ASTM D3780-22
(Specification)Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Boys' Woven Dress Suit Fabrics and Woven Sportswear Jacket, Slack, and Trouser Fabrics
Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Boys' Woven Dress Suit Fabrics and Woven Sportswear Jacket, Slack, and Trouser Fabrics
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the supplier, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.
5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the supplier.
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: This fabric meets Specification D3780 except for the following characteristic(s).
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the supplier, and in case of controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.
5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified test methods.
SCOPE
1.1 This performance specification covers men's and boys' woven dress suit fabrics and woven sportswear jacket, slack, and trouser fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture of textile fibers.
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to woven fabrics used for interlinings.
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.
1.4 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to the test method described in this specification. This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
General Information
- Status
- Published
- Publication Date
- 31-Oct-2022
- Technical Committee
- D13 - Textiles
- Drafting Committee
- D13.61 - Apparel
Relations
- Effective Date
- 01-Jan-2024
- Effective Date
- 15-Jul-2017
- Effective Date
- 15-Jul-2017
- Effective Date
- 01-Mar-2017
- Effective Date
- 15-Sep-2015
- Effective Date
- 01-Sep-2015
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2015
- Effective Date
- 01-Apr-2015
- Effective Date
- 01-Oct-2013
- Effective Date
- 01-Oct-2013
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2013
- Effective Date
- 01-Jul-2013
- Effective Date
- 15-Jun-2013
- Effective Date
- 15-Jun-2013
- Effective Date
- 15-May-2013
Overview
ASTM D3780-22: Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Boys' Woven Dress Suit Fabrics and Woven Sportswear Jacket, Slack, and Trouser Fabrics defines the performance requirements for a wide range of woven fabrics used in men's and boys' dress suits as well as sportswear, including jackets, slacks, and trousers. Issued by ASTM International, this specification covers fabrics made from any textile fiber or fiber blend, except those specifically intended for interlinings.
The standard ensures consistency in quality and performance characteristics such as strength, dimensional stability, colorfastness, and flammability. It serves as an essential reference for fabric manufacturers, apparel designers, and purchasers to establish performance expectations, promote safety, and facilitate trades.
Key Topics
- Scope of Application: Applies to woven fabrics used in men's and boys' dress suits, jackets, slacks, and trousers, regardless of fiber content. Does not cover interlining materials.
- Performance Requirements: Lists minimum criteria for vital properties, such as:
- Breaking strength
- Resistance to yarn slippage
- Tear strength
- Dimensional stability after laundering and dry cleaning
- Colorfastness to multiple agents (light, laundering, dry cleaning, perspiration, crocking, bleaching)
- Fabric smoothness appearance
- Flammability (in line with federal regulations)
- Test Methods Referenced: Utilizes both ASTM and AATCC test methods to verify conformance, ensuring reliable, repeatable measurement of textile performance.
- Acceptance and Modification: Requirements may be modified through mutual agreement between supplier and purchaser to address specific needs, fashion considerations, or consumer preference.
- Safety Considerations: Stresses the importance of following appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices when conducting described test methods.
Applications
ASTM D3780-22 is widely used throughout the textile and apparel industry by:
- Fabric Manufacturers: To develop and certify fabrics suitable for use in men's and boys' suits, sportswear jackets, slacks, and trousers, meeting recognized performance benchmarks.
- Purchasers and Sourcing Professionals: Provides a foundation for specifying product requirements and quality control during procurement negotiations.
- Apparel Brands and Retailers: Ensures products meet durability, appearance, and safety expectations necessary for market competitiveness and consumer satisfaction.
- Quality Assurance Labs: Guides standardized fabric testing, supporting consistent inspection, acceptance, and dispute resolution.
- Product Development Teams: Assists in selection and approval of woven fabrics that balance style demands with technical performance.
- Regulatory Compliance: Aids in compliance with consumer product safety and flammability regulations, limiting market risks.
By applying ASTM D3780-22, stakeholders ensure woven fabrics offer reliable wear, color retention, dimensional stability, and resistance to common stresses faced during production, wearing, and care.
