ASTM D3181-95
(Guide)Standard Guide for Conducting Wear Tests on Textiles
Standard Guide for Conducting Wear Tests on Textiles
SCOPE
1.1 This guide is designed to provide data on which a prediction can be based concerning the expected wear performance of a wide variety of textiles in end-use conditions.
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
Designation: D 3181 – 95
Standard Guide for
Conducting Wear Tests on Textiles
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3181; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D 3597 Performance Specification for Woven Upholstery
Fabrics—Plain, Tufted, or Flocked
1.1 This guide is designed to provide data on which a
D 3884 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
prediction can be based concerning the expected wear perfor-
Fabrics (Rotary Platform, Double-Head Method)
mance of a wide variety of textiles in end-use conditions.
D 3885 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the
Fabrics (Flexing and Abrasion Method)
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
D 3886 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
Fabrics (Inflated Diaphragm Method)
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
D 3936 Test Method for Delamination Strength of Second-
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
ary Backing of Pile Floor Coverings
2. Referenced Documents
D 3938 Guide for Evaluation of Textile Products in Relation
to Refurbishing Described on Care Labels
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D 3939 Test Method for Snagging Resistance of Fabrics
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
(Mace Test Method)
D 1335 Test Method for Tuft Bind of Pile Floor Coverings
D 4157 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
D 1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven
Fabrics (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)
Fabrics
D 4158 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
D 2051 Test Method for Durability of Finish of Zippers to
Fabrics (Uniform Abrasion Method)
Laundering
D 4231 Practice for Evaluation of Men’s and Boy’s Home
D 2052 Test Method for Colorfastness of Zippers to Dry-
Launderable Woven Dress Shirts and Sport Shirts
cleaning
D 4390 Practice for Evaluating of the Performance of Terry
D 2057 Test Method for Colorfastness of Zippers to Laun-
Bathroom Products for Household Use
dering
D 4720 Practice for Evaluation of the Performance of Soft
D 2058 Test Method for Durability of Finish of Zippers to
Window Coverings
Drycleaning
D 4721 Practice for Evaluating the Performance of Woven
D 2062 Test Method for Operability of Zippers
and Knit Machine Washable and Drycleanable Bedcover-
D 2401 Test Method for Service Change of Appearance of
ings and Accessories
Pile Floor Coverings
D 4852 Practice for Evaluation of Attached Upholstery
D 2960 Test Method of Controlled Laundering Test Using
Fabrics
Naturally Soiled Fabrics and Household Appliances
2.2 AATCC Standards:
D 3511 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-
5 Evaluation Procedure: Subjective Evaluation of Fabric
lated Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Brush Pilling
Hand
Tester Method
8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method
D 3512 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-
88B Appearance of Seams in Wash-and-Wear Items After
lated Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble
Home Laundering
Pilling Tester Method
88C Appearance of Creases in Wash-and-Wear Items After
D 3514 Test Method for Resistance of Apparel Fabrics to
Home Laundering
Pilling (Elastomeric Pad Method)
96 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven and
Knitted Textiles (Excluding Wool)
119 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Screen
This guide is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 on Textiles and
Wire Method
is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.53 on Practices.
Current edition approved Feb. 15, 1989. Published April 1995. Originally
120 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Emery
published as D 3181 – 73 T. Last previous edition D 3181 – 89.
Method
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.
Discontinued; see 1992 Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.
4 6
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 15.04. Annual AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.02. Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.
Copyright © ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
D 3181
121 Carpet Soiling: Visual Rating Method the number of wearing or uses an item receives prior to
122 Carpet Soiling: Service Soiling Method refurbishing (that is, laundering or drycleaning), or both.
3.1.10 wear-service condition, n—the specific conditions
123 Carpet Soiling: Accelerated Soiling Method
124 Appearance of Fabrics After Repeated Home Launder- under which a textile is used.
3.1.11 wear test, n—a test in which textiles are subjected to
ings
128 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance Method wear-service conditions and evaluated for performance.
3.1.12 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
130 Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method
practice, refer to Terminology D 123.
