SIST EN 564:2023
(Main)Mountaineering equipment - Accessory cords - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Accessory cords - Safety requirements and test methods
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for accessory cords, supplied on a drum or in separate lengths, for use in mountaineering including climbing.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Reepschnur - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Dieses Dokument legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Reepschnüre fest, die auf Trommeln oder in separaten Längen angeboten und beim Bergsteigen einschließlich Klettern verwen¬det werden.
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordelettes - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
Le présent document spécifie les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d’essai relatives aux cordelettes, fournies sur bobines ou en longueurs séparées, utilisées en alpinisme et en escalade.
Gorniška oprema - Pomožne vrvi - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Ta dokument določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za pomožne vrvi, ki so dobavljene na bobnu ali v posameznih dolžinah, za uporabo v gorništvu, vključno s plezanjem.
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
SLOVENSKI STANDARD
SIST EN 564:2023
01-julij-2023
Nadomešča:
SIST EN 564:2015
Gorniška oprema - Pomožne vrvi - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Accessory cords - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Reepschnur - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordelettes - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes
d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 564:2023
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
SIST EN 564:2023 en,fr,de
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.
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SIST EN 564:2023
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SIST EN 564:2023
EN 564
EUROPEAN STANDARD
NORME EUROPÉENNE
April 2023
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 564:2014
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Accessory cords - Safety
requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordelettes - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Reepschnur -
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 25 December 2022.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this
European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references
concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN
member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and
United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2023 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 564:2023 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
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SIST EN 564:2023
EN 564:2023 (E)
Contents Page
European foreword . 3
1 Scope . 4
2 Normative references . 4
3 Terms and definitions . 4
4 Safety requirements . 4
4.1 Construction . 4
4.2 Diameter . 4
4.3 Tensile strength . 5
4.4 Performance of the knotted loop . 5
4.5 Mass per unit length . 6
5 Test methods . 6
5.1 Test sample . 6
5.2 Conditioning . 6
5.3 Diameter . 6
5.4 Determination of tensile strength . 6
5.5 Determination of the knotted loop performance . 7
5.6 Determination of mass per unit length . 7
6 Marking . 7
7 Manufacturer's instructions and information. 8
8 Packaging . 8
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 9
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the essential
requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 aimed to be covered . 11
2
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SIST EN 564:2023
EN 564:2023 (E)
European foreword
This document (EN 564:2023) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,
playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an
identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by October 2023 and conflicting national standards shall
be withdrawn at the latest by October 2023.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document will supersede EN 564:2014.
In comparison with the previous edition, the following technical modifications have been made:
a) nominal diameter 5,5 mm is introduced in 4.2;
b) new subclause 4.4 added regarding the performance of a knotted loop;
c) some additions in Clause 7 Manufacturer's instructions and information.
This document has been prepared under a Standardization Request given to CEN by the European
Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU
Directive(s) / Regulation(s).
For relationship with EU Directive(s) / Regulation(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part
of this document.
Any feedback and questions on this document should be directed to the users’ national standards body.
A complete listing of these bodies can be found on the CEN website.
According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the
following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia,
Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland,
Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of North
Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and the United
Kingdom.
3
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SIST EN 564:2023
EN 564:2023 (E)
1 Scope
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for accessory cords, supplied on a drum
or in separate lengths, for use in mountaineering including climbing.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN ISO 2307:2019, Fibre ropes — Determination of certain physical and mechanical properties (ISO
2307:2019)
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminology databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— IEC Electropedia: available at https://www.electropedia.org/
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https://www.iso.org/obp
3.1
accessory cord
cord that is intended to withstand forces, but not intended to absorb energy
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Construction
An accessory cord shall be made in a kernmantel construction and have a nominal diameter of 4 mm to
8 mm.
4.2 Diameter
The nominal diameter d shall be one of the values given in Table 1.
nom
and the given nominal diameter shall be in the range
The limit deviation between the effective value d
eff
+0,7
of mm.
−02,
For the nominal diameter of 5,5 mm, the deviation between the value on the given nominal diameter shall
+02,
be in the range of mm.
−02,
The effective diameter shall be determined according to 5.3.
4
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SIST EN 564:2023
EN 564:2023 (E)
Table 1 — Nominal diameter and minimum tensile strength
Nominal diameter Minimum tensile strength
d F
nom min
mm kN
4 3,2
5 5,0
5,5 6,1
6 7,2
7 9,8
8 12,8
4.3 Tensile strength
4.3.1 The tensile strength of the accessory cord shall be not less than the value of F , (see Table 1)
min
calculated using Formula (1) to one decimal place:
2
Fd × f (1)
min nom
where
d is the nominal diameter, in millimetres;
nom
2
f
is 200 N/mm .
