ASTM D1059-97
(Test Method)Standard Test Method for Yarn Number Based on Short-Length Specimens
Standard Test Method for Yarn Number Based on Short-Length Specimens
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the yarn number of all types of cotton, woolen, worsted, and man-made fiber yarns taken from packages; or from any textile fabrics in which the yarns are intact and can be removed in measurable lengths. The test method is not applicable to yarns taken from napped or cut pile fabrics. Because this method is based on short-length specimens, the results should only be considered as approximations of yarn number.
Note 1—For a more precise procedure for the determination of yarn number, refer to Test Method D 1907.
Note 2—The following additional methods for the determination of yarn number have been approved for yarns made from specific fibers: Specifications D 541, D 578, and D 681.
1.2 This test method is applicable to yarns which stretch less than 5 % when tension on yarn is increased from 0.25 to 0.75 cN/tex (0.25 to 0.75 gf/tex). By mutual agreement it may be adapted to yarns which stretch more than 5 % by use of tension lower than that specified in the method for elastomers or use of tension higher than that specified in the method to pull the crimp out of textured yarns.
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard; the values in inch-pound units are reported as information only.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
General Information
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Standards Content (Sample)
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
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Designation: D 1059 – 97
Standard Test Method for
Yarn Number Based on Short-Length Specimens
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 1059; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D 1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by the Direct-
Counting Method
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the yarn
D 1776 Practice for Conditioning Textiles for Testing
number of all types of cotton, woolen, worsted, and man-made
D 1907 Test Method for Yarn Number by the Skein
fiber yarns taken from packages; or from any textile fabrics in
Method
which the yarns are intact and can be removed in measurable
D 2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing
lengths. The test method is not applicable to yarns taken from
napped or cut pile fabrics. Because this method is based on
3. Terminology
short-length specimens, the results should only be considered
3.1 Definitions:
as approximations of yarn number.
3.1.1 cotton count, n—an indirect yarn numbering system
NOTE 1—For a more precise procedure for the determination of yarn
generally in the cotton system equal to the number of 840-yd
number, refer to Test Method D 1907.
lengths of yarn per pound.
NOTE 2—The following additional methods for the determination of
3.1.2 cut, n—in asbestos and glass yarns, the number of
yarn number have been approved for yarns made from specific fibers:
100-yd lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering
Specifications D 541, D 578, and D 681.
system.
1.2 This test method is applicable to yarns which stretch less
3.1.3 cut, n—in wool yarns, the number of 300 yd lengths of
than 5 % when tension on yarn is increased from 0.25 to 0.75
yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system.
cN/tex (0.25 to 0.75 gf/tex). By mutual agreement it may be
3.1.4 denier, n—a unit of linear density, equal to the mass in
adapted to yarns which stretch more than 5 % by use of tension
grams per 9000 m of fiber yarn, or other textile strand that is
lower than that specified in the method for elastomers or use of
used in direct yarn numbering system. (See also linear density.)
tension higher than that specified in the method to pull the
3.1.5 direct yarn numbering system, n—a system that ex-
crimp out of textured yarns.
presses yarn linear density (number). (See also denier, spyndle
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as
number, and tex.)
standard; the values in inch-pound units are reported as
3.1.6 grex, n—an obsolete direct numbering system for fiber
information only.
yarn, or other textile strand equal to the mass in grams per
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
10 000 m. (See also linear density.)
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
3.1.7 indirect yarn numbering system, n—a system that
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
expresses yarn as the reciprocal linear density (number). (See
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
also cotton count, metric count, worsted count, cut, and run.)
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
3.1.8 lea, n—in cotton yarns, the number of 120-yd lengths
of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system.
2. Referenced Documents
3.1.9 lea, n—in linen yarns, the number of 300-yd lengths
2.1 ASTM Standards:
of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system.
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
3.1.10 linear density, n—mass per unit length.
D 541 Specification for Single Jute Yarn
3.1.11 metric count, n—an indirect yarn numbering system
D 578 Specification for Glass Fiber Strands
for sliver roving, and yarn, equal to the number of 1000 m per
D 629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
kilogram.
D 681 Specification for Jute Rove and Plied Yarn for
3.1.12 run, n—in the American woolen system, the number
Electrical and Packing Purposes
of 1600-yd lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn
numbering system generally used for yarns spun on the woolen
This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 on Textiles
system.
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarn Test Methods,
3.1.13 tex, n—the unit of linear density, equal to the mass in
General.
