ASTM D3135-87(2000)
(Specification)Standard Specification for Performance of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
Standard Specification for Performance of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
SCOPE
1.1 This specification covers requirements for performance properties of bonded, fused, and laminated apparel fabrics.
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Designation: D 3135 – 87 (Reapproved 2000)
Standard Specification for
Performance of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel
Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3135; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3.3 bond strength, n— of bonded, fused, or laminated
fabrics, the tensile force expressed in ounces per 1 in. (25 mm)
1.1 This specification covers requirements for performance
of width, required to separate the component layers under
properties of bonded, fused, and laminated apparel fabrics.
specified conditions.
2. Referenced Documents
3.4 bubble—see preferred term blister.
3.5 closed-face fabric, n—a face or shell fabric of closed
2.1 ASTM Standards:
construction so that no open-face areas appear.
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
3.6 crack mark, n—Crack marks are usually the result of
D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated
combining tight fabric constructions at least one of which does
Apparel Fabrics
not have sufficient residual stretch to allow the combined
D 3512 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-
fabrics to be bent in an arc without producing crack marks on
lated Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble
the concave side of the arc. Crack marks also occur when
Pilling Tester Method
bonded fabrics are allowed to remain in a creased or wrinkled
2.2 AATCC Standards:
state before full adhesive cure has taken place. Other causes
AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (1954), Gray Scale for
include the use of excessive adhesive in bonding, or excessive
Color Change
foam thicknesses and excessive foam collapse in flame lami-
AATCC Test Method 124, Appearance of Durable-Press
nation.sharp break or crease in the surface contour of either the
Fabrics After Repeated Home Launderings
facefabricorthebackingfabricthatbecomesevidentwhenthe
3. Terminology
bonded or laminated composite is rolled, bent, draped, or
folded.
3.1 blister, n—in bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, a
3.6.1 Discussion—Crack marks are usually the result of
bulge, swelling, or similar surface condition on either the face
combining tight fabric constructions at least one of which does
fabric or the backing fabric characterized by the fabric being
not have sufficient residual stretch to allow the combined
raised from the plane of the underlying component over a
fabrics to be bent in an arc without producing crack marks on
limited area to give a puffy appearance.
the concave side of the arc. Crack marks also occur when
3.2 bonded fabric, n—a layered fabric structure wherein a
bonded fabrics are allowed to remain in a creased or wrinkled
face or shell fabric is joined to a backing fabric, such as tricot,
state before full adhesive cure has taken place. Other causes
withanadhesivethatdoesnotsignificantlyaddtothethickness
include the use of excessive adhesive in bonding, or excessive
of the combined fabrics.
foam thicknesses and excessive foam collapse in flame lami-
3.2.1 Discussion—In this context, a thin layer of foam is
nation.
considered an adhesive when the cell structure is completely
3.7 foam tear, n—a condition wherein the foam portion of a
collapsed by a flame.
laminated fabric ruptures prior to the failure of the bond.
3.8 fused fabric, n—a type of bonded fabric made by
This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 on
adhering a fusible fabric to another fabric, such as for use as an
Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
interlining.
Current edition approved Oct. 1, 1987. Published December 1987. Originally
e1
3.9 fusible fabric, n—a utilitarian fabric which has a ther-
published as D 3135 – 72. Last previous edition D 3135 – 72 (1978)
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01. moplastic adhesive applied to one side, usually in a pattern of
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.02.
dots,sothatthesurfacecanbebondedtoanotherfabricsurface
Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and
by the use of heat and pressure.
Colorists, available from theAATCC, P. O. Box 12215, ResearchTriangle Park, NC
27709.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 3135
3.10 interlining, n—any textile which is intended for incor- 5.1.2 Growth of the fabric shall not exceed 2.5 % in the
poration into an article of wearing apparel as a layer between length direction or 2.5 % in the width direction after three
cycles in a coin-operated drycleaning machine, followed by
an outer shell and an inner lining.
one steam pressing.
