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ASTM D8394-21

(Test Method)

Standard Test Method for Automated Measurement of Maturity, Fineness, Ribbon Width, and Micronaire of Cotton Fibers

Standard Test Method for Automated Measurement of Maturity, Fineness, Ribbon Width, and Micronaire of Cotton Fibers

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Cotton fiber that is on average finer and more mature is more desirable than coarse or immature fiber, although distinction between these qualities cannot be made quickly and accurately using current test methods. Immature fibers break more easily during processing and have a tendency to form into neps (small entanglements) during processing in the spinning mill. These consequences adversely affect yarn and fabric quality and appearance. Yarn and fabric produced from immature fiber is typically also less lustrous and does not take up dye consistently so yarn and fabric appearance may be different after dyeing.  
5.2 Maturity has a high positive correlation with fiber length and strength but genetic differences and differences in fiber wall thickness caused by plant diseases, soil, and water conditions during the growing season interfere with this relationship.  
5.2.1 Fine fibers are required for fine count yarn manufacture and fiber fineness affects yarn count, evenness and strength. Both fineness and ribbon width are strong genetic traits evident between species and affected by growing conditions within species.  
5.2.2 Micronaire has traditionally been used as a measure of fiber fineness although the value actually measures fiber specific surface area or surface area per unit weight. As a result, micronaire varies concomitantly with both maturity and fineness (see Fig. 2). Maturity and fineness are related to micronaire via Lord’s equation.4
FIG. 2 Relationship Between Micronaire (X), Fineness (H), and Maturity (M)  
5.3 Cottonscope values have been judged against fineness, maturity and ribbon width values produced by examination of thousands of individual, magnified fiber cross-sections. Relationships with equivalent values by these and other older test methods are highly significant5,6 particularly if the number of cross-sections analyzed is high (>3000) and the cross-sections are carefully prepared and measured. Cottonscope measures approximately 20,...
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1.1 This test method covers the determination of linear density (gravimetric fineness hereafter stated as fineness), maturity, micronaire, and ribbon width of cotton fibers from a loose, chemically untreated sample taken before harvest, during ginning, during mill processing or unraveled from raw (undyed) yarn or fabric.  
1.2 This test method requires the use of an integrated instrument, for example, the Cottonscope (see Fig. 1), that measures the maturity, fineness, ribbon width, and micronaire of cotton fiber.2
FIG. 1 Cottonscope Instrument
Note 1: For another test method to determine the maturity of cotton fibers, refer to Test Method D1442.  
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. No other units of measurement are included in this standard.  
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

General Information

Status
Published
Publication Date
30-Jun-2021
ICS
59.060.10 - Natural fibres
Technical Committee
D13 - Textiles
Drafting Committee
D13.11 - Cotton Fibers
Current Stage
Ref Project

Relations

Refers
ASTM D1441-12(2020) - Standard Practice for Sampling Cotton Fibers for Testing
Effective Date
01-Jul-2020
Refers
ASTM D7139-20 - Standard Terminology for Cotton Fibers
Effective Date
01-Jul-2020

