ASTM D204-02(2010)
(Test Method)Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads
Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the individual test method. These test methods are the best available and are used extensively in the trade.
If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more) comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative tests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
SCOPE
1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing threads of any fiber.
1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders.
1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not address any other properties that may be important for the satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular end use conditions.
1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the following properties:
General Information
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NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation:D204–02 (Reapproved 2010)
Standard Test Methods for
Sewing Threads
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D204; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. Scope 2. Referenced Documents
1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing 2.1 ASTM Standards:
threads of any fiber. D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles
1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders. D1422 Test Method for Twist in Single Spun Yarns by the
1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of Untwist-Retwist Method
sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not D1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-Counting
address any other properties that may be important for the D1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven
satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular Apparel Fabrics
end use conditions. D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the follow- D1777 Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials
ing properties: D1907 Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn
Number) by the Skein Method
Sections
Colorfastness to Drycleaning 73-83
D2256 Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yarns by the
Colorfastness to Laundering 62-72
Single-Strand Method
Colorfastness to Water Migration 84-94
D2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing
Diameter 43-50
Length per Thread Holder 34-42
D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated
Shrinkage, Single Strand 51-61
Apparel Fabrics
Dry Heat 58.1
Boiling Water 58.2 D3693 Specification for Labeled Length per Holder of
Strength and Elongation 15-21
Sewing Thread
Single Strand—Conditioned 19.1.1
D3823 Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sew-
Single Strand—Wet 19.1.2
Loop Strength 19.2 ing Threads
Knot Strength 19.3
D3940 NO TITLE
Twist 22-27
D4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and
Twist Balance 28-33
Related Properties of Textiles
Yarn Number 7-14
D4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
NOTE 1—For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to Test
D6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams
Methods D1683 and D3940.
2.2 AATCC Standards:
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as
Test Method 135 Dimensional Changes inAutomatic Home
standard; the values in English units are provided as informa-
Laundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics
tion only and are not exact equivalents.
Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the
Evaluation Procedure 3, Chromatic Transference Scale
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
3. Terminology
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
3.1 Definitions:
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1 2
These test methods are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
Textiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Fibers. Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
the ASTM website.
Current edition approved June 1, 2010. Published July 2010. Originally
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.
published as D204 – 24 T. Last previous edition approved in 2002 as D204 – 02.
DOI: 10.1520/D0204-10. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D204–02 (2010)
3.1.1 Refer to Terminology D4848 for definitions of the the purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to use
following terms used in this standard elongation; force and Practice D2258. Consider shipping cases or other shipping
loop-breaking force. units to be the primary sampling units.
3.1.2 Refer to Terminology D4849 for definitions of the
NOTE 2—An adequate specification or other agreement between the
following terms used in this standard colorfastness; covered
purchaserandthesupplierrequirestakingintoaccountvariabilitybetween
yarn, greige thread, growth, sew, sewing force, sewing thread,
shipping units, between packages, or ends within a shipping unit, and
tex, thread holder, ticket number, and yarn number.
betweenspecimensfromasinglepackagesoastoprovideasamplingplan
with a meaningful producer’s risk, consumer’s risk, acceptable quality
3.1.3 Refer to Terminology D123 for definitions of other
level, and limiting quality level.
terms used in this standard including the following; shrinkage,
stitch, stitching, stitch type, and twist balance.
5.2 Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample for accep-
tance testing, take at random from each shipping unit in the lot
4. Significance and Use
sample the number of packages or ends directed in an
4.1 Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods
applicable material specification or other agreement to use
D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread
Practice D2258. Preferably, the same number of packages
are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commer-
should be taken from each shipping unit in the lot sample. If
cial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the
differing numbers of packages are to be taken from shipping
individual test method. These test methods are the best
units in the lot sample, determine at random which shipping
available and are used extensively in the trade.
units are to have each number of packages drawn.
