ASTM D3135-87(2005)
(Specification)Standard Specification for Performance of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
Standard Specification for Performance of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
ABSTRACT
This specification covers requirements for performance properties of bonded, fused, and laminated apparel fabrics. The fabrics shall be classified according to shrinkage limits: Class I; Class II; and Class III. Puckering, crack marks, bubbles, blisters, pilling, and color change tests shall be performed to determine its properties in accordance to the specified requirements.
SCOPE
1.1 This specification covers requirements for performance properties of bonded, fused, and laminated apparel fabrics.
General Information
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Standards Content (Sample)
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Designation: D3135 – 87 (Reapproved 2005)
Standard Specification for
Performance of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel
Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3135; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3.3 bond strength, n— of bonded, fused, or laminated
fabrics, the tensile force expressed in ounces per 1 in. (25 mm)
1.1 This specification covers requirements for performance
of width, required to separate the component layers under
properties of bonded, fused, and laminated apparel fabrics.
specified conditions.
2. Referenced Documents
3.4 bubble—see preferred term blister.
3.5 closed-face fabric, n—a face or shell fabric of closed
2.1 ASTM Standards:
construction so that no open-face areas appear.
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
3.6 crack mark, n—Crack marks are usually the result of
D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated
combining tight fabric constructions at least one of which does
Apparel Fabrics
not have sufficient residual stretch to allow the combined
D3512 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-
fabrics to be bent in an arc without producing crack marks on
lated Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble
the concave side of the arc. Crack marks also occur when
Pilling Tester
bonded fabrics are allowed to remain in a creased or wrinkled
2.2 AATCC Standards:
state before full adhesive cure has taken place. Other causes
AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (1954), Gray Scale for
include the use of excessive adhesive in bonding, or excessive
Color Change
foam thicknesses and excessive foam collapse in flame lami-
AATCC Test Method 124, Appearance of Durable-Press
nation.sharp break or crease in the surface contour of either the
Fabrics After Repeated Home Launderings
facefabricorthebackingfabricthatbecomesevidentwhenthe
3. Terminology
bonded or laminated composite is rolled, bent, draped, or
folded.
3.1 blister, n—in bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, a
3.6.1 Discussion—Crack marks are usually the result of
bulge, swelling, or similar surface condition on either the face
combining tight fabric constructions at least one of which does
fabric or the backing fabric characterized by the fabric being
not have sufficient residual stretch to allow the combined
raised from the plane of the underlying component over a
fabrics to be bent in an arc without producing crack marks on
limited area to give a puffy appearance.
the concave side of the arc. Crack marks also occur when
3.2 bonded fabric, n—a layered fabric structure wherein a
bonded fabrics are allowed to remain in a creased or wrinkled
face or shell fabric is joined to a backing fabric, such as tricot,
state before full adhesive cure has taken place. Other causes
withanadhesivethatdoesnotsignificantlyaddtothethickness
include the use of excessive adhesive in bonding, or excessive
of the combined fabrics.
foam thicknesses and excessive foam collapse in flame lami-
3.2.1 Discussion—In this context, a thin layer of foam is
nation.
considered an adhesive when the cell structure is completely
3.7 foam tear, n—a condition wherein the foam portion of a
collapsed by a flame.
laminated fabric ruptures prior to the failure of the bond.
3.8 fused fabric, n—a type of bonded fabric made by
This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on
adhering a fusible fabric to another fabric, such as for use as an
Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
interlining.
Current edition approved Sept. 1, 2005. Published December 2005. Originally
approved in 1972. Last previous edition approved in 2000 as D3135 – 87(2000)
3.9 fusible fabric, n—a utilitarian fabric which has a ther-
DOI: 10.1520/D3135-87R05.
moplastic adhesive applied to one side, usually in a pattern of
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
dots,sothatthesurfacecanbebondedtoanotherfabricsurface
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on by the use of heat and pressure.
the ASTM website.
3.10 interlining, n—any textile which is intended for incor-
Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and
poration into an article of wearing apparel as a layer between
Colorists, available from theAATCC, P. O. Box 12215, ResearchTriangle Park, NC
an outer shell and an inner lining.
