EN 17520:2021
(Main)Mountaineering equipment - Personal belay lanyards - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Personal belay lanyards - Safety requirements and test methods
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for lanyards intended to be the primary connection between the climber and the belay stance with the ability to withstand a dynamic impact. Lanyards intended only for positioning (e.g. daisy chain) or energy absorption in via ferrata or lanyards for rope courses are not covered by this document.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Selbstsicherungsverbindungsmittel - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Dieses Dokument legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Verbindungsmittel fest, die als primäre Verbindung zwischen dem Bergsteiger und dem Standplatz vorgesehen sind und die Fähigkeit besitzen, einer dynamischen Einwirkung standzuhalten. Verbindungsmittel, die ausschließlich zur Positionierung (z. B. Daisy Chain) oder zur Energieaufnahme im Klettersteig oder für Seilgärten vorgesehen sind, werden von diesem Dokument nicht abgedeckt.
Équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Longes d’auto-assurage - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d’essai
Le présent document spécifie les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d’essai relatives aux longes destinées à constituer la connexion primaire entre le grimpeur et le relais, avec la capacité de supporter un choc dynamique. Les longes destinées uniquement au maintien (par exemple, daisy chain), à l’absorption d’énergie en via ferrata ou les longes sur des parcours acrobatiques en hauteur ne sont pas couvertes par le présent document.
Gorniška oprema - Popkovine - Zahteve in preskusne metode
Ta standard se uporablja za vrvi z zaključno zanko, ki so namenjene povezavi plezalca z varovališčem.
OPOMBA: Vrvi z zaključno zanko, namenjene zgolj za namestitev uporabnika, v tem standardu niso zajete (npr. popkovina).
General Information
Standards Content (Sample)
SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-februar-2022
Gorniška oprema - Popkovine - Zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Personal belay lanyards - Safety requirements and test
methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Selbstsicherungsverbindungsmittel - Sicherheitstechnische
Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Longes d’auto-assurage - Exigences et
méthodes d’essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 17520:2021
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.
EN 17520
EUROPEAN STANDARD
NORME EUROPÉENNE
November 2021
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 97.220.40
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Personal belay lanyards -
Safety requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Longes d'auto- Bergsteigerausrüstung -
assurage - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Selbstsicherungsverbindungsmittel -
Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 17 October 2021.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this
European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references
concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN
member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and
United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2021 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 17520:2021 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
Contents Page
European foreword . 3
Introduction . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 5
4 Safety requirements . 6
4.1 Design and ergonomics . 6
4.2 Dynamic test . 6
4.3 Slippage test . 7
5 Test methods . 7
5.1 General. 7
5.2 Performance of dynamic test . 7
5.2.1 Test samples . 7
5.2.2 Conditioning and tests conditions . 7
5.2.3 Measurement of the maximum length L . 7
5.2.4 Apparatus for the dynamic strength test . 8
5.2.5 Dynamic strength test . 8
5.3 Slippage test for adjustable personal belay lanyard . 8
5.3.1 Conditioning and test conditions . 8
5.3.2 Determination of slippage . 9
6 Marking . 9
7 Manufacturer's instructions and information. 9
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 11
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the essential
requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 aimed to be covered . 13
European foreword
This document (EN 17520:2021) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,
playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an
identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by May 2022, and conflicting national standards shall be
withdrawn at the latest by May 2022.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document has been prepared under a Standardization Request given to CEN by the European
Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU
Regulation(s).
For relationship with EU Regulation(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this
document.
Any feedback and questions on this document should be directed to the users’ national standards body.
A complete listing of these bodies can be found on the CEN website.
According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organisations of the
following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia,
Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland,
Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of North
Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United
Kingdom.
Introduction
The text of this document is based on the former UIAA-Standard 109:2018 (Union Internationale des
Associations d'Alpinisme/ International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation), which was developed
with international participation.
This document is part of a series of standards on mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
1 Scope
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for lanyards intended to be the primary
connection between the climber and the belay stance with the ability to withstand a dynamic impact.
