test methods
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen - Sicherheitstechnische
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
This draft European Standard is submitted to CEN members for enquiry. It has been drawn up by the Technical Committee CEN/TC 136.
If this draft becomes a European Standard, CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which
stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration.
This draft European Standard was established by CEN in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language
made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the Management Centre has the same
status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France,
Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania,
Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.
Recipients of this draft are invited to submit, with their comments, notification of any relevant patent rights of which they are aware and to
provide supporting documentation.
Warning : This document is not a European Standard. It is distributed for review and comments. It is subject to change without notice and
shall not be referred to as a European Standard.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
Management Centre: rue de Stassart, 36 B-1050 Brussels
© 2006 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. prEN 893:2006: E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
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prEN 893:2006 (E)
Contents Page
Foreword.3
Introduction .4
1 Scope.5
2 Normative references.5
3 Terms and definitions .5
4 Safety requirements.7
4.1 Shape and design.7
4.2 Strength.7
4.2.1 Hardness.7
4.2.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes.7
4.2.3 Transverse strength of bails of clip-on bindings .8
4.2.4 Strength of binding parts other than bails.8
4.2.5 Strength of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding.8
4.2.6 Longitudinal strength of the frame .8
5 Test methods.8
5.1 Test samples.8
5.2 Test conditions.8
5.3 Apparatus.9
5.3.1 Load bar for bending test on downward spikes and front spikes.9
5.4 Test procedure.10
5.4.1 Shape, design and hardness .10
5.4.2 Bending strength test on spikes .10
5.4.3 Transverse strength test on bails .10
5.4.4 Strength test of binding parts other than bails .11
5.4.5 Strength test of binding closures .12
5.4.6 Strength test of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding.13
5.4.7 Longitudinal strength test of the frame.13
6 Marking.14
7 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer.14
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment.15
Annex ZA (informative) Clauses of this European Standard addressing essential requirements or
other provisions of EU Directive.16
2
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oSIST prEN 893:2007
prEN 893:2006 (E)
Foreword
This document (prEN 893:2006) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, play-
ground and other recreational equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This document is currently submitted to the CEN Enquiry.
This document will supersede EN 893:1999.
This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the
European Free Trade Association to support Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.
For relationship with EU Directives, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document.
3
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Introduction
The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard S (Union Internationale des Asso-
ciations d'Alpinisme), which has been developed with international participation.
This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
4
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1 Scope
This standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons for use in mountaineering on
snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated refer-
ences, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document
(including any amendments) applies.
EN 565, Mountaineering equipment — Slings — Safety requirements and test methods
EN 10109-1, Metallic materials — Hardness test — Part 1: Rockwell test (scales A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, K) and
Rockwell superficial test
ISO 9523, Touring ski-boots for adults — Interface with ski-binding
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply (see Figure 1):
3.1
crampon
device fitted with spikes, which is intended to cover the sole of a boot, from toe to heel and from one side to
the other, so as to provide grip on snow, ice and mixed terrain and which has a system of attachment to the
boot
3.2
frame
part or parts of the crampon which bears the spikes
3.3
front spike
forward pointing spike intended for use when climbing steep terrain
3.4
down spike
spike usually, but not necessarily, pointing vertically downward
3.5
binding
system of attachment to the boot
3.6
clip-on binding
particular binding which uses a lever mechanism for rapid attachment of a crampon to a boot
3.7
bail
stirrup-shaped part or parts of a binding used to connect the crampon to the toe and/or to the heel of the boot
5
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3.8
attachment rings or eyes
rings or eyes which are threaded by a part of the binding when fitted in accordance with the manufacturers
instruction
3.9
adjustment system
system for adjusting the crampon to fit the boot
3.10
retaining system
system which prevents the climber from losing the crampon if the binding fails
3.11
spur
any other spike than front spikes and downward spikes
Figure 1 — Parts of a crampon
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4 Safety requirements
4.1 Shape and design
4.1.1 Each crampon shall have a system of attachment to the boot.
4.1.2 Each crampon shall have at least 8 spikes, not including spurs.
4.1.3 Each crampon shall have at least 6 downward spikes, which
a) shall be at least 20 mm long (see Figure 2), and
b) when walking normally on flat and smooth ice, shall touch the surface of the ice.
Dimensions in millimetres
Figure 2 — Length of spikes
4.1.4 All edges with which the users hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs.
4.1.5 If the crampon has a clip-on binding it shall be fitted with a retaining system.
4.2 Strength
4.2.1 Hardness
Each part of the crampon, which contains a spike or spikes, shall have a hardness of at least 70 HRB.
Testing according 5.4.1.3.
4.2.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes
When tested according to 5.4.2, the maximum deformation under load and the permanent deformation after
removing the load, measured
...
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