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ASTM D1683-04

(Test Method)

Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics

Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics

SCOPE
1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn seams.
Note 1—The grab test procedure in Test Method D 5034 shall be used to determine any characteristic in fabric that can affect the measurement of sewn seam strength.
1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric samples using either a specific seam assembly (see )Table 1, or production seam assemblies.
1.2 This test method is used when a breaking force to rupture, a minimum elongation, or both are required to determine the sewn seam strength, seam slippage, or seam integrity of a particular fabric for a specified end use.
Note 2—This test method is used in conjunction with Test Method D 5034, which is used to measure breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics. Sewn seams in woven fabrics can fail due to rupture, slippage, or any combination thereof. Rupture can be further categorized as failure or fabric, or sewing thread, or seam slippage.
1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear performance of a seam.
1.4 The values stated in either acceptable metric units (SI) or in other units shall be regarded separately as standard. The values expressed in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore each system must be used independently of the other, without combining values in any way.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

General Information

Status
Historical
Publication Date
29-Feb-2004
ICS
59.080.30 - Textile fabrics
Technical Committee
D13 - Textiles
Drafting Committee
D13.54 - Subassemblies
Current Stage
Ref Project

Relations

Replaces
ASTM D1683-90a - Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics (Withdrawn 1999)
Effective Date
01-Mar-2004
Replaced By
ASTM D1683-07 - Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics
Effective Date
01-Jul-2007
Referred By
ASTM D7016/D7016M-20 - Standard Test Method to Evaluate Edge Binding Components Used in Mattresses After Exposure to An Open Flame
Effective Date
01-Mar-2004
Referred By
ASTM D4721-12(2019) - Standard Practice for Evaluation of the Performance of Machine Washable and Drycleanable Bedcoverings and Accessories
Effective Date
01-Mar-2004
Referred By
ASTM D7571-21 - Standard Specification for Retained Sewn Seam Strength After Exposures to Hot Air and Open Flame
Effective Date
01-Mar-2004
Referred By
ASTM E1549/E1549M-13(2022) - Standard Specification for ESD Controlled Garments Required in Cleanrooms and Controlled Environments for Spacecraft for Non-Hazardous and Hazardous Operations
Effective Date
01-Mar-2004
Referred By
ASTM D4720-08(2019) - Standard Performance Specification for Soft Window Covering Fabrics for Household Use
Effective Date
01-Mar-2004
Referred By
ASTM D4231-22 - Standard Practice for Evaluation of Launderable Woven Dress Shirts and Sports Shirts
Effective Date
01-Mar-2004
Referred By
ASTM D4034/D4034M-19 - Standard Test Method for Resistance to Yarn Slippage at the Sewn Seam in Woven Upholstery Fabrics
Effective Date
01-Mar-2004
Referred By
ASTM F2729-18 - Standard Consumer Safety Specification for Constant Air Inflatable Play Devices for Home Use
Effective Date
01-Mar-2004

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ASTM D1683-04 - Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel FabricsASTM D1683-04 - Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics
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ASTM D1683-04 - Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics
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NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: D 1683 – 04
Standard Test Method for
1
Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 1683; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in
1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in
Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam
woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn
D 1776 Practice for Conditioning Textiles for Testing and
seams.
Testing Textiles
NOTE 1—The grab test procedure in Test Method D 5034 shall be used
D 5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation
todetermineanycharacteristicinfabricthatcanaffectthemeasurementof
of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
sewn seam strength.
D 6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams
1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtained
from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric 3. Terminology
samples using either a specific seam assembly (see Table 1), or
3.1 Definitions:
production seam assemblies.
3.1.1 needle damage, n—in sewn fabrics, the partial or
1.2 This test method is used when a breaking force to
complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle
rupture, a minimum elongation, or both are required to
passing through a fabric during sewing.
determine the sewn seam strength, seam slippage, or seam
3.1.2 seam allowance, n—in sewn fabrics,thedistancefrom
integrity of a particular fabric for a specified end use.
the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that
edge.
NOTE 2—This test method is used in conjunction with Test Method
3.1.3 seam assembly, n—the composite structure obtained
D 5034, which is used to measure breaking force and elongation of textile
fabrics. Sewn seams in woven fabrics can fail due to rupture, slippage, or when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.
any combination thereof. Rupture can be further categorized as failure or
3.1.3.1 Discussion—A seam assembly may be described in
fabric, or sewing thread, or seam slippage.
terms of fabric orientation, seam direction, seam type, stitch
1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear perfor- type, seam allowance, sewing thread tex number(s) and type(s)
mance of a seam. stitch density, stitch gage, and rows of stitching.
1.4 The values stated in either acceptable metric units (SI) 3.1.4 seam effıciency, n—in sewn fabrics, the ratio, ex-
or in other units shall be regarded separately as standard. The pressed as a percentage, of the breaking force required to
values expressed in each system may not be exact equivalents; rupture a sewn seam to that required to rupture the fabric.
therefore each system must be used independently of the other, 3.1.5 seam engineering, n—in sewn fabrics, the procedures
without combining values in any way. used to select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the type, seam type, and stitch density to achieve the maximum
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the sewn seam strength for a particular fabric type.
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro- 3.1.6 seam failure, n—in sewn fabrics, that point at which
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica- an external force (1) ruptures the sewing thread, (2) ruptures
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use. the fabric, (3) causes excessive yarn slippage adjacent to the
stitches, or (4) causes any combination of these unacceptable
2. Referenced Documents
conditions.
2
2.1 ASTM Standards: 3.1.6.1 Discussion—Despite the lack of rupture, excessive
D 76 SpecificationforTensileTestingMachinesforTextiles
seam slippage will either significantly reduce seam efficiency,
or, result in an unsightly appearance thus creating seam failure.
3.1.7 seam slippage, n—in sewn fabrics, a mode of failure
1
This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 onTextiles
in production seams.
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
Current edition approved March 1, 2004. Published April 2004. Originally 3.1.7.1 Discussion—Shown as a transverse ratio of junction
approved in 1990. Discontinued in 1999 and reinstated in 2004 as D 1683–04.
strength to fabric strength including the ratio of elongation of
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
fabric to the ratio of elongation at the junction. Seam slippage,
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
occurs when fabric yarns par
...

