ASTM D4845-96(2005)
(Terminology)Standard Terminology Relating to Wool
Standard Terminology Relating to Wool
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Designation:D4845–96 (Reapproved 2005)
Standard Terminology Relating to
Wool
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4845; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
acid content, n—of felt, the number of milliequivalents of acid baking, crushing, and dusting out the embrittled cellulosic
present per unit weight of felt, measured under prescribed matter followed by neutralization of the acidified wool.
conditions. D 461 D2118
alkali-solubility, n—in wool, the percent of clean wool that is carded wool, n—scoured wool which has been processed
soluble in a specified alkaline solution under controlled through a carding machine. D 1575
conditions of temperature and time. D 1283 cashmere, n—in roving, yarn, or fabrics, cashmere hair or
alpaca, n—the fleece and fiber produced by the alpaca, an products made therewith having a cashmere coarse-hair
animal of the genus Llama (Lama glama pacus). The fiber is content not exceeding a specified maximum percentage by
obtained from several species, namely, Huacaya and Suri. length. D 2816, D 2817
D 2252 cashmere coarse-hair, n—those coarse fibers in cashmere hair
having widths greater than 30 µm. D 2816, D 2817
DISCUSSION—Alpaca is normally classified according to type, repre-
cashmere coarse-hair content, n—the total length of the
senting particular combinations of characteristics appropriate to a
cashmere coarse-hair fibers that are present, expressed as a
specific use, or descriptive of geographic origin, breed or species of
animal, or preparation for market. percentage of the total length of all the cashmere hair fibers;
that is, the percentage by length of cashmere coarse-hair in
animal fiber, n—any natural protein-base fiber.
cashmere hair. D 2816, D 2817
D 1574, D 4510
cashmere down, n—those fibers in cashmere hair having
aqueous extract, n—in wool testing, the solution obtained by
widths of 30 µm or less. D 2816, D 2817
digesting a material with water or with a sodium chloride
cashmere hair, n—the fibers produced by a form of goat
solution to dissolve soluble materials. D 2165
(Capra hircus) indigenous to Asia and known as the cash-
average fiber diameter, n—in wool and other animal fibers,
mere goat. D 2816, D 2817
the average width of a group of fibers when measured on a
DISCUSSION—Characteristically, cashmere hair consists of fine down
projected image. D 2130, D 2252, D 3991, D 3992
(undercoat) fibers and coarse (outercoat) fibers.
black felt, n—those classifications of felt manufactured to
various shades of the color black. D 2475
clean wool fiber present, n—in raw wool, the mass of wool
breaking tenacity, n—thetenacitycorrespondingtothebreak-
base present in the raw wool, adjusted to a moisture content
ing load. D 1294, D 2524
of 12 %, an alcohol-extractable content of 1.5 %, and a
mineral matter content of 0.5 %. D 584, D 1060, D 1334
DISCUSSION—Breaking tenacity is commonly expressed as grams-
force per tex (gf/tex), grams-force per denier (gf/den), millinewtons per colored fiber, n—in wool top, any fiber the color or shade of
tex mN/tex), or millinewtons per denier (mN/den). Millinewtons are
which differs from the normal color or shade of the fiber
numerically equal to grams-force times 9.81.
mass of the sample. D 1770
combing wool, n—wool that is strong and strictly of combing
burr-wool waste, n—waste removed by the burr guard of
length, that is, 2 in. (50 mm) or more. D 4845
cards or burr pickers having a very short fiber and full of
commercial composition, n—in wool, the percentages by
burrs or seeds. D 4845
weight of wool base, moisture, and other nonwool-base
DISCUSSION—The nature of the waste varies according to the wool
components in wool to which a specific commercial desig-
from which the burrs are taken.
nation is applied. D 2720
carbonized and neutralized wool, n—a term descriptive of commercial designation, n—in wool,atermappliedtoalotof
wool in a stated form, and having a specified commercial
scoured wool processed to destroy cellulosic impurities by
treating with a mineral acid or an acid salt, drying and composition. D 2720
commercial moisture content, n—the moisture calculated as
a percentage of the weight of the wool, top, noils, yarn,
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
fabric, etc., in the “as-is” condition; that is, containing
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Wool Felt.
whatever moisture, oil, grease, or other extraneous matter
Current edition approved Jan. 1, 2005. Published March 2005. Originally
approved in 1988. Last previous edition approved in 1996 as D 4845 – 96.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D4845–96 (2005)
that may be present. D2118 not including water, which is removable by a specified
solvent or solvents as directed in a specified procedure.
