ASTM D3996-23

Standard Performance Specification for Knit Swimwear Fabrics

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.  
5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller.  
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3996 except for the following characteristic(s).”  
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.  
5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified test methods.
SCOPE
1.1 This performance specification covers circular and warp knitted fabrics for use in knit swimwear, composed of any textile fiber or mixture of textile fibers.  
1.2 These requirements apply to both the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.  
1.3 The following precautionary statement pertains only to the test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification. This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 31-Dec-2022
• ICS: 61.020 - Clothes
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.61 - Apparel

Relations

• Refers: ASTM D3787-16(2020) - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2020
• Refers: ASTM D123-17 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Mar-2017
• Refers: ASTM D3787-16 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
• Effective Date: 01-Jan-2016
• Refers: ASTM D123-15b - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Sep-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-15a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Sep-2015
• Refers: ASTM D3787-15 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2015
• Refers: ASTM D6797-15 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Fabrics Constant-Rate-of-Extension (CRE) Ball Burst Test (Withdrawn 2024)
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-15 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Apr-2015
• Refers: ASTM D7022-13 - Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel
• Effective Date: 01-Oct-2013
• Refers: ASTM D7022-13e1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel
• Effective Date: 01-Oct-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13ae1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jun-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jun-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-May-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-12e1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Feb-2012
• Refers: ASTM D123-12 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Feb-2012

Overview

ASTM D3996-23: Standard Performance Specification for Knit Swimwear Fabrics provides a comprehensive set of requirements for circular and warp knitted fabrics used in the manufacture of swimwear. Developed by ASTM International, this standard ensures quality, durability, and performance consistency for swimwear fabrics made from any textile fiber or blends, covering both length and width directions where relevant. The specification is designed to be applied upon mutual agreement between purchaser and seller, offering flexibility for fashion-driven variations while setting clear guidelines for key fabric properties.

Key Topics

• Scope and Applicability

  • Covers all textile fibers and mixtures intended for circular and warp knitted swimwear fabrics.
  • Applicable to fabrics in both length and width, ensuring comprehensive performance assessment.

• Performance Requirements

  • Sets measurable requirements for bursting strength, dimensional changes after laundering, wet and dry relaxation, and growth.
  • Mandates colorfastness to various exposures such as light, ozone, sea water, chlorinated pool water, laundering, crocking, perspiration, and different types of bleaches.

• Flammability

  • Specifies compliance with applicable government flammability standards (e.g., 16 CFR 1610) to ensure garment safety.

• Terminology and Referenced Test Methods

  • Draws on standardized definitions and testing methods from ASTM and AATCC, supporting consistency and reliability across the textile industry.
  • Cites key documents such as ASTM D3786, D3787, D6797, AATCC TM8, TM15, TM16.3, TM23, TM61, TM106, TM107, TM116, TM129, TM135, TM162, TM172, and TM188.

• Customization and Prepurchase Agreements

  • Provides for mutual modification of specific requirements to suit fashion trends or consumer preferences.
  • If no prior agreement exists, the specification serves as a guiding reference for performance expectations.

Applications

Knit swimwear fabrics governed by ASTM D3996-23 are widely used in:

• Swimsuits and Competition Swimwear: Ensures fabrics withstand repeated exposure to water, sun, and movement for professional and recreational uses.
• Surf and Sunsport Apparel: Provides confidence in dimensional stability and color retention for garments exposed to harsh, chlorinated, or salty conditions.
• Children’s and Active Swimwear: Mandates compliance with safety and flammability requirements to protect vulnerable user groups.
• Fashion Swimwear: Offers flexibility in modifying performance criteria according to design needs while maintaining baseline quality standards.

The standard supports manufacturers, brands, and buyers seeking to deliver reliable, long-lasting swimwear products in global markets. By adhering to ASTM D3996-23, companies can ensure enhanced consumer satisfaction through durable, safe, and visually appealing swimwear textiles.

Related Standards

For comprehensive quality assurance, users of ASTM D3996-23 may also reference:

• ASTM D123 - Terminology Relating to Textiles
• ASTM D2905 - Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens for Textiles
• ASTM D3786, D3787, D6797 - Methods for Testing Bursting Strength of Textile Fabrics
• AATCC Test Methods - Including TM8 (Crocking), TM16.3 (Colorfastness to Light), TM61 (Laundering), TM162 (Chlorinated Pool Water), TM129 (Ozone)
• Federal Regulation 16 CFR 1610 - Standard for Flammability of Clothing Textiles

Aligning with ASTM D3996-23 helps swimwear manufacturers and fabric suppliers consistently meet industry benchmarks for fabric performance, colorfastness, dimensional stability, and safety, promoting quality and regulatory compliance in the textile and apparel sector.

Standards Content (Sample)

