ASTM D204-02(2010)e1
(Test Method)Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads
Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the individual test method. These test methods are the best available and are used extensively in the trade.
If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more) comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative tests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
SCOPE
1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing threads of any fiber.
1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders.
1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not address any other properties that may be important for the satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular end use conditions.
General Information
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Standards Content (Sample)
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
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Designation: D204 − 02(Reapproved 2010)
Standard Test Methods for
Sewing Threads
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D204; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
ε NOTE—The Multifiber Test Fabric No. 18 referenced in 66.1 was corrected to No. 10 editorially in September 2010.
1. Scope priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing
threads of any fiber.
2. Referenced Documents
1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to
evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders. 2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of
D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles
sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
address any other properties that may be important for the
D1422 Test Method for Twist in Single Spun Yarns by the
satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular
Untwist-Retwist Method
end use conditions.
D1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-Counting
1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the follow- D1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven
ing properties:
Apparel Fabrics
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
Sections
Colorfastness to Drycleaning 73-83
D1777 Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials
Colorfastness to Laundering 62-72
D1907 Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Num-
Colorfastness to Water Migration 84-94
Diameter 43-50
ber) by the Skein Method
Length per Thread Holder 34-42
D2256 Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yarns by the
Shrinkage, Single Strand 51-61
Single-Strand Method
Dry Heat 58.1
Boiling Water 58.2
D2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing
Strength and Elongation 15-21
D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated
Single Strand—Conditioned 19.1.1
Single Strand—Wet 19.1.2
Apparel Fabrics
Loop Strength 19.2
D3693 Specification for Labeled Length per Holder of
Knot Strength 19.3
Twist 22-27 Sewing Thread
Twist Balance 28-33
D3823 Practice for DeterminingTicket Numbers for Sewing
Yarn Number 7-14
Threads
NOTE 1—For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to Test
D3940 Test Method for Bursting Strength (Load) and Elon-
Methods D1683 and D3940.
gation of Sewn Seams of Knit or Woven Stretch Textile
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as
Fabrics (Withdrawn 1995)
standard; the values in English units are provided as informa-
D4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and
tion only and are not exact equivalents.
Related Properties of Textiles
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the
D4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
D6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
1 2
These test methods are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
Textiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Fibers. Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
Current edition approved June 1, 2010. Published July 2010. Originally the ASTM website.
published as D204 – 24 T. Last previous edition approved in 2002 as D204 – 02. The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
DOI: 10.1520/D0204-10E01. www.astm.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
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D204 − 02 (2010)
2.2 AATCC Standards: 5. Sampling
Test Method 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home
5.1 LotSample—Asalotsampleforacceptancetesting,take
Laundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics
at random the number of shipping units directed in an
Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change
applicable material specification or other agreement between
Evaluation Procedure 3, Chromatic Transference Scale
the purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to use
Practice D2258. Consider shipping cases or other shipping
3. Terminology
units to be the primary sampling units.
3.1 Definitions:
NOTE 2—An adequate specification or other agreement between the
3.1.1 Refer to Terminology D4848 for definitions of the
purchaserandthesupplierrequirestakingintoaccountvariabilitybetween
following terms used in this standard elongation; force and
shipping units, between packages, or ends within a shipping unit, and
loop-breaking force.
betweenspecimensfromasinglepackagesoastoprovideasamplingplan
3.1.2 Refer to Terminology D4849 for definitions of the
with a meaningful producer’s risk, consumer’s risk, acceptable quality
level, and limiting quality level.
following terms used in this standard colorfastness; covered
yarn, greige thread, growth, sew, sewing force, sewing thread,
5.2 Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample for accep-
tex, thread holder, ticket number, and yarn number.
tance testing, take at random from each shipping unit in the lot
3.1.3 Refer to Terminology D123 for definitions of other
sample the number of packages or ends directed in an
terms used in this standard including the following; shrinkage,
applicable material specification or other agreement to use
stitch, stitching, stitch type, and twist balance.
