ASTM D3990-12(2020)

Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

SCOPE
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related material are given under the most frequently used terms; synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.  
1.2 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 30-Jun-2020
• ICS: 01.040.59 - Textile and leather technology (Vocabularies)
• ICS: 59.080.30 - Textile fabrics
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.59 - Fabric Physical Test Methods A

Standards Content (Sample)

This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D3990 − 12 (Reapproved 2020)
Standard Terminology Relating to
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Fabric Defects
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3990; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
DISCUSSION—The term “barré” is sometimes used as a synonym for
1. Scope
“warp streaks” in warp knit and woven fabrics. Barré can be caused by
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit
physical, optical, or dye differences in the yarns, geometric differences
fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related
in the fabric structure, or by any combination of these differences.
material are given under the most frequently used terms;
synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.
1.2 This international standard was developed in accor-
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
beaded selvage—See loopy selvage.
3. Terminology
bias—See skew.
birdseye, n—in knitted fabrics, an unintentional tuck stitch.
3.1 Definitions:
abrasion mark, n—an area damaged by friction. (Syn. chafe
blanket mark—See sanforizing mark.
mark)
blotch, n—an offcolored area of any shape caused by grease or
oil. (Syn. oil spot)
apron mark—See decating mark.
baggy cloth—See wavy cloth.
bow, n—a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or
baggy selvage—See slack selvage.
knitting courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to
balling up—See fuzz ball.
the selvages and form one or more arcs across the width of
barré, n—anunintentional,repetitivevisualpatternofcontinu-
fabric. (See also double bow)
ous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven
bow, double—See double bow.
fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric. (Compare
box mark—See shuttle mark.
warp streak, mixed filling)
break-out—See smash.
broken end, n—in woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction
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due to yarn breakage.
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,
broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or
General.
more filaments. (Syn. strip back, skin back)
Current edition approved July 1, 2020. Published July 2020. Originally approved
as an appendix to Terminology D123 in 1964. Redesignated D3990 in 1981. Last
broken pick, n— in woven fabrics,adiscontinuityinthefilling
previous edition approved in 2016 as D3990 – 12(2016). DOI: 10.1520/D3990-
12R20. direction caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
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D3990 − 12 (2020)
broken selvage—See cut selvage. crease, n—a fabric defect evidenced by a break, line, or mark
generally caused by a sharp fold. (Syn. mill wrinkle)
bruise, n—in fabrics, an area that has been subjected to impact
or pressure, that differs from the adjacent normal fabric.
(Syn. pressure mark.)
bunch—See slug.
chafe mark—See abrasion mark.
clip mark, n—a visual deformation near the edge of a fabric
parallel with the lengthwise direction caused by pressure
exerted by a clasping device on a clip tenter frame. (See also
pin mark.)
coarse end, n—a larger than normal diameter warp end. (Syn.
heavy end) (Compare fine end)
coarse filling—See coarse pick.
coarse pick, n— in woven fabrics, one or more picks of larger
crease mark, n—a visible deformation left in a fabric after a
diameterthanthenormalfillingyarninthefabric.(Syn.thick
creasehasbeenincompletelyremovedduringfabricprocess-
filling)
ing.
cockles, n—in yarns, irregular thick, uneven, lumps.
crocking, n—a transfer of color from the surface of a colored
fabric to an adjacent area of the same fabric or to another
color bleeding, n—the loss of color from a dyed fabric when
surface principally by rubbing action. (Compare color stain-
immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid
ing)
medium, with consequent coloring of the liquid medium.
(Compare color staining.)
crowsfeet, n—in fabrics, fine wrinkle
...