ASTM D3655-22

Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Women's Sliver Knitted Overcoat and Jacket Fabrics

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
4.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification. (A) More than one method can be used to measure these properties. These methods cannot be used interchangeably since there can be no overall correlation between them (see Note 2, Note 3, and Note 7).(B) AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.(C) AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.(D) AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.(E) It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained by standard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades that contain a combination of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may not show the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is, therefore, recommended that the staining results obtained by these tests not be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.  
4.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller.  
4.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3655 except for the following characteristic(s).  
4.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 4.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.  
4.4 The uses and significance of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified test methods.
SCOPE
1.1 This performance specification covers men's and women's sliver knitted overcoat and jacket fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture of textile fibers.  
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to knitted fabrics used for interlinings.  
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.  
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 31-Oct-2022
• ICS: 61.020 - Clothes
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.61 - Apparel

Relations

• Refers: ASTM D3787-16(2020) - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2020
• Refers: ASTM D123-17 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Mar-2017
• Refers: ASTM D3787-16 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
• Effective Date: 01-Jan-2016
• Refers: ASTM D123-15b - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Sep-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-15a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Sep-2015
• Refers: ASTM D3787-15 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2015
• Refers: ASTM D2724-07(2015) - Standard Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-15 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Apr-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-13ae1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jun-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jun-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-May-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-12e1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Feb-2012
• Refers: ASTM D123-12 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Feb-2012
• Refers: ASTM D2724-07(2011)e1 - Standard Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
• Effective Date: 01-May-2011
• Refers: ASTM D2724-07(2011) - Standard Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
• Effective Date: 01-May-2011

Overview

ASTM D3655-22: Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Women's Sliver Knitted Overcoat and Jacket Fabrics establishes performance expectations for sliver knitted fabrics intended for use in overcoats and jackets. Published by ASTM International, this standard details requirements for a broad range of textile fibers and blends, focusing on durability, colorfastness, dimensional stability, and flammability. Adherence to this standard helps manufacturers, suppliers, and purchasers ensure the quality and consistency of outerwear fabrics.

Key Topics

• Scope and Applicability

  • Covers sliver knitted fabrics for men's and women's overcoats and jackets regardless of fiber composition
  • Not applicable to knitted fabrics used as interlinings
  • Requirements provided for both lengthwise and widthwise fabric directions

• Performance Criteria

  • Bursting Strength: Minimum performance defined for resistance to rupture (70 lbf/311 N), tested via recognized ASTM methods
  • Dimensional Change: Maximum allowable shrinkage after laundering (3%) and dry cleaning (2%) to ensure fit retention
  • Colorfastness:
    • Tested against multiple agents: laundering, dry cleaning, water, perspiration, light, burnt gas fumes, and bleaches (chlorine and non-chlorine)
    • Color change and staining assessed using AATCC gray scales and chromatic transference scales
    • Special notes address challenges with blends such as polyester/spandex for certain colorfastness evaluations

• Flexibility and Modification

  • Buyers and sellers may modify the specification by mutual agreement to meet specific fashion or performance objectives
  • In the absence of specific agreements, requirements serve as a guideline

• Flammability

  • Fabrics must comply with flammability standards specified by federal regulations (16 CFR Part 1610 or above as agreed)

• Referenced Test Methods

  • Incorporates key standards from ASTM (e.g., D3786, D3787, D2724) and AATCC (e.g., TM8, TM61, TM107, TM132) for consistent and validated testing procedures

Applications

ASTM D3655-22 is essential for businesses involved in the production, supply, or purchasing of outerwear fabrics, particularly:

• Textile Manufacturers:

  • Use the standard as a benchmark for quality assurance in sliver knitted fabric production
  • Design testing and inspection protocols to meet or exceed the outlined requirements

• Apparel Brands and Retailers:

  • Specify the standard in material sourcing contracts to ensure reliable product quality and performance
  • Utilize as a tool for product claims around durability, colorfastness, and maintenance characteristics