Lanyards intended only for positioning (e.g. daisy chain) or energy absorption in via ferrata or lanyards
for rope courses are not covered by this document.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN 362:2004, Personal protective equipment against falls from a height — Connectors
EN 892:2012+A1:2016, Mountaineering equipment — Dynamic mountaineering ropes — Safety
requirements and test methods
EN 12275:2013, Mountaineering equipment — Connectors — Safety requirements and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— IEC Electropedia: available at https://www.electropedia.org/
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https://www.iso.org/obp
3.1
personal belay lanyard
flexible connecting element able to absorb energy in case of fall, with at least two connecting points, used
to connect the user's harness to the belay stance and if relevant to a climbing device (e. g. descender,
progress capture device)
3.2
adjustable personal belay lanyard
personal belay lanyard whose length is intended to be adjusted using the manufacturer’s instructions and
information
3.3
multi-arms personal belay lanyard
personal belay lanyard with a maximum of two arms fitted with connecting points, one or both arms may
be adjustable
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1 for an example.
Key
1 Arms
2 Connecting points
3 Connecting point to be connected to the harness
Figure 1 — Example of multi-arms personal belay lanyard
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Design and ergonomics
4.1.1 When checked in accordance with 5.1, the personal belay lanyard shall not have sharp edges or
burrs that could cause injury to the user or that could cut, abrade or otherwise cause damage to the
personal belay lanyard itself.
4.1.2 The adjustable personal belay lanyard has to be fitted with a permanent end stop which shall
prevent unintentional detachment of the length adjustment device from the personal belay lanyard.
Check in accordance with 5.1.
4.1.3 When the personal belay lanyard is provided with a connector intended to be attached to the
belay stance, this connector shall be fitted with a gate-locking device and conform to EN 12275:2013
Class T and/or EN 362:2004 Class T or Class M. For any other class the connector shall be provided with
a component that ensures that the connector is loaded only along its major axis.
4.1.4 When checked in accordance with 5.1 where stitching providing safety and strength could be
subject to abrasion, the stitching shall contrast in colour with the personal belay lanyard material.
4.1.5 When checked in accordance with 5.1, the markings shall be perfectly visible and remain so
throughout the foreseeable useful life of personal belay lanyards.
4.2 Dynamic test
When tested in accordance with 5.2, the personal belay lanyard shall not release the mass in any of the
three successive falls. The peak force of the first fall shall not exceed 10 kN.
If the personal belay lanyard has a fall indicator as claimed by the manufacturer, check after the first fall
that the fall indicator is activated.
NOTE The risk of a fall on two arms, which would increase the impact force, has been taken into account by the
limitation of the impact force to 10 kN on one single arm.
4.3 Slippage test
For adjustable personal belay lanyard the slippage shall not be more than 50 mm, when tested in
accordance with 5.3.
5 Test methods
5.1 General
Verify by reference to appropriate documentation and by visual and/or tactile examination of the
personal belay lanyard.
5.2 Performance of dynamic test
5.2.1 Test samples
For personal belay lanyards designed in different maximum lengths, test the longest and the shortest.
The three consecutive fall tests shall be carried out with the same sample.
For multi-arms personal belay lanyard, if arms are not identically designed, each arm shall be tested
individually with a new sample.
When testing an adjustable personal belay lanyard, position the adjustment device so that the personal
belay lanyard is tested at 80 % of its maximum length at the second fall.
5.2.2 Conditioning and tests conditions
Dry the test samples for at least 24 h in an atmosphere of (50 ± 5) °C and less than 20 % relative humidity.
Then condition these test samples in an atmosphere of (23 ± 2) °C and (50 ± 5) % relative humidity for
at least 72 h.
Then start testing these samples at a room temperature of (23 ± 5) °C within 5 min.
5.2.3 Measurement of the maximum length L
Attach both terminations of the sample as described in the manufacturer's instructions and information
to rigid bars of Ø (10 ± 0,2) mm. If the personal belay lanyard is adjustable, extend it to its maximum
length. Apply a load with a mass of (10 ± 0,1) kg, without shock by the means of a rigid bar of
Ø (10 ± 0,2) mm to the opposite termination. Maintain the load for (60 ± 5) s. Then within 15 s, with the
load still applied, measure the maximum length L, see Figure 2, of the personal belay lanyard between
the load bars in contact with the termination lanyard, in metres to the nearest 0,01 m.
For multi-arms personal belay lanyard, if arms are not identically designed, measure the maximum length
L of each arm.
Key
L Maximum length of arm 1 under load L Maximum length of arm 2 under load
1 2
Figure 2 — Example of maximum lengt
...
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