ASTM D3887-96
(Specification)Standard Specification for Tolerances for Knitted Fabrics
Standard Specification for Tolerances for Knitted Fabrics
SCOPE
1.1 This specification covers test methods and tolerances applicable to the following properties of knitted fabrics: yield, mass (weight), width, length, fabric count, bursting strength, moisture regain, thickness, extractable matter, and fiber composition.
1.2 These tolerances are applicable to knitted fabrics of all types, such as warp knits, weft knits, flat bed knits, and the like.
Note 1-The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the standard.
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Designation: D 3887 – 96
Standard Specification for
Tolerances for Knitted Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3887; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939
1.1 This specification covers test methods and tolerances
2.3 Military Standard:
applicable to the following properties of knitted fabrics: yield,
MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-
mass (weight), width, length, fabric count, bursting strength,
spection by Attributes
moisture regain, thickness, extractable matter, and fiber com-
position.
NOTE 2—Reference to test methods in this specification give only the
1.2 These tolerances are applicable to knitted fabrics of all permanent part of the ASTM designation. The current editions of each test
method cited shall prevail.
types, such as warp knits, weft knits, flat bed knits, and the like.
NOTE 1—The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the
3. Terminology
standard.
3.1 Definitions:
3.1.1 bursting strength, n—the force or pressure required to
2. Referenced Documents
2 rupture a fabric by distending it, when applied at right angles
2.1 ASTM Standards:
to the plane of the fabric, under specified conditions.
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
3.1.2 commercial mass, n—billed weight (mass) as deter-
D 629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
mined by a generally accepted method or as agreed upon
D 2257 Test Method for Extractable Matter in Textiles
between the purchaser and the seller.
D 2494 Test Method for Commercial Mass of a Shipment of
3.1.2.1 Discussion—The basis for determining the commer-
Yarn or Man-Made Staple Fiber or Tow
cial weight (mass) of a shipment of textile product is generally
D 2654 Test Methods for Moisture in Textiles
one of the following:
D 2720 Practice for Calculation of Commercial Weight and
Yield of Scoured Wool, Top, and Noil for Various Com- (1) Man-Made Fibers:
(a) CMRU Basis (commercial moisture regain with unscoured
mercial Compositions
material)—the weight (mass) of unscoured, moisture-free textile prod-
D 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens
uct plus the weight (mass) corresponding to its commercial moisture
for Textiles
regain.
D 3773 Test Methods for Length of Woven Fabric
(b) CMRS Basis (commercial moisture regain with scoured
D 3774 Test Method for Width of Woven Fabric
material)—the weight (mass) of moisture-free textile product after
D 3776 Test Method for Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of
scouring by definite prescribed methods plus the weight corresponding
Fabric to its commercial moisture regain.
(c) CAS Basis (commercial allowance with scoured material)—the
D 3786 Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength of
weight (mass) of moisture-free textile product after scouring by definite
Knitted Goods and Nonwoven Fabrics—Diaphragm
prescribed methods plus the weight corresponding to its commercial
Bursting Strength Tester Method
allowance.
D 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Knitted
(d) UN Basis (unadjusted net)—the weight (mass) of unscoured
Goods—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT), Ball Burst Test
textile product with no adjustment for the amount of moisture or finish,
2.2 Other Documents:
or both.
(2) Wool:
(a) CC Basis (commercial composition)—the weight (mass) of
This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on
Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved Oct. 10, 1996. Published February 1997. Originally
Act of Congress, “Textile Fiber Products Identification Act,” 85th Congress,
published as D 3887 – 80. Last previous edition D 3887 – 95.
Second Session, approved Sept. 2, 1958.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
Act of Congress, “Wool Products Labelling Act of 1939,” 76th Congress, Third
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Session, approved Oct. 14, 1939.
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700
the ASTM website. Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D3887–96
wool base as determined by definite prescribed methods plus the A
Fiber content pass 15
weights (masses) of moisture and other components corresponding to
______________
A 4
the commercial composition of the commercially designated material
Those products to which the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939 apply, shall
(for explanation, see Practice D 2720). conform to the requirements of that act. Other fabrics shall conform to the
requirements of the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act of 1958.
(b) UN Basis (unadjusted net)—the weight (mass) of unscoured
textile product with no adjustment for the amount of moisture or finish,
5. Significance and Use
or other components.
