ASTM F2436-05(2011)
(Test Method)Standard Test Method for Measuring the Performance of Synthetic Rope Rescue Belay Systems Using a Drop Test
Standard Test Method for Measuring the Performance of Synthetic Rope Rescue Belay Systems Using a Drop Test
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
The types of rope rescue systems to which this test method apply use a tensioned mainline and untensioned belay line. If a fall occurs because of a mainline system failure or misuse, considerable energy must be absorbed by the belay for a successful arrest. This drop test method simulates a “worst case” condition when systems are operated as designed, and is designed to help evaluate and compare the performance of various rope rescue belay systems under such conditions. (See Note 1.) The successful catching of a load does not imply that the tested system is suitable for any and all belaying. See X1.2.
Note 1—Higher forces may be encountered under some circumstances, such as the belay being operated with excessive slack.
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers drop test procedures to measure rope rescue belay system performance. It applies only to belay systems consisting of an untensioned rope connecting the load to an anchored belay device. This test method does not address other types of belays, such as self-belays or belays for lead climbing, nor does it test the rescuer's belaying ability.
1.2 This test method may be used to help measure a rescue belay system's performance under controlled drop test conditions, but it will not necessarily provide guidance as to which belay method is most suited to a particular application. Other considerations, such as ease of handling, performance on different types and diameters of rope, portability, versatility, system safety factor, cost, and automatic operation that do not require the positive action of the belayer may influence the selection of a belay system and are not dealt with in this test method. See X1.1.
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard.
1.4 This standard may involve hazardous materials, operations, and equipment. This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns associated with its use. It is the responsibility of whoever uses this standard to consult and establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. Additional precautions for this test method are given in 8.1 and 8.2.
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: F2436 − 05(Reapproved 2011)
Standard Test Method for
Measuring the Performance of Synthetic Rope Rescue Belay
Systems Using a Drop Test
This standard is issued under the fixed designation F2436; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope F2266 Specification for Masses Used in Testing Rescue
Systems and Components
1.1 This test method covers drop test procedures to measure
2.2 Other Document:
rope rescue belay system performance. It applies only to belay
CI 1801-98 Low Stretch and Static Kernmantle Life Safety
systems consisting of an untensioned rope connecting the load
Rope
to an anchored belay device.This test method does not address
other types of belays, such as self-belays or belays for lead
3. Terminology
climbing, nor does it test the rescuer’s belaying ability.
3.1 Definitions:
1.2 This test method may be used to help measure a rescue
3.1.1 belay, n—a secondary system, or the system
belay system’s performance under controlled drop test
components, used to arrest the load in the event of a failure in
conditions, but it will not necessarily provide guidance as to
the system.
which belay method is most suited to a particular application.
3.1.2 belay, v—in rope rescue systems, to operate an unten-
Otherconsiderations,suchaseaseofhandling,performanceon
sioned secondary rope (belay line) so that it may be taken in or
different types and diameters of rope, portability, versatility,
let out as the load is raised or lowered, and then hold the load
system safety factor, cost, and automatic operation that do not
in case of failure of the lifting line (working line) system.
require the positive action of the belayer may influence the
3.1.3 belay assembly, n—all elements of the belay system,
selection of a belay system and are not dealt with in this test
but not including the belay line and the belay anchor.
method. See X1.1.
3.1.4 belay assembly extension, L, (cm),n—the increase in
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as
length of the belay assembly, due to stretch or other extension,
standard.
measured from the anchorage to the farthest gripping point of
1.4 This standard may involve hazardous materials,
the belay assembly while statically tensioned, post-drop, ex-
operations, and equipment. This standard does not purport to
pressed in centimetres (cm).
address all of the safety concerns associated with its use. It is
3.1.5 belay device, n—that element of the belay system
the responsibility of whoever uses this standard to consult and
providingamoveableconnectionpointtothebelayline,which
establish appropriate safety and health practices and deter-
can secure the belay line when necessary.
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
3.1.6 belay line, n—in rope rescue systems, a secondary
Additionalprecautionsforthistestmethodaregivenin8.1and
8.2. line, generally untensioned, acting as a back-up to the lifting
line as distinguished from the lifting line (working line) that
2. Referenced Documents actually raises, lowers, or transports the load.
3.1.7 belay system, n—the belay assembly and the belay
2.1 ASTM Standards:
line, but for the purposes of this test method, not including the
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
belay anchor.
3.1.8 belay system extension,L,(cm),n—thedistancebelow
the zero line (this excludes drop height) reached at the
This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee F32 on Search
and Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment,
maximum extension during fall arrest, prior to rebound; also
Testing, and Maintenance.
known as stopping distance, expressed in centimetres (cm).