DISCUSSION—The term “moisture regain” as defined in Terminology
D 461, D 1574
D 123, leads to certain difficulties in defining the clean wool basis for
calculation, which do not occur when the term“ moisture content” is
DISCUSSION—Extractable matter does not include moisture but (1)is
used.Moisturecontentcanbeapplieddirectlytotheproductintheas-is
non-fibrousmaterial,(2)isusuallyoily,waxy,orresinousinnature,and
condition while moisture regain cannot.
(3) may include protein, particularly if the extracting solvent is ethyl
alcohol or contains ethyl alcohol.
commercial weight, n—billed weight as determined by a
generally accepted method or as agreed to by the purchaser
felt, n—a textile structure characterized by interlocking and
and the seller. D 2720
consolidation of its constituent fibers achieved by the inter-
action of a suitable combination of mechanical energy,
DISCUSSION—For shipments of commercially designated scoured
chemical action, moisture, and heat but without the use of
wool,wooltop,orwoolnoil,thegenerallyacceptedcommercialweight
is the weight of wool base contained in the shipment as determined by weaving, knitting, stitching, thermal bonding, or adhesives.
definite prescribed methods, plus the weights of moisture and other
D 2475
components corresponding to the commercial composition of the
DISCUSSION—In practice, light needling may be used to supplement
commercially designated material.
the ability of the fibers to interlock and consolidate.
constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type tensile testing ma-
fineness, n—of textile fibers, a relative measure of size,
chine, n—in tensile testing, an apparatus in which the
diameter, linear density or mass per unit length expressed in
pulling clamp moves at a uniform rate, and the force-
a variety of units. D 2252, D 3991, D 3992
measuring mechanism moves a negligible distance with
increasing force, less than 0.13 mm (0.005 in.).
DISCUSSION—The fineness of alpaca, wool, and other animal fibers is
D 1294, D 2524 expressed as the average fiber width or average fiber diameter in
micrometers (µm).
constant-rate-of-loading (CRL) type tensile testing ma-
chine, n—in testing tensile,anapparatusinwhichtherateof
flame resistance, n—the property of a material whereby
increase of the force is uniform with time after the first 3 s
flaming combustion is prevented, terminated, or inhibited
and the specimen is free to elongate, this elongation being
following application of a flaming or nonflaming source of
dependentontheextensioncharacteristicsofthespecimenat
ignition, with or without subsequent removal of the ignition
any applied force. D 1294, D 2524
source. D 461
constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) type tensile testing ma-
gage length, n—in tensile testing, the length of a specimen
chine, n—in tensile testing, an apparatus in which the
measured between the points of attachment to clamps while
pulling clamp moves at a uniform rate and the force is
under uniform tension. D 1294, D 2524
applied through the other clamp, which moves appreciably
grade, n—in wool and mohair,anumericaldesignationusedin
to actuate a force-measuring mechanism, producing a rate of
classifying wool and mohair in their raw, semi-processed,
increaseofforceorextensionthatisusuallynotconstantand
and processed forms based on average fiber diameter and
is dependent on the extension characteristics of the speci-
variation of fiber diameter. D 2130, D 3991, D 3992
men. D 1294, D 2524
DISCUSSION—Theterm“grade”shouldnotbeconfusedwiththeterms
core, n—in sampling fiber packages, the portion of wool or
“quality”and“type.”“Quality”isatermthatincludesnotonlyfineness
other fiber obtained by using a sampling tube. D 1060
but also characteristics such as length, crimp, strength, elasticity, luster,
cortex, n—in mammalian hair fibers, the principal body of the
tactile hand, and color, all of which affect the spinnability of the fiber
fiber made up of elongated cells. D 4510
and the properties of the resulting yarn and fabric. The Bradford
cuticle, n—in mammalian hair fibers, the layers of flattened
designations,forwhichnostandardsexist,useascalesimilartothatfor
grade designations (for example: 64s, 56s, etc.) and refer to quality and
cells enclosing the cortex, which forms an envelope of
not solely to fineness. “Type” is a term designating a particular
overlapping scales surrounding the fiber. D 4510
combinationofcharacteristicsapplicabletoaspecificuseordescriptive
diameter, average fiber—See average fiber diameter.
of geographical origin, breed of sheep, or preparation for market.
dimensional change in boiling water (felt), n—the change in
length and width with any associated change in thickness gray felt, n—a blend of white fibers with naturally colored or
produced by immersion in boiling water under specified
dyed fibers or both and that has an overall gray appearance.
conditions. D 461 D 2475
epidermis, n—in mammalian hair fibers,theoutsideorsurface
grease wool, n—wool taken from the living sheep and which
layer of the fiber consisting of flat, irregular, horny cells or has not been commercially scoured.
scales. D 4845
D 1234, D 1574, D 1576, D 2462
extractable matter, n—nonfibrous material in or on a textile, hair, n—natural animal fiber other than sheep’s wool or silk.
