ASTM D4965-96(2002)
(Terminology)Standard Terminology of Seams and Seam Finishes in Home Sewing
Standard Terminology of Seams and Seam Finishes in Home Sewing
SCOPE
1.1 This terminology provides a uniform, easily understood language for the definitions and descriptions of seams and seam finishes used in home sewing.
1.1.1 These seams and seam finishes may be produced on a conventional sewing machine or by hand.
1.1.2 These terms and definitions are not necessarily applicable to the apparel manufacturing industry.
1.2 This terminology provides a common base for use in the preparation of educational materials and pattern guide sheets for home sewing.
1.3 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropriate if equipment other than the conventional sewing machine is available.
1.4 For other terms associated with textiles, refer to Terminology D 123.
General Information
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Standards Content (Sample)
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
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Designation:D4965–96 (Reapproved 2002)
Standard Terminology of
Seams and Seam Finishes Used in Home Sewing
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4965; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This terminology provides a uniform, easily understood
language for the definitions and descriptions of seams and
seam finishes used in home sewing.
1.1.1 These seams and seam finishes may be produced on a
conventional sewing machine or by hand.
1.1.2 These terms and definitions are not necessarily appli-
cable to the apparel manufacturing industry.
1.2 This terminology provides a common base for use in the
preparation of educational materials and pattern guide sheets
FIG. 1 Bound Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric
for home sewing.
1.3 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropriate if
equipment other than the conventional sewing machine is
seam allowances may be placed together and treated as one, such as the
available.
armscye seam allowances of an unlined jacket or on a bound neckline.
1.4 For other terms associated with textiles, refer to Termi-
clean-finish seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in
nology D 123.
which the cut edge is folded under and the fold line is edge
stitched. (See Fig. 2.) (Syn. turned and stitched seam
2. Referenced Documents
finish.)
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textile Materials
DISCUSSION—Aclean-finish seam finish is made by (1) turning under
D 1353 Terminology of Basic Sewing Machine Stitches each cut edge of a plain seam allowance approximately 3 to 6 mm ( ⁄8
to ⁄4 in.) and (2) stitching close to the folded edge.Astabilizing line of
3. Terminology stitching 3 to 6 mm from a curved cut edge will facilitate turning before
stitching close to the fold.
3.1 Definitions:
complex seam, n—in home sewing, a seam made in two or
back side, n—in textile materials, the side of the material that
more steps. (Ant. plain seam.)
faces innermost in the completed product. (Ant. face side,
right side. Syn. wrong side.)
DISCUSSION—Complex seams have one or more stitching lines as part
of their construction and include double-welt seams, flat-felled seams,
bound seam-finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in
French seams, lapped seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tucked
which another material is used to enclose the cut edges of
seams, and welt seams. They do not include plain seams or seam
one or more seam allowances. (Compare Hong Kong seam
finishes or decorative additions to seams.
finish.) (See Fig. 1.)
double-welt seam, n—in home sewing, a complex seam
DISCUSSION—A bound seam-finish is made by (1) enclosing the cut
formed on the inside of the product, in which one trimmed
seam allowance edge(s) in another fabric and (2) machine stitching
seam allowance is enclosed and two rows of stitching are
through all thicknesses close to the edge of the binding. Material used
visible on the face side. (Compare welt seam. Syn. mock
may be strips of lightweight bias-cut woven fabric or lightweight knit
fabricsuchastricotornet.Iftapeorbindingisused,thewiderfoldside flat-felled seam.) (See Fig. 3.)
of the tape or binding is positioned underneath the seam allowance.
DISCUSSION—A double-welt seam is made like a welt seam except
Usually each seam allowance edge is enclosed individually; however,
that it has a second row of topstitching close to the original seamline.
The three rows of stitching visible on the back side are the original
seam line, the row of stitching through the outermost layer of the sewn
product and the wider of the seam allowances, and the row added near
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
the original seam line.
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.53 on Practices.
Current edition approved Nov. 10, 1995 and February 10, 1996. Published July
edge-stitched seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish
1996. Originally published as D 4965 – 89a. Last previous edition D 4965 – 95.
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01. in which machine stitching is placed close to the cut edge of
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D4965–96 (2002)
FIG. 2 Clean-Finish Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric
FIG. 5 Flat-Felled Seam from Face Side of Fabric
stitching rows visible on the face side. (Compare mock
French seam.) (See Fig. 6.)
