ASTM D5646-13(2018)
(Terminology)Standard Terminology Relating to Seams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing
Standard Terminology Relating to Seams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing
SCOPE
1.1 This terminology covers basic stitches made by sewing machines designed for home use and provides a uniform, easily understood language for the definitions and descriptions of seams and seam finishes used in home sewing.
1.1.1 These terms and definitions are not necessarily consistent with those used in the apparel or home furnishings manufacturing industries.
1.1.1.1 This terminology provides a common base for use in the preparation of educational materials and pattern guide sheets for home sewing.
1.1.1.2 Each stitch is identified with a definition, a discussion of how the stitch is formed and might be used and an illustration of one or more possible stitch patterns. This terminology does not include stitches made by sergers, hemmers, or by attachments to the home sewing machines.
1.1.1.3 These seams and seam finishes may be produced on a conventional sewing machine or by hand.
1.1.1.4 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropriate if equipment other than the conventional sewing machine is available.
1.1.1.5 Section 3, Terminology, is categorized into two subsections, specific to the two areas of specialization under this document: Relating to Seams and Relating to Stitches.
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.3 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
General Information
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Standards Content (Sample)
This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D5646 − 13 (Reapproved 2018)
Standard Terminology Relating to
Seams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D5646; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
1.1 This terminology covers basic stitches made by sewing
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
machinesdesignedforhomeuseandprovidesauniform,easily
D6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams
understood language for the definitions and descriptions of
2.2 Federal Standard:
seams and seam finishes used in home sewing.
Fed. Std. 751a, Stitches, Seams and Stitching
1.1.1 These terms and definitions are not necessarily con-
sistent with those used in the apparel or home furnishings 3. Terminology
manufacturing industries.
RELATING TO SEAMS
1.1.1.1 This terminology provides a common base for use in
the preparation of educational materials and pattern guide back side, n—in textile materials, the side of the material that
sheets for home sewing. faces innermost in the completed product. (Ant. face side,
right side. Syn. wrong side.)
1.1.1.2 Each stitch is identified with a definition, a discus-
sion of how the stitch is formed and might be used and an
bound seam-finish, n—in home sewing,aseamfinishinwhich
illustration of one or more possible stitch patterns. This
another material is used to enclose the cut edges of one or
terminology does not include stitches made by sergers,
more seam allowances. (Compare Hong Kong seam finish.)
hemmers, or by attachments to the home sewing machines.
(See Fig. 1.)
1.1.1.3 These seams and seam finishes may be produced on DISCUSSION—A bound seam-finish is made by (1) enclosing the cut
seam allowance edge(s) in another fabric and (2) machine stitching
a conventional sewing machine or by hand.
through all thicknesses close to the edge of the binding. Material used
1.1.1.4 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropri-
may be strips of lightweight bias-cut woven fabric or lightweight knit
ate if equipment other than the conventional sewing machine is
fabricsuchastricotornet.Iftapeorbindingisused,thewiderfoldside
available.
of the tape or binding is positioned underneath the seam allowance.
Usually each seam allowance edge is enclosed individually; however,
1.1.1.5 Section 3, Terminology, is categorized into two
seam allowances may be placed together and treated as one, such as the
subsections, specific to the two areas of specialization under
armscye seam allowances of an unlined jacket or on a bound neckline.
this document: Relating to Seams and Relating to Stitches.
clean-finish seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the
which the cut edge is folded under and the fold line is edge
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
stitched. (See Fig. 2.) (Syn. turned and stitched seam
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
finish.)
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
DISCUSSION—Aclean-finish seam finish is made by (1) turning under
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
each cut edge of a plain seam allowance approximately 3 to 6 mm ( ⁄8
to ⁄4 in.) and (2) stitching close to the folded edge.Astabilizing line of
1.3 This international standard was developed in accor-
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stitching 3 to 6 mm ( ⁄8 to ⁄4 in.) from a curved cut edge will facilitate
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
turning before stitching close to the fold.
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
complex seam, n— in home sewing, a seam made in two or
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical more steps. (Ant. plain seam.)
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles the ASTM website.