Current edition approved March 10, 1997. Published August 1997. Originally grams of 1000 metres of fiber, or other textile strand that is
published as D 1059 – 49 T. Last previous edition D 1059 – 96.
used in a direct yarn numbering system. (See also linear
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.
density and direct yarn numbering system.)
Discontinued; see 1996 Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.
Copyright © ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 1059
3.1.14 typp, n—an obsolete indirect yarn numbering system bias, if any, between the laboratory of the purchaser and the
equal to the number of 1000-yd lengths per pound. laboratory of the supplier should be determined with each
3.1.15 worsted count, n—an indirect yarn numbering sys- comparison being based on testing specimens randomly drawn
tem in the worsted system equal to the number of 560-yd from one sample of material of the type being evaluated.
lengths per pound.
6. Apparatus
3.1.16 yarn number, n—the value, actual or nominal, of a
yarn in a specific yarn numbering system. 6.1 Twist Tester, equipped with a tension device and means
of measuring the change in length of the specimen due to
3.1.17 yarn numbering system, n—a system for expressing
untwisting, as specified in Test Method D 1423.
yarn fineness or size as a relationship between its length and
6.2 Length Measuring Device—A tape or scale measuring at
mass. (See also fineness or filament number, yarn, linear
least 1.00 m (1.1 yd) in length, graduated in millimetres, and
density, yarn number, direct yarn numbering system, and
with two clamps, one adjustable, to permit measuring various
indirect yarn numbering system yarn count.)
lengths of yarn up to and including 1 m (1.1 yd). The scale
3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in the method,
should be accurate to 1 part in 1000. Means should be provided
refer to Terminology D 123.
for applying a specified tension to the specimen and for cutting
4. Summary of Test Method
it without damaging the scale.
4.1 Specimens of prescribed length, usually 1 m (1.1 yd) or 6.3 Razor-Edge Craft Knife, or Sharp Pointed Scissors or
less, are cut from a conditioned sample, which is under Equivalent.
prescribed tension, and weighed. The yarn number is calcu- 6.4 Tensioning Weights, accurate to 1 part in 100.
lated from the mass and the measured length of the yarn. 6.5 Balance, capable of weighing to within 0.1 % of the
specimen mass.
5. Significance and Use
6.6 Dissecting Needle, Scribe, or Stylus, (hereafter needle).
5.1 This is a quick method used for the determination of the
6.7 Auxiliary Equipment for Raveling Tricot Fabric:
approximate yarn number of short-length specimens taken
6.7.1 Metal Clamps, four to six (1 to 5 g depending on the
from packages or fabrics.
mass per unit area of the tricot fabric).
5.2 Because any error present in the reported length of the
6.7.2 Sharp Pointed Scissors.
specimen is multiplied many times when calculating the
6.7.3 Tweezers.
theoretical yarn number using Eq 2 or Eq 3, it is extremely 6.7.4 Magnifying Glass,3to53, preferably equipped with
important that the length be measured as precisely as practi-
light
cable. 6.7.5 Stereomicroscope,10to603, optional.
5.3 For the analysis of fabrics, this test method is adequate
6.8 Masking Tape.
for estimating the approximate yarn number of the yarn used to
6.9 Test (or Specimen) Board—of a stiff material, such as
weave or knit the fabric, but the results obtained by this method
cardboard, covered with a short pile fabric (for example,
may not agree with the nominal yarn number of the yarns
velvet, velveteen, or a plush or napped surface).
actually used to make the fabric because of the changes in the
7. Sampling
yarn number produced by the weaving or knitting operations,
the finishing treatments, and the dissecting operations. This test 7.1 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing,
method is suitable for the evaluation of yarns as they occur in take at random the number of shipping containers directed in
the finished fabric, when that information is needed. an applicable material specification or other agreement be-
5.4 The yarn number obtained from short lengths taken tween the purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to
from packages should not be expected to agree exactly with the use Practice D 2258.
values obtained by the use of the more precise methods of 7.2 Laboratory Sample—As laboratory sample for accep-
determining the yarn number included in Test Method D 1907. tance testing, proceed as follows:
If a sufficient number of consecutive specimens were tested, 7.2.1 For packages such as cones, spools, or bobbins, take a
however, a close agreement with Option 1 of Test Method total number of packages as directed in Section 7 of Test
D 1907 can be expected. Method D 1907.
5.5 This method is designed to measure the yarn number of 7.2.2 For beams, remove 1.5 m (1.5 yd) of yarn from all
the single yarns present as a component of a plied yarn and the ends across the beam. Handle carefully to avoid tangling.
yarn number of the original single yarns used to produce a high Secure the ends of the sample yarns by sandwiching them at
twist yarn for a crepe fabric. the ends with strips of masking tape.
