Standard Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics

SCOPE
1.1 These test methods cover procedures for characterizing the delamination, strength of bond, appearance, and shrinkage propensity of bonded, fused, and laminated apparel fabrics after drycleaning and laundering.
1.2 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard; the values in parentheses are provided as information only.
1.3 This standard may involve hazardous materials, operations, and equipment. This standard does not purport to address all of the safety problems associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

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Publication Date
30-Jul-1987
Technical Committee
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ASTM D2724-87(2003) - Standard Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
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NOTICE: This standard has either been superceded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
Designation: D 2724 – 87 (Reapproved 2003)
Standard Test Methods for
Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 2724; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope fabric or the backing fabric characterized by the fabric being
raised from the plane of the underlying component over a
1.1 These test methods cover procedures for characterizing
limited area to give a puffy appearance.
the delamination, strength of bond, appearance, and shrinkage
3.2 bonded fabric, n—a layered fabric structure wherein a
propensity of bonded, fused, and laminated apparel fabrics
face or shell fabric is joined to a backing fabric, such as tricot,
after drycleaning and laundering.
with an adhesive that does not significantly add to the thickness
1.2 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as
of the combined fabrics.
standard; the values in parentheses are provided as information
3.2.1 Discussion—In this context a thin layer of foam is
only.
considered an adhesive when the cell structure is completely
1.3 This standard may involve hazardous materials, opera-
collapsed by a flame.
tions, and equipment. This standard does not purport to
3.3 bond strength, n— of bonded, fused, or laminated
address all of the safety problems associated with its use. It is
fabrics, the tensile force expressed in ounces per 25 mm (1 in.)
the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish
of width, required to separate the component layers under
appropriate safety and health practices and determine the
specified conditions.
applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
3.4 bubble—See preferred term blister.
2. Referenced Documents
3.5 crack mark, n—in bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics,
a sharp break or crease in the surface contour of either the face
2.1 ASTM Standards:
fabric or the backing fabric that becomes evident when the
D 76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Tex-
bonded, fused, or laminated composite is rolled, bent, draped,
tiles
or folded.
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
3.5.1 Discussion—Crack marks are usually the result of
E 337 Test Method for Measuring Humidity with a Psy-
combining tight fabric constructions at least one of which does
chrometer (the Measurement of Wet- and Dry-Bulb Tem-
not have sufficient residual stretch to allow the combined
peratures)
fabrics to be bent in an arc without producing crack marks on
2.2 AATCC Standard:
the concave side of the arc. Crack marks also occur when
124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After Repeated
bonded fabrics are allowed to remain in a creased or wrinkled
Home Launderings
state before full adhesive cure has taken place. Other causes
2.3 Federal Trade Commission Trade Regulation Rule:
include the use of excessive adhesive in bonding, or excessive
16 CFR 423 Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and
foam thicknesses and excessive foam collapse in flame lami-
Certain Piece Goods
nation.
3. Terminology
3.6 foam tear, n—a condition wherein the foam portion of a
laminated fabric ruptures prior to the failure of the bond.
3.1 blister, n—in bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, a
3.7 fused fabric, n—a type of bonded fabric made by
bulge, swelling, or similar surface condition on either the face
adhering a fusible fabric to another fabric, such as for use as an
interlining.
These test methods are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on
3.8 fusible fabric, n—a utilitarian fabric which has a ther-
Textiles, and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test
moplastic adhesive applied to one side, sometimes in a pattern
Methods, General.
of dots, so that the surface can be bonded to another fabric
Current edition approved July 31, 1987. Published September 1987. Originally
published as D 2724 – 68 T. Last previous edition D 2724 – 79. surface by the use of heat and pressure.
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.
3.9 interlining, n—any textile which is intended for incor-
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 11.03.
poration into an article of wearing apparel as a layer between
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.
an outer shell and an inner lining.
Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.
As amended effective January 2, 1984, Section A236, available from U.S.