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ASTM D8394-21 - Standard Test Method for Automated Measurement of Maturity, Fineness, Ribbon Width, and Micronaire of Cotton FibersASTM D8394-21 - Standard Test Method for Automated Measurement of Maturity, Fineness, Ribbon Width, and Micronaire of Cotton Fibers
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ASTM D8394-21 - Standard Test Method for Automated Measurement of Maturity, Fineness, Ribbon Width, and Micronaire of Cotton Fibers
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This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D8394 − 21
Standard Test Method for
Automated Measurement of Maturity, Fineness, Ribbon
1
Width, and Micronaire of Cotton Fibers
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D8394; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision.Anumber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D1441Practice for Sampling Cotton Fibers for Testing
D1442Test Method for Maturity of Cotton Fibers (Sodium
1.1 This test method covers the determination of linear
Hydroxide Swelling and Polarized Light Procedures)
density (gravimetric fineness hereafter stated as fineness),
D1776Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
maturity, micronaire, and ribbon width of cotton fibers from a
D7139Terminology for Cotton Fibers
loose, chemically untreated sample taken before harvest, dur-
E691Practice for Conducting an Interlaboratory Study to
ing ginning, during mill processing or unraveled from raw
Determine the Precision of a Test Method
(undyed) yarn or fabric.
E177Practice for Use of the Terms Precision and Bias in
1.2 This test method requires the use of an integrated
ASTM Test Methods
instrument, for example, the Cottonscope (see Fig. 1), that
measures the maturity, fineness, ribbon width, and micronaire
3. Terminology
2
of cotton fiber.
NOTE 1—For another test method to determine the maturity of cotton 3.1 Definitions:
fibers, refer to Test Method D1442.
3.1.1 For all terminology relating to D13.11, Cotton Fibers,
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as
refer to Terminology D7139. The following terms are relevant
standard. No other units of measurement are included in this
to this standard; fineness, maturity, micronaire, ribbon width,
standard.
and snippet.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
3.1.2 fineness, gravimetric, n—the linear mass density of
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
fiber measured in millitex (mtex). Synonymous with linear
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
density (ASTM’s definition for linear density – mass per unit
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
length).
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
3.1.3 ribbon width, n—the distance measured in microns
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor-
(µm) across an individual cotton fiber width in longitudinal
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
section viewed under a polarized light microscope.
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
3.1.4 snippet, n—fibers cut into very short lengths of less
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
than 1 mm.
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
3.1.5 For all other terminology related to textiles, refer to
2. Referenced Documents
Terminology D123.
3
2.1 ASTM Standards:
4. Summary of Test Method
D123Terminology Relating to Textiles
4.1 Cotton fibers are cut into snippets no greater than 1 mm
1
ThistestmethodisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
using scissors, a guillotine or mechanical corer. The snippets
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.11 on Cotton Fibers.
areweighed,droppedintoawaterfilledbowlanddispersedby
Current edition approved July 1, 2021. Published September 2021. DOI:
10.1520/D8394-21.
a magnetic stirrer so that they spread randomly across the
2
The sole source of supply of the apparatus known to the committee at this time
instrument’sdigitalcameraviewingport.Twotothreedroplets
isCottonscopePty.Ltd.,13WillcockStreet,Ardross6153,WesternAustralia.Ifyou
of a non-foaming surfactant can be used to aide dispersion of
are aware of alternative suppliers, please provide this information to ASTM
thesnippetsinthewaterbath.Theindividualizedanddispersed
International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a
1
meeting of the responsible technical committee, which you may attend.
fibers are then photographed under polarized light and the data
3
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
collected by the instrument’s software, which analyzes the
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
color images to determine fineness, maturity, micronaire and
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
the ASTM website. ribbon width.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West
...

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5.1 This recommended practice furnishes directions for the sampling of wool of the various forms indicated in Section 1, in order that correct probability statements may be made about the relationship between the sample mean and the population mean. If these statements are to be correct, certain conditions, which are stated, must hold.  
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ASTM D1294-22(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Tensile Strength and Breaking Tenacity of Wool Fiber Bundles 1-in. (25.4 mm) Gage Length

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5.1 Test Method D2462 for the determination of the moisture in wool by distillation with toluene is the preferred method for testing wool for moisture for the acceptance testing of commercial shipments. If, however, the purchaser and the supplier agree, Test Method D1576 for the determination of the moisture in wool by oven drying may be used instead. Comparative tests as directed in 5.1.1, may be advisable.  
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1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount of moisture present in ordinary commercial and industrial samples of wool in all forms except grease wool, using the oven-drying technique.  
1.2 Formulas for calculating the moisture content (as-received basis) and moisture regain (oven-dried basis) are given. It is always important to use the correct term which corresponds to the basis used in the calculation (see 12.2.1).  
Note 1: The determination of moisture content for textile materials in general is covered in Test Methods D2654, and an optimal method for determining the moisture in wool by distillation with toluene is covered in Test Method D2462. A method for sampling wool for the determination of moisture in wool is covered in Practice D2525. The oven-drying method has been adapted for cotton in Test Method D2495.  
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ASTM D1574-22(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Extractable Matter in Wool and Other Animal Fibers

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5.1 Test Method D1574 is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing since the method has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing.  
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using Test Method D1574 for acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the supplier should conduct comparative tests to determine if there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test specimens that are as homogeneous as possible and that are from a lot of material of the type in question. The test specimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using Student's t-test for unpaired data and an acceptable probability level chosen by the two parties before the testing is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results in the light of the known bias.  
5.2 This test method may be used to estimate the quantity of oil, grease, and waxy materials remaining on or in wool fibers after scouring, or the quantity of lubricant added before carding or remaining after carding, or the quantity of such materials added or removed in subsequent processing operations.  
5.3 The residues obtained in this test may be subjected to chemical analysis for identification and assay of the component materials, if desired.  
5.4 The specified solvent in this test method does not remove some materials, such as soaps, that may be present in wool and hence in some cases may reflect more closely the added content of some extractables in wool such as oils. When such materials are present and an estimate of their quantity is desired, some other solvent or combination of solvents should be used as spec...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount of extractable matter in samples of all forms of wool, except grease wool, that is extractable with a non-flammable vapor degreasing and cleaning solvent.  
1.2 This test method does not cover the determination of the amounts of different components in the extracted matter nor their identification.  
1.3 This test method is suitable for use with other animal fibers.  
Note 1: The determination of extractable matter in yarns and in felts is covered in Test Methods D2257 and D461. For the determination of alcohol-extractable matter in oven-dry scoured wool, refer to Test Methods D584 and D1334.  
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard.  
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. See 5.4 and Note 3.  
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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1.1 This test method covers the determination of the breaking tenacity of wool fibers as a flat bundle with a 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) clamp separation.  
1.2 This test method is especially adapted to the fiber bundle clamps and strength testing instruments specified, but may be used on other tensile testing machines when equipped with appropriate adapters to accommodate the prescribed clamps.  
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1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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Standard Test Method for Color Measurement of Flax Fiber