• Quality Assurance and Testing Laboratories:

  • Reference the standard to select and execute appropriate test methods for fabric certification or troubleshooting
  • Guide the evaluation of new materials, blends, or finishes for compliance

• Purchasers and End-Users:

  • Consult the document to make informed decisions about overcoat and jacket fabric selections based on desired durability, care requirements, and safety features

Related Standards

For comprehensive textile quality management and testing, ASTM D3655-22 is often used in conjunction with:

• ASTM D123: Terminology Relating to Textiles
• ASTM D2724: Bond Strength of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
• ASTM D3786/D3787: Bursting Strength of Textile Fabrics
• AATCC Test Methods: Including TM8 (Crocking), TM61 (Laundering), TM107 (Water), TM132 (Drycleaning), TM15 (Perspiration), TM16 (Lightfastness), TM23 (Burnt Gas Fumes), TM135 (Laundry Shrinkage)

Adhering to ASTM D3655-22 ensures that men's and women's sliver knitted overcoat and jacket fabrics deliver consistent quality, durability, and safety, meeting both regulatory and market expectations for textile performance.

Standards Content (Sample)

This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation:D3655 −22
Standard Performance Specification for
Men’s and Women’s Sliver Knitted Overcoat and Jacket
Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3655; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—
Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
1.1 This performance specification covers men’s and wom-
D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel
en’s sliver knitted overcoat and jacket fabrics composed of any
textile fiber or mixture of textile fibers. 2.2 AATCC Methods:
TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to
TM15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
knitted fabrics used for interlinings.
TM16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon Arc
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width
TM23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
directions for those properties where fabric direction is perti-
TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated
nent.
TM107 Colorfastness to Water
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
TM116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crock-
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the meter Method
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
TM132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter- TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laun-
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
dering
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor- TM172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
Home Laundering
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the TM188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
Home Laundering
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical EP1 Gray Scale for Color Change
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee. EP2 Gray Scale for Staining
EP8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale
2. Referenced Documents
2.3 Federal Standard:
2.1 ASTM Standards:
16 CFR, Chapter II—Consumer Product Safety
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
Commission, Subchapter D—Flammable Fabrics Act
D2724 Test Method for Bond Strength of Bonded, Fused,
Regulations
and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this specification give only the
D2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens for
permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test
Textiles (Withdrawn 2008)
methods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.
D3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile
Fabrics—Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method
3. Terminology
3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel see Terminology
This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D7022.
D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:
Apparel.
fabric, sliver knitted.
Current edition approved Nov. 1, 2022. Published November 2022. Originally
approved in 1978. Last previous edition approved in 2014 as D3655 – 14. DOI:
10.1520/D3655-22.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http://
the ASTM website. www.aatcc.org.
3 5
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,
www.astm.org. Washington, DC 20402.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D3655−22
3.2 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing, be used as a guide only. As noted in 4.2, ultimate consumer
refer to specific AATCC methods. For definitions of all other demands dictate varying performance parameters for any
textile terms see Terminology D123. particular style of fabric.
4.4 The uses and significance of particular properties and
4. Significance and Use
test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the
4.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the
specified test methods.
seller, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet all
of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.
5. Specification Requirements
4.2 Itisrecognizedthatforpurposesoffashionoraesthetics
5.1 The properties of fabrics for men’s and womens’ sliver
the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may
knitted overcoats and jackets shall conform to the specification
find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the
requirements in Table 1.
requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the
requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutual 6. Sampling
agreement between the purchaser and the seller.
6.1 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in an
4.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall
applicablematerialspecification,takethenumberofspecimens
specify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3655
directed in each of the applicable test methods.
except for the following characteristic(s).
6.1.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the test
4.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached method does not specify the number of specimens, use the
between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of
procedures in Practice D2905 to determine the number of
controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to specimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-
ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of the
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements averageaboveorbelowthelotaverage(thatis,theaveragethat
would be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)
NOTE 1—The classes of colorfastness in the AATCC methods refer-
when using a reliable estimate of variability of individual
enced in this table are based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no
observations on similar materials in the user’s laboratory under
color change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color change or color
transfer.
conditions of single-operator precision.
Characteristic Requirements Section
7. Test Methods (See Note 1)
A
Bursting strength (Ball Burst) 70 lbf (311 N) min 7.1
Dimensional Change:
7.1 Bursting Strength—Determine the bursting strength, in
After 5 launderings 3 % max, in 7.1
the standard atmosphere for testing te
...