27709.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D3135 – 87 (2005)
3.11 laminatedfabric,n—a layered fabric structure wherein 5.1.2.1 If a fabric shrinks in drycleaning, for example, less
a face or outer fabric is joined to a continuous sheet material, than3.0 %inlengthbutatthesametimegrowslessthan2.5 %
such as a polyurethane foam, in such a way that the identity of in width or vice versa, it shall be assigned to Class I.
the continuous sheet material is retained, either by the flame 5.1.2.2 If the fabric grows in drycleaning more than 2.5 %
method or by an adhesive, and this in turn normally but not in either length or width, it shall be considered unacceptable,
always, is joined on the back with a backing fabric such as regardless of the shrinkage or growth in the other direction.
tricot. 5.2 After Laundering:
5.2.1 Theaverageshrinkageoffourtestspecimensafterfive
3.12 open-face fabric, n—a face or shell fabric constructed
cycles of laundering without hand ironing if the fabric is
with specifically designed open areas to show the substrate
intended for use in a garment which does not require ironing or
when joined to another material.
after hand ironing following the fifth laundering cycle only if
3.13 puckering, n—in bonded, fused, or laminated fabric, a
the fabric is intended for use in a garment which requires
wavy, three-dimensional effect typified by closely spaced
ironing,shallbeusedtoassigntheobservedfabricshrinkageto
wrinkles, on either the face fabric or the backing fabric or both.
Class I, Class II, or Class III as listed in 5.1.1.
3.13.1 Discussion—Puckering may be due to: (1) differen-
5.2.1.1 If the shrinkage of a fabric falls within the allowable
tial shrinkage of the component layers, (2) differences in
limits for width for a specific class but does not meet the limits
tension when the component layers are combined, or ( 3)
for length or vice versa, the fabric shall be assigned to the
selective lineal delamination.
laundering shrinkage class in which the higher shrinkage
3.14 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
occurs.
specification, refer to Terminology D123.
5.2.2 Growth of the fabric shall not exceed 2.5 % in the
length direction and 2.5 % in the width direction after five
4. Delamination
cycles of laundering without hand ironing if the fabric is
4.1 After Drycleaning—When the front and the back of the
intended for use in a garment that does not require ironing or
bonded, fused, or laminated fabric are mounted without ten- after hand ironing following the fifth laundering cycle only if
sioning or stretching and viewed separately as directed in
the fabric is intended for use in a garment that requires ironing.
Sections 7.2 and 7.3 on Evaluation in AATCC Method 124, 5.2.2.1 If a fabric shrinks in laundering, for example, less
there shall be no visible evidence of separation of the compo-
than3.0 %inlengthbutatthesametimegrowslessthan2.5 %
nent layers after three cycles in a coin-operated drycleaning in width or vice versa, it shall be assigned to Class I.
machine, without steam pressing.
5.2.2.2 If the fabric grows in laundering more than 2.5 % in
either length or width, it shall be considered unacceptable,
4.2 After Laundering—When the front and the back of the
regardless of the shrinkage or growth in the other direction.
bonded, fused, or laminated fabric are mounted without ten-
sioning or stretching and viewed separately as directed in
NOTE 1—Normally, the dimensional stability of a garment is better in
Sections 7.2 and 7.3 on Evaluation in AATCC Method 124,
laundering or drycleaning than the principal fabric from which it was
there shall be no visible evidence of separation of the compo-
made due to the stabilizing effect of sewing and seaming and to the
nent layers after five cycles of laundering and five cycles of preshrinkage obtained in garment pressing.
NOTE 2—Class shrinkage limits are provided because fabrics intended
drying.
for various end uses do not all require the same shrinkage control to
perform in a satisfactory manner after refurbishment.
5. Shrinkage (or Growth)
NOTE 3—If the fabric is intended for over-the-counter sales for home
5.1 After Drycleaning: sewing, the fabric should be accompanied by instructions to prestabilize
the fabric by using one cycle of the appropriate refurbishment described
5.1.1 The average shrinkage of four test specimens after
in 9.1 or 9.2 before c
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