Current edition approved Sept. 15, 2011. Published October 2011. Originally
approved in 2005. Last previous edition approved in 2005 as F2436–05. DOI: 3.1.9 belay system failure, n—when the test block hits the
10.1520/F2436-05(2011).
ground.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on AvailablefromCordageInstitute,994OldEagleSchoolRd.,Wayne,PA19087,
the ASTM website. http://www.ropecord.com.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
F2436 − 05 (2011)
3.1.10 drop height, L, (cm),n—the free-fall distance the 6. Interferences
block falls before the belay system begins to arrest its fall.
6.1 The method used to release the test block could affect
3.1.11 elongation classification, n—in rope rescue systems,
the results by imparting motion to the block, in addition to the
elongation of new rope as measured by CI 1801-98 at 10 % of
straight fall caused by gravity.
the manufacturer’s rated breaking strength: static <6 %
6.1.1 Residual magnetism of an electromagnetic release
elongation, low-stretch >6 % and <10 % elongation
shall be guarded against.
3.1.12 extension, L,n—the change in length of a material, 6.1.2 The use of a light cord between the test block and the
device, or system due to a change in an applied force, usually hoist line, which is cut by a heated nichrome wire or stick
measured at some specified force, force rate, or duration of mounted knife, is also satisfactory.
force, or combination thereof.
6.1.3 Any release buckle, latch, or device that might impart
a sideways force to the suspended mass shall not be used.
3.1.13 final rope length, [L], (cm), n—the distance between
6.1.4 Any restriction imposed on the test block, such as the
the inside of the bowline where it contacts the shackle of the
use of guide rails to contain and control the block’s fall, or the
test block and the lowest gripping portion of the belay
use of a linear motion transducer, shall be constructed and
assembly after the test block has rebounded and come to rest.
maintained so that the combined effect shall not reduce the
3.1.14 lifting line, n—the line that lifts the test block and
velocity of the mass more than 2 % from the velocity of a free
from which a quick disconnection is made to drop the test
falling block of similar mass. Velocity measurements shall be
block (working line).
made and recorded at the beginning of each test day when
3.1.15 maximum arrest force, MAF, (N), n—the peak force guide rail type test rigs are to be used.
measured during the fall arrest.
6.2 If the lifting line’s system uses a twisted cable, there
3.1.16 pre-grip slippage, L, (cm), n—rope movement
may be difficulties with the test block turning and twisting the
through the belay device before gripping stops movement.
rope. This can be prevented by light “anti-twister” cords
runningofftothesideoftheblockthatarereleasedatthesame
3.1.17 rope rescue system, n—a system using fiber ropes to
time as the lifting line connection.
raise, lower, or transport a load.
6.3 Inconsistency in the tightening of knots shall be
3.1.18 zero line, n—the level of the contact between the
avoided.
inside of the bowline and test block shackle when it is 3 m
below the lowest gripping portion of the belay assembly, prior
7. Apparatus
to the drop.
7.1 The test facility shall be a structure with less than 1 mm
4. Summary of Test Method
of immediate elastic deformation at a force of 50 kN at the
anchor point and having a natural frequency above 200 Hz.
4.1 Arigid test block of the correct mass simulates a rescue
7.1.1 Failing this, a distinct cautionary note should be made
load. A rope of given length connects the test block to a belay
in all reports generated at the test facility regarding the anchor
assembly that is in turn connected to a suitably rigid overhead
rigidity or natural frequency.
anchor point. The test block is raised a given distance with a
separate lifting system and is then released.After the block has
7.2 The test block shall have an appropriate mass and, if
free-fallen to its starting point, the belay system (the rope and
madefromacollectionofplates,bars,oringots,shallbejoined
belay assembly) begins to arrest its fall. Among other things,
in a fashion that prevents play or relative movement of parts
maximum arrest force and belay system extension are mea-
during the testing. It shall be provided with a shackle for the
sured. The belay system may or may not be successful in
attachment of the belay line and the lifting line (through the
stopping the falling test block.
quick-disconnectfitting)fromwhichithangsinsymmetry.The
shackle shall have less than 1 mm of immediate elastic
5. Significance and Use
deformation at a force of 50 kN.
5.1 The types of rope rescue systems to which this test 7.2.1 The mass of the rigid test block shall be Type II (100
kg), Type IV (200 kg), or Type V (280 kg) 6 1 %, including
method apply use a tensioned mainline and untensioned belay
attachment hardware, for the testing of equipment intended for
line. If a fall occurs because of a mainline system failure or
misuse, considerable energy must be absorbed by the belay for use with various rescue systems, in accordance with Specifi-
cationF2266.Theusershouldselectthemostappropriatemass
a successful arrest. This drop test method simulates a “worst
to the intended application. Adequate attachment point,
case” condition when systems are operated as designed, and is
rigidity, and symmetry shall be maintained. The mass used
designed to help evaluate and compare the performance of
shall be included in the report.
various rope rescue belay systems under such conditions. (See
Note 1.) The successful catching of a load does not imply that
7.3 The belay line shall be tied directly to the test block
the tested system is suitable for any and all belaying. See X1.2.
using a bowline knot. Use of a setup where the rope is tied to
a platen (catch plate) upon which the falling test block impacts
NOTE1—Higherforcesmaybeencounteredundersomecircumstances,
such as the belay being operated with excessive slack. shall not be permitted.
