ASTM F1773-09(2015)
(Terminology)Standard Terminology Relating to Climbing, Mountaineering, Search and Rescue Equipment and Practices (Withdrawn 2024)
Standard Terminology Relating to Climbing, Mountaineering, Search and Rescue Equipment and Practices (Withdrawn 2024)
SCOPE
1.1 This terminology document is a compilation of definitions of terms, abbreviations, and acronyms that are unique to climbing, mountaineering, search and rescue collected in order to provide consistency in communication when used in actual operations, training, literature, and the statistical basis for rating a product's performance dealing with this field.
WITHDRAWN RATIONALE
This terminology document was a compilation of definitions of terms, abbreviations, and acronyms that are unique to climbing, mountaineering, search and rescue collected in order to provide consistency in communication when used in actual operations, training, literature, and the statistical basis for rating a product's performance dealing with this field.
Formerly under the jurisdiction of Committee F32 on Search and Rescue, this terminology was withdrawn in January 2024 in accordance with section 10.6.3 of the Regulations Governing ASTM Technical Committees, which requires that standards shall be updated by the end of the eighth year since the last approval date.
General Information
Relations
Buy Standard
Standards Content (Sample)
This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: F1773 − 09 (Reapproved 2015)
Standard Terminology Relating to
Climbing, Mountaineering, Search and Rescue Equipment
and Practices
This standard is issued under the fixed designation F1773; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope* 3.1.7 brake bar rack, n—a variable friction device consist-
ing of a u-shaped metal bar to which are attached several metal
1.1 This terminology document is a compilation of defini-
bars that create friction on the rope. Also known as a rappel
tions of terms, abbreviations, and acronyms that are unique to
rack.
climbing, mountaineering, search and rescue collected in order
3.1.8 chest harness, n—a type of harness worn around the
to provide consistency in communication when used in actual
chest for upper body support.
operations, training, literature, and the statistical basis for
3.1.9 climber, n—a person engaging in the sport of climb-
rating a product’s performance dealing with this field.
ing and mountaineering.
2. Referenced Documents 3.1.10 climbing and mountaineering, n—the sport of
ascending, descending, and traversing on mountainous terrain,
2.1 ASTM Standards:
snow and ice, and natural and simulated rock surfaces.
E456 Terminology Relating to Quality and Statistics
3.1.11 climbing and mountaineering equipment, n—the
E1150 Definitions of Terms Relating to Fatigue (Withdrawn
equipment exclusively designed for use in climbing and
1996)
mountaineering.
3. Terminology
3.1.12 dynamic rope (rope systems), n—a class of ropes
thatisusedforrescueworkandrappellingwhengreaterenergy
3.1 Definitions of General Climbing and Mountaineering
absorption qualities are required, such as in lead climbing or
Terms:
whenever a high fall potential exists. Such ropes are typically
3.1.1 access, n—the process of reaching the patients or
certified to UIAA or CE climbing rope standards.
subjects and establishing physical contact with them.
3.1.13 evacuation, n—theprocessusedtomovethepatient/
3.1.2 aid climbing, n—a technique of climbing that utilizes
subjectbetweenthecompletionofextractionandthebeginning
auxiliary devices as a means of ascent to supplement the
of transportation.
natural features of the surface being climbed.
3.1.14 extraction, n—the process of removing the patient/
3.1.3 belay, n—a technique where a stationary person
subject from an immediately hazardous environment along
controls a rope connected to a moving climber in order to
with assessment, treatment, stabilization, and packaging.
provide protection against a fall, or in the event of a fall, to
3.1.15 free climbing, n—a technique of climbing that uses
catch the climber.
only the natural features of the surface being climbed. In free
3.1.4 belay, v—to protect a climber with a belay.
climbing, equipment may be utilized to provide protection in
3.1.5 belayer, n—a person who is belaying.
the event of a fall, but is not used to assist progress.
3.1.6 bouldering, n—a technique of climbing where climb-
ers remain close to the ground and do not use a rope to 3.1.16 john boat (maritime), n—a skiff with a flat bottom.
safeguard their progress. 3.1.17 lead climbing, n—the skill of climbing first up a
pitch, utilizing a belayer, climbing rope, and intermediate
protection anchors.
This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee F32 on Search
3.1.18 low stretch rope (rope systems), n— a class of
and Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment,
ropes that is used for rescue work and rappelling with an
Testing, and Maintenance.
Current edition approved Dec. 1, 2015. Published December 2015. Originally
elongation greater than 6 % and less than 10 % at 10 % of its
approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 2009 as F1773 – 09. DOI:
minimum breaking strength.
