SIST EN 17520:2022
(Main)Mountaineering equipment - Personal belay lanyards - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Personal belay lanyards - Safety requirements and test methods
This standard applies to lanyards intended to be the primary connection between the climber and the belay
stance.
NOTE: lanyards intended only for positioning are not covered by this standard (e.g. daisy chain).
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Selbstsicherungsverbindungsmittel - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Dieses Dokument gilt für Verbindungsmittel, die als primäre Verbindung zwischen dem Bergsteiger und dem Standplatz vorgesehen sind und die Fähigkeit besitzen, einer dynamischen Einwirkung standzuhalten.
ANMERKUNG Verbindungsmittel, die ausschließlich zur Positionierung oder für Seilgärten vorgesehen sind, werden von diesem Dokument nicht abgedeckt (z. B. Daisy Chain).
Équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Longes d’auto-assurage - Exigences et méthodes d’essai
Le présent document s’applique aux longes destinées à constituer la connexion primaire entre le grimpeur et le relais, avec la capacité de supporter un choc dynamique.
NOTE Les longes destinées uniquement au maintien ou aux parcours acrobatiques en hauteur ne sont pas couvertes par le présent document (par exemple, daisy chain).
Gorniška oprema - Popkovine - Zahteve in preskusne metode
Ta standard se uporablja za vrvi z zaključno zanko, ki so namenjene povezavi plezalca z varovališčem.
OPOMBA: Vrvi z zaključno zanko, namenjene zgolj za namestitev uporabnika, v tem standardu niso zajete (npr. popkovina).
General Information
Standards Content (Sample)
SLOVENSKI STANDARD
SIST EN 17520:2022
01-februar-2022
Gorniška oprema - Popkovine - Zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Personal belay lanyards - Safety requirements and test
methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Selbstsicherungsverbindungsmittel - Sicherheitstechnische
Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Longes d’auto-assurage - Exigences et
méthodes d’essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 17520:2021
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
SIST EN 17520:2022 en,fr,de
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.
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SIST EN 17520:2022
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SIST EN 17520:2022
EN 17520
EUROPEAN STANDARD
NORME EUROPÉENNE
November 2021
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 97.220.40
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Personal belay lanyards -
Safety requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Longes d'auto- Bergsteigerausrüstung -
assurage - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Selbstsicherungsverbindungsmittel -
Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 17 October 2021.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this
European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references
concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN
member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and
United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2021 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 17520:2021 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
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SIST EN 17520:2022
EN 17520:2021 (E)
Contents Page
European foreword . 3
Introduction . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 5
4 Safety requirements . 6
4.1 Design and ergonomics . 6
4.2 Dynamic test . 6
4.3 Slippage test . 7
5 Test methods . 7
5.1 General. 7
5.2 Performance of dynamic test . 7
5.2.1 Test samples . 7
5.2.2 Conditioning and tests conditions . 7
5.2.3 Measurement of the maximum length L . 7
5.2.4 Apparatus for the dynamic strength test . 8
5.2.5 Dynamic strength test . 8
5.3 Slippage test for adjustable personal belay lanyard . 8
5.3.1 Conditioning and test conditions . 8
5.3.2 Determination of slippage . 9
6 Marking . 9
7 Manufacturer's instructions and information. 9
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 11
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the essential
requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 aimed to be covered . 13
2
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SIST EN 17520:2022
EN 17520:2021 (E)
European foreword
This document (EN 17520:2021) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,
playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an
identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by May 2022, and conflicting national standards shall be
withdrawn at the latest by May 2022.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document has been prepared under a Standardization Request given to CEN by the European
Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU
Regulation(s).
For relationship with EU Regulation(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this
document.
Any feedback and questions on this document should be directed to the users’ national standards body.
A complete listing of these bodies can be found on the CEN website.
According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organisations of the
following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia,
Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland,
Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of North
Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United
Kingdom.