4.3.2 The tensile strength shall be determined according to 5.4.
4.4 Performance of the knotted loop
The performance shall be determined according to 5.5 using one loop with an Overhand knot (see
Figure 1) and a second loop with a Double Fisherman’s knot (s
...
SLOVENSKI STANDARD
oSIST prEN 564:2022
01-marec-2022
Gorniška oprema - Pomožne vrvi - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Accessory cords - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Reepschnur - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordelettes - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes
d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: prEN 564
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
oSIST prEN 564:2022 en,fr,de
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.
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oSIST prEN 564:2022
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oSIST prEN 564:2022
DRAFT
EUROPEAN STANDARD
prEN 564
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
January 2022
ICS 97.220.40
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Accessory cords - Safety
requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordelettes - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Reepschnur -
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
This draft European Standard is submitted to CEN members for enquiry. It has been drawn up by the Technical Committee
CEN/TC 136.
If this draft becomes a European Standard, CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations
which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration.
This draft European Standard was established by CEN in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other
language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC
Management Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and
United Kingdom.
Recipients of this draft are invited to submit, with their comments, notification of any relevant patent rights of which they are
aware and to provide supporting documentation.
Warning : This document is not a European Standard. It is distributed for review and comments. It is subject to change without
notice and shall not be referred to as a European Standard.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2022 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. prEN 564:2022 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
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oSIST prEN 564:2022
prEN 564:2022 (E)
Contents Page
European foreword . 3
1 Scope . 4
2 Normative references . 4
3 Terms and definitions . 4
4 Safety requirements . 4
4.1 Construction . 4
4.2 Diameter . 4
4.3 Tensile strength . 5
4.4 Performance of the knotted loop . 5
4.5 Mass per unit length . 6
5 Test methods . 6
5.1 Test sample . 6
5.2 Conditioning . 6
5.3 Diameter . 6
5.4 Determination of tensile strength . 6
5.5 Determination of the knotted loop performance . 7
5.6 Determination of mass per unit length . 7
6 Marking . 7
7 Manufacturer's instructions and information. 8
8 Packaging . 8
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 9
2
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oSIST prEN 564:2022
prEN 564:2022 (E)
European foreword
This document (prEN 564:2022) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,
playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This document is currently submitted to the CEN Enquiry.
This document will supersede EN 564:2014.
In comparison with the previous edition, the following technical modifications have been made:
a) Nominal diameter 5,5 mm is introduced in 4.2;
b) New subclause 4.4 added regarding the performance of a knotted loop;
c) Some additions in Clause 7 Manufacturer's instructions and information.
This document has been prepared under a Standardization Request given to CEN by the European
Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU
Directive(s) / Regulation(s).
For relationship with EU Directive(s) / Regulation(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part
of this document.
3
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oSIST prEN 564:2022
prEN 564:2022 (E)
1 Scope
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for accessory cords, supplied on a drum
or in separate lengths, for use in mountaineering including climbing.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN ISO 2307:2019, Fibre ropes - Determination of certain physical and mechanical properties (ISO
2307:2019)
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— IEC Electropedia: available at https://www.electropedia.org/
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https://www.iso.org/obp
3.1
accessory cord
cord that is intended to withstand forces, but not intended to absorb energy
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Construction
An accessory cord shall be made in a kernmantel construction and have a nominal diameter of 4 mm to
8 mm.
4.2 Diameter
The nominal diameter d shall be one of the values given in Table 1.
nom
The limit deviation between the effective value d and the given nominal diameter shall be not more
eff
+7
mm.
than
−02,
For the nominal diameter of 5,5 mm, the deviation between the value on the given nominal diameter is
+02,
mm.
−02,
The effective diameter shall be determined according to 5.3.
4
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oSIST prEN 564:2022
prEN 564:2022 (E)
Table 1 — Nominal diameter and minimum tensile strength
Nominal diameter Minimum tensile strength
d F
nom Bmin
mm kN
4 3,2
5 5,0
5,5 6,1
6 7,2
7 9,8
8 12,8
4.3 Tensile strength
4.3.1 The tensile strength of the accessory cord shall be not less than the value of F , (see Table 1)
Bmin
calculated using Formula (1) to one decimal place:
2
Fd × f (1)
Bmin nom
where
d
is the nominal diameter, in millimetres;
nom
2
f
is 200 N/mm .
4.3.2 The tensile strength shall be determined according to 5.4.
4.4 Performance of the knotted loop
The performance shall be determined according to 5.5 using one loop with an Overhand knot (see
Figure 1) and a second loop with a Double Fisherman’s knot (see Figure 2). Additional knot(s) could be
tested if claimed by the manufacturer according to the manufacturer’s instructions and information. The
strength value is determined by either the breaking strength or the maximum slipping load. The
manufacturer shall provide the strength value of each knot tested as well as how to make the knot
according to Clause 7 f).
Figure 1 — Overhand knot
5
=
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