10.1520/F1773-09R15.
2 3.1.19 pike pole (maritime), n—a long, slender, hooked
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
pole used by boaters to retrieve line, objects, and so forth from
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
water. Also known as a boat hook.
the ASTM website.
3.1.20 rappel, n—the set up of anchors and equipment used
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
www.astm.org. to rappel.
*A Summary of Changes section appears at the end of this standard
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
F1773 − 09 (2015)
3.1.21 rappel, v—to descend by sliding down a rope using 3.2.14 chock, passive, n—a chock containing no moving
equipment or special technique, or both, which applies friction, parts.
thereby controlling the speed of descent.
3.2.15 crampon, n—a foot-mounted piece of equipment
3.1.22 ring buoy (maritime), n—a Type 4 personal floata-
with spikes designed to provide traction or support on snow
tiondevice,usuallymadeofahardbuoyantmaterialwithaline
and ice.
encircling it.
3.2.16 descender, n—a rappel device.
3.1.23 route, n—the path chosen by a climber.
3.2.17 floor anchor, n—a belay anchor on the floor.
3.1.24 safety factor (rope systems), n—the ratio between
3.2.18 harness, n—a piece of equipment designed to be
the breaking strength and the load; commonly used inter-
worn by a climber or mountaineer that provides an attachment
changeably with the term load ratio, the term safety factor is
point for a rope and a means to support the climber’s body
properly applied only to systems and not to individual compo-
during climbing, resting, rappelling, or falling.
nents.
3.2.19 harness, chest, n—the part of a combination harness
3.1.25 self belay, n—a technique of self protection em-
that fits around the upper part of the body.
ployed by a climber using climbing and mountaineering
3.2.20 harness, combination, n—a harness consisting of a
equipment.
sit harness and chest harness.
3.1.26 soloing, n—a technique of climbing where the
3.2.21 harness, full-body, n—a harness that fits around the
climber is alone. A belay may or may not be used.
upper part, the waist, and thighs of the body.
3.1.27 static rope (rope systems), n—a class of ropes that
3.2.22 harness, sit, n—a harness that fits around the waist
is used for rescue work and rappelling that has a maximum
andthighsofthebody.Sometimesreferredtoasa seat harness.
elongation of 6 % at 10 % of its minimum breaking strength.
3.2.23 helmet, n—apieceofequipmentdesignedtoprovide
3.1.28 third party certification, n—a certification by an
protection to climbers’ heads from falling objects and the
independent testing organization that a particular product
impact of a fall.
meets a referenced standard.
3.2.24 ice tool, n—ahand-heldpieceofequipmentdesigned
3.1.29 top rope climbing, n—a technique of climbing
to assist climbers and mountaineers on ice or hard snow.
where the climber is safeguarded by a roped belay from above.
3.2.25 kernmantle construction, n—a method of making
3.
...
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: F1773 − 09 (Reapproved 2015)
Standard Terminology Relating to
Climbing, Mountaineering, Search and Rescue Equipment
and Practices
This standard is issued under the fixed designation F1773; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope* 3.1.7 brake bar rack, n—a variable friction device consist-
ing of a u-shaped metal bar to which are attached several metal
1.1 This terminology document is a compilation of defini-
bars that create friction on the rope. Also known as a rappel
tions of terms, abbreviations, and acronyms that are unique to
rack.
climbing, mountaineering, search and rescue collected in order
3.1.8 chest harness, n—a type of harness worn around the
to provide consistency in communication when used in actual
chest for upper body support.
operations, training, literature, and the statistical basis for
3.1.9 climber, n—a person engaging in the sport of climb-
rating a product’s performance dealing with this field.
ing and mountaineering.
2. Referenced Documents
3.1.10 climbing and mountaineering, n—the sport of
ascending, descending, and traversing on mountainous terrain,
2.1 ASTM Standards:
snow and ice, and natural and simulated rock surfaces.
E456 Terminology Relating to Quality and Statistics
3.1.11 climbing and mountaineering equipment, n—the
E1150 Definitions of Terms Relating to Fatigue (Withdrawn
equipment exclusively designed for use in climbing and
1996)
mountaineering.
3. Terminology 3.1.12 dynamic rope (rope systems), n—a class of ropes
that is used for rescue work and rappelling when greater energy
3.1 Definitions of General Climbing and Mountaineering
absorption qualities are required, such as in lead climbing or
Terms:
whenever a high fall potential exists. Such ropes are typically
3.1.1 access, n—the process of reaching the patients or
certified to UIAA or CE climbing rope standards.
subjects and establishing physical contact with them.