Practice D2258. Preferably, the same number of packages
should be taken from each shipping unit in the lot sample. If
4. Significance and Use
differing numbers of packages are to be taken from shipping
4.1 Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods
units in the lot sample, determine at random which shipping
D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread
units are to have each number of packages drawn.
are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commer-
5.3 Test Specimens—From each package in the laboratory
cial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the
sample, take three specimens, unless otherwise specified.
individual test method. These test methods are the best
When packages contain more than one parallel wound end,
available and are used extensively in the trade.
select one end from which to prepare the three specimens.
4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance be-
tween reported test results for two laboratories (or more)
6. Conditioning
comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a
6.1 For routine testing, condition the samples as directed in
statistical bias between them using competent statistical assis-
Practice D1776.
tance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative
teststhatareashomogeneousaspossible,drawnfromthesame
6.2 When preconditioning is specified in a material specifi-
lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results
cation or contract order precondition the prepared specimens
during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers
foratleast3hinanatmospherewithrelativehumiditybetween
to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories
10 and 25 % and a temperature not exceeding 50°C (122°F) as
involved should be compared using a statistical test for
directed in Practice D1776.
unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing
6.2.1 After preconditioning, expose the specimens to mov-
series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and
ingairinthestandardatmospherefortestingtextiles,21 61°C
corrected, or future test results for that material must be
(706 2°F) and 65 6 2 % relative humidity, until the mass of
adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
the specimen(s) increases by no more than 0.1 % after2hin
the standard atmosphere.
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.
Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.
YARN NUMBER
7. Scope 9. Significance and Use
9.1 This test method should be used to establish standard
7.1 This test method determines the resultant yarn number
ticket numbers for sewing threads according to Practice
of all types of sewing threads taken from a thread holder.
D3823.
8. Summary of Test Method
10. Apparatus
8.1 Ameasured length of conditioned thread is wound on a
10.1 Reel:
reel and weighed. The resultant yarn number is expressed in
10.1.1 General—A hand or motor-driven reel having a
tex. specified perimeter. The reel shall be fitted with a traversing
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D204 − 02 (2010)
TABLE 2 Number of Wraps to be Reeled in Any One Skein in
mechanism that will avoid bunching the successive wraps, and
Checking Length by Skein Method
with an indicator of the length wound.Awarning bell that will
1.5 yd Reel
ring at a specified length is recommended. It is advisable that
Resultant Yarn Number 1-m Reel Perimeter
Perimeter
one arm be collapsible to allow for easy removal of skeins.
All thread finer than 50 tex 200 wraps 200 wraps
10.2 Balance: 200 m 300 yd
Threads of 50 tex up to 100 tex 100 wraps 100 wraps
10.2.1 For the determination of mean yarn number, a
100 m 150 yd
balance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensi-
All threads 100 tex and coarser 50 wraps 50 wraps
50 m 75 yd
tivity of 1 part in 100.
10.2.2 For ascertaining the completion of conditioning, a
balance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensi-
tivity of 1 part in 1000 needed.
13. Report
11. Conditioning
13.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
11.1 Use skeins wound with the given wraps as noted in Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampled
and the method of sampling used.
Table 1 and follow the directions given in Section 6.
13.2 Report the following information:
12. Procedure
13.2.1 Mean yarn number to three significant figures,
12.1 Determine the resultant yarn number in tex as directed
13.2.2 Coefficient of variation of yarn number to two
in Option 1 of Test Method D1907, except that in place of
significant figures,
Table 2 in D1907 use Table 1 of Test Methods D204.
13.2.3 Reel perimeter,
13.2.4 Length of skein, and
TABLE 1 Number of Wraps for Determining Resultant Yarn
13.2.5 Number of specimens.
Number
1.5 yd Reel
Resultant Yarn Number 1-m Reel Perimeter 14. Precision and Bias
Perimeter
All thread finer than 250 tex 100 wraps 80 wraps 14.1 The precision and bias for testing yarn number are as
100 m 120 yd
given in Test Method D1907.