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Few standards exist to objectively judge flax quality. Color is an important factor in the quality of flax fiber. Natural variations in raw flax fiber, various processing steps, fiber blending, and a wide range of end uses contribute to the need for a standard method of objectively measuring the color of flax fiber. Spectrophotometic data provide an accurate, precise determination of the color of flax fiber. Colorimetric data are obtained through specimen measurement by combining specimen spectral data with data representing a CIE standard observer and a CIE standard illuminant, as described in Practice E308.  
5.2 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two (or more) laboratories, comparative tests should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative test that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that fiber sample type must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the instrumental color measurement of flax fiber.  
1.2 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system are not necessarily exact equivalents; therefore, to ensure conformance with the standard, each system shall be used independently of the other, and values from the two systems shall not be combined.  
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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ASTM
ASTM D3025-07(2021)(Practice)
Standard Practice for Standardizing Cotton Fiber Test Results by Use of Calibration Cotton Standards

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 The purpose of this practice is to provide guiding principles for the use of reference standard cottons for the standardization of instruments and techniques to obtain reproducible test results (within statistical limits) when the tests are performed on samples of cotton fibers by the same or different operators at the same or different times, both within the same laboratory and in different laboratories.  
5.2 Results obtained on cotton fiber tests on the same sample may vary widely due to differences in instruments and operator techniques. Some variation in test result levels can be controlled by the physical adjustment of instruments in accordance with manufacturers' instruction. Instrument adjustments are made only to cause instrument values to coincide with specified calibration points established by the manufacturer. Other variations in cotton fiber test results are caused by differences in technique used in specimen preparation, errors in reading test values from scales, variation in the reference standard, and sampling errors in specimen selection. It is necessary that the mean value of at least four sets of determinations per operator-instrument be used in order to form a sound basis for any adjustment of technique or for the use of correction factors.4  
5.3 In comparing results of different operators and different laboratories, for example, between the purchaser and the seller, it is essential that all results be obtained on replicate specimens. Values obtained on individual samples, as well as on a reference standard are never absolute, but have a normal variation about their mean due to heterogeneity of the sample. Therefore confidence limits of a test value are dependent upon the within laboratory variance for the test and the sampling error. The level of the results in different laboratories will be comparable only to the extent of the use of the same reference standards in both laboratories.  
5.4 Any one set of determinations on a reference s...
SCOPE
1.1 This practice covers the use of reference standard cottons for the standardization of instruments and techniques used to test cotton fibers in various laboratories.  
1.2 Standardization may be achieved by application of a correction factor based on the reference standards, or by modification of the technique in use.
Note 1: When reference standards are used to develop correction factors, or to adjust an operator's technique, no instrument calibration processes are involved. The term “Calibration” is properly used for the application or assignment of permanent scales or marks to an instrument. Adjustments can be made to specific instruments and accessories such as orifices, metallic strips, or cellophane sheets, in order to obtain the prescribed values with a specific instrument. Since an operator's technique or the interpretation of a method or procedure is inherently variable, it cannot be calibrated, that is, assigned a permanent, definite value. The use of reference standards, however, affords a means for standardizing techniques and checking the reliability of observed results.  
1.3 This practice recognizes two types of reference standards: (1) calibration cotton standards (see 6.1) and (2) working cotton standards (see 6.2).  
1.4 The instructions included in this practice can be used with cotton fibers in any form suitable for testing with the particular instrument to be used.  
1.5 The instructions in the practice are applicable to cotton fibers but can also be applied to specific blends of cotton and other fibers, or to other fibers that can be tested with the instruments designed for testing cotton fibers. No information is available, however, to show that test procedures standardized with reference cotton samples are equally reliable with various cotton fiber blends or with other fibers.  
Note 2: Standardization procedures covered in this practice are recommended for use with the following: Test M...

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