ASTM D6554/D6554M-09
(Specification)Standard Performance Specification for 100 % Cotton Denim Fabrics
Standard Performance Specification for 100 % Cotton Denim Fabrics
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
Upon agreement between purchaser and supplier, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.
It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics, the ultimate consumer of apparel made from these fabrics may find the product acceptable, even if it does not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1 or Table 2. One or more of the requirements listed in Table 1 or Table 2, therefore, may be modified upon agreement between the purchaser and the supplier.
In such cases, any references to this specification must specify the following: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 6554 except for the following characteristic(s):” All exceptions must be noted.
Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the supplier, and in case of controversy, the requirements listed in Tables 1 and 2 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 4.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.
TABLE 1 Performance Requirements CharacteristicsRequirementsSection Heavy WeightMedium WeightLight Weight Breaking Strength (Force), CRT:7.1 Warp801 N (180 lbf), min578 N (130 lbf), min356 N (80 lbf), min Filling312 N (70 lbf), min244 N (55 lbf), min178 N (40 lbf), min Elmendorf Tear Strength:7.2 Warp51 N (11.5 lbf), min35 N (8.0 lbf), min18 N (4.0 lbf), min Filling18 N (4.0 lbf), min15 N (3.5 lbf), min13 N (3.0 lbf), min Seam Slippage:7.3 (¼ -in. Separation)222 N+ (50 lbf +)133 N+ (30 lbf +)111 N+ (25 lbf +) Skewness: 7.4 3 × 1 Twill, only 8 % ± 3 %(wtl)A 2 × 1 Twill, only 4.5 ± 3 %(wtl)A Stretch (Warp Elongation) as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier 7.5 Width as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier 7.6 Weight as agreed upon between purchaser and supplier 7.7 Dimensional Change, % Laundering 7.8 Preshrunk (each direction) 4.0 % max, Flammability Class I 7.9
A WTL = with the twill line.
TA...
SCOPE
1.1 This specification covers performance requirements for 100 % cotton woven denim fabrics, prior to the manufacture of jeans, casual apparel, work clothing, and outerwear.
1.2 This specification is not applicable to woven denim fabrics used as interlinings or protective clothing.
1.3 This specification covers the performance of denim fabric on rolls ready for garment manufacturing.
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from the two systems may result in non-conformance with the standard.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and to determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
General Information
Relations
Buy Standard
Standards Content (Sample)
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation:D6554/D6554M −09
StandardSpecification for
1
100% Cotton Denim Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D6554/D6554M; the number immediately following the designation indicates the
year of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last
reapproval. A superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D3882 Test Method for Bow and Skew in Woven and
Knitted Fabrics
1.1 This specification covers performance requirements for
D5034 TestMethodforBreakingStrengthandElongationof
100 % cotton woven denim fabrics, prior to the manufacture of
Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
jeans, casual apparel, work clothing, and outerwear.
D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel
3
1.2 This specification is not applicable to woven denim
2.2 AATCC Standards :
fabrics used as interlinings or protective clothing.
Test Method 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crock-
1.3 This specification covers the performance of denim meter Method
fabric on rolls ready for garment manufacturing. Test Method 16(Option E) Colorfastness to Light: Water-
Cooled Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units
Test Method 61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and
are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in
Commercial: Accelerated
each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each
Test Method 109 Colorfastness to Ozone in the Atmosphere
system shall be used independently of the other. Combining
Under Low Humidities
values from the two systems may result in non-conformance
Test Method 116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical
with the standard.
Crockmeter Method
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the
Test Method 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
Laundering of Woven or Knit Fabrics
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change
priate safety and health practices and to determine the
Evaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for Staining
applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
Evaluation Procedure 8 AATCC—9 Step Chromatic Trans-
ference Scale
2. Referenced Documents
2.3 Federal Standard:
2.1 ASTM Standards:
16 CFR 16.10, Chapter II, Subchapter D—Flammable Fab-
4
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
rics Act Regulations
D434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in
2.4 Other Document:
3
Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn
Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology
2
2003)
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this specification gives only the
D1230 Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles
permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test
2
(Withdrawn 2010)
methods. The current edition of each test method cited shall prevail.