Government Printing Office, North Capital and H Streets NW, Washington DC,
20401.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
NOTICE: This standard has either been superceded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
D 2724 – 87 (2003)
3.10 laminated fabric, n—a layered fabric structure wherein laboratories should be compared using Student’s t-test for
a face or outer fabric is joined to a continuous sheet material, unpaired data and an acceptable probability level chosen by the
such as polyurethane foam, in such a way that the identity of two parties before the testing is begun. If a bias is found, either
the continuous sheet material is retained, either by the flame its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the
method or by an adhesive, and this in turn normally but not supplier must agree to interpret future test results in the light of
always, is joined on the back with a backing fabric such as the known bias.
tricot.
6. Apparatus and Materials
3.11 lot, n—in bonded, fused, or laminated fabric, a single
run on the bonding or laminating machine in which the
6.1 Drycleaning Machine, single-unit, coin-operated type,
processing is carried out without stopping or changing process-
capable of providing a complete automatic dry-to-dry cycle
ing conditions, and consisting of either a single dye lot or a
using perchlorethylene. It shall consist of a commercial rotat-
single gray goods lot.
ing cage type, totally enclosed machine. The diameter of the
3.12 puckering, n— in bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics,
rotating cage shall be not less than 600 mm (24 in.) and not
a wavy, three-dimensional effect typified by closely spaced
more than 1080 mm (42 in.). Its depth shall be not less than 300
wrinkles, on either the face fabric or the backing fabric or both.
mm (12 in.). It shall be fitted with two to four lifters. The speed
3.12.1 Discussion—Puckering may be due to (1) differential
shall be such as to give a g-factor between 0.5 and 0.9 for
shrinkage of the component layers, (2) differences in tension
cleaning and between 35 and 120 for extraction. The machine
when the component layers are combined, or (3) selective
shall be equipped with thermometers for the measurement of
lineal delamination.
the solvent temperature and the air drying temperature.
3.13 solvent relative humidity, n—the humidity of air over a
NOTE 1—The g-factor is calculated using Eq 1 or Eq 2:
drycleaning bath and in equilibrium with the solvent and its
small amount of water. g 5 1.42n D/100 000 (1)
3.13.1 Discussion—Every drycleaning solvent bath con-
g 5 5.59n d/10 000 000 (2)
taining detergent can require a different absolute water content
to reach the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) specified level
where:
of solvent relative humidity for a normal drycleaning. The n = revolutions per minute,
D = cage diameter, in., and
actual solvent relative humidity in the air over a solvent must
d = cage diameter, mm.
be measured by an hygrometer after equilibrium has been
6.2 Domestic Automatic Washer, top-loading, spin-
reached between the water content of air and the solvent.
extracting type.
3.14 For definitions of other textile terms used in this test
6.3 Domestic Automatic Tumble Dryer, front-loading type.
method, refer to Terminology D 123.
6.4 Aspirated Psychrometer, which meets the requirements
4. Summary of Test Methods
of Test Method E 337.
6.5 Marking Device —A thin sheet of stainless steel or
4.1 Bench marks are placed at specified distances on the
fabrics, which are then measured, and subsequently dry- other rigid flat material in which a square opening 254 by 254
mm (10 by 10 in.) has been cut.
cleaned, or laundered and dried, or both, through a prescribed
cycle that is repeated a specified number of times. The 6.6 Rule, 305-mm (12-in.) or longer, preferably divided into
tenths of an inch. A premarked device calibrated to give the
drycleaned or washed specimens are examined for appearance
percentage of shrinkage or growth may also be used.
and delamination and measured to determine any accompany-
6.7 Sewing Machine, suitable for sewing a single row of
ing shrinkage and, if desired, tested to determine the strength of
stitching, preferably with No. 00 mercerized cotton thread, 25
the bond.
mm (1 in.) from the edge of the fabric specimen.
5. Uses and Significance
6.8 Steam Iron, hand type.
5.1 These test methods for the determination of properties 6.9 Steam Press, a press, 600 by 1250 mm (24 by 50 in.),
of bonded, fused, or laminated apparel fabrics, are considered or larger, provided with 60 to 70 psig steam pressure at the
satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments of press. Any steam press large enough for pressing a specimen
bonded and laminated apparel fabrics since the methods have 380 mm (15 in.) square may be used.
been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing.