5.6 This method is not recommended for acceptance testing 7.2.3 For fabrics, take a swatch of full-width fabric at least
because of the short lengths used. In some cases, the purchaser 1.5 m (1.5 yd).
and the supplier may have to test a commercial shipment of one 7.3 Test Specimens—From each unit of the laboratory
or more specific materials by the best available method, even sample, take specimens at the time of testing as follows:
though the method has not been recommended for acceptance 7.3.1 For packages such as cones, spools, or bobbins, take
testing of commercial shipments. one specimen per package.
5.6.1 In such a case, if there is a disagreement arising from 7.3.2 For beams, take ten ends at random from each half of
the differences in values reported by the purchaser and supplier the beam sheet.
when using this method for acceptance testing, the statistical 7.3.3 For woven fabrics, take ten separate specimens from
D 1059
the warp and ten separate specimens from the filling. Take the now be sandwiched in tape at the end to keep them together
filling specimens at random. Discard specimens that appear to and for ease of handling. This initial starting of the raveling
be damaged. process is most easily accomplished using a stereomicroscope,
7.3.4 For weft knit fabrics, take ten specimens at random but a magnifying glass may be sufficient.
unless the fabric is known to be a multifeed fabric or double
NOTE 5—Warp knits are usually knit from a minimum of two sets of
knit fabric. For multifeed fabric, take ten specimens from ten
yarn beams, each of which requires a bar to guide threads during knitting.
successive courses in one part of the laboratory sample. For
Yarns guided by one of the bars will either knit off one needle or two
double knit fabric, take five specimens from each knitting type
adjacent needles. Yarns guided by the other bar(s) will usually knit off of
of yarn (short and long feed length courses). nonadjacent needles and may indeed “skip” over more than one needle
between stitches. A fabric could contain one bar with each yarn knitting off
7.3.5 For warp knit fabrics, cut a walewise strip from which
a needle (chain stitch), one bar using adjacent needles, and a third bar
specimens can be raveled. Cut the strip at least 0.2 m (8 in)
using nonadjacent needles. The technical face side of the fabric shows the
longer than the specimen length and wide enough to contain
wales; and except for double warp knits, the back side usually shows
more than the required number of specimens. Test five speci-
diagonal lines, called laps, which are due to yarn movement from
mens from each bar.
stitch-to-stitch crossing one or more wale lines.
NOTE 3—When testing for other than acceptance testing, the specimens
9.4.3 Continue raveling by the ladder technique of gently
may have to be taken in a different manner than directed above. A
pulling on the yarns being removed, with slightly more stress
minimum of ten specimens in each test result is recommended.
and angled pull on those at the edges. Gentle pressure on yarns
in spaces at the sides with a needle may be necessary from time
8. Conditioning
to time. Try to keep the yarns raveling at the same rate. When
8.1 Bring the laboratory samples or specimens to moisture
yarns resist raveling, check for broken or looped filaments
equilibrium for testing in the standard atmosphere for testing
wrapped about yarn loops. These have to be worked loose
textiles as directed in Practice D 1776, except that precondi-
(under microscope) or broken; in which case, the yarn with the
tioning is not necessary.
broken filaments can’t be used for testing. Yarns can normally
take a fair amount of hand tension during the raveling process
9. Preparation of Specimens
without being damaged. When too much tension has been
9.1 Yarn from Packages—Normally, specimens having a
applied, the yarn will lose memory of knit crimp and not
length of 1 m (1.1 yd) can be obtained from pirns, cones,
recrimp to loop form. (With greige yarns, however, moisture
spools, bobbins, and beams. Remove the outer layers from the
and heat from handling by some people may cause loss of the
packages and proceed as described in 10.2.
knit-crimp memory without yarn damage.) This phase can be
9.2 Yarn from Woven Fabrics—Cut the laboratory samples
done with fabric still clamped to board. Or, it can be done with
parallel to the warp (or filling) yarns to be tested. Ravel and
fabric held on each side of the raveling area with heel of thumb
discard the warp (or filling) yarns until full length yarns can be
and three fingers, leaving thumbs and forefingers to pull on
removed from the fabric. Trim the fringe.
yarns and work needle as needed. Lighted low power magni-
fication may be helpful. Very tightly knit fabrics will ravel
NOTE 4—If fabric is tightly woven, it may be necessary to cut the fringe
frequently to allow the yarns to be raveled from the fabric without
more slowly and may require continued use of microsc
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