3
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SIST EN 17520:2022
EN 17520:2021 (E)
Introduction
The text of this document is based on the former UIAA-Standard 109:2018 (Union Internationale des
Associations d'Alpinisme/ International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation), which was developed
with international participation.
This document is part of a series of standards on mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
4
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SIST EN 17520:2022
EN 17520:2021 (E)
1 Scope
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for lanyards intended to be the primary
connection between the climber and the belay stance with the ability to withstand a dynamic impact.
Lanyards intended only for positioning (e.g. daisy chain) or energy absorption in via ferrata or lanyards
for rope courses are not covered by this document.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN 362:2004, Personal protective equipment against falls from a height — Connectors
EN 892:2012+A1:2016, Mountaineering equipment — Dynamic mountaineering ropes — Safety
requirements and test methods
EN 12275:2013, Mountaineering equipment — Connectors — Safety requirements and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— IEC Electropedia: available at https://www.electropedia.org/
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https://www.iso.org/obp
3.1
personal belay lanyard
flexible connecting element able to absorb energy in case of fall, with at least two connecting points, used
to connect the user's harness to the belay stance and if relevant to a climbing device (e. g. descender,
progress capture device)
3.2
adjustable personal belay lanyard
personal belay lanyard whose length is intended to be adjusted using the manufacturer’s instructions and
information
3.3
multi-arms personal belay lanyard
personal belay lanyard with a maximum of two arms fitted with connecting points, one or both arms may
be adjustable
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1 for an example.
5
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SIST EN 17520:2022
EN 17520:2021 (E)
Key
1 Arms
2 Connecting points
3 Connecting point to be connected to the harness
Figure 1 — Example of multi-arms personal belay lanyard
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Design and ergonomics
4.1.1 When checked in accordance with 5.1, the personal belay lanyard shall not have sharp edges or
burrs that could cause injury to the user or that could cut, abrade or otherwise cause damage to the
personal belay lanyard itself.
4.1.2 The adjustable personal belay lanyard has to be fitted with a permanent end stop which shall
prevent unintentional detachment of the length adjustment device from the personal belay lanyard.
Check in accordance with 5.1.
4.1.3 When the personal belay lanyard is provided with a connector intended to be attached to the
belay stance, this connector shall be fitted with a gate-locking device and conform to EN 12275:2013
Class T and/or EN 362:2004 Class T or Class M. For any other class the connector shall be provided with
a component that ensures that the connector is loaded only along its major axis.
4.1.4 When checked in accordance with 5.1 where stitching providing safety and strength could be
subject to abrasion, the stitching shall contrast in colour with the personal belay lanyard material.
4.1.5 When checked in accordance with 5.1, the markings shall be perfectly visible and remain so
throughout the foreseeable useful life of personal belay lanyards.
4.2 Dynamic test
When tested in accordance with 5.2, the personal belay lanyard shall not relea
...
SLOVENSKI STANDARD
oSIST prEN 17520:2020
01-julij-2020
Gorniška oprema - Vrvi z zaključno samozaporno zanko - Zahteve in preskusne
metode
Mountaineering equipment - Self-belaying lanyards - Requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Selbstsichernde Verbindungsmittel - Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Longes d’auto-assurage - Exigences et
méthodes d’essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: prEN 17520
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
oSIST prEN 17520:2020 en,fr,de
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.
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oSIST prEN 17520:2020
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oSIST prEN 17520:2020
DRAFT
EUROPEAN STANDARD
prEN 17520
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
May 2020
ICS 97.220.40
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Self-belaying lanyards -
Requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Longes d'auto- Bergsteigerausrüstung - Selbstsichernde
assurage - Exigences et méthodes d'essai Verbindungsmittel - Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
This draft European Standard is submitted to CEN members for enquiry. It has been drawn up by the Technical Committee
CEN/TC 136.
If this draft becomes a European Standard, CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations
which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration.
This draft European Standard was established by CEN in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other
language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC
Management Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and
United Kingdom.
Recipients of this draft are invited to submit, with their comments, notification of any relevant patent rights of which they are
aware and to provide supporting documentation.