Related Standards
Several important standards and regulations are referenced in conjunction with ASTM D3780-22, including:
- ASTM D5034: Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
- ASTM D1424: Tearing Strength of Fabrics (Elmendorf Method)
- ASTM D434: Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics
- AATCC TM8, TM16.3, TM61, TM132, TM135, TM188, TM172, TM124: Various test methods for assessing colorfastness, dimensional changes, abrasion, and smoothness
- 16 CFR 1610: Standard for Flammability of Clothing Textiles (Federal Regulation)
- MIL-STD-105D: Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes
Keywords: men's woven fabrics, dress suits, sportswear fabrics, jackets, trousers, ASTM D3780, textile performance specifications, colorfastness, fabric strength, flammability standards.
By adhering to ASTM D3780-22, organizations across the textile supply chain can ensure their products meet international performance expectations, enhance consumer trust, and facilitate global trade.
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Frequently Asked Questions
ASTM D3780-22 is a technical specification published by ASTM International. Its full title is "Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Boys' Woven Dress Suit Fabrics and Woven Sportswear Jacket, Slack, and Trouser Fabrics". This standard covers: SIGNIFICANCE AND USE 5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the supplier, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification. 5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the supplier. 5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: This fabric meets Specification D3780 except for the following characteristic(s). 5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the supplier, and in case of controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying performance parameters for any particular style of fabric. 5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified test methods. SCOPE 1.1 This performance specification covers men's and boys' woven dress suit fabrics and woven sportswear jacket, slack, and trouser fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture of textile fibers. 1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to woven fabrics used for interlinings. 1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent. 1.4 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to the test method described in this specification. This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. 1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE 5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the supplier, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification. 5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the supplier. 5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: This fabric meets Specification D3780 except for the following characteristic(s). 5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the supplier, and in case of controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying performance parameters for any particular style of fabric. 5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified test methods. SCOPE 1.1 This performance specification covers men's and boys' woven dress suit fabrics and woven sportswear jacket, slack, and trouser fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture of textile fibers. 1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to woven fabrics used for interlinings. 1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent. 1.4 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to the test method described in this specification. This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. 1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
ASTM D3780-22 is classified under the following ICS (International Classification for Standards) categories: 61.020 - Clothes. The ICS classification helps identify the subject area and facilitates finding related standards.
ASTM D3780-22 has the following relationships with other standards: It is inter standard links to ASTM D2261-13(2024), ASTM D2261-13(2017), ASTM D2261-13(2017)e1, ASTM D123-17, ASTM D123-15b, ASTM D123-15a, ASTM D2724-07(2015), ASTM D123-15, ASTM D7022-13e1, ASTM D7022-13, ASTM D1424-09(2013)e1, ASTM D1424-09(2013), ASTM D123-13ae1, ASTM D123-13a, ASTM D123-13. Understanding these relationships helps ensure you are using the most current and applicable version of the standard.
ASTM D3780-22 is available in PDF format for immediate download after purchase. The document can be added to your cart and obtained through the secure checkout process. Digital delivery ensures instant access to the complete standard document.
Standards Content (Sample)
This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation:D3780 −22
Standard Performance Specification for
Men’s and Boys’ Woven Dress Suit Fabrics and Woven
Sportswear Jacket, Slack, and Trouser Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3780; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by
Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
1.1 This performance specification covers men’s and boys’
D2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the
woven dress suit fabrics and woven sportswear jacket, slack,
Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-
and trouser fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture of
Extension Tensile Testing Machine)
textile fibers.
D2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to
by the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-
woven fabrics used for interlinings.
Traverse Tensile Testing Machine) (Withdrawn 1995)
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width D2724 Test Method for Bond Strength of Bonded, Fused,
and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
directions for those properties where fabric direction is perti-
nent. D2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens for
Textiles (Withdrawn 2008)
1.4 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to the
D5034 TestMethodforBreakingStrengthandElongationof
test method described in this specification. This standard does
Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any,
D7022 Terminology Relating toApparel (Withdrawn 2022)
associatedwithitsuse.Itistheresponsibilityoftheuserofthis
2.2 AATCC Test Methods:
standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environ-
TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method
mental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory
TM15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
limitations prior to use.
TM16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon Arc
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor-
TM23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
TM96 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
TM116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crock-
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
meter Method
2. Referenced Documents TM119 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting):
Screen Wire Method
2.1 ASTM Standards:
TM124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics After Repeated
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
Home Laundering
D434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in
TM132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn
TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laun-
2003)
dering
TM172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in
Home Laundering
This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee
D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on
TM188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in
Apparel.