This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation: D3655 − 14 D3655 − 22
Standard Performance Specification for
Men’s and Women’s Sliver Knitted Overcoat and Jacket
Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3655; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This performance specification covers men’s and women’s sliver knitted overcoat and jacket fabrics composed of any textile
fiber or mixture of textile fibers.
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to knitted fabrics used for interlinings.
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.
1.4 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to the test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification:This standard
does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this
standard to establish appropriate safety safety, health, and healthenvironmental practices and determine the applicability of
regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization
established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued
by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D2724 Test Method for Bond Strength of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
D2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens for Textiles (Withdrawn 2008)
D3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile Fabrics—Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method
D3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel
2.2 AATCC Methods:
8TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method
15TM15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
16.3TM16.3 Colorfastness to LightLight: Xenon Arc
23TM23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2014Nov. 1, 2022. Published March 2014November 2022. Originally approved in 1978. Last previous edition approved in 20132014 as
ε1
D3655 – 13D3655 – 14. . DOI: 10.1520/D3655-14.10.1520/D3655-22.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http://www.aatcc.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D3655 − 22
61TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated
107TM107 Colorfastness to Water
116TM116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method
132TM132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
135TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering
172TM172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
188TM188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering
Evaluation Procedure 1EP1 Gray Scale for Color Change
Evaluation Procedure 2EP2 Gray Scale for Staining
Evaluation Procedure 8EP8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale
2.3 Federal Standard:
16 CFR, Chapter II—Consumer Product Safety Commission, Subchapter D—Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this specification give only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test methods. The
current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.
3. Terminology
3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel see Terminology D7022.
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard: fabric, sliver knitted.
3.2 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing, refer to specific AATCC methods. For definitions of all other textile
terms see Terminology D123.
4. Significance and Use
4.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the
requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.
4.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find
acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in
Table 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller.
4.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3655 except for
the following characteristic(s).
4.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of controversy, the
requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 4.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying
performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.
4.4 The uses and significance of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified
test methods.
5. Specification Requirements
5.1 The properties of fabrics for men’s and womens’ sliver knitted overcoats and jackets shall conform to the specification
requirements in Table 1.
6. Sampling
6.1 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in an applicable material specification, take the number of specimens directed
in each of the applicable test methods.
Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.
D3655 − 22
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements
NOTE 1—The classes of colorfastness in the AATCC methods refer-
enced in this table are based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no
color change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color change or color
transfer.
Characteristic Requirements Section
A
Bursting strength (Ball Burst) 70 lbf (311 N) min 7.1
Dimensional Change:
After 5 launderings 3 % max, in 7.1
each direction
After 3 drycleanings 2 % max, in 7.2
each direction
Colorfastness:
Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles: 7.3.1
B
Shade change original fabric Class 4 min
B
Shade change after 1 laundering Class 4 min 7.3.8
or 1 drycleaning
B
Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4 min 7.3.9
B
Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4 min
E
Laundering: 7.3.2
B
Shade change Class 4 min
C
Staining Class 3 min
Drycleaning: 7.3.3
B
Shade change Class 4 min
E
Crocking: 7.3.4
D
Dry Class 4 min
D
Wet Class 3 min
E
Water: 7.3.5
B
Shade change Class 4 min
C
Staining Class 4 min
E
Perspiration (acid phase) 7.3.6
B
Shade change Class 4 min
C
Staining Class 3 mi
...