F2436 − 05 (2011)
7.4 Thetestblockliftingsystemshallbeabletopositionthe 7.6 For belay assemblies that require an active gripping
test block to a tolerance of 60.5 cm and when stopped, sustain hand for operation, an artificial hand shall be substituted to
thetestblockfora5minperiodatagivenheightwiththesame
prevent staff injuries.
tolerance.
7.6.1 The artificial hand shall be constructed as pictured in
7.4.1 The lifting line shall pass not more than 10 cm
Fig. 1.
horizontally in distance from the anchor point for the belay
7.6.2 The artificial hand shall be spring pressure plates that
assembly.
provide a constant belay rope tension. The user shall select the
7.5 If a pit of loose material such as sand is used, care
appropriate tension. See X1.3. The tension used shall be
shouldbetakensothatthetestblockdoesnotincreaseitsmass
included in the report.
by picking up material from the pit after impact.
FIG. 1 Artificial Hand
F2436 − 05 (2011)
7.6.3 When an artificial hand is used, it is considered to be damage from rope snapback or flying debris in the event of a
an integral part of the belay assembly. failed component during a drop test.
7.6.4 Hanging a mass on the belay rope in place of an
9. Sampling
artificial hand is not permitted.
7.6.5 The point where the rope leaves the artificial hand
9.1 If the belay assembly is intended for use on various
(when required) shall be within 40 cm of the point where the
diameters of ropes, tests shall be done on both the largest and
rope enters the belay assembly. There shall be no slack in the
smallest and, if the range exceeds 2 mm, on representative
rope between the artificial hand and the belay assembly.
diameters in between. If the belay assembly is intended for use
7.6.6 Various anchor points for the artificial hand, each with
with various brands and designs of ropes, each rope brand and
an immediate elastic deformation of less than 1 mm under the
construction should be tested. (See Note 2.)
application of a 500 N force, shall be provided so that the
NOTE 2—Different rope brands of same diameter can have unexpected
position relative to the belay assembly can duplicate the
differences in performance, apparently, due to fairly small differences in
position of function in actual use.
rope construction. It should be clearly stated which rope brands, sizes and
constructions were tested and the condition they were in at the start of
7.7 The test facility shall have a rope flaking area, where
testing.
additional rope can be loosely flaked out. The test block shall
be able to reach the ground without using up this additional
10. Conditioning
rope.
10.1 Whiledifferentconditionsoftemperatureandhumidity
7.7.1 The flaking area shall be a flat horizontal surface on
may affect impact forces and other test results, conditioning of
thetestingfacilitywithnoroughnessorirregularitiestoimpede
ropesisnotfeasibleformosttesting.Ifconditioningisfeasible,
the free flow of the rope.
standard conditions of Practice D1776 shall be used and be
7.7.2 The rope (belay line) shall be flaked at an angle less
recorded in test results.
than 15° of directly in line with the device’s intended manner
10.2 If conditioning is not an option, temperature and
of use for braking, and the flaking area shall be positioned to
provide1m(610cm)ofunsupportedropebetweentheflaking humidityduringthetestsshallbethoseunderwhichequipment
would normally be used. These conditions shall be noted in
area and the belay device being tested.
your test report.
7.8 The maximum arrest force (MAF) shall be measured by
10.2.1 Storage conditions prior to the tests shall be those
a system, which is accurate to 61 % of the MAF, free from
under which equipment would normally be stored prior to use.
artifact, and whose calibration is traceable to a recognized
These conditions shall be noted in the test report.
source. It is preferable that the recording device also be able to
10.3 A different piece of dry, new rope shall be used for
generate a force/time curve.
each test.
7.8.1 MAF measurements are obtained by sampling of an
10.3.1 Altering rope conditions (used, wet, muddy, icy, and
electronic load cell or other suitable device. Its physical
so forth) will result in belay performance differences. The user
characteristics and all associated electronics shall allow sam-
ofthistestmethodmaywishtousethismethodtotestdifferent
pling at a minimum of 2000 times per second. The minimum
rope conditi
...
Questions, Comments and Discussion
Ask us and Technical Secretary will try to provide an answer. You can facilitate discussion about the standard in here.