ASTM F1774-13
(Specification)Standard Specification for Climbing and Mountaineering Carabiners
Standard Specification for Climbing and Mountaineering Carabiners
ABSTRACT
This specification covers six mechanical tests and the corresponding minimum performance and design requirements for steel or aluminum alloy carabiners fabricated specifically for the sports of climbing and mountaineering. Two different types of carabiners are defined, namely, non-locking carabiners and locking carabiners. The mechanical tests to which the representative carabiners shall be evaluated on are gate function during body weight test, major axis gate closed 70 % force test, locking mechanism test, major axis gate closed ultimate strength test, major axis gate open ultimate strength test, and minor axis gate closed ultimate strength test. These tests are destructive in nature. Hence, carabiners subjected to any of these tests shall not be used in any way after testing, except in evaluating the results of such testing.
SCOPE
1.1 This specification covers six mechanical tests and the minimum performance requirements for carabiners designed specifically for the sports of climbing and mountaineering.
1.2 Two different types of carabiners are defined in this standard, non-locking carabiners and locking carabiners.
1.3 Tests contained herein are destructive in nature. Carabiners subjected to any of these tests shall not be used in any way after testing except in evaluating the results of such testing.
1.4 This specification does not imply approval of any method of use of climbing and mountaineering carabiners. In addition, the test load values contained herein are not to be interpreted as the forces which a climbing and mountaineering carabiner may be subjected to, or expected to sustain in actual field use.
1.5 This specification is limited to carabiners made of steel or aluminum alloys only.
1.6 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the standard.
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Designation:F1774 −13
Standard Specification for
1
Climbing and Mountaineering Carabiners
This standard is issued under the fixed designation F1774; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision.Anumber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
3.2.1 carabiner, n—a self-closing gated, load-bearing, con-
1.1 This specification covers six mechanical tests and the
nective device. Some carabiner models may have cocking or
minimum performance requirements for carabiners designed
blockingdevices,thatwhenactivated,overridetheself-closing
specifically for the sports of climbing and mountaineering.
features.
1.2 Two different types of carabiners are defined in this
3.2.2 durably affıxed, adj—themannerofattachinginforma-
standard, non-locking carabiners and locking carabiners.
tion directly to the product which endures for the life of the
1.3 Tests contained herein are destructive in nature. Cara-
product.
biners subjected to any of these tests shall not be used in any
3.2.3 failure, n—an arbitrary point beyond which a material
way after testing except in evaluating the results of such
orproductceasestobefunctionallycapableofitsintendeduse.
testing.
In this application, the point at which some part of the
1.4 This specification does not imply approval of any
carabiner physically breaks or distorts to an extent that the test
method of use of climbing and mountaineering carabiners. In
members are released.
addition, the test load values contained herein are not to be
3.2.4 locking carabiner, n—a carabiner with a mechanism
interpreted as the forces which a climbing and mountaineering
that reduces the possibility of a gate being opened inadver-
carabiner may be subjected to, or expected to sustain in actual
tently. A locking mechanism requires at least two different
field use.
consecutive manual actions to open the gate.
1.5 This specification is limited to carabiners made of steel
3.2.5 nonlocking carabiner, n—any carabiner that does not
or aluminum alloys only.
have a mechanism that reduces the possibility of a gate being
1.6 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the
opened inadvertently.
standard.
3.2.6 normal body weight, n—a standardized weight that
representsatypicalclimber,definedasFunctionTestForceNo.
2. Referenced Documents
1.
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
3.2.7 ultimate strength, n—themaximumforcesustainedby
E4Practices for Force Verification of Testing Machines
a carabiner during an ultimate force test, prior to its failure.
F1772Specification for Harnesses for Rescue, Safety, and
Sport Activities
4. Requirements
2.2 Other Standard:
4.1 Product information shall include the following items:
EN566:1994Slings [preliminary]
4.1.1 Manufacturer’s or Distributor’s Name or Logo—A
3. Terminology clear indication as to who is responsible for the primary
manufacture or distribution, or both, of the product.
3.1 Definitions—Terms defined in Terminology F1772 shall
4.1.2 Major Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength—A clear
be applicable to this specification.
indication as to the major axis gate closed strength by either
symbol or pictorial representation.