5.1 Knitted fabrics are known to exhibit inherent variations
3.1.3 commercial moisture regain (CMR), n— a formally
in properties. This specification lists the tolerances for each
adopted, arbitrary value, to be used with the oven-dried mass of
property deemed acceptable in the trade.
textile fibers, when calculating the commercial mass of a
5.1.1 These tolerances can be used to determine if knitted
shipment or delivery.
fabrics meet specifications for properties, and provide a guide
3.1.4 course, n—in knitted fabrics, a row of successive
in case of dispute.
loops parallel to the width direction of the fabric.
5.2 Tolerances agreed upon between the purchaser and the
3.1.5 finished fabric weight, n—mass per unit area ex-
seller shall take precedence over those listed in this specifica-
pressed in grams per square metre (ounces per square yard),
tion.
grams per linear metre (ounces per linear yard), or inversely as
metres per kilogram (linear yards per pound), or square metres 6. Sampling
per kilogram (square yards per pound).
6.1 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing,
3.1.5.1 Discussion—When weight (mass) is based on me-
take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicable
tres or linear yards, the fabric width must be stated.
specification or other agreement between the purchaser and the
3.1.6 finished yield, n— in knitted fabrics, the number of
supplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.
finished square metres per kilogram (square yards per pound)
6.2 Laboratory Sample—From each roll or piece in the lot
of finished fabric.
sample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabric
3.1.7 greige yield, n— in knitted fabrics, the number of
and at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.
finished square metres per kilogram (square yards per pound)
7. Conditioning
of greige fabric.
3.1.8 knitted fabric, n—a structure produced by interlooping 7.1 For tests made on conditioned material, precondition the
one or more ends of yarn or comparable material.
specimens by bringing them to approximate moisture equilib-
3.1.9 knitted fabric count, n—the number (counted units) of rium in the standard atmosphere for preconditioning, then
wale and courses per 25 mm (1 in.).
bring the specimens to moisture equilibrium for testing in the
3.1.10 length, n—in fabric, the distance from one end to the standard atmosphere for testing. It shall be considered that
other, measured parallel to the selvage or flattened tube edge of
moisture equilibrium for testing has been reached when, after
fabric that is under zero tension and free of folds and wrinkles. free exposure to air in motion, the change in weight (mass) of
3.1.11 tolerances, n—in mathematics, prescribed limits of
the specimen at successive intervals of not less than 2 h does
variation for specified properties of a particular material based not exceed 0.1 % of the specimen weight (mass).
on observed values obtained by specified test methods and on
7.2 Properties not significantly affected by minor variations
samples that are representative of the material. in atmospheric conditions may be tested in prevailing room
3.1.12 wale, n—in knitted fabrics, a column of successive
atmospheres by agreement of all parties concerned.
loops parallel to the length direction of the fabric.
7.3 If the samples comprise whole rolls or bolts of fabric
3.1.13 width, n—in open-width knit fabric, the perpendicu-
that cannot be properly conditioned in a reasonable time with
lar distance between the selvages when the fabric is laid flat,
the facilities available, perform the test determinations on the
under zero tension, and free from folds or wrinkles.
material without conditioning. When tests are carried out under
3.1.14 width, n—in tubular knit fabric, the perpendicular
conditions that vary from the standard, report the actual
distance between the edges of a flattened tube of fabric that is
conditions prevailing at the time of test. It must be recognized
under zero tension and free from folds or wrinkles.
that such results may not correspond with the results obtained
3.1.15 For definitions of other textile terms used in this after testing in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles.
specification, refer to Terminology D 123.
TEST METHODS
4. Tolerances 8. Yield
4.1 The following are the tolerances for each knitted fabric
8.1 Determine the greige yield on unscoured or scoured
property: fabric by dividing the commercial mass (weight) of the greige
Characteristic Requirements Section fabric, obtained as directed in Test Method D 2494, into the
total finished square metres (square yards), as calculated from
Yield 65.0 % 8
the width and lengths on invoices.
Weight (mass) 65.0 % 9
Width −0 to +25 mm 10 8.1.1 The general practice in the trade is to determine greige
(1 in.)
yield on unscoured fabric. However, in some cases, greige
Length 62.0 % 11
yield is determined on scoured fabric. Hence, the report for the
Fabric count 65.0 % 12
Bursting strength (ball burst) 610.0 % 13 greige yield should specify whether unscoured or scoured basis
Extractable matter 1.0 %, max 14
was used.
D3887–96
8.1.1.1 When it can be shown that tests for extractable 11. Length
matter provide the same results as the scour procedure, the
11.1 Determine the fabric length as directed in Section 6, 7,
mass obtained on an unscoured b
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