ASTM D4965-96

Standard Terminology of Seams and Seam Finishes in Home Sewing

SCOPE
1.1 This terminology provides a uniform, easily understood language for the description of seams and seam-finishes used in home sewing.
1.1.1 These seams and seam finishes may be produced on a conventional sewing machine or by hand.  
1.1.2 These terms and definitions are not necessarily applicable to the apparel manufacturing industry.
1.2 This terminology provides a common base for use in the preparation of educational materials and pattern guide sheets for home sewing.  
1.3 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropriate if equipment other than the conventional sewing machine is available.  
1.4 For other terms associated with textiles, refer to Terminology D 123.

General Information

• Status: Historical
• Publication Date: 31-Dec-1995
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.54 - Subassemblies

Relations

• Replaced By: ASTM D4965-96(2002) - Standard Terminology of Seams and Seam Finishes in Home Sewing
• Effective Date: 10-Nov-1995

Standards Content (Sample)

NOTICE: This standard has either been superceded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
Designation: D 4965 – 96
Standard Terminology of
Seams and Seam Finishes Used in Home Sewing
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4965; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This terminology provides a uniform, easily understood
language for the definitions and descriptions of seams and
seam finishes used in home sewing.
1.1.1 These seams and seam finishes may be produced on a
conventional sewing machine or by hand.
1.1.2 These terms and definitions are not necessarily appli-
cable to the apparel manufacturing industry.
1.2 This terminology provides a common base for use in the
preparation of educational materials and pattern guide sheets
FIG. 1 Bound Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric
for home sewing.
1.3 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropriate if
armscye seam allowances of an unlined jacket or on a bound neckline.
equipment other than the conventional sewing machine is
clean-finish seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in
available.
which the cut edge is folded under and the fold line is edge
1.4 For other terms associated with textiles, refer to Termi-
stitched. (See Fig. 2.) (Syn. turned and stitched seam
nology D 123.
finish.)
2. Referenced Documents
DISCUSSION—A clean-finish seam finish is made by (1) turning under
2.1 ASTM Standards: each cut edge of a plain seam allowance approximately 3 to 6 mm ( ⁄8
2 1
to ⁄4 in.) and (2) stitching close to the folded edge. A stabilizing line of
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textile Materials
2 stitching 3 to 6 mm from a curved cut edge will facilitate turning before
D 1353 Terminology of Basic Sewing Machine Stitches
stitching close to the fold.
3. Terminology
complex seam, n—in home sewing, a seam made in two or
3.1 Definitions:
more steps. (Ant. plain seam.)
back side, n—in textile materials, the side of the material that DISCUSSION—Complex seams have one or more stitching lines as part
of their construction and include double-welt seams, flat-felled seams,
faces innermost in the completed product. (Ant. face side,
French seams, lapped seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tucked
right side. Syn. wrong side.)
seams, and welt seams. They do not include plain seams or seam
bound seam-finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in
finishes or decorative additions to seams.
which another material is used to enclose the cut edges of
one or more seam allowances. (Compare Hong Kong seam double-welt seam, n—in home sewing, a complex seam
finish.) (See Fig. 1.) formed on the inside of the product, in which one trimmed
seam allowance is enclosed and two rows of stitching are
DISCUSSION—A bound seam-finish is made by (1) enclosing the cut
visible on the face side. (Compare welt seam. Syn. mock
seam allowance edge(s) in another fabric and (2) machine stitching
flat-felled seam.) (See Fig. 3.)
through all thicknesses close to the edge of the binding. Material used
may be strips of lightweight bias-cut woven fabric or lightweight knit
DISCUSSION—A double-welt seam is made like a welt seam except
fabric such as tricot or net. If tape or binding is used, the wider fold side
that it has a second row of topstitching close to the original seamline.
of the tape or binding is positioned underneath the seam allowance.
The three rows of stitching visible on the back side are the original
Usually each seam allowance edge is enclosed individually; however,
seam line, the row of stitching through the outermost layer of the sewn
seam allowances may be placed together and treated as one, such as the
product and the wider of the seam allowances, and the row added near
the original seam line.
This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 on
edge-stitched seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish
Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.53 on Practices.
in which machine stitching is placed close to the cut edge of
Current edition approved Nov. 10, 1995 and February 10, 1996. Published July
each seam allowance. (Compare zigzagged seam finish.)