DISCUSSION—A French seam is made by (1) placing two sections of
fabric with back sides together, (2) stitching a seam line 10 mm ( ⁄8in.)
from the cut edges, (3) pressing the seam open, (4) trimming the seam
allowance to 3 mm ( ⁄8 in.) if the fabric does not ravel easily, or to
slightly less than 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) if the fabric ravels easily, (5) clipping
or notching the curved seam allowances such that they respectively will
fit the larger or smaller area, against which they will be pressed, (6)
folding the face sides of the fabric together, (7) pressing again with the
stitched seamline exactly on the folded edge, and (8) stitching 6 mm
FIG. 3 Double-Welt Seam from Face Side of Fabric
from the folded edge. By using this procedure, the cut edges of the
trimmed seam allowance are enclosed completely. The two seam
allowances make a total of 15 mm ( ⁄8 in.), the standard seam allowance
each seam allowance. (Compare zigzagged seam finish.)
width. No stitching lines are visible from the face side. French seams
(See Fig. 4.)
are more appropriate for straight seams than curved seams.
DISCUSSION—An edge-stitched seam finish is made by straight
glued seam, n—in home sewing, a seam formed by the use of
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stitching approximately 3 to 6 mm ( ⁄8 to ⁄4 in.) from each cut edge of
an adhesive. (Compare sewn seam, stapled seam, ther-
each seam allowance.
mally bonded seam.)
face side, n—in textile materials, the side of the material that
DISCUSSION—Adhesive may be glue, heat-fusible web or powder, or
is outermost in the completed product. (Ant. back side,
hot glue.
wrong side. Syn. right side.)
hand-overcast seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish
flat-felled seam, n—in home sewing, a complex seam formed
in which hand stitches are sewn such that the thread wraps
on the outside of a product with cut edges enclosed and two
around the cut edges of each seam allowance. (See Fig. 7.)
rows of machine stitching visible from the face side. (See
Fig. 5(a) and (b).)
DISCUSSION—Ahand-overcase seam finish is made by using a needle
and thread to form stitches that are approximately 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) apart
DISCUSSION—Aflat-felled seam is made by (1) stitching a basic seam
1 1
and3to6mm( ⁄8 to ⁄4 in.) inside the cut edges of the seam allowance.
with the back sides together, (2) pressing both seam allowances to one
The cut edge of each seam allowance is wrapped by the thread that
side, (3) trimming the under seam allowance to approximately ⁄8 in. (3
passes over the edge.
mm), (4) turning under the cut edge of the upper seam allowance, and
(5) topstitching close to the fold.
Hong Kong seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in
which a binding fabric is used to encase the cut edge of each
French seam, n—in home sewing, a complex seam formed on
seam allowance separately and in which the binding fabric
the inside of a product with both cut edges enclosed and no
FIG. 4 Edge-Stitched Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric FIG. 6 French Seam from Back Side of Fabric
D4965–96 (2002)
FIG. 7 Hand-Overcast Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric
(a) (d)
FIG. 9 Lapped Seam for Leather or Nonwoven Fabric from Face
has one cut edge enclosed and the other cut edge exposed. Side of Material
(Compare bound seam finish.) (See Fig. 8.)
over the bottom section, butting the cut edge to the marked seamline
DISCUSSION—A Hong Kong seam finish is made by (1) selecting a
beneath, and (4) gluing in place and topstitching with one or two rows
strip of light weight bias-cut woven fabric, lightweight knit such as
of stitching. Both gluing and topstitching may be used. This seam is
tricot or tulle, or commercial bias tape pressed open (25 mm (1 in.)
used on leather, nonwoven leather-like material, and vinyl where an
wide), (2) placing the bias strip against a seam allowance, face sides
exposed cut edge is not a concern.
together and cut edges even, (3) stitching 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) from the cut
edges, (4) pressing the binding away from the seam and over the cut
lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric, n—in home
edge toward the underside of the seam allowance, and (6) stitching in
sewing, a complex seam formed on the inside of the product
the previously formed stitching line on the face side of the seam
with neither raw cut edge enclosed, and having one visible
allowance, thus securing the under layer of the folded binding to the
line of topstitching on the face side and a small fold formed
under side of the seam allowance (sometimes called“ stitch-in-the-
by the topstitching. (Compare tucked seam.) (See Fig. 10.)
ditch”). The excess binding fabric may be trimmed close to the
stitching.
DISCUSSION—A lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric is made by
(1) folding under the seam allowance of the overlapping section along
inside seam, n—in home sewing, a seam having seam allow-
the 15-mm ( ⁄8-in.) seamline and pressing, then (2) working from the
ances located within the interior, or the underside, of the
right side and pinning the folded edge over the underlap section with
product. (Compare outside seam.)
the fold along the seamline, and (3) stitching close to the fold through
all layers. Basting before stitching may be needed.