D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by
Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus 3. Terminology
D3107 Test Methods for Stretch Properties of Fabrics Wo-
3.1 For all terminology relating to D13.61,Apparel, refer to
ven from Stretch Yarns
Terminology D7022.
D3774 Test Method for Width of Textile Fabric
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:
D3776 Test Methods for Mass Per Unit Area (Weight) of
denm, indigo dyed, jeans, heavy-weight, light-weight,
Fabric
medium-weight.
3.2 For all other terms related to textiles, see Terminology
1
D123 and the Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology.
This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on
Textiles and is direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved July 1, 2009. Published July 2009. Originally approved
3
in2000.Lastpreviouseditionapprovedin2000asD6554–00.DOI:10.1520/D6554 Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
_D6554M-09. (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http://
2
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.aatcc.org.
4
www.astm.org. Available from US Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
1
---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
D6554/D6554M−09
TABLE 1 Performance Requirements
Characteristics Requirements Section
Heavy Weight Medium Weight Light Weight
Breaking Strength (Force), CRT: 7.1
Warp 801 N (180 lbf), min 578 N (130 lbf), min 356 N (80 lbf), min
Filling 312 N (70 lbf), min 244 N (55 lbf), min 178 N (40 lbf), min
Elmendorf Tear Strength: 7.2
Warp 51 N (11.5 lbf), min 35 N (8.0 lbf), min 18 N (4.0 lbf), min
Filling 18 N (4.0 lbf), min 15 N (3.5 lbf), min 13 N (3.0 lbf), min
Seam Slippage: 7.3
1
( ⁄4-in
...
This document is not anASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of anASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation:D6554–00
Standard Performance Specification for Designation: D 6554/
D6554M – 09
Standard Specification for
1
100 % Cotton Denim Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 6554/D6554M; the number immediately following the designation indicates the
year of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last
reapproval. A superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1This specification covers performance requirements for 100% cotton woven denim fabrics used in the manufacture of jeans,
casual apparel, work clothing, and outerwear.
1.2This performance specification is not applicable to woven denim fabrics used as interlinings or protective clothing.
1.3This standard covers the performance of denim fabric on rolls ready for garment manufacturing.
1.4
1.1 This specification covers performance requirements for 100 % cotton woven denim fabrics, prior to the manufacture of
jeans, casual apparel, work clothing, and outerwear.
1.2 This specification is not applicable to woven denim fabrics used as interlinings or protective clothing.
1.3 This specification covers the performance of denim fabric on rolls ready for garment manufacturing.
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each
system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from the
two systems may result in non-conformance with the standard.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility
of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and to determine the applicability of regulatory
limitations prior to use.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam
D 1230 Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles
D 1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
D 3107 Test Methods for Stretch Properties of Woven Fabrics Woven from Stretch Yarns
D 3774 Test Method for Width of WovenTextile Fabric
D 3776 Test Methods for Mass perPer Unit Area (Weight) of Woven Fabric
D 3882 Test Method for Bow and SkewnessSkew in Woven and Knitted Fabrics
4
D 5034 Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) Test Method for Breaking Strength and
Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
D 7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel
2
2.2 AATCC Standards :
Test Method 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method
Test Method 16(Option E) Colorfastness to Light: Water-Cooled Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light
Test Method 61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Accelerated
Test Method 109 Colorfastness to Ozone in the Atmosphere Under Low Humidities
1
This test method specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved June 10, 2000. Published September 2000.
Current edition approved July 1, 2009. Published July 2009. Originally approved in 2000. Last previous edition approved in 2000 as D6554–00.
2
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.
2
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http://www.aatcc.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
1
---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
D 6554/D6554M – 09
Test Method 116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method
Test Method 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven or Knit Fabrics
Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change
Evaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for Staining
Evaluation Procedure 8 AATCC—9 Step Chromatic Transference Scale
2.3 Federal Standard:
3
16 CFR 16.10, Chapter II, Subchapter D—Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations
2.4 Other Document:
2
Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this specification gives only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test methods.
The current edition of each test method cited shall prevail.
3. Terminology
3.1Definitions:
3.1.
...
Questions, Comments and Discussion
Ask us and Technical Secretary will try to provide an answer. You can facilitate discussion about the standard in here.