This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D3996 − 23
Standard Performance Specification for
Knit Swimwear Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3996; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel (Withdrawn 2022)
2.2 AATCC Methods:
1.1 This performance specification covers circular and warp
TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method
knitted fabrics for use in knit swimwear, composed of any
TM15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
textile fiber or mixture of textile fibers.
TM16.3 Colorfastness to Light
1.2 These requirements apply to both the length and width
TM23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
directions for those properties where fabric direction is perti-
TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated
nent.
TM106 Colorfastness to Water: Sea
1.3 The following precautionary statement pertains only to
TM107 Colorfastness to Water
the test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification. This
TM116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crock-
standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,
meter Method
if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user
TM129 Colorfastness to Ozone in the Atmosphere Under
of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and
High Humidities
environmental practices and determine the applicability of
TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laun-
regulatory limitations prior to use.
dering
1.4 This international standard was developed in accor-
TM162 Colorfastness to Water Chlorinated Pool
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
TM172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Home Laundering
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
TM188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
Home Laundering
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
EP1 Gray Scale for Color Change
EP2 Gray Scale for Staining
2. Referenced Documents
EP8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale
2.1 ASTM Standards: 5
2.3 Federal Standard:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
16 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Tex-
D2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens for
tiles
Textiles (Withdrawn 2008)
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this specification give only the
D3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile
permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test
Fabrics—Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method
methods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.
D3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—
Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
3. Terminology
D6797 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Fabrics
3.1 For all terminology related to D13.61, Apparel, see
Constant-Rate-of-Extension (CRE) Ball Burst Test
Terminology D7022.
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:
This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee
swimwear.
D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on
3.2 For definitions of all other textile terms, see Terminol-
Apparel.
Current edition approved Jan. 1, 2023. Published August 2023. Originally
ogy D123.
approved in 1981. Last previous edition approved in 2014 as D3996 – 14. DOI:
10.1520/D3996-23.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http://
the ASTM website. www.aatcc.org.
3 5
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,
www.astm.org. Washington, DC 20407.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D3996 − 23
3.3 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing, 5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached
refer to specific AATCC methods. between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of
controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to
4. Specification Requirements
be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer
demands dictate varying performance parameters for any
4.1 The properties of fabrics for knitted swimwear shall
particular style of fabric.
conform to the specification requirements in Table 1.
5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and test
5. Significance and Use
methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the
specified test methods.
5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the
seller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the
6. Sampling
requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.
6.1 Acceptance Testing Lot—Unless there is prior agreement
5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics
consider as a lot for acceptance testing all material of a single
the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may
item received as a single shipment.
find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the
requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the
6.2 Lot Samples and Laboratory Samples— For acceptance
requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutual testing, take lot samples and laboratory samples as directed in
agreement between the purchaser and the seller. each of the applicable test methods.
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall
6.3 Test Specimens—Take the number of specimens directed
specify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3996
in each of the applicable test methods. Perform the tests on the
except for the following characteristic(s).”
fabric as it will reach the customer. Any “partially finished” or
“post-finished” fabrics should be processed in accordance with
the fabric manufacturer’s instructions.
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements
6.4 If the applicable test method does not specify the
number of specimens, use the procedures in Practice D2905 to
NOTE 1—The grades of colorfa
...

This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation: D3996 − 14 D3996 − 23
Standard Performance Specification for
Knit Swimwear Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3996; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This performance specification covers circular and warp knitted fabrics for use in knit swimwear, composed of any textile fiber
or mixture of textile fibers.
1.2 These requirements apply to both the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.
1.3 The following precautionary statement pertains only to the test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification.This
standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user
of this standard to establish appropriate safety and healthsafety, health, and environmental practices and determine the
applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization
established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued
by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens for Textiles (Withdrawn 2008)
D3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile Fabrics—Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method
D3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
D6797 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Fabrics Constant-Rate-of-Extension (CRE) Ball Burst Test
3 3
D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel (Withdrawn 2022)
2.2 AATCC Methods:
8TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method
15TM15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
16.3TM16.3 Colorfastness to Light
23TM23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
61TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated
106TM106 Colorfastness to Water: Sea
107TM107 Colorfastness to Water
116TM116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method
This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved March 15, 2014Jan. 1, 2023. Published April 2014August 2023. Originally approved in 1981. Last previous edition approved in 20132014 as
D3996 – 13. DOI: 10.1520/D3996-14.14. DOI: 10.1520/D3996-23.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http://www.aatcc.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D3996 − 23
129TM129 Colorfastness to Ozone in the Atmosphere Under High Humidities
135TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Laundering
Evaluation Procedure No. 1 Gray Scale for Color Change
Evaluation Procedure No. 2 Gray Scale for Staining
Evaluation Procedure No. 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale
162TM162 Colorfastness to Water Chlorinated Pool
172TM172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
188TM188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering
EP1 Gray Scale for Color Change
EP2 Gray Scale for Staining
EP8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale
2.3 Federal Standard:
16 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Textiles
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this specification give only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test methods. The
current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.
3. Terminology
3.1 For all terminology related to D13.61, Apparel, see Terminology D7022.
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard: swimwear.
3.2 For definitions of all other textile terms, see Terminology D123.
3.3 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing, refer to specific AATCC methods.
4. Specification Requirements
4.1 The properties of fabrics for knitted swimwear shall conform to the specification requirements in Table 1.
5. Significance and Use
5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the
requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.
5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find
acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in
Table 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller.
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3996 except
for the following characteristic(s).”
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of controversy, the
requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying
performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.
5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified test
methods.
6. Sampling
6.1 Acceptance Testing Lot—Unless there is prior agreement consider as a lot for acceptance testing all material of a single item
received as a single shipment.
Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20407.
D3996 − 23
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements
NOTE 1—The grades of colorfastness and SA rating are based on a
numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, or
wrinkle to 1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle.
Characteristic Requirements Section
Bursting strength (ball burst) 30 lbf (133 N), min 7.1
Dimensional change:
Laundering: 7.2.1
Nonstretch fabrics 5.0 % max in each direction
Stretch fabrics 7.5 % max in each direction
Wet relaxation or growth:
Stretch fabrics 10.0 % max in each direction
Dry relaxation or growth 5.0 % max in each direction
Colorfastness:
Burnt Gas Fumes—1 cycle: 7.3.1
A
Shade change, original fabric Grade 4 min
and after 1 laundering
A
Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4 min 7.3.10
A
Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 min 7.3.11
E
Laundering: 7.3.2
A
Shade change Grade 4 min
B
Staining Grade 3 min
E
Crocking: 7.3.3
C
Dry Grade 4 min
C
Wet Grade 3 min
E
Water: 7.3.4
A
Shade change Grade 4, min
B
Stainin
...