ISO 22195-1

Textiles — Determination of index ingredient from coloured textile — Part 1: Madder

This document specifies a test method which determines the index ingredient of chemicals in coloured fabric with madder.

Textiles — Détermination d'indicateurs d'ingrédients de textiles colorés — Partie 1: Garance

General Information

• Status: Not Published
• Publication Date: 02-Feb-2023
• ICS: 59.080.01 - Textiles in general
• Technical Committee: ISO/TC 38 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: ISO/TC 38 - Textiles
• Current Stage: 6060 - International Standard published
• Start Date: 03-Feb-2023
• Due Date: 26-Mar-2023
• Completion Date: 03-Feb-2023

Relations

• Revises: ISO 22195-1:2020 - Textiles — Determination of index ingredient from coloured textiles — Part 1: Madder
• Effective Date: 06-Jun-2022

Standards Content (Sample)

ISO/DISFDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Date:2022-11-01
ISO TC 38/WG31
Date: 2022-10-18

Textiles — Determination of index ingredient from coloured textile — Part 1: Madder

---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
ISO/DISFDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
© ISO 2022

All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation,

no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means,

electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on the internet or an intranet,

without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address

below or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
ISO copyright office
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
Phone: [phone]
Email: [e-mail]
Website: www.iso.orgwww.iso.org
Published in Switzerland
ii © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
---------------------- Page: 2 ----------------------
ISO/DISFDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Contents

Foreword ..................................................................................................................................................................... iv

Introduction ................................................................................................................................................................. v

1 Scope ................................................................................................................................................................ 1

2 Normative references ................................................................................................................................ 1

3 Terms and definitions ................................................................................................................................ 1

4 Principle ......................................................................................................................................................... 1

5 Reagent ........................................................................................................................................................... 2

6 Apparatus ....................................................................................................................................................... 2

7 Procedure ...................................................................................................................................................... 2

7.1 Standard preparation ................................................................................................................................ 2

7.2 Preparation of test specimen ................................................................................................................... 2

7.3 Analysis ........................................................................................................................................................... 3

7.4 Determination and calculation ............................................................................................................... 3

7.4.1 Determination of alizarin ......................................................................................................................... 3

7.4.2 Calibration curve ......................................................................................................................................... 3

7.4.3 Calculation of alizarin ................................................................................................................................ 3

8 Test report ..................................................................................................................................................... 3

Annex A (informative) Example of test result .................................................................................................. 5

A.1 Analysis of madder colourant ................................................................................................................. 5

A.1.1 General ............................................................................................................................................................ 5

A.1.2 Chromatographic conditions for the LC-MS ........................................................................................ 5

A.1.3 Chromatographic conditions for the HPLC-DAD ............................................................................... 6

A.1.4 Chromatographic conditions for the GC-MS ........................................................................................ 6

A.2 Analysis of coloured fabric with madder colourant ......................................................................... 7

A.2.1 Chromatographic conditions for the LC-MS ........................................................................................ 7

A.2.2 Determination example of index ingredient of madder colourant from coloured

fabric ................................................................................................................................................................ 8

© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved iii
---------------------- Page: 3 ----------------------
ISO/DISFDIS 22195-1:2022(E)

A.2.3 Chromatographic conditions for the GC-MS ........................................................................................ 8

A.2.4 Determination example of index ingredient of madder colourant from coloured

fabric ................................................................................................................................................................ 9

Foreword ..................................................................................................................................................................... iv

Introduction ................................................................................................................................................................. v

1 Scope ................................................................................................................................................................ 1

2 Normative references ................................................................................................................................. 1

3 Terms and definitions ................................................................................................................................ 1

4 Principle ......................................................................................................................................................... 2

5 Reagent ........................................................................................................................................................... 2

6 Apparatus ....................................................................................................................................................... 2

7 Procedure ....................................................................................................................................................... 2

7.1 Standard preparation ................................................................................................................................. 2

7.2 Preparation of test specimen ................................................................................................................... 2

7.3 Analysis ........................................................................................................................................................... 3

7.4 Determination and calculation ............................................................................................................... 3

7.4.1 Determination of alizarin.......................................................................................................................... 3

7.4.2 Calibration curve ......................................................................................................................................... 3

7.4.3 Calculation of alizarin ................................................................................................................................ 3

8 Test report ..................................................................................................................................................... 3

Annex A (informative) Example of test result ................................................................................................. 5

iv © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
---------------------- Page: 4 ----------------------
ISO/DISFDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Foreword

ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national

standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally

carried out through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a

technical committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee.

International organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in

the work. ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all

matters of electrotechnical standardization.

The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are

described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the

different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the

editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directiveswww.iso.org/directives).

Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of

patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of

any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or

on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patentswww.iso.org/patents).

Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not

constitute an endorsement.

For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and

expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to the

World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) see

www.iso.org/iso/foreword.htmlwww.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles.

This second edition cancels and replaces the first edition (ISO 22195-1:2020), which has been

technically revised.
The main changes are as follows:
— changed extraction solvent from co-solvent to single organic solvent;

— added GC-MS analysis method for the detection and qualification of index material.

A list of all parts in the ISO 22195 series can be found on the ISO website.

Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A

complete listing of these bodies can be found at
www.iso.org/members.htmlwww.iso.org/members.html.
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved v
---------------------- Page: 5 ----------------------
ISO/DISFDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Introduction

There is no doubt that dyeing plays the most important role in expressing the colour of clothes. Until

the invention of synthetic dyes capable of expressing diverse colours, materials obtained from nature to

dye fabric have been used. Typically, colourants were obtained from plants or various materials were

extracted from minerals or insects. When dyeing fabrics using materials derived from these natural

substances, it becomes necessary to identify which substances the colourant was derived from. In other

words, there has been a demand to confirm whether a fabric is dyed using a natural substance.