4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance be-
5.3 Test Specimens—From each package in the laboratory
tween reported test results for two laboratories (or more)
sample, take three specimens, unless otherwise specified.
comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a
When packages contain more than one parallel wound end,
statistical bias between them using competent statistical assis-
select one end from which to prepare the three specimens.
tance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative
teststhatareashomogeneousaspossible,drawnfromthesame
6. Conditioning
lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results
6.1 For routine testing, condition the samples as directed in
during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers
Practice D1776.
to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories
6.2 When preconditioning is specified in a material specifi-
involved should be compared using a statistical test for
cation or contract order precondition the prepared specimens
unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing
foratleast3hinanatmospherewithrelativehumiditybetween
series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and
10 and 25 % and a temperature not exceeding 50°C (122°F) as
corrected, or future test results for that material must be
directed in Practice D1776.
adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
6.2.1 After preconditioning, expose the specimens to mov-
5. Sampling
ingairinthestandardatmospherefortestingtextiles,21 61°C
5.1 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing, (706 2°F) and 65 6 2 % relative humidity, until the mass of
take at random the number of shipping units directed in an the specimen(s) increases by no more than 0.1 % after2hin
applicable material specification or other agreement between the standard atmosphere.
YARN NUMBER
7. Scope 10.1.1 General—A hand or motor-driven reel having a
specified perimeter. The reel shall be fitted with a traversing
7.1 This test method determines the resultant yarn number
mechanism that will avoid bunching the successive wraps, and
of all types of sewing threads taken from a thread holder.
with an indicator of the length wound.Awarning bell that will
ring at a specified length is recommended. It is advisable that
8. Summary of Test Method
one arm be collapsible to allow for easy removal of skeins.
8.1 Ameasured length of conditioned thread is wound on a
10.2 Balance:
reel and weighed. The resultant yarn number is expressed in
10.2.1 For the determination of mean yarn number, a
tex.
balance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensi-
tivity of 1 part in 100.
9. Significance and Use
10.2.2 For ascertaining the completion of conditioning, a
9.1 This test method should be used to establish standard balance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensi-
ticket numbers for sewing threads according to Practice tivity of 1 part in 1000 needed.
D3823.
11. Conditioning
10. Apparatus
11.1 Use skeins wound with the given wraps as noted in
10.1 Reel: Table 1 and follow the directions given in Section 6.
D204–02 (2010)
TABLE 1 Number of Wraps for Determining Resultant Yarn
12. Procedure
Number
12.1 Determine the resultant yarn number in tex as directed
1.5 yd Reel
Resultant Yarn Number 1-m Reel Perimeter in Option 1 of Test Method D1907, except that in place of
Perimeter
Table 2 in D1907 use Table 1 of Test Methods D204.
All thread finer than 250 tex 100 wraps 80 wraps
100 m 120 yd
13. Report
All threads 250 tex and coarser 10 wraps 8 wraps
10 m 12 yd
13.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampled
and the method of sampling used.
TABLE 2 Number of Wraps to be Reeled in Any One Skein in
13.2 Report the following information:
Checking Length by Skein Method
13.2.1 Mean yarn number to three significant figures,
1.5 yd Reel
Resultant Yarn Number 1-m Reel Perimeter 13.2.2 Coefficient of variation of yarn number to two
Perimeter
significant figures,
All thread finer than 50 tex 200 wraps 200 wraps
13.2.3 Reel perimeter,
200 m 300 yd
Threads of 50 tex up to 100 tex 100 wraps 100 wraps 13.2.4 Length of skein, and
100 m 150 yd
13.2.5 Number of specimens.
All threads 100 tex and coarser 50 wraps 50 wraps
50 m 75 yd
14. Precision and Bias
14.1 The precision and bias for testing yarn number are as
given in Test Method D1907.
STRENGTH AND ELONGATION
15. Scope 17.1.4 Elongation at Sewing Force—The elongation at
sewing force of a thread influences its behavior during the
15.1 Thistestmethodcanbeusedtodeterminesinglestrand
stitching cycle on a sewing machine.
breaking force and elongation of sewing threads. Single strand
17.1.5 Knot Strength—The reduction in breaking force due
testing includes loop strength, knot strength and elongation at
to the presence of a knot is considered a measure of the
sewing forces.
brittleness of the thread.
16. Summary of Test Method
18. Conditioning
16.1 Single strand yarn specimens are broken on a tensile
testing machine at a predetermined elongation rate and the
18.1 Condition the specimens as directed in Section 6 of
tensile properties are determined.
these Test Methods D204.