D 4845
DISCUSSION—It is recognized that this definition implies a distinction
2 between sheep’s wool and the covering of other animals, notwithstand-
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
ing similarity in their fiber characteristics. Thus the crimped form and
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
the scaly structure are not confined to sheep’s wool. It seems desirable
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
the ASTM website.
D4845–96 (2005)
in the textile trade, however, to avoid ambiguity by confining the term DISCUSSION—Heating the material and the desiccated air to tempera-
wool to the covering of sheep and to have available a general term for tures as high as 110°C increases the rate of moisture loss but does not
other fibers of animal origin. Normally the less widely used fibers are change the final equilibrium mass of the moisture-free material.
known by name, for example, alpaca, mohair, etc., but collectively they
moisture regain, n—the amount of moisture in a material
are classed as hairs.
determined under prescribed conditions and expressed as a
kemp fiber, n—a medullated animal fiber in which the
percentage of the mass of the moisture-free material.
diameter of the medulla is 60 %, or more, of the diameter of
D 1576, D 2462
the fiber. D 2968
natural fiber, n—a class name for various genera of fibers
laboratory sample, n—aportionofmaterialtakentorepresent
(including filaments) of (1) animal, (2) mineral, or (3)
the lot sample, or the original material, and used in the
vegetable origin. D 4845
laboratory as a source of test specimens. D 2525
DISCUSSION—Examples—(1) Silk and wool, (2) asbestos, (3) cotton,
laboratory sample, n—in wool top, the portions drawn from
flax, jute, ramie.
the lot in accordance with the described procedure.
D 1770
needled felt, n—a textile structure composed entirely of fibers
lot, n—in acceptance sampling, that part of a consignment or
physically interlocked and reoriented through the action of
shipment consisting of a material from one production lot. felting needles. D 2475
D 2525
nep, n—one or more fibers occurring in a tangled and
lot, n—in wool, top, the entire quantity, not exceeding 20 000 unorganized mass. D 1770
lb(9100kg)ofasinglecombing,thatcomprisesasingleunit
noil, n—the short fibers removed in combing; applied particu-
for which a test for neps, vegetable matter or colored fiber, larly to wool, but also to other fibers such as cotton, silk, and
or all three combined is desired. D 1770
rayon. D 4845
lot sample, n—one or more shipping units taken at random to other alkali-insoluble impurities, n—in scoured wool, oven-
represent an acceptance sampling lot and used as a source of
dried, ash-free, alcohol-extractives-free, alkali-insoluble
laboratory samples. D 2525 substances other than vegetable matter base, such as skin,
med fiber, n—a medullated animal fiber in which the diameter
cotton or other fibers, paper, string, tag (dung) pieces, paint
of the medulla is less than 60 % of the diameter of the fiber. pieces, etc. D 584, D 1113, D 1334
D 2968
oven-dried, adj—the condition of a material that has been
medulla, n—in mammalian hair fibers, the more or less heated under prescribed conditions of temperature and
continuous cellular marrow inside the cortical layer in most
humidity until there is no further significant change in its
medium and coarse fibers. D 2968 mass. D 584, D 1113, D 1334, D 1576, D 2462, D 2720
medullated fiber, n—an animal fiber that in its original state
DISCUSSION—An oven-dry material will retain a small amount of
includes a medulla. D 2968
moisture which is dependent on the temperature and relative humidity
merino, adj—from pure-bred merino sheep. D 4845
of the atmosphere in contact with the material during the drying
process. An oven-dry material will only be moisture-free when the air
DISCUSSION—Merino wool usually has a fiber diameter of 24 µm or
supplied to the drying oven has been previously desiccated. The term
less.
“mass” in the above definition is the correct designation for what is
commonly designated “weight”.
mohair, n—the hair of the Angora goat, Capra species.
D 3991, D 3992
orthopedic and surgical felt, n—a white, soft, low density,
moisture content, n—the amount of moisture in a material
highly resilient felt. D 2475
determined under prescr
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