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies. Printed in 1965 as Federal Standard No. 751a, Stitches, Seams and Stitching,
Current edition approved July 1, 2018. Published August 2018. Originally General Services Administration, Washington, D.C. 20407. Available from Stan-
approved in 1994. Last previous edition approved in 2013 as D5646 – 13. DOI: dardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 Robbins Ave.,
10.1520/D5646-13R18. Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D5646 − 13 (2018)
FIG. 4 Edge-Stitched Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric
FIG. 1 Bound Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric
DISCUSSION—An edge-stitched seam finish is made by straight
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stitching approximately 3 to 6 mm ( ⁄8 to ⁄4 in.) from each cut edge of
each seam allowance.
face side, n—in textile materials, the side of the material that
is outermost in the completed product. (Ant. back side,
wrong side. Syn. right side.)
flat-felled seam, n—in home sewing, a complex seam formed
on the outside of a product with cut edges enclosed and two
rows of machine stitching visible from the face side. (See
FIG. 2 Clean-Finish Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric Fig. 5.)
DISCUSSION—Aflat-felled seam is made by (1) stitching a basic seam
with the back sides together, (2 ) pressing both seam allowances to one
side, (3) trimming the under seam allowance to approximately ⁄8 in. (3
DISCUSSION—Complex seams have one or more stitching lines as part
mm), (4) turning under the cut edge of the upper seam allowance, and
of their construction and include double-welt seams, flat-felled seams,
(5) topstitching close to the fold.
French seams, lapped seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tucked
seams, and welt seams. They do not include plain seams or seam
French seam, n— in home sewing, a complex seam formed on
finishes or decorative additions to seams.
the inside of a product with both cut edges enclosed and no
double-welt seam, n—in home sewing, a complex seam
stitching rows visible on the face side. (Compare mock
formed on the inside of the product, in which one trimmed
French seam.) (See Fig. 6.)
seam allowance is enclosed and two rows of stitching are
DISCUSSION—A French seam is made by (1) placing two sections of
visible on the face side. (Compare welt seam. Syn. mock fabric with back sides together, (2) stitching a seam line 10 mm ( ⁄8 in.)
from the cut edges, (3) pressing the seam open, (4) trimming the seam
flat-felled seam.) (See Fig. 3.)
allowance to 3 mm ( ⁄8 in.) if the fabric does not ravel easily, or to
DISCUSSION—A double-welt seam is made like a welt seam except
slightly less than 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) if the fabric ravels easily, (5) clipping
that it has a second row of topstitching close to the original seamline.
ornotchingthecurvedseamallowancessuchthattheyrespectivelywill
The three rows of stitching visible on the back side are the original
fit the larger or smaller area, against which they will be pressed, (6 )
seam line, the row of stitching through the outermost layer of the sewn
folding the face sides of the fabric together, (7) pressing again with the
product and the wider of the seam allowances, and the row added near
stitched seamline exactly on the folded edge, and (8) stitching 6 mm
the original seam line.
from the folded edge. By using this procedure, the cut edges of the
edge-stitched seam finish, n—in home sewing,aseamfinishin trimmed seam allowance are enclosed completely. The two seam
allowancesmakeatotalof15mm( ⁄8in.),thestandardseamallowance
which machine stitching is placed close to the cut edge of
width. No stitching lines are visible from the face side. French seams
each seam allowance. (Compare zigzagged seam finish.)
are more appropriate for straight seams than curved seams.
(See Fig. 4.)
FIG. 3 Double-Welt Seam from Face Side of Fabric FIG. 5 Flat-Felled Seam from Face Side of Fabric
D5646 − 13 (2018)
FIG. 8 Hong Kong Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric
FIG. 6 French Seam from Back Side of Fabric
DISCUSSION—Examples of inside seams include double-welt seams,
French seams, lapped seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tucked
glued seam, n—in home sewing, a seam formed by the use of
seams, and welt seams.
an adhesive. (Compare sewn seam, stapled seam, ther-
joining line, n—See seam.
mally bonded seam.)
lapped seam, n—a class of seams which requires that plies of
DISCUSSION—Adhesive may be glue, heat-fusible web or powder, or
hot glue. materials are lapped and seamed with one or more rows of
stitches.
hand-overcast seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish
DISCUSSION—Lappedseamsareidentifiedbytheletters,LS,asshown
in which hand stitches are sewn such that the thread wraps
in Practice D6193.
around the cut edges of each seam allowance. (See Fig. 7.)
turned and stitched seam finish, n—See clean finished seam
DISCUSSION—Ahand-overcase seam finish is made by using a needle
and thread to form stitches that are approximately 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) apart
finish.
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and3to6mm( ⁄8 to ⁄4 in.) inside the cut edges of the seam allowance.
lapped seam for leather or nonwoven material, n—in home
The cut edge of each seam allowance is wrapped by the thread that
sewing, a complex seam formed on the outside of the
passes over the edge.
product, with neither cut edge enclosed and having one or
Hong Kong seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in tworowsofstitchingandacutedgevisiblefromtheoutside.