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5.1 Acceptance Testing—This method of testing fabrics for resistance to pilling is not recommended for acceptance testing. If it is used for acceptance testing, it should be used with caution because the between-laboratory precision is poor. In some cases the purchaser and the supplier may have to test a commercial shipment of one or more specific materials by the best available test method, even though the test method is not recommended for acceptance testing.  
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1.1 This test method covers the determination of the propensity of a fabric to form pills and other related surface changes on textiles using the random tumble pilling tester. The procedure is generally applicable to all types of woven and knitted apparel fabrics.  
Note 1: For other test methods for the pilling resistance of textiles, refer to Test Methods D3511/D3511M, D3514/D3514M, and D4970/D4970M.  
1.2 Some fabrics that have been treated with a silicone resin may not be satisfactorily tested by this procedure because the silicone resin may transfer onto the cork liners in the test chamber and cause erroneous results.  
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5.1 Acceptance Testing—This method of testing fabrics resistance to pilling is not recommended for acceptance testing. If it is used for acceptance testing, it should be used with caution because interlaboratory data are not available. In some cases the purchaser or supplier may have to test a commercial shipment of one or more specific materials by the best available method even though the method has not been recommended for acceptance testing. Although this test method is not recommended for acceptance testing, it is useful because it is used widely outside the United States.  
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1.1 This test method covers the determination of the resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface changes on textile fabrics using the Martindale tester.
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1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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ASTM
ASTM D4966-22(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Martindale Abrasion Tester Method)

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Acceptance Testing—this test method is not considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments of fabric. The between-laboratory precision of this test method is poor and, because of the nature of abrasion testing itself, technicians frequently fail to obtain results in agreement on the same type of testing instrument, both within and between laboratories. Although this test method is not recommended for acceptance testing, it is useful because it is used widely, especially outside the United States.  
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using this test method for acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the supplier should conduct comparative tests to determine if there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test specimens that are as homogeneous as possible and that are from a lot of material of the type in question. The test specimens then should be assigned randomly in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using Students t-test for unpaired data and an acceptable probability level chosen by the two parties before the testing is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results in light of the known bias.  
5.2 The resistance to abrasion also is affected greatly by the conditions of the tests, such as the nature of abradant; variable action of the abradant over the area of specimen abraded, the tension on the specimen, the pressure between the specimen and abradant, and the dimensional changes in the specimen.  
5.3 Abrasion tests are all subject to variation due to changes in the abradant during specific tests. The abradant must be changed accordingly at freque...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the abrasion resistance of textile fabrics using the Martindale abrasion tester. The method is generally applicable to knit, woven, and nonwoven fabrics; however, material thickness may limit suitability for testing due to specimen holder capacity.  
1.2 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses are mathematical conversions to SI units that are provided for information only and are not considered standard.  
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
Note 1: For other current test methods of testing the abrasion resistance of textiles refer to Test Methods D3884, D3885, D3886, D4157, D4158, and AATCC TM93.  
1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

  • Standard
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    English language
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  • Standard
    5 pages
    English language
    sale 15% off