A test method is developed to identify which types of natural substances have been used.

vi © ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
---------------------- Page: 6 ----------------------
FINAL DRAFT INTERNATIONAL
...

FINAL
INTERNATIONAL ISO/FDIS
DRAFT
STANDARD 22195-1
ISO/TC 38
Textiles — Determination of index
Secretariat: SAC
ingredient from coloured textile —
Voting begins on:
2022-11-15
Part 1:
Voting terminates on:
Madder
2023-01-10
RECIPIENTS OF THIS DRAFT ARE INVITED TO
SUBMIT, WITH THEIR COMMENTS, NOTIFICATION
OF ANY RELEVANT PATENT RIGHTS OF WHICH
THEY ARE AWARE AND TO PROVIDE SUPPOR TING
DOCUMENTATION.
IN ADDITION TO THEIR EVALUATION AS
Reference number
BEING ACCEPTABLE FOR INDUSTRIAL, TECHNO-
ISO/FDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
LOGICAL, COMMERCIAL AND USER PURPOSES,
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS MAY ON
OCCASION HAVE TO BE CONSIDERED IN THE
LIGHT OF THEIR POTENTIAL TO BECOME STAN-
DARDS TO WHICH REFERENCE MAY BE MADE IN
NATIONAL REGULATIONS. © ISO 2022
---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
FINAL
INTERNATIONAL ISO/FDIS
DRAFT
STANDARD 22195-1
ISO/TC 38
Textiles — Determination of index
Secretariat: SAC
ingredient from coloured textile —
Voting begins on:
Part 1:
Voting terminates on:
Madder
COPYRIGHT PROTECTED DOCUMENT
© ISO 2022

All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication may

be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on

the internet or an intranet, without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address below

or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
RECIPIENTS OF THIS DRAFT ARE INVITED TO
ISO copyright office
SUBMIT, WITH THEIR COMMENTS, NOTIFICATION
OF ANY RELEVANT PATENT RIGHTS OF WHICH
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
THEY ARE AWARE AND TO PROVIDE SUPPOR TING
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
DOCUMENTATION.
Phone: [phone]
IN ADDITION TO THEIR EVALUATION AS
Reference number
Email: [e-mail]
BEING ACCEPTABLE FOR INDUSTRIAL, TECHNO-
ISO/FDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Website: www.iso.org
LOGICAL, COMMERCIAL AND USER PURPOSES,
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARDS MAY ON
Published in Switzerland
OCCASION HAVE TO BE CONSIDERED IN THE
LIGHT OF THEIR POTENTIAL TO BECOME STAN-
DARDS TO WHICH REFERENCE MAY BE MADE IN
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
NATIONAL REGULATIONS. © ISO 2022
---------------------- Page: 2 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Contents Page

Foreword ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................iv

Introduction .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................v

1 Scope ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 1

2 Normative references ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 1

3 Terms and definitions .................................................................................................................................................................................... 1

4 Principle ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 2

5 Reagent ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 2

6 Apparatus .................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 2

7 Procedure ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................2

7.1 Standard preparation ....................................................................................................................................................................... 2

7.2 Preparation of test specimen ..................................................................................................................................................... 2

7.3 Analysis ......................................................................................................................................................................................................... 3

7.4 Determination and calculation ................................................................................................................................................ 3

7.4.1 Determination of alizarin ........................................................................................................................................... 3

7.4.2 Calibration curve................................................................................................................................................................ 3

7.4.3 Calculation of alizarin .................................................................................................................................................... 3

8 Test report .................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 4

Annex A (informative) Example of test result ............................................................................................................................................ 5

iii
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
---------------------- Page: 3 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Foreword

ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards

bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out

through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical

committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International

organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.

ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of

electrotechnical standardization.

The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are

described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the

different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the

editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).

Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of

patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of

any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or

on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).

Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not

constitute an endorsement.

For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and

expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to

the World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) see

www.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles.

This second edition cancels and replaces the first edition (ISO 22195-1:2020), which has been technically

revised.
The main changes are as follows:
— changed extraction solvent from co-solvent to single organic solvent;

— added GC-MS analysis method for the detection and qualification of index material.

A list of all parts in the ISO 22195 series can be found on the ISO website.

Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A

complete listing of these bodies can be found at www.iso.org/members.html.
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
---------------------- Page: 4 ----------------------
ISO/FDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Introduction

There is no doubt that dyeing plays the most important role in expressing the colour of clothes. Until

the invention of synthetic dyes capable of expressing diverse colours, materials obtained from nature

to dye fabric have been used. Typically, colourants were obtained from plants or various materials were

extracted from minerals or insects. When dyeing fabrics using materials derived from these natural

substances, it becomes necessary to identify which substances the colourant was derived from. In other

words, there has been a demand to confirm whether a fabric is dyed using a natural substance.

A test method is developed to identify which types of natural substances have been used.

© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
---------------------- Page: 5 ----------------------
FINAL DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO/FDIS 22195-1:2022(E)
Textiles — Determination of index ingredient from
coloured textile —
Part 1:
Madder
1 Scope

This document specifies a test method which determines the index ingredient of chemicals in coloured

fabric with madder.
2 Normative references

The following document is referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content

constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For

undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.

ISO 3696, Water for analytical laboratory use — Specification and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.

ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:

— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https:// www .iso .org/ obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at https:// www .electropedia .org/
3.1
madder
common name for Rubia which is a genus of flowerin
...