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from differences in
reported test results when using Test Methods D 2724 for
Sources of suitable equipment are: McGraw-Edison Co., Speed Queen Div.,
acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and
Ripon, Wis.; Philco-Bendix Corp., Fairfield, IO; American Permac, Inc., 175
the supplier should conduct comparative tests to determine if Express St., Plainview, L. I.; Valley Industries Productions, Inc., 133 E. Jericho
Turnpike, Mineola, NY; and Atlas Electric Devices, Chicago, IL.
there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent
Kenmore Model 600 washer and dryer, available from Sears Roebuck and Co.,
statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of
are satisfactory for this purpose.
bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test
Other suitable devices are available from Better Fabrics Testing Bureau, Inc.,
101 W. 31 St., New York, NY, and from Cluett, Peabody and Co., Inc., Sanforized
specimens that are as homogeneous as possible and that are
Div., Troy, NY.
from a lot of material of the type in question. The test
Sources of suitable equipment are: Hoffman Machine Co., Syracuse, NY;
specimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbers
Pentax Co., Pawtucket, R. I.; Prosperity Co., Syracuse, NY; U. S. Testing Co.,
to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two Hoboken, NJ.
NOTICE: This standard has either been superceded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
D 2724 – 87 (2003)
NOTE 4—Samples that are 51 mm (2 in.) wide may be used as the
6.10 Tensile Testing Machine, conforming to Specification
minimum width.
D 76, either a constant rate of traverse type or a constant rate
of extension type, equipped with clamps having a width of 76.2
8. Conditioning
mm (3.00 in.) and preferably calibrated in kilograms with a
8.1 Bring the samples from the prevailing atmosphere and
range from 0 to 4.5 kg (0 to 160 oz). The constant rate of
condition them for at least4hinthe standard atmosphere for
extension type machine is preferred because of the inherently
testing textiles if shrinkage is to be determined. Precondition-
lower machine-induced errors in this type of machine.
ing is not necessary.
6.11 Detergent, home laundry type.
6.12 Perchlorethylene, commercial grade.
9. Specimen Preparation
NOTE 2—Warning: Perchlorethylene is toxic, and the usual precau-
9.1 Using an indelible fineline marker, mark a 254 by 254
tions for handling chlorinated solvents should be taken. It should be used
mm (10 by 10 in.) reference square centrally located on the
only under well-ventilated conditions. The solvent is nonflammable.
face of each test specimen. Apply three sets of reference
6.13 Drycleaning Detergent, anionic drycleaning deter-
markings 254 6 2mm(10 6 0.1 in.) apart, as measured with
gent.
a rule, in the direction of the fabric length. Locate the markings
within 25 mm (1 in.) of each end and at the midpoint of each
7. Sampling
side of the square. Similarly, apply three sets of markings in the
direction of the fabric width. Any other method of accurately
7.1 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing,
take at random the number of rolls of fabric directed in an locating the 254-mm reference marks is satisfactory as long as
the three marks on each side of the square are at least 105 mm
applicable material specification or other agreement between
the purchaser and the supplier. Consider rolls of fabric to be the (4 in.) apart.
primary sampling units.
10. Drycleaning Procedure
NOTE 3—An adequate specification or other agreement between the
purchaser and the supplier requires taking into account the variability NOTE 5—Launderable fabrics are expected normally to be dryclean-
between rolls of fabric and between specimens from a swatch from a roll able, except where the face fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. For
of fabric so as to provide a sampling plan with a meaningful producer’s example, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,
or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the case
risk, consumer’s risk, acceptable quality level, and limiting quality level.
with poly(vinyl chloride) fiber.
7.2 Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample for accep-
10.1 Solvent Preparation—Prepare a standard detergent/
tance testing, take a full width swatch1m(1yd) long from the
drycleaning solvent mixture by adding sufficient detergent to
end of each roll of fabric in the lot sample, after first discarding
the solvent to make a 1 % volume/volume solution. Add
a minimum of1m(1yd) of fabric from the very outside of the
sufficient water to the solution to give a solvent relative
roll.
humidity level of 75 % for the particular drycleaning detergent
7.3 Test Specimens—Proceed as follows:
used. Put this solvent in the machine storage tank. The same
7.3.1 Drycleaning and Laundering—Cut four specimens
solution can be used for repeated cleanings until it becomes
from each swatch in
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