ASTM F1774-99(2005)
(Specification)Standard Specification for Climbing and Mountaineering Carabiners
Standard Specification for Climbing and Mountaineering Carabiners
ABSTRACT
This specification covers six mechanical tests and the corresponding minimum performance and design requirements for steel or aluminum alloy carabiners fabricated specifically for the sports of climbing and mountaineering. Two different types of carabiners are defined, namely, non-locking carabiners and locking carabiners. The mechanical tests to which the representative carabiners shall be evaluated on are gate function during body weight test, major axis gate closed 70 % force test, locking mechanism test, major axis gate closed ultimate strength test, major axis gate open ultimate strength test, and minor axis gate closed ultimate strength test. These tests are destructive in nature. Hence, carabiners subjected to any of these tests shall not be used in any way after testing, except in evaluating the results of such testing.
SCOPE
1.1 This specification covers six mechanical tests and the minimum performance requirements for carabiners designed specifically for the sports of climbing and mountaineering.
1.2 Two different types of carabiners are defined in this standard, non-locking carabiners and locking carabiners.
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the standard.
1.4 Tests contained herein are destructive in nature. Carabiners subjected to any of these tests shall not be used in any way after testing except in evaluating the results of such testing.
1.5 this specification does not imply approval of any method of use of climbing and mountaineering carabiners. In addition, the test load values contained herein are not to be interpreted as the forces which a climbing and mountaineering carabiner may be subjected to, or expected to sustain in actual field use.
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Standards Content (Sample)
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
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Designation:F1774 −99(Reapproved2005)
Standard Specification for
Climbing and Mountaineering Carabiners
This standard is issued under the fixed designation F1774; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision.Anumber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3. Terminology
1.1 This specification covers six mechanical tests and the 3.1 Definitions—Terms defined in Terminology F1772 shall
minimum performance requirements for carabiners designed
be applicable to this specification.
specifically for the sports of climbing and mountaineering.
3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
1.2 Two different types of carabiners are defined in this
3.2.1 carabiner, n—a self-closing gated, load-bearing, con-
standard, non-locking carabiners and locking carabiners.
nective device. Some carabiner models may have cocking or
blockingdevices,thatwhenactivated,overridetheself-closing
1.3 Tests contained herein are destructive in nature. Cara-
features.
biners subjected to any of these tests shall not be used in any
way after testing except in evaluating the results of such
3.2.2 failure, n—an arbitrary point beyond which a material
testing.
orproductceasestobefunctionallycapableofitsintendeduse.
In this application, the point at which some part of the
1.4 This specification does not imply approval of any
carabiner physically breaks or distorts to an extent that the test
method of use of climbing and mountaineering carabiners. In
members are released.
addition, the test load values contained herein are not to be
interpreted as the forces which a climbing and mountaineering
3.2.3 locking carabiner, n—a carabiner with a mechanism
carabiner may be subjected to, or expected to sustain in actual
that reduces the possibility of a gate being opened inadver-
field use.
tently. A locking mechanism requires at least two different
consecutive manual actions to open the gate.
1.5 This specification is limited to carabiners made of steel
or aluminum alloys only.
3.2.4 nonlocking carabiner, n—any carabiner that does not
have a mechanism that reduces the possibility of a gate being
1.6 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the
opened inadvertently.
standard.
3.2.5 normal body weight, n—a standardized weight that
2. Referenced Documents
representsatypicalclimber,definedasFunctionTestForceNo.
1.
2.1 ASTM Standards:
E4Practices for Force Verification of Testing Machines
3.2.6 ultimate strength, n—themaximumforcesustainedby
F1772Specification for Harnesses for Rescue, Safety, and
a carabiner during an ultimate force test, prior to its failure.
Sport Activities
F1775Specification for Labeling of Climbing and Moun-
4. Significance and Use
taineering Equipment (Withdrawn 2009)
4.1 Gate Function During Body Weight Test—This test
2.2 Other Standard:
simulates a climber’s body weight of Function Test Force No.
EN566:1994Slings [preliminary]
1 and verifies that the gate functions as intended under body
weight force.
4.2 Major Axis Gate Closed 70 % Force Test—This test
This specification is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee F32 on Search
and Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment, verifies that the gate functions as originally intended after
Testing, and Maintenance.
Function Test Force No. 2 has been applied and released.
Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2005. Published October 2005. Originally
approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 1999 as F1774–99. DOI:
4.3 Locking Mechanism Test—This test verifies that the
10.1520/F1774-99R05.
locking mechanism keeps the gate in the locked position
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
between forces of 0 kN and Function Force Test No. 3.