16.2 The test method offers the following three physical
configurations of the specimen:
19. Procedure
16.2.1 straight,
19.1 Straight Strength and Elongation:
16.2.2 looped,
19.1.1 ConditionedThreads—Select conditioned specimens
16.2.3 knotted.
and determine breaking force and elongation as directed in
Option A1 of Test Method D2256 except that a 250 63mm
17. Significance and Use
(10.0 6 0.1 in.) or 500 6 5 mm (20.0 6 0.2 in.) gage length
17.1 There are several properties of sewing thread that are
and a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type tensile testing
significant with regards to sewing and seam performance,
machine having a jaw separation rate of 300 6 10 mm/min
including: straight breaking strength, loop breaking strength,
(12.0 6 0.5 in./min) shall be used. Disregard the 20 s to break
loop elongation, elongation at sewing force, and knot strength.
requirement.
17.1.1 Straight Strength—The straight breaking strength of
19.1.2 Wet Threads—Select conditioned specimens and de-
a thread can be used to calculate the loop breaking strength
terminethebreakingforceandelongationasdirectedinOption
once a regression equation has been determined because the
A2 of Test Method D2256 except that a CRE type testing
loop properties are strongly dependent on the straight strength.
machine having a jaw separation rate of 300 6 10 mm/min
17.1.2 Loop Strength—The loop breaking strength is a
(12.0 6 0.5 in./min) shall be used. Disregard the 20 s to break
measure of the thread’s ability to contribute to seam perfor-
requirement.
mance. Loop breaking strength of a thread bears a direct
19.2 Loop Strength—Select conditioned specimens and de-
relationship to stitch breaking strength and hence to seam
termine the loop breaking force as directed in Option C1 of
breaking strength.
Test Method D2256. Disregard the 20 s to break.
17.1.3 Loop Elongation—The loop elongation of the thread
is one important factor contributing to elongation of a seam, 19.3 Knot Strength—Select conditioned specimens and de-
along with the stitch and seam type, the number of stitches per termine the knot breaking force as directed in Option B1 of
inch, and the nature of the material stitched. Test Method D2256. Disregard the 20 s to break.
D204–02 (2010)
19.4 Elongation at Sewing Forces—Test the specimens as 20.2 Report the following information:
directed for conditioned thread in 19.1.1. Read the elongation 20.2.1 Options if other than A1,
from the force elongation chart or display at the force specified 20.2.2 Testing machine type if other than CRE,
for the needle thread of the seam to be sewn. 20.2.3 Gage length tested,
19.4.1 If the force on the needle thread is not known, a 20.2.4 Number of specimens tested,
guideline for sewing elongation can be obtained by reading the 20.2.5 Theaverageofthebreakingforcesforasampleisthe
force-extension chart, or display at a force of 227 g ( ⁄2 lb) for sample breaking strength.
thread used for seams in light-weight fabrics in the 0.135 to 20.2.6 Average and coefficient of variation of percent elon-
270 g/m, or (4 to 8 oz/yd) range and at a force of 340 g ( ⁄4 lb) gation at break or at specified force as determined for single-
for thread used for seams in heavy fabrics 270 to 0.520 g/m (8 strand, knot and loop configurations, and
to 15 oz/yd). 20.2.7 Average elongation at sewing forces, loop elonga-
tion, either or both, if determined
...
This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation:D204–02 Designation:D204–02 (Reapproved 2010)
Standard Test Methods for
Sewing Threads
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D204; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. Scope
1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing threads of any fiber.
1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders.
1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not
address any other properties that may be important for the satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular end use
conditions.
1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the following properties:
Sections
Colorfastness to Drycleaning 73-83
Colorfastness to Laundering 62-72
Colorfastness to Water Migration 84-94
Diameter 43-50
Length per Thread Holder 34-42
Shrinkage, Single Strand 51-61
Dry Heat 58.1
Boiling Water 58.2
Strength and Elongation 15-21
Single Strand—Conditioned 19.1.1
Single Strand—Wet 19.1.2
Loop Strength 19.2
Knot Strength 19.3
Twist 22-27
Twist Balance 28-33
Yarn Number 7-14
NOTE 1—For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to Test Methods D1683 and D3940.
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard; the values in English units are provided as information only
and are not exact equivalents.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility
of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory
limitations prior to use.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D1422 Test Method for Twist in Single Spun Yarns by the Untwist-Retwist Method
D1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-Counting
D1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
D1777 Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials
D1907 Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Number) by the Skein Method
D2256 Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yarns by the Single-Strand Method
These test methods are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers.
