Standard Specification for Tolerances for Knitted Fabrics

ABSTRACT
This specification details the test methods and tolerances applicable to the following properties of knitted fabrics: yield; mass (weight); width; length; fabric count; bursting strength; moisture regain; thickness; extractable matter; and fiber composition. These tolerances are applicable to knitted fabrics of all types, such as warp knits, weft knits, flat bed knits, and so forth.
SCOPE
1.1 This specification covers test methods and tolerances applicable to the following properties of knitted fabrics: yield, mass (weight), width, length, fabric count, bursting strength, moisture regain, thickness, extractable matter, and fiber composition.
1.2 These tolerances are applicable to knitted fabrics of all types, such as warp knits, weft knits, flat bed knits, and so forth.
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the standard. The values given in parentheses are for information only.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

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30-Sep-2004
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ASTM D3887-96(2004) - Standard Specification for Tolerances for Knitted Fabrics
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NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: D 3887 – 96 (Reapproved 2004)
Standard Specification for
Tolerances for Knitted Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3887; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. Scope Textile Fabrics—Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester
Method
1.1 This specification covers test methods and tolerances
D 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—
applicable to the following properties of knitted fabrics: yield,
Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT), Ball Burst Test
mass (weight), width, length, fabric count, bursting strength,
2.2 Other Documents:
moisture regain, thickness, extractable matter, and fiber com-
Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
position.
Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939
1.2 These tolerances are applicable to knitted fabrics of all
2.3 Military Standard:
types, such as warp knits, weft knits, flat bed knits, and so
MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-
forth.
spection by Attributes
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the
standard. The values given in parentheses are for information
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this specification give only the
only.
permanent part of theASTM designation.The current editions of each test
method cited shall prevail.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
3. Terminology
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
3.1 Definitions:
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
3.1.1 bursting strength, n—the force or pressure required to
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
rupture a fabric by distending it, when applied at right angles
2. Referenced Documents
to the plane of the fabric, under specified conditions.
3.1.2 commercial mass, n—billed weight (mass) as deter-
2.1 ASTM Standards:
mined by a generally accepted method or as agreed upon
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
between the purchaser and the seller.
D 629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
3.1.2.1 Discussion—The basis for determining the commer-
D 2257 Test Method for Extractable Matter in Textiles
cial weight (mass) of a shipment of textile product is generally
D 2494 TestMethodforCommercialMassofaShipmentof
one of the following:
Yarn or Man-Made Staple Fiber or Tow
D 2654 Test Methods for Moisture in Textiles
(1) Man-Made Fibers:
D 2720 Practice for Calculation of Commercial Weight and
(a) CMRU Basis (commercial moisture regain with unscoured
Yield of Scoured Wool, Top, and Noil for Various Com-
material)—the weight (mass) of unscoured, moisture-free textile prod-
uct plus the weight (mass) corresponding to its commercial moisture
mercial Compositions
regain.
D 3773 Test Methods for Length of Woven Fabric
(b) CMRS Basis (commercial moisture regain with scoured
D 3774 Test Method for Width of Woven Fabric
material)—the weight (mass) of moisture-free textile product after
D 3776 Test Method for Mass per Unit Area (Weight) of
scouring by definite prescribed methods plus the weight corresponding
Fabric
to its commercial moisture regain.
D 3786 Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength of
(c) CAS Basis (commercial allowance with scoured material)—the
weight(mass)ofmoisture-freetextileproductafterscouringbydefinite
prescribed methods plus the weight corresponding to its commercial
allowance.
This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on
Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2004. Published November 2004. Originally
approved in 1980. Last previous edition approve din 1996 as D 3887 – 96. Act of Congress, “Textile Fiber Products Identification Act,” 85th Congress,
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or Second Session, approved Sept. 2, 1958.
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Act of Congress, “Wool Products LabellingAct of 1939,” 76th Congress,Third
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on Session, approved Oct. 14, 1939.
the ASTM website. AvailablefromStandardizationDocumentsOrderDesk,Bldg.4SectionD,700
Withdrawn. Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5098.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 3887 – 96 (2004)
(d) UN Basis (unadjusted net)—the weight (mass) of unscoured
Width −0 to +25 mm 10
textile product with no adjustment for the amount of moisture or finish,
(1 in.)
Length 62.0 % 11
or both.
Fabric count 65.0 % 12
(2) Wool:
Bursting strength (ball burst) 610.0 % 13