Home Laundering
Current edition approved Nov. 1, 2022. Published November 2022. Originally
EP1 Gray Scale for Color Change
approved in 1979. Last previous edition approved in 2014 as D3780 – 14. DOI:
10.1520/D3780-22. EP2 Gray Scale for Staining
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
EP8 AATCC 9–Step Chromatic Transference Scale
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
the ASTM website.
3 4
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on Available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists,
www.astm.org. P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709; www.aatcc.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D3780−22
M11 A Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology 3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:
pressing and finishing.
2.3 Federal Standards:
16 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Tex-
3.2 For definitions of all other textile terms, see Terminol-
tiles
ogy D123.
16 CFR, Chapter II—Consumer Product Safety
3.3 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing,
Commission, Subchapter D—Flammable Fabrics Act
refer to specific AATCC test methods or the glossary of
Regulations
AATCC Standard Terminology, or both.
2.4 Military Standard:
MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-
4. Specification Requirements
spection by Attributes
4.1 The properties of fabrics for men’s and boys’ woven
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this specification gives only the
dress suits and woven sportswear jackets, slacks, and trousers
permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test
shall conform to the specification requirements in Table 1.
methods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.
5. Significance and Use
3. Terminology
5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the
3.1 For all terminology related toApparel, see Terminology
supplier, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet
D7022.
all of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.
5.2 Itisrecognizedthatforpurposesoffashionoraesthetics
the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may
Available from Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing
find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the
Office, Washington, DC 20402.
requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the
AvailablefromStandardizationDocumentsOrderDesk,Bldg.4SectionD,700
Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements
NOTE 1—Grade in a, b, c, and SArating is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 for severe
color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating in Table 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.
Requirements
Characteristic Section
Suit, Slack, Trouser Jacket
Breaking strength (load) (CRT): 7.1
Worsted count yarns 178 N (40 lbf), min 133 N (30 lbf), min
Cotton count yarns 178 N (40 lbf), min 133 N (30 lbf), min
Woolen run yarns 133 N (30 lbf), min 111 N (25 lbf), min
Yarn slippage 6.3-mm ( ⁄4-in.) separation at 89 N (20 lbf), min 7.2
111 N (25 lbf), min
Tear strength 11 N (2.5 lbf), min 9 N (2 lbf) 7.3
Dimensional Change:
Pressing and finishing (in each direction) 2 % max 2 % max 7.4.1
After five launderings (in each direction) 3 % max 3 % max 7.4.2
After three dry cleanings (in each direction) 2 % max 2 % max 7.4.3
Colorfastness:
Burnt gas fumes—2 cycles:
A A
Shade change, original fabric Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.1
A A
Shade change after one laundering or one dry cleaning Grade 4 min Grade 4 min
A A
Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.8
A A
Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.9
E
Laundering:
A A
Shade change Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.2
B B
Staining Grade 3 min Grade 3 min
Dry cleaning:
A A
Shade change Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.3
E
Crocking:
C C
Dry Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.4
C C
Wet Grade 3 min Grade 3 min
E
Perspiration:
A A
Shade change Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.5
B B
Staining Grade 3 min Grade 3 min
A A
Light (40 AFUs) (xenon-arc) Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.6
A A
Frosting Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.7
D D
Fabric smoothness appearance (See 7.6.1)SA3.5 min SA 3.5 min 7.6
Flammability Class 1 or Class 2 Class 1 or Class 2 7.6
A
AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.
B
AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.
C
AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.
D
For easy-care fabrics only.
E
See Note 8.
D3780−22
requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutual 7.2 Resistance to Yarn Slippage—Determine the resistance
agreement between the purchaser and the supplier. to yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D434.
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall
NOTE 3—The precision of Test Method D434 has not been established,
specify that: This fabric meets Specification D3780 except for
and it may not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn counts.
the following characteristic(s).
7.3 Tear Strength—Determine the tear strength as directed
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached in Test Method D1424.
between the purchaser and the supplier, and in case of
NOTE 4—If preferred, use of Test Methods D2261 or D2262 i
...
This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation: D3780 − 14 D3780 − 22
Standard Performance Specification for
Men’s and Boys’ Woven Dress Suit Fabrics and Woven
Sportswear Jacket, Slack, and Trouser Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3780; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This performance specification covers men’s and boys’ woven dress suit fabrics and woven sportswear jacket, slack, and
trouser fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture of textile fibers.
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to woven fabrics used for interlinings.
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.