1996. Originally published as D 4965 – 89a. Last previous edition D 4965 – 95.
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01. (See Fig. 4.)
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NOTICE: This standard has either been superceded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
D4965–96
FIG. 2 Clean-Finish Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric
FIG. 5 Flat-Felled Seam from Face Side of Fabric
FIG. 3 Double-Welt Seam from Face Side of Fabric
FIG. 6 French Seam from Back Side of Fabric
from the cut edges, (3) pressing the seam open, (4) trimming the seam
allowance to 3 mm ( ⁄8 in.) if the fabric does not ravel easily, or to
slightly less than 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) if the fabric ravels easily, (5) clipping
or notching the curved seam allowances such that they respectively will
fit the larger or smaller area, against which they will be pressed, (6)
folding the face sides of the fabric together, (7) pressing again with the
stitched seamline exactly on the folded edge, and (8) stitching 6 mm
from the folded edge. By using this procedure, the cut edges of the
trimmed seam allowance are enclosed completely. The two seam
allowances make a total of 15 mm ( ⁄8 in.), the standard seam allowance
FIG. 4 Edge-Stitched Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric
width. No stitching lines are visible from the face side. French seams
are more appropriate for straight seams than curved seams.
DISCUSSION—An edge-stitched seam finish is made by straight
1 1
glued seam, n—in home sewing, a seam formed by the use of
stitching approximately 3 to 6 mm ( ⁄8 to ⁄4 in.) from each cut edge of
each seam allowance. an adhesive. (Compare sewn seam, stapled seam, ther-
mally bonded seam.)
face side, n—in textile materials, the side of the material that
is outermost in the completed product. (Ant. back side, DISCUSSION—Adhesive may be glue, heat-fusible web or powder, or
hot glue.
wrong side. Syn. right side.)
flat-felled seam, n—in home sewing, a complex seam formed
hand-overcast seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish
on the outside of a product with cut edges enclosed and two
in which hand stitches are sewn such that the thread wraps
rows of machine stitching visible from the face side. (See
around the cut edges of each seam allowance. (See Fig. 7.)
Fig. 5(a) and (b).)
DISCUSSION—A flat-felled seam is made by (1) stitching a basic seam
with the back sides together, (2) pressing both seam allowances to one
side, (3) trimming the under seam allowance to approximately ⁄8 in. (3
mm), (4) turning under the cut edge of the upper seam allowance, and
(5) topstitching close to the fold.
French seam, n—in home sewing, a complex seam formed on
the inside of a product with both cut edges enclosed and no
stitching rows visible on the face side. (Compare mock
French seam.) (See Fig. 6.)
DISCUSSION—A French seam is made by (1) placing two sections of
fabric with back sides together, (2) stitching a seam line 10 mm ( ⁄8 in.) FIG. 7 Hand-Overcast Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric
NOTICE: This standard has either been superceded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
D4965–96
DISCUSSION—A hand-overcase seam finish is made by using a needle
and thread to form stitches that are approximately 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) apart
1 1
and3to6mm( ⁄8 to ⁄4 in.) inside the cut edges of the seam allowance.
The cut edge of each seam allowance is wrapped by the thread that
passes over the edge.
Hong Kong seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in
which a binding fabric is used to encase the cut edge of each
seam allowance separately and in which the binding fabric
has one cut edge enclosed and the other cut edge exposed.
(Compare bound seam finish.) (See Fig. 8.)
(a) (d)
DISCUSSION—A Hong Kong seam finish is made by (1) selecting a
FIG. 9 Lapped Seam for Leather or Nonwoven Fabric from Face
strip of light weight bias-cut woven fabric, lightweight knit such as
Side of Material
tricot or tulle, or commercial bias tape pressed open (25 mm (1 in.)
wide), (2) placing the bias strip against a seam allowance, face sides
lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric, n—in home
together and cut edges even, (3) stitching 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) from the cut
sewing, a complex seam formed on the inside of the product
edges, (4) pressing the binding away from the seam and over the cut
with neither raw cut edge enclosed, and having one visible
edge toward the underside of the seam allowance, and (6) stitching in
the previously formed stitching line on the face side of the seam
line of topstitching on the face side and a small fold formed
allowance, thus securing the under layer of the folded binding to the
by the topstitching. (Compare tucked seam.) (See Fig. 10.)
under side of the seam allowance (sometimes called“ stitch-in-the-
DISCUSSION—A lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric is made by
ditch”). The excess binding fabric may be trimmed close to the
(1) folding under the seam allowance of the overlapping section along
stitching.
the 15-mm ( ⁄8-in.) seamline and pressing, then (2) working from the