(a) CC Basis (commercial composition)—the weight (mass) of
Extractable matter 1.0 %, max 14
wool base as determined by definite prescribed methods plus the
A
Fiber content pass 15
weights (masses) of moisture and other components corresponding to
______________
the commercial composition of the commercially designated material
A 5
Those products to which the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939 apply, shall
(for explanation, see Practice D 2720).
conform to the requirements of that act. Other fabrics shall conform to the
(b) UN Basis (unadjusted net)—the weight (mass) of unscoured 4
requirements of the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act of 1958.
textile product with no adjustment for the amount of moisture or finish,
or other components.
5. Significance and Use
3.1.3 commercial moisture regain (CMR), n—a formally
5.1 Knitted fabrics are known to exhibit inherent variations
adopted,arbitraryvalue,tobeusedwiththeoven-driedmassof
in properties. This specification lists the tolerances for each
textile fibers, when calculating the commercial mass of a
property deemed acceptable in the trade.
shipment or delivery.
5.1.1 These tolerances can be used to determine if knitted
3.1.4 course, n—in knitted fabrics, a row of successive
fabrics meet specifications for properties, and provide a guide
loops parallel to the width direction of the fabric.
in case of dispute.
3.1.5 finished fabric weight, n—mass per unit area ex-
5.2 Tolerances agreed upon between the purchaser and the
pressed in grams per square metre (ounces per square yard),
seller shall take precedence over those listed in this specifica-
grams per linear metre (ounces per linear yard), or inversely as
tion.
metres per kilogram (linear yards per pound), or square metres
per kilogram (square yards per pound).
6. Sampling
3.1.5.1 Discussion—When weight (mass) is based on me-
6.1 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing,
tres or linear yards, the fabric width must be stated.
take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicable
3.1.6 finished yield, n—in knitted fabrics, the number of
specification or other agreement between the purchaser and the
finished square metres per kilogram (square yards per pound)
supplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.
of finished fabric.
6.2 Laboratory Sample—From each roll or piece in the lot
3.1.7 greige yield, n—in knitted fabrics, the number of
sample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabric
finished square metres per kilogram (square yards per pound)
and at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.
of greige fabric.
3.1.8 knitted fabric, n—astructureproducedbyinterlooping
7. Conditioning
one or more ends of yarn or comparable material.
7.1 Fortestsmadeonconditionedmaterial,preconditionthe
3.1.9 knitted fabric count, n—the number (counted units) of
specimens by bringing them to approximate moisture equilib-
wale and courses per 25 mm (1 in.).
rium in the standard atmosphere for preconditioning, then
3.1.10 length, n—in fabric, the distance from one end to the
bring the specimens to moisture equilibrium for testing in the
other,measuredparalleltotheselvageorflattenedtubeedgeof
standard atmosphere for testing. It shall be considered that
fabric that is under zero tension and free of folds and wrinkles.
moisture equilibrium for testing has been reached when, after
3.1.11 tolerances, n—in mathematics, prescribed limits of
free exposure to air in motion, the change in weight (mass) of
variation for specified properties of a particular material based
the specimen at successive intervals of not less than 2 h does
on observed values obtained by specified test methods and on
not exceed 0.1 % of the specimen weight (mass).
samples that are representative of the material.
7.2 Properties not significantly affected by minor variations
3.1.12 wale, n—in knitted fabrics, a column of successive
in atmospheric conditions may be tested in prevailing room
loops parallel to the length direction of the fabric.
atmospheres by agreement of all parties concerned.
3.1.13 width, n—in open-width knit fabric, the perpendicu-
7.3 If the samples comprise whole rolls or bolts of fabric
lar distance between the selvages when the fabric is laid flat,
that cannot be properly conditioned in a reasonable time with
under zero tension, and free from folds or wrinkles.
the facilities available, perform the test determinations on the
3.1.14 width, n—in tubular knit fabric, the perpendicular
materialwithoutconditioning.Whentestsarecarriedoutunder
distance between the edges of a flattened tube of fabric that is
conditions that vary from the standard, report the actual
under zero tension and free from folds or wrinkles.
conditions prevailing at the time of test. It must be recognized
3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
that such results may not correspond with the results obtained
specification, refer to Terminology D 123.
after testing in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles.
4. Tolerances
8. Test Method—Yield
4.1 The following are the tolerances for each knitted fabric
8.1 Determine the greige yield on unscoured or scoured
property:
fabric by dividing the commercial mass (weight) of the greige
Characteristic Requirements Section
fabric, obtained as directed in Test Method D 2494, into the
Yield 65.0 % 8 total finished square metres (square yards), as calculated from
Weight (mass) 65.0 % 9
the width and lengths on invoices.
D 3887 – 96 (2004)
8.1.1 Thegeneralpracticeinthetradeistodeterminegreige 10.1.1 The test results obtained from Section 6 of Test
yield on unscoured fabric. However, in some cases, greige Method D 3776 are not on a conditioned basis since there is no
yield is determined on scoured fabric. Hence, th
...

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