All threads 250 tex and coarser 10 wraps 8 wraps
10 m 12 yd
STRENGTH AND ELONGATION
15. Scope 17.1.2 Loop Strength—The loop breaking strength is a
measure of the thread’s ability to contribute to seam perfor-
15.1 Thistestmethodcanbeusedtodeterminesinglestrand
mance. Loop breaking strength of a thread bears a direct
breaking force and elongation of sewing threads. Single strand
relationship to stitch breaking strength and hence to seam
testing includes loop strength, knot strength and elongation at
breaking strength.
sewing forces.
17.1.3 Loop Elongation—The loop elongation of the thread
is one important factor contributing to elongation of a seam,
16. Summary of Test Method
along with the stitch and seam type, the number of stitches per
16.1 Single strand yarn specimens are broken on a tensile
inch, and the nature of the material stitched.
testing machine at a predetermined elongation rate and the
17.1.4 ElongationatSewingForce—The elongation at sew-
tensile properties are determined.
ingforceofathreadinfluencesitsbehaviorduringthestitching
cycle on a sewing machine.
16.2 The test method offers the following three physical
17.1.5 Knot Strength—The reduction in breaking force due
configurations of the specimen:
to the presence of a knot is considered a measure of the
16.2.1 straight,
brittleness of the thread.
16.2.2 looped,
16.2.3 knotted.
18. Conditioning
17. Significance and Use 18.1 Condition the specimens as directed in Section 6 of
these Test Methods D204.
17.1 There are several properties of sewing thread that are
significant with regards to sewing and seam performance,
19. Procedure
including: straight breaking strength, loop breaking strength,
loop elongation, elongation at sewing force, and knot strength. 19.1 Straight Strength and Elongation:
17.1.1 Straight Strength—The straight breaking strength of 19.1.1 Conditioned Threads—Select conditioned specimens
a thread can be used to calculate the loop breaking strength and determine breaking force and elongation as directed in
once a regression equation has been determined because the Option A1 of Test Method D2256 except that a 250 63mm
loop properties are strongly dependent on the straight strength. (10.0 6 0.1 in.) or 500 6 5 mm (20.0 6 0.2 in.) gage length
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D204 − 02 (2010)
and a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type tensile testing 270 g/m, or (4 to 8 oz/yd) range and at a force of 340 g ( ⁄4 lb)
machine having a jaw separation rate of 300 6 10 mm/min for thread used for seams in heavy fabrics 270 to 0.520 g/m (8
(12.0 6 0.5 in./min) shall be used. Disregard the 20 s to break to 15 oz/yd).
requirement.
20. Report
19.1.2 Wet Threads—Select conditioned specimens and de-
20.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
terminethebreakingforceandelongationasdirectedinOption
Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampled
A2 of Test Method D2256 except that a CRE type testing
and the method of sampling used.
machine having a jaw separation rate of 300 6 10 mm/min
20.2 Report the following information:
(12.0 6 0.5 in./min) shall be used. Disregard the 20 s to break
20.2.1 Options if other than A1,
requirement.
20.2.2 Testing machine type if other than CRE,
19.2 Loop Strength—Select conditioned specimens and de-
20.2.3 Gage length tested,
termine the loop breaking force as directed in Option C1 of
20.2.4 Number of specimens tested,
Test Method D2256. Disregard the 20 s to break.
20.2.5 Theaverageofthebreakingforcesforasampleisthe
sample breaking strength.
19.3 Knot Strength—Select conditioned specimens and de-
20.2.6 Average and coefficient of variation of percent elon-
termine the knot breaking force as directed in Option B1 of
gation at break or at specified force as determined for single-
Test Method D2256. Disregard the 20 s to break.
strand, knot and loop configurations, and
19.4 Elongation at Sewing Forces—Test the specimens as
20.2.7 Average elong
...
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