(Compare lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric.) (See
which a binding fabric is used to encase the cut edge of each
Fig. 9(a) and (d).)
seam allowance separately and in which the binding fabric
DISCUSSION—A lapped seam for leather or nonwoven fabric is made
has one cut edge enclosed and the other cut edge exposed.
by (1) marking the corresponding seamlines on both pieces, (2)
(Compare bound seam finish.) (See Fig. 8.)
trimming off the entire seam allowance (15 mm ( ⁄8 in.)) on the overlap
DISCUSSION—A Hong Kong seam finish is made by (1 ) selecting a
or top section, (3) lapping the cut edge of the trimmed overlap section
strip of lightweight bias-cut woven fabric, lightweight knit such as
over the bottom section, butting the cut edge to the marked seamline
tricot or tulle, or commercial bias tape pressed open (25 mm (1 in.)
beneath, and (4) gluing in place and topstitching with one or two rows
wide), (2) placing the bias strip against a seam allowance, face sides
of stitching. Both gluing and topstitching may be used. This seam is
together and cut edges even, (3) stitching 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) from the cut
used on leather, nonwoven leather-like material, and vinyl where an
edges, (4) pressing the binding away from the seam and over the cut
exposed cut edge is not a concern.
edge toward the underside of the seam allowance, and (6) stitching in
the previously formed stitching line on the face side of the seam
lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric, n—in home sewing,
allowance, thus securing the under layer of the folded binding to the
a complex seam formed on the inside of the product with
under side of the seam allowance (sometimes called“ stitch-in-the-
neither raw cut edge enclosed, and having one visible line of
ditch”). The excess binding fabric may be trimmed close to the
topstitching on the face side and a small fold formed by the
stitching.
topstitching. (Compare tucked seam.) (See Fig. 10.)
inside seam, n— in home sewing, a seam having seam
allowances located within the interior, or the underside, of
the product. (Compare outside seam.)
(a) (d)
FIG. 9 Lapped Seam for Leather or Nonwoven Fabric from Face
FIG. 7 Hand-Overcast Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric Side of Material
D5646 − 13 (2018)
plain seam, n—in home sewing,aseamformedbyasingleline
of stitching. (Ant. complex seam.) (See Figs. 12 and 13.)
DISCUSSION—A plain seam joins two or more material sections;
multiple layers of material may be treated as a single layer or section.
Cut edges of the seam allowance in a plain seam may or may not have
a finish applied. Sometimes a plain seam is reinforced by machine
stitching again through both seam allowances together approximately 3
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to6mm( ⁄8 to ⁄4 in.) from the original seam line within the seam
allowance. Reinforcement is appropriate for armscye, crotch, and
waistline seams. Reinforcement stitching may be along a section of a
seam (as in a crotch seam) or along an entire seam (such as in a
waistline seam). Seams that are reinforced are not pressed open.
FIG. 10 Lapped Seam for Woven or Knitted Fabric from Face
pinked seam finish, n—in home sewing,aseamfinishinwhich
Side of Fabric
a zigzagged or scalloped cut edge is produced. (Compare
stitched and pinked seam finish). (See Fig. 14).
DISCUSSION—A pinked seam finish is made by trimming, with
DISCUSSION—A lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric is made by
pinking or scalloping shears, close to the cut edge of the seam
(1) folding under the seam allowance of the overlapping section along
5 allowance. This seam finish is more decorative than functional.
the 15-mm ( ⁄8-in.) seamline and pressing, then (2) working from the
right side and pinning the folded edge over the underlap section with
right side, n—See face side.
the fold along the seamline, and (3) stitching close to the fold through
rolled seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in which
all layers. Basting before stitching may be needed.
both cut edges are enclosed by rolling them to one side and
material, n—in home sewing, a planar structure such as textile
hand stitching the rolled edge close to the seam line within
fabric, plastic film, or leather.
the seam allowance. (See Fig. 15.)
DISCUSSION—“Materials” used may include fabric, fur, leather and
DISCUSSION—A rolled seam finish is made by (1) trimming the seam
plastic film. Joining methods for seams may vary. 3
allowance to 10 mm ( ⁄8 in.), (2) rolling the seam allowances together
with thumb and forefinger to one side so that cut edges are enclosed,
mock flat-felled seam, n—See double-welt seam.
and (3) hand stitching the rolled edge clo
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