DISCUSSION—Examples of inside seams include double-welt seams,
French seams, lapped seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tucked
material, n—in home sewing, a planar structure such as textile
seams, and welt seams.
fabric, plastic film, or leather.
joining line, n—See seam.
DISCUSSION—“Materials” used may include fabric, fur, leather and
lapped seam,— except the topstitching is farther from the fold
plastic film. Joining methods for seams may vary.
1 3
than that of a lapped seam 6 to 10 mm ( ⁄4 to ⁄8 in.).
turned and stitched seam finish, n—See clean finished seam mock flat-felled seam, n—See double-welt seam.
mock French seam, n—in home sewing, a complex seam
finish.
lapped seam for leather or nonwoven material, n—in home formed on the inside of the product with cut edges enclosed
and no stitching visible on the face side; similar in appear-
sewing, a complex seam formed on the outside of the
product, with neither cut edge enclosed and having one or ance to the French seam but constructed differently. (Com-
pare French seam.) (See Fig. 11.)
two rows of stitching and a cut edge visible from the outside.
(Compare lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric.) (See
DISCUSSION—Amock French seam is made by (1) placing two pieces
Fig. 9(a) and (d).) 5
of fabric with face sides together, (2) stitching on the 15-mm ( ⁄8-in.)
seamline, (3) trimming both seam allowances to 12 mm ( ⁄2 in.), (4)
DISCUSSION—A lapped seam for leather or nonwoven fabric is made
clipping or notching, as appropriate, 3 mm ( ⁄8 in.) on any curved edges
by (1) marking the corresponding seamlines on both pieces, (2)
trimming off the entire seam allowance (15 mm ( ⁄8 in.)) on the overlap
or top section, (3) lapping the cut edge of the trimmed overlap section
FIG. 10 Lapped Seam for Woven or Knitted Fabric from Face
FIG. 8 Hong Kong Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric Side of Fabric
D4965–96 (2002)
FIG. 13 b Plain Seam Reinforced from Back Side of Fabric
FIG. 11 Mock French Seam from Back Side of Fabric
so that curved seam allowances can fit the area against which they are
folded and pressed, (5) pressing open the seam, (6) then folding and
pressing each of the seam allowances 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) toward the other
and the seamline, bringing the folded edges together, and (7) stitching
the two seam allowances together 1.5 mm ( ⁄16 in.) from the folded
edges. Mock French seams are more appropriate for curved areas than
French seams.
outside seam, n—in home sewing, a seam in which the seam
allowance of the completed seam is visible from the face
FIG. 14 Pinked Seam Finish from Back Side of Material
side of the sewn product. (Compare inside seam.)
DISCUSSION—An example of an outside seam is the flat-felled seam.
plain seam, n—in home sewing,aseamformedbyasingleline
hand stitching the rolled edge close to the seam line within
of stitching. (Ant. complex seam.) (See Figs. 12 and 13.)
the seam allowance. (See Fig. 15.)
DISCUSSION—A plain seam joins two or more material sections;
DISCUSSION—A rolled seam finish is made by (1) trimming the seam
multiple layers of material may be treated as a single layer or section.
allowance to 10 mm ( ⁄8 in.), (2) rolling the seam allowances together
Cut edges of the seam allowance in a plain seam may or may not have
with thumb and forefinger to one side so that cut edges are enclosed,
a finish applied. Sometimes a plain seam is reinforced by machine
and (3) hand stitching the rolled edge close to the seam line within the
stitching again through both seam allowances together approximately 3
seam allowance.
1 1
to6mm( ⁄8 to ⁄4 in.) from the original seam line within the seam
seam, n—in home sewing, a line along which two or more
allowance. Reinforcement is appropriate for armscye, crotch, and
waistline seams. Reinforcement stitching may be along a section of a sections of a product have been joined. (Syn. joining line.
seam (as in a crotch seam) or along an entire seam (such as in a
See also glued seam, sewn seam, stapled seam, thermally
waistline seam). Seams that are reinforced are not pressed open.
bonded seam.)
pinked seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in
DISCUSSION—Materials used may include fabric, fur, leather, and
which a zigzagged or scalloped cut edge is produced.
plastic film. Joining methods for seams may vary.
(Compare stitched and pinked seam finish). (See Fig. 14).
sealant-sealed seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish
DISCUSSION—A pinked seam finish is made by trimming, with
in which a clear liquid seam-sealant is used as the treatment
pinking or scalloping shears, close to the cut edge of the seam
to prevent fraying.
allowance. This seam finish is more decorative than functional.
DISCUSSION—Seam-sealant is used sparingly along the cut edges of
right side, n—See face side.
seam allowances. The dried finish may not be visible or sensed by
rolled seam finish, n—in h
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