150 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering
of Woven Garments
4. Summary of Guide
158 Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroeth-
4.1 Textiles are subjected to actual wear under service
ylene: Machine Method
conditions. This practice recommends a control textile having
163 Color Fastness: Dye Transfer in Storage: Fabric-to-
6 a known wear performance history to be included with other
Fabric
items being tested. Statistical methods for design of test and
2.3 Other Documents:
7 analysis of data are included that are applicable to all wear
Knit Upholstery Fabric Standards and Guidelines
8 tests. Standard procedures for evaluation of textiles are pro-
Woven Upholstery Fabric Standards and Guidelines
vided.
3. Terminology
5. Significance and Use
3.1 Definitions:
5.1 This guide may be used to evaluate textiles used in
3.1.1 control textile, n—a textile having a known history,
apparel, upholstered furniture, floor coverings, window treat-
the performance of which in a specific end-use has been
ments, and bed, bath and table linens.
established previously, and which is used as a standard of
5.2 This guide may be used for several purposes:
comparison.
5.2.1 To determine the comparative performance of new or
3.1.2 end-use, n—in wear testing, the use for which a textile
existing products,
is intended.
5.2.2 To determine the suitability of current products in
3.1.3 evaluation period, n—the period of time an item is
different end-uses, and
used before being evaluated on the specific performance
5.2.3 To evaluate and compare the effect of wear of con-
properties.
struction details as well as specific fabrics, fibers, dyeings,
3.1.4 grade, n—in textile testing, the symbol for any step of
finishing, fabrication techniques, etc.
a multistep standard reference scale, for a quality characteris-
5.3 This guide provides for flexibility in design and evalu-
tic.
ation since the information sought from each wear test will
3.1.4.1 Discussion—The grade is assigned to test specimen
vary (see Appendix X1).
exhibiting a degree of the quality comparable to that step of the
5.4 This guide may be used to compare the wear perfor-
standard. Numerical grades assigned to different specimens
mance of two or more textiles when these are included in the
from a sample, or by different observers are commonly
same test, or to compare a textile whose properties have not
averaged (AATCC).
been evaluated with one having a known performance history.
3.1.5 participant, n— in wear testing, any individual that
uses a test or control textile during a wear test. 6. Apparatus
3.1.5.1 Discussion—The term does not include additional
6.1 Viewing Board, with standard lighting, as specified in
personnel contributing other services needed to carry out a test.
AATCC 124.
3.1.6 performance property, n— in wear testing, any chemi-
6.2 Smoothness Appearance Replicas, as specified in
cal or physical property of a fiber, yarn, or fabric that is
AATCC 124.
evaluated during the wear-refurbishing cycles.
6.3 Gray Scale for Color Change, as specified in AATCC
3.1.7 rating, n—in textile testing, the process for determin-
Evaluation Procedure 1.
ing or assigning a grade to a material by comparing it to a
6.4 Soil Release Replicas, as specified in AATCC 130-1981.
standard reference scale.
6.5 Pilling Standards, as specified in Test Method D 3512.
3.1.8 wear level, n—the number of wear-refurbishing cycles
6.6 Seam Puckering Standards, as specified in AATCC
to which an item has been subjected.
88B-1984.
3.1.9 wear-refurbishing cycle, n—for a specific wear testing
6.7 Crease Retention Standards, as specified in AATCC
program, one complete series of events that may be terminated
88C.
by laundering or dry cleaning.
6.8 Photographic Standards for Evaluating Shirt Compo-
3.1.9.1 Discussion—A description of a wear-refurbishing
nents (collar, pocket, placket), as specified in Practice D 4231.
cycle usually includes the number of hours worn or used and
6.9 Work Sheets, to record data (see Fig. 1).
7. Sampling, Selection, and Number of Specimens
7.1 Division into Lots—For acceptance testing, divide the
Issued in 1982 by the Joint-Industry Fabric Standards Committee. Available
from the American Furniture Mfrs. Assc., P. O. Box Hp-7, High Point, NC 27261.