3.11 laminatedfabric,n—a layered fabric structure wherein
5.1.2.1 If a fabric shrinks in drycleaning, for example, less
a face or outer fabric is joined to a continuous sheet material,
than3.0 %inlengthbutatthesametimegrowslessthan2.5 %
such as a polyurethane foam, in such a way that the identity of
in width or vice versa, it shall be assigned to Class I.
the continuous sheet material is retained, either by the flame
5.1.2.2 If the fabric grows in drycleaning more than 2.5 %
method or by an adhesive, and this in turn normally but not
in either length or width, it shall be considered unacceptable,
always, is joined on the back with a backing fabric such as
regardless of the shrinkage or growth in the other direction.
tricot.
5.2 After Laundering:
3.12 open-face fabric, n—a face or shell fabric constructed
5.2.1 Theaverageshrinkageoffourtestspecimensafterfive
with specifically designed open areas to show the substrate
cycles of laundering without hand ironing if the fabric is
when joined to another material.
intended for use in a garment which does not require ironing or
3.13 puckering, n—in bonded, fused, or laminated fabric, a
after hand ironing following the fifth laundering cycle only if
wavy, three-dimensional effect typified by closely spaced
the fabric is intended for use in a garment which requires
wrinkles, on either the face fabric or the backing fabric or both.
ironing,shallbeusedtoassigntheobservedfabricshrinkageto
3.13.1 Discussion—Puckering may be due to: (1) differen- Class I, Class II, or Class III as listed in 5.1.1.
tial shrinkage of the component layers, (2) differences in 5.2.1.1 If the shrinkage of a fabric falls within the allowable
tension when the component layers are combined, or ( 3) limits for width for a specific class but does not meet the limits
selective lineal delamination. for length or vice versa, the fabric shall be assigned to the
laundering shrinkage class in which the higher shrinkage
3.14 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
occurs.
specification, refer to Terminology D 123.
5.2.2 Growth of the fabric shall not exceed 2.5 % in the
length direction and 2.5 % in the width direction after five
4. Delamination
cycles of laundering without hand ironing if the fabric is
4.1 After Drycleaning—When the front and the back of the
intended for use in a garment that does not require ironing or
bonded, fused, or laminated fabric are mounted without ten-
after hand ironing following the fifth laundering cycle only if
sioning or stretching and viewed separately as directed in
the fabric is intended for use in a garment that requires ironing.
Sections 7.2 and 7.3 on Evaluation in AATCC Method 124,
5.2.2.1 If a fabric shrinks in laundering, for example, less
there shall be no visible evidence of separation of the compo-
than3.0 %inlengthbutatthesametimegrowslessthan2.5 %
nent layers after three cycles in a coin-operated drycleaning
in width or vice versa, it shall be assigned to Class I.
machine, without steam pressing.
5.2.2.2 If the fabric grows in laundering more than 2.5 % in
4.2 After Laundering—When the front and the back of the
either length or width, it shall be considered unacceptable,
bonded, fused, or laminated fabric are mounted without ten- regardless of the shrinkage or growth in the other direction.
sioning or stretching and viewed separately as directed in
NOTE 1—Normally, the dimensional stability of a garment is better in
Sections 7.2 and 7.3 on Evaluation in AATCC Method 124,
laundering or drycleaning than the principal fabric from which it was
there shall be no visible evidence of separation of the compo-
made due to the stabilizing effect of sewing and seaming and to the
nent layers after five cycles of laundering and five cycles of
preshrinkage obtained in garment pressing.
drying.
NOTE 2—Class shrinkage limits are provided because fabrics intended
for various end uses do not all require the same shrinkage control to
perform in a satisfactory manner after refurbishment.
5. Shrinkage (or Growth)
NOTE 3—If the fabric is intended for over-the-counter sales for home
5.1 After Drycleaning:
sewing, the fabric should be accompanied by instructions to prestabilize
the fabric by using one cy
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