ASTM F1773-97(2004)
(Terminology)Standard Terminology Relating to Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment and Practices
Standard Terminology Relating to Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment and Practices
SCOPE
1.1 This terminology defines the terms that are unique to climbing and mountaineering and the statistical basis for rating a product's performance.
General Information
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Standards Content (Sample)
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Designation:F1773–97(Reapproved 2004)
Standard Terminology Relating to
Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment and Practices
This standard is issued under the fixed designation F1773; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3.1.9 free climbing, n—a technique of climbing that uses
only the natural features of the surface being climbed. In free
1.1 This terminology defines the terms that are unique to
climbing, equipment may be utilized to provide protection in
climbing and mountaineering and the statistical basis for rating
the event of a fall, but is not used to assist progress.
a product’s performance.
3.1.10 lead climbing, n—the skill of climbing first up a
2. Referenced Documents pitch, utilizing a belayer, climbing rope, and intermediate
protection anchors.
2.1 ASTM Standards:
3.1.11 rappel, n—the set up of anchors and equipment used
E456 Terminology Relating to Quality and Statistics
to rappel.
E1150 Definitions of Terms Relating to Fatigue
3.1.12 rappel, v—to descend by sliding down a rope using
3. Terminology
equipment or special technique, or both, which applies friction,
thereby controlling the speed of descent.
3.1 Definitions of General Climbing and Mountaineering
3.1.13 route, n—the path chosen by a climber.
Terms:
3.1.14 self belay, n—a technique of self protection em-
3.1.1 aid climbing, n—a technique of climbing that utilizes
ployed by a climber using climbing and mountaineering
auxiliary devices as a means of ascent to supplement the
equipment.
natural features of the surface being climbed.
3.1.15 soloing, n—a technique of climbing where the
3.1.2 belay, n—a technique where a stationary person
climber is alone. A belay may or may not be used.
controls a rope connected to a moving climber in order to
3.1.16 top rope climbing, n—a technique of climbing
provide protection against a fall, or in the event of a fall, to
where the climber is safeguarded by a roped belay from above.
catch the climber.
3.2 Definitions of Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment
3.1.3 belay, v—to protect a climber with a belay.
Terms:
3.1.4 belayer, n—a person who is belaying.
3.2.1 accessory cord, n—ropes used for climbing and
3.1.5 bouldering, n—a technique of climbing where climb-
mountaineering purposes that are not designed to absorb fall
ers remain close to the ground and do not use a rope to
impact energy.
safeguard their progress.
3.2.2 artificial climbing wall (ACW), n—a wall exclu-
3.1.6 climber, n—a person engaging in the sport of climb-
sively designed and built for climbing. The ACWs may be
ing and mountaineering.
designed and used for lead climbing, top rope climbing or
3.1.7 climbing and mountaineering, n—the sport of as-
bouldering. The ACWs may be transportable or permanent.
cending, descending, and traversing on mountainous terrain,
3.2.3 ascender, n—a device used to ascend a rope.
snow and ice, and natural and simulated rock surfaces.
3.2.4 belay anchor, n—an anchor used to secure the rope or
3.1.8 climbing and mountaineering equipment, n—the
belayer, or both, while belaying a climber. It also may be used
equipment exclusively designed for use in climbing and
with ropes while descending or lowering.
mountaineering.
3.2.5 belay bar, n—a belay anchor made from pipe or a bar.
3.2.6 belay device, n—a mechanical device used to control
This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee F32 on Search
the friction on a rope.
and Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment,
3.2.7 belay station, n—a place where belay anchors are
Testing, and Maintenance.
located.
Current edition approved May 1, 2004. Published May 2004. Originally
3.2.8 bolt hanger, n—a device which, when attached to a
approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 1997 as F1773 – 97. DOI:
10.1520/F1773-97R04.
surface by the means of a bolt, is used to provide an anchor
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
point.
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
3.2.9 carabiner, n—a self-closing, gated, load-bearing,
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
the ASTM website. connective device.
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F1773–97 (2004)
3.2.10 carabiner, locking, n—a carabiner with a gate- tect a climber by cushioning the impact of a fall. Climbing
locking mechanism. ropes sometimes are referred to as dynamic ropes.
3.2.11 carabiner, nonlocking, n—a carabiner without a double, n—a half rope.
gate-locking mechanism. half, n—a climbing rope that must be used with another half
3.2.12 chock, n—adevicethatisplacedinacrackorpocket rope with one or both ropes being attached to protection
in rock and designed to withstand a load applied through anchors.
webbing, rope, wire, or a carabiner.
single, n—a climbing rope that may be used alone.
3.2.13 chock, active, n—a chock containing moving parts twin, n—a special type of half rope in which both rope strands
that control its width.
are used as one with both running through the same
3.2.14 chock, passive, n—a chock containing no moving protection anchors.
parts.
3.2.34 runner, n—a sewn or tied loop of webbing or rope
3.2.15 crampon, n—a foot-mounted piece of equipment designed to support a load.
with spikes designed to provide traction or support on snow 3.2.35 quick draw, n—a short runner.
and ice.
3.2.36 screw, ice n—a device designed to be screwed into
3.2.16 descender, n—a rappel device. ice to provide a belay or p
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