Current edition approved Sept. 10, 2002. Published November 2002. Originally published as D204–24T. Last previous edition D204–97. DOI: 10.1520/D0204-02.
Current edition approved June 1, 2010. Published July 2010. Originally published as D204 – 24 T. Last previous edition approved in 2002 as D204 – 02. DOI:
10.1520/D0204-10.
For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. ForAnnualBookofASTMStandards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D204–02 (2010)
D2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing
D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
D3693 Specification for Labeled Length per Holder of Sewing Thread
D3823 Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sewing Threads
D3940 NO TITLE
D4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and Related Properties of Textiles
D4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
D6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams
2.2 AATCC Standards:
Test Method 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics
Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change
Evaluation Procedure 3, Chromatic Transference Scale
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions:
3.1.1 Refer to Terminology D4848 for definitions of the following terms used in this standard elongation; force and
loop-breaking force.
3.1.2 Refer to Terminology D4849 for definitions of the following terms used in this standard colorfastness; covered yarn,
greige thread, growth, sew, sewing force, sewing thread, tex, thread holder, ticket number, and yarn number.
3.1.3 Refer to Terminology D123 for definitions of other terms used in this standard including the following; shrinkage, stitch,
stitching, stitch type, and twist balance.
4. Significance and Use
4.1 Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread are
considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the individual test
method. These test methods are the best available and are used extensively in the trade.
4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more) comparative
test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them using competent statistical assistance. As a
minimum, use the samples for such a comparative tests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material
as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory.
The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level
chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that
material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
5. Sampling
5.1 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing, take at random the number of shipping units directed in an applicable
material specification or other agreement between the purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to use Practice D2258.
Consider shipping cases or other shipping units to be the primary sampling units.
NOTE 2—Anadequatespecificationorotheragreementbetweenthepurchaserandthesupplierrequirestakingintoaccountvariabilitybetweenshipping
units,betweenpackages, orendswithinashippingunit,andbetweenspecimensfromasinglepackagesoastoprovideasamplingplanwithameaningful
producer’s risk, consumer’s risk, acceptable quality level, and limiting quality level.
5.2 Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample for acceptance testing, take at random from each shipping unit in the lot
sample the number of packages or ends directed in an applicable material specification or other agreement to use Practice D2258.
Preferably, the same number of packages should be taken from each shipping unit in the lot sample. If differing numbers of
packages are to be taken from shipping units in the lot sample, determine at random which shipping units are to have each number
of packages drawn.
5.3 Test Specimens—From each package in the laboratory sample, take three specimens, unless otherwise specified. When
packages contain more than one parallel wound end, select one end from which to prepare the three specimens.
6. Conditioning
6.1 For routine testing, condition the samples as directed in Practice D1776.
6.2 When preconditioning is specified in a material specification or contract order precondition the prepared specimens for at
least3hinan atmosphere with relative humidity between 10 and 25 % and a temperature not exceeding 50°C (122°F) as directed
in Practice D1776.
6.2.1 After preconditioning, expose the specimens to moving air in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles, 21 6 1°C (706
2°F) and 65 6 2 % relative humidity, until the mass of the specimen(s) increases by no more than 0.1 % after2hinthe standard
atmosphere.
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.
D204–02 (2010)
YARN NUMBER
7. Scope
7.1 This test method determines the resultant yarn number of all types of sewing threads taken from a thread holder.
8. Summary of Test Method
8.1 A measured length of conditioned thread is wound on a reel and weighed. The resultant yarn number is expressed in tex.
9. Significance and Use
9.1 This test method should be used to establish standard ticket numbers for sewing threads according to Practice D3823.
10. Apparatus
10.1 Reel:
10.1.1 General—Ahand or motor-driven reel having a specified perimeter. The reel shall be fitted with a traversing mechanism
thatwillavoidbunchingthesuccessivewraps,andwithanindicatorofthelengthwound.Awarningbellthatwillringataspecified
length is recommended. It is advisable that one arm be collapsible to allow for easy removal of skeins.
10.2 Balance:
10.2.1 For the determination of mean yarn number, a balance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensitivity of 1 part
in 100.
10.2.2 For ascertaining the completion of conditioning, a balance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensitivity of
1 part in 1000 needed.
11. Conditioning
11.1 Use skeins wound with the given wraps as noted in Table 1 and follow the directions given in Section 6.
12. Procedure
12.1 Determine the resultant yarn number