Re-issued in 1986 by the Joint-Industry Fabric Standards Committee. Available
from the American Furniture Mfrs. Assc., P. O. Box Hp-7, High Point, NC 27261. This is the same as ISO R105/1, Part 2.
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
D 3181
Wear Test Identification Number ____________
Wear Level _____________________________
Fabric Identification ______________________
PARTICIPANTS
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 etc.
Evaluation Date
Times Worn
Hours Worn
Times Refurbished
Abrasion
Bagging
Color Change
Crease Retention
Dimensional Stability
Fabric Smoothness
Holes
% Length Change
% Width Change
Pilling
Seam Puckering
Snagging
Washdown (Hand)
Wear Wrinkling
Etc.
FIG. 1 Wear Test Work Sheet
product into lots as agreed upon between the purchaser and the mance to meet the objectives of the test (see Note 2).
supplier.
NOTE 2—These values are established based on experience and may
7.2 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing,
vary with end use. There are generally accepted techniques or references
take at random the number of shipping cartons directed in an
for establishing these values.
applicable material specification or other agreement between
8.8 Identify which evaluation procedures are destructive
the purchaser and the supplier.
and nondestructive. Nondestructive evaluations can occur dur-
NOTE 1—A realistic specification or other agreement between the
ing the total wear period at predetermined times. Destructive
purchaser and the supplier requires taking into account the variability
evaluations should occur at the end of the total wear period,
between shipping cartons, between items within a carton, and between
unless additional textile items are included in the initial wear
specimens within an item so as to provide a sampling plan which has a
test plan for withdrawal and destructive testing.
meaningful producer’s risk, meaningful consumer’s risk, acceptable
8.9 Establish the wear period at which time the test is
quality level, and limiting quality level.
terminated automatically.
7.3 Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample for accep-
8.10 Alternatively, establish the percentage of specimens
tance testing, take at least two items from each shipping carton
that must fail to constitute overall unsatisfactory performance.
in the lot sample.
Terminate the test when the established level for failure has
7.4 Test Specimens—Take test specimens from each item in
been reached (see Note 2).
the laboratory sample as directed in the individual test methods
8.11 Establish the number of wear-refurbishing cycles that
or as agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier.
will constitute overall satisfactory performance. The wear test
Perform each test on the product as it will reach the consumer.
may be terminated at this point even though no specimen may
8. Procedure
have failed.
8.12 Define the use-refurbishing cycle by establishing the
8.1 Decide on the type and design of the textile to be tested.
number of hours (days) worn or used, and the number of uses
8.2 Define the objectives of the test clearly.
8.3 List the information to be obtained from the test. the textile will receive before refurbishing, or both, and the
method by which the item will be refurbished.
8.4 Select the performance properties that must be evaluated
to obtain the necessary information. See Table 1. 8.13 Select a suitable control textile to include in the test as
a standard of comparison.
8.5 Decide which specific areas of the textile will be
evaluated for each property. See Table 2. 8.14 Based on the number of conditions being tested, as
8.6 Establish how each performance property will be evalu- well as the time and cost involved, develop a suitable design
ated and what rating scale will be used. for the wear test (see Appendix X1).
8.7 For each performance property, decide what test value 8.15 Decide on, and arrange for, the number of participants
or grade will constitute a satisfactory or unsatisfactory perfor- needed to conduct the test according to the selected plan.
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
D 3181
TABLE 1 Properties That May Be Examined After Each Wear- TABLE 2 Examples of Areas of Potential Wear That May Be
Refurbishing Cycle or Evaluation Period Evaluated
Existing Test Methods or Garment Area
Property
Other Standards
Shirts and blouses collar, right and left
Possibilities for Apparel Evaluation cuff, right and left
Abrasion Resistance D 3884, D 3885
elbow, right and left
D 3886, D 4157 underarm, right and left
Appearance of collar D 4231 pocket, right and left
Appearance of creases AATCC 88-C front, right and left
Appearance of pocket D 4231 back
Appearance of placket D 4231 placket
Appearance of seams AATCC 88-B, Trousers and ladies slacks front pocket
...
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