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
4.4 Major Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength Test—This
the ASTM website.
testisintendedtoshowtheforcerequiredtophysicallyfailthe
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
www.astm.org. carabiner.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
F1774−99(2005)
4.5 MajorAxis Gate Open Ultimate Strength Test—Thistest hardness,Cscale60.Themeansurfaceroughness,R ,mustnot
a
simulates a potential inadvertent use of a carabiner. It is exceed 0.8 µm and the peak to valley height, R , must not
max
intended to show the force required to physically fail the exceed 6.3 µm. The fixture should be designed in such a way
carabiner. thatthepinsdonotrotateandthatthecarabinerisfreetolocate
itself on the pins when the force is applied. See Figs. 1 and 2.
4.6 Minor Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength Test—This
6.2.2 Molybdenum-Based Grease.
test simulates a potential inadvertent use of a carabiner. It is
intended to show the force required to fail physically the 6.3 Test Conditions—The ambient temperature shall be
carabiner along the minor axis. between 15 and 23°C.
5. Responsibility for Quality Assurance
7. Hazards
5.1 Quality control is solely the responsibility of the manu-
7.1 Carabiners may disengage or eject parts from the test
facturer or purchaser, or both, and is not addressed by this
fixture. Use a safety screen and wear safety glasses while
specification.
testing. Do not perform this test alone.
6. Apparatus and Condition
8. Sampling
6.1 Tensile Tester, capable of calibration in accordance with
8.1 Number of Tests—The number of samples for testing
Practices E4 to the ultimate strength of all carabiners tested.
will be specified by the manufacturer’s quality assurance
6.2 Test Fixtures and Supplies: program.Aminimum of five will be used, in sequence, for the
6.2.1 There are four total test pins required, two pins with gatefunctionduringbodyweight,majoraxisgateclosed70%,
6 60.05-mm radius and two pins with 5 60.05-mm radius. and major axis gate closed ultimate strength tests.Aminimum
Pinsmustbealloysteelandheat-treatedtominimumRockwell of five will be used for the major axis gage open ultimate
FIG. 1Major Axis Test Set-Up
F1774−99(2005)
NOTE 1—Dimensions in millimetres.
FIG. 2Minor Axis Tests
F1774−99(2005)
strengthtest.Aminimumoffivewillbeusedfortheminoraxis major axis gate open minimum ultimate strength for locking
gate closed ultimate strength test. carabiners listed in Table 1.
9.6 Minor Axis Gate Closed Ultimate Strength Test:
9. Performance Specifications
9.6.1 Each of the nonlocking carabiners subjected to this
9.1 Gate Function During Body Weight Test:
test shall have an ultimate strength equal to or greater than the
9.1.1 Function Test Force No. 1 will be used for this test.
minoraxisgateclosedminimumultimatestrengthfornonlock-
Each of the carabiners subjected to the body weight test shall
ing carabiners listed in Table 1.
show no evidence of distortion that impairs the designed
9.6.2 Each of the locking carabiners subjected to this test
function.
shall have an ultimate strength equal to or greater than the
9.1.2 While the body weight force is applied, the carabiner
minor axis gate closed minimum ultimate strength for locking
gateshallopenandcloseasdesignedandwiththesamequality
carabiners listed in Table 1.
and performance as before the test.
9.1.3 When a locking carabiner is locked while the body
10. Procedure
weightforceisapplied,thelockingmechanismmustbeableto
10.1 Gate Function During Body Weight Test:
be rotated to its unlocked position by hand after the force is
removed.
10.1.1 Grease the test pins where the carabiner comes in
contact with the pins.
9.2 Major Axis Gate Closed 70 Force Test—Function Test
10.1.2 Positionthecarabineronthe6-mmradiustestpinsas
Force No. 2 will be used for this test. Each of the carabiners
shown in Fig. 1. Position the test pins against the spine of the
subjected to the 70% force test shall show no evidence of
carabiner.Ifthecarabinerhasacaptiveslingthatisintendedto
distortion that impairs the designed function after the test is
be loaded directly, apply the test force directly to the sling by
conducted.Thelockingmechanismofalockingcarabinershall
oneofthe5-mmradiustestpinsinaccordancewithEN566.If
openandcloseasoriginallyintendedandwiththesamequality
the carabiner has provision for a semicaptive sling, apply the
and performance as before the test.
test force to a short sling by one of the 5-mm radius test pins.
9.3 Locking Mechanism Test—Function Test Force No. 3
10.1.3 Loadthecarabinertowithin2%oftheFunctionTest
will be used for this test. With the locking mechanism in the
Force No. 1, without going above it, at a rate of 10 65
locked position and an inward force of 50 N applied to the
mm/min.
center of the gate, the gate must not open as Function Test
10.1.4 Nonlocking Test—While maintaining the force, open
ForceNo.3isappliedtothemajoraxisofthecarabiner.When
and close the gate and check that gate functions as originall
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