1.4 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to the test method described in this specification.This standard does not
purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to
establish appropriate safety safety, health, and healthenvironmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory
limitations prior to use.
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization
established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued
by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn 2003)
D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
D2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile
Testing Machine)
D2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse
Tensile Testing Machine) (Withdrawn 1995)
D2724 Test Method for Bond Strength of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
D2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens for Textiles (Withdrawn 2008)
D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel (Withdrawn 2022)
This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2014Nov. 1, 2022. Published March 2014November 2022. Originally approved in 1979. Last previous edition approved in 20082014 as
D3780 – 02D3780 – 14.(2008). DOI: 10.1520/D3780-14.10.1520/D3780-22.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D3780 − 22
2.2 AATCC Test Methods:
8TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method
15TM15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
16.3TM16.3 Colorfastness to LightLight: Xenon Arc
23TM23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
61TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated
96TM96 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool
116TM116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method
119TM119 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Screen Wire Method
124TM124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics After Repeated Home Laundering
132TM132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
135TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering
172TM172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
188TM188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering
Evaluation Procedure 1EP1 Gray Scale for Color Change
Evaluation Procedure 2EP2 Gray Scale for Staining
Evaluation Procedure 8EP8 AATCC 9–Step Chromatic Transference Scale
M11 A Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology
2.3 Federal Standards:
16 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Textiles
16 CFR, Chapter II—Consumer Product Safety Commission, Subchapter D—Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations
2.4 Military Standard:
MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this specification gives only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test methods. The
current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.
3. Terminology
3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel, see Terminology D7022.
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard: pressing and finishing.
3.2 For definitions of all other textile terms, see Terminology D123.
3.3 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing, refer to specific AATCC test methods or the glossary of AATCC
Standard Terminology, or both.
4. Specification Requirements
4.1 The properties of fabrics for men’s and boys’ woven dress suits and woven sportswear jackets, slacks, and trousers shall
conform to the specification requirements in Table 1.
5. Significance and Use
5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the supplier, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of
the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.
5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find
acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in
Table 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the supplier.
Available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709; www.aatcc.org.
Available from Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.
Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.
D3780 − 22
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements
NOTE 1—Grade in a, b, c, and SA rating is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 for severe
color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating in Table 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.
Requirements
Characteristic Section
Suit, Slack, Trouser Jacket
Breaking strength (load) (CRT): 7.1
Worsted count yarns 178 N (40 lbf), min 133 N (30 lbf), min
Cotton count yarns 178 N (40 lbf), min 133 N (30 lbf), min
Woolen run yarns 133 N (30 lbf), min 111 N (25 lbf), min
Yarn slippage 6.3-mm ( ⁄4-in.) separation at 89 N (20 lbf), min 7.2
111 N (25 lbf), min
Tear strength 11 N (2.5 lbf), min 9 N (2 lbf) 7.3
Dimensional Change:
Pressing and finishing (in each direction) 2 % max 2 % max 7.4.1
After five launderings (in each direction) 3 % max 3 % max 7.4.2
After three dry cleanings (in each direction) 2 % max 2 % max 7.4.3
Colorfastness:
Burnt gas fumes—2 cycles:
A A
Shade change, original fabric Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.1
A A
Shade change after one laundering or one dry cleaning Grade 4 min Grade 4 min
A A
Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.8
A A
Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.9
E
Laundering:
A A
Shade change Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.2
B B
Staining Grade 3 min Grade 3 min
Dry cleaning:
A A
Shade change Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.3
E
Crocking:
C C
Dry Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.4
C C
Wet Grade 3 min Grade 3 min
E
Perspiration:
A A
Shade change Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.5
B B
Staining Grade 3 min Grade 3 min
A A
Light (40 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.6
A A
Light (40 AFUs) (xenon-arc) Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.6
A A
Frosting Grade 4 min Grade 4 min 7.5.7
D D
Fabric smoothness appearance (See 7.6.1) SA 3.5 min SA 3.5 min 7.6
Flammability Class 1 or Class 2 Class 1 or Class 2 7.6
A
AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.
B
AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.
C
AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.
D
For easy-care fabrics only.
E
See Note 8.
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: This fabric meets Specification D3780 except for the
following characteristic(s).
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the supplier, and in case of controversy, the
requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying
performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.
5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified test
methods.
6. Sampling
6.1 Acceptance Testing Lot—Unless there is prior agreement, consi
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