3.1.13 evacuation, n—the process used to move the patient/
3.1.2 aid climbing, n—a technique of climbing that utilizes
subject between the completion of extraction and the beginning
auxiliary devices as a means of ascent to supplement the
of transportation.
natural features of the surface being climbed.
3.1.14 extraction, n—the process of removing the patient/
3.1.3 belay, n—a technique where a stationary person
subject from an immediately hazardous environment along
controls a rope connected to a moving climber in order to
with assessment, treatment, stabilization, and packaging.
provide protection against a fall, or in the event of a fall, to
3.1.15 free climbing, n—a technique of climbing that uses
catch the climber.
only the natural features of the surface being climbed. In free
3.1.4 belay, v—to protect a climber with a belay.
climbing, equipment may be utilized to provide protection in
3.1.5 belayer, n—a person who is belaying.
the event of a fall, but is not used to assist progress.
3.1.6 bouldering, n—a technique of climbing where climb-
3.1.16 john boat (maritime), n—a skiff with a flat bottom.
ers remain close to the ground and do not use a rope to
safeguard their progress.
3.1.17 lead climbing, n—the skill of climbing first up a
pitch, utilizing a belayer, climbing rope, and intermediate
protection anchors.
This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee F32 on Search
3.1.18 low stretch rope (rope systems), n— a class of
and Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment,
ropes that is used for rescue work and rappelling with an
Testing, and Maintenance.
Current edition approved Dec. 1, 2015. Published December 2015. Originally
elongation greater than 6 % and less than 10 % at 10 % of its
approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 2009 as F1773 – 09. DOI:
minimum breaking strength.
10.1520/F1773-09R15.
3.1.19 pike pole (maritime), n—a long, slender, hooked
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM pole used by boaters to retrieve line, objects, and so forth from
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
water. Also known as a boat hook.
the ASTM website.
3 3.1.20 rappel, n—the set up of anchors and equipment used
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
www.astm.org. to rappel.
*A Summary of Changes section appears at the end of this standard
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
F1773 − 09 (2015)
3.1.21 rappel, v—to descend by sliding down a rope using 3.2.14 chock, passive, n—a chock containing no moving
equipment or special technique, or both, which applies friction, parts.
thereby controlling the speed of descent.
3.2.15 crampon, n—a foot-mounted piece of equipment
3.1.22 ring buoy (maritime), n—a Type 4 personal floata-
with spikes designed to provide traction or support on snow
tion device, usually made of a hard buoyant material with a line
and ice.
encircling it.
3.2.16 descender, n—a rappel device.
3.1.23 route, n—the path chosen by a climber.
3.2.17 floor anchor, n—a belay anchor on the floor.
3.1.24 safety factor (rope systems), n—the ratio between
3.2.18 harness, n—a piece of equipment designed to be
the breaking strength and the load; commonly used inter-
worn by a climber or mountaineer that provides an attachment
changeably with the term load ratio, the term safety factor is
point for a rope and a means to support the climber’s body
properly applied only to systems and not to individual compo-
during climbing, resting, rappelling, or falling.
nents.
3.2.19 harness, chest, n—the part of a combination harness
3.1.25 self belay, n—a technique of self protection em-
that fits around the upper part of the body.
ployed by a climber using climbing and mountaineering
3.2.20 harness, combination, n—a harness consisting of a
equipment.
sit harness and chest harness.
3.1.26 soloing, n—a technique of climbing where the
3.2.21 harness, full-body, n—a harness that fits around the
climber is alone. A belay may or may not be used.
upper part, the waist, and thighs of the body.
3.1.27 static rope (rope systems), n—a class of ropes that
3.2.22 harness, sit, n—a harness that fits around the waist
is used for rescue work and rappelling that has a maximum
and thighs of the body. Sometimes referred to as a seat harness.
elongation of 6 % at 10 % of its minimum breaking strength.
3.2.23 helmet, n—a piece of equipment designed to provide
3.1.28 third party certification, n—a certification by an
protection to climbers’ heads from falling objects and the
independent testing organization that a particular product
impact of a fall.
meets a referenced standard.
3.2.24 ice tool, n—a hand-held piece of equipment designed
3.1.29 top rope climbing, n—a technique of climbing
to assist climbers and mountaineers on ice or hard snow.
where the climber is safeguarded by a roped belay from above.
3.2.25 kernmantle construction, n—a method of making
3.2 Definitions of Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment
cord and rope by brai
...
Questions, Comments and Discussion
Ask us and Technical Secretary will try to provide an answer. You can facilitate discussion about the standard in here.