inside seam, n—in home sewing, a seam having seam allow-
right side and pinning the folded edge over the underlap section with
ances located within the interior, or the underside, of the
the fold along the seamline, and (3) stitching close to the fold through
all layers. Basting before stitching may be needed.
product. (Compare outside seam.)
DISCUSSION—Examples of inside seams include double-welt seams, material, n—in home sewing, a planar structure such as textile
French seams, lapped seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tucked
fabric, plastic film, or leather.
seams, and welt seams.
DISCUSSION—“Materials” used may include fabric, fur, leather and
joining line, n—See seam.
plastic film. Joining methods for seams may vary.
lapped seam,— except the topstitching is farther from the fold
mock flat-felled seam, n—See double-welt seam.
1 3
than that of a lapped seam 6 to 10 mm ( ⁄4 to ⁄8 in.).
mock French seam, n—in home sewing, a complex seam
turned and stitched seam finish, n—See clean finished seam
formed on the inside of the product with cut edges enclosed
finish.
and no stitching visible on the face side; similar in appear-
lapped seam for leather or nonwoven material, n—in home
ance to the French seam but constructed differently. (Com-
sewing, a complex seam formed on the outside of the
pare French seam.) (See Fig. 11.)
product, with neither cut edge enclosed and having one or
DISCUSSION—A mock French seam is made by (1) placing two pieces
two rows of stitching and a cut edge visible from the outside.
of fabric with face sides together, (2) stitching on the 15-mm ( ⁄8-in.)
(Compare lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric.) (See
seamline, (3) trimming both seam allowances to 12 mm ( ⁄2 in.), (4)
Fig. 9(a) and (d).)
clipping or notching, as appropriate, 3 mm ( ⁄8 in.) on any curved edges
DISCUSSION—A lapped seam for leather or nonwoven fabric is made so that curved seam allowances can fit the area against which they are
by (1) marking the corresponding seamlines on both pieces, (2) folded and pressed, (5) pressing open the seam, (6) then folding and
5 1
trimming off the entire seam allowance (15 mm ( ⁄8 in.)) on the overlap pressing each of the seam allowances 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) toward the other
or top section, (3) lapping the cut edge of the trimmed overlap section and the seamline, bringing the folded edges together, and (7) stitching
over the bottom section, butting the cut edge to the marked seamline the two seam allowances together 1.5 mm ( ⁄16 in.) from the folded
beneath, and (4) gluing in place and topstitching with one or two rows edges. Mock French seams are more appropriate for curved areas than
of stitching. Both gluing and topstitching may be used. This seam is French seams.
used on leather, nonwoven leather-like material, and vinyl where an
exposed cut edge is not a concern.
FIG. 10 Lapped Seam for Woven or Knitted Fabric from Face
FIG. 8 Hong Kong Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric Side of Fabric
NOTICE: This standard has either been superceded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
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D4965–96
FIG. 13 b Plain Seam Reinforced from Back Side of Fabric
FIG. 11 Mock French Seam from Back Side of Fabric
outside seam, n—in home sewing, a seam in which the seam
allowance of the completed seam is visible from the face
side of the sewn product. (Compare inside seam.)
DISCUSSION—An example of an outside seam is the flat-felled seam.
plain seam, n—in home sewing, a seam formed by a single line
of stitching. (Ant. complex seam.) (See Figs. 12 and 13.)
DISCUSSION—A plain seam joins two or more material sections;
multiple layers of material may be treated as a single layer or section.
FIG. 14 Pinked Seam Finish from Back Side of Material
Cut edges of the seam allowance in a plain seam may or may not have
a finish applied. Sometimes a plain seam is reinforced by machine
stitching again through both seam allowances together approximately 3
1 1
to6mm( ⁄8 to ⁄4 in.) from the original seam line within the seam
allowance. Reinforcement is appropriate for armscye, crotch, and
waistline seams. Reinforcement stitching may be along a section of a
seam (as in a crotch seam) or along an entire seam (such as in a
waistline seam). Seams that are reinforced are not pressed open.
pinked seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in
which a zigzagged or scalloped cut edge is produced.
(Compare stitched and pinked seam finish). (See Fig. 14).
DISCUSSION—A pinked seam finish is made by trimming, with
FIG. 15 Rolled Seam-Finish from Back Side of Fabric
pinking or scalloping shears, close to the cut edge of the seam
allowance. This seam finish is more decorative than functional.
seam, n—in home sewing, a line along which two or more
sections of a product have been joined. (Syn. joining line.
right side, n—See face side.
See also glued seam, sewn seam, stapled seam, thermally
rolled seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in which
bonded seam.)
both cut edges are enclosed by rolling them to one side and
hand stitching the rolled edge close to the seam line within
DISCUSSION—Materials used may include fabric, fur,
...