Warning : This document is not a European Standard. It is distributed for review and comments. It is subject to change without
notice and shall not be referred to as a European Standard.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2020 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. prEN 17520:2020 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
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oSIST prEN 17520:2020
prEN 17520:2020 (E)
Contents Page
European foreword . 3
Introduction . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 5
4 Safety requirements . 6
4.1 Design and ergonomics . 6
4.2 Dynamic test . 6
4.3 Slippage test . 7
5 Test methods . 7
5.1 General . 7
5.2 Dynamic test . 7
5.2.1 Test samples . 7
5.2.2 Conditioning and tests conditions . 7
5.2.3 Measurement of the maximum length . 7
5.2.4 Apparatus . 7
5.2.5 Dynamic strength test . 8
5.3 Slippage test for adjustable personal belay lanyard . 8
5.3.1 Conditioning and test conditions . 8
5.3.2 Determination of slippage . 8
6 Markings . 9
7 Manufacturer's instructions and information . 9
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 11
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the essential
requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 aimed to be covered . 13
2
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oSIST prEN 17520:2020
prEN 17520:2020 (E)
European foreword
This document (prEN 17520:2020) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,
playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This document is currently submitted to the CEN Enquiry.
3
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oSIST prEN 17520:2020
prEN 17520:2020 (E)
Introduction
The text of this document is based on the former UIAA-Standard 109:2018 (Union Internationale des
Associations d'Alpinisme/International mountaineering and climbing federation), which was developed
with international participation.
This document is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
4
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oSIST prEN 17520:2020
prEN 17520:2020 (E)
1 Scope
This document applies to lanyards intended to be the primary connection between the climber and the
belay stance with the ability of withstanding a dynamic impact.
NOTE Lanyards intended only for positioning or for rope courses are not covered by this document (e.g. daisy
chain).
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN 892, Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and test
methods
EN 12275, Mountaineering equipment - Connectors - Safety requirements and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at http://www.iso.org/obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at http://www.electropedia.org/
3.1
personal belay lanyard
flexible connecting element able to absorb energy in case of fall, with at least two connecting points,
used to connect the user's harness to the belay stance and possibly to a climbing device
3.2
adjustable personal belay lanyard
belay lanyard whose length is intended to be adjusted using the manufacturer’s instructions and
information
3.3
multi-arms personal belay lanyard
personal belay lanyard with a maximum of two arms fitted with connecting points, one or both arms
may be adjustable
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1 for an example.
5
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oSIST prEN 17520:2020
prEN 17520:2020 (E)
Key
1 Arm
2 Connecting points
3 Connecting point to be connected to the harness
Figure 1 — Example of multi-arms personal belay lanyard
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Design and ergonomics
4.1.1 When checked in accordance with 5.1, the personal belay lanyard shall not have sharp edges or
burrs that may cause injury to the user or that may cut, abrade or otherwise cause damage to the
personal belay lanyard itself.
4.1.2 When checked in accordance with 5.1, the adjustable personal belay lanyard shall be fitted with
an end stop which shall prevent unintentional detachment of the length adjustment device from the
personal belay lanyard.
4.1.3 The personal belay lanyard shall be connected to the harness as specified in the manufacturer's
instructions and information.
4.1.4 When the personal belay lanyard is provided with a connector intended to be attached to the
belay stance, this connector shall be fitted with a gate-locking device and conform to EN 12275. It shall
be Class T or provided with a component that ensures that the connector is loaded only along its major
axis.
4.1.5 When checked in accordance with 5.1 where stitching providing safety and strength may be
subject to abrasion, it shall contrast in colour with the personal belay lanyard material.
4.2 Dynamic test
When tested in accordance with 5.2, the personal belay lanyard shall not release the mass. The peak
force of the first fall shall be less than 10 kN.
If the personal belay lanyard has a fall indicator as claimed by the manufacturer, check after the last fall
that the fall indicator is activated.
NOTE The risk of a fall on two arms, which would increase the impact force, has
...
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