1
This specification is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee F32 on Search 4.1.3 Minor Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength—A clear
and Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment,
indication as to the minor axis gate closed ultimate strength by
Testing, and Maintenance.
either symbol or pictorial representation.
Current edition approved Dec. 15, 2013. Published February 2014. Originally
4.1.4 Major Axis Gate Open Ultimate Strength—A clear
approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 2005 as F1774–99(2005).
DOI: 10.1520/F1774-13.
indication as to the major axis gate open ultimate strength by
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
either symbol or pictorial representation.
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
4.1.5 Lot Number—A manufacturer’s or distributor’s lot
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
the ASTM website. number.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
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F1774−13
4.1.6 Either symbol or pictorial representation to read the 9. Sampling
manufacturer’s or distributor’s instructions.
9.1 Number of Tests—The number of samples for testing
4.2 Lettering,symbols,andpictorialrepresentationsshallbe
will be specified by the manufacturer’s quality assurance
durably affixed to the cara
...
This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation: F1774 − 99 (Reapproved 2005) F1774 − 13
Standard Specification for
1
Climbing and Mountaineering Carabiners
This standard is issued under the fixed designation F1774; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This specification covers six mechanical tests and the minimum performance requirements for carabiners designed
specifically for the sports of climbing and mountaineering.
1.2 Two different types of carabiners are defined in this standard, non-locking carabiners and locking carabiners.
1.3 Tests contained herein are destructive in nature. Carabiners subjected to any of these tests shall not be used in any way after
testing except in evaluating the results of such testing.
1.4 This specification does not imply approval of any method of use of climbing and mountaineering carabiners. In addition,
the test load values contained herein are not to be interpreted as the forces which a climbing and mountaineering carabiner may
be subjected to, or expected to sustain in actual field use.
1.5 This specification is limited to carabiners made of steel or aluminum alloys only.
1.6 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the standard.
2. Referenced Documents
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
E4 Practices for Force Verification of Testing Machines
F1772 Specification for Harnesses for Rescue, Safety, and Sport Activities
3
F1775 Specification for Labeling of Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment (Withdrawn 2009)
2.2 Other Standard:
EN 566:1994 Slings [preliminary]
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions—Terms defined in Terminology F1772 shall be applicable to this specification.
3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
3.2.1 carabiner, n—a self-closing gated, load-bearing, connective device. Some carabiner models may have cocking or blocking
devices, that when activated, override the self-closing features.
3.2.2 durably affıxed, adj—the manner of attaching information directly to the product which endures for the life of the product.
3.2.3 failure, n—an arbitrary point beyond which a material or product ceases to be functionally capable of its intended use. In
this application, the point at which some part of the carabiner physically breaks or distorts to an extent that the test members are
released.
3.2.4 locking carabiner, n—a carabiner with a mechanism that reduces the possibility of a gate being opened inadvertently. A
locking mechanism requires at least two different consecutive manual actions to open the gate.
3.2.5 nonlocking carabiner, n—any carabiner that does not have a mechanism that reduces the possibility of a gate being opened
inadvertently.
3.2.6 normal body weight, n—a standardized weight that represents a typical climber, defined as Function Test Force No. 1.
3.2.7 ultimate strength, n—the maximum force sustained by a carabiner during an ultimate force test, prior to its failure.
1
This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee F32 on Search and Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment, Testing,
and Maintenance.
Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2005Dec. 15, 2013. Published October 2005February 2014. Originally approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 19992005
as F1774 – 99.F1774 – 99 (2005). DOI: 10.1520/F1774-99R05.10.1520/F1774-13.
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
1
---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
F1774 − 13
4. Requirements
4.1 Product information shall include the following items:
4.1.1 Manufacturer’s or Distributor’s Name or Logo—A clear indication as to who is responsible for the primary manufacture
or distribution, or both, of the product.
4.1.2 Major Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength—A clear indication as to the major axis gate closed strength by either symbol
or pictorial representation.
4.1.3 Minor Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength—A clear indication as to the minor axis gate closed ultimate strength by either
symbol or pictorial representation.
4.1.4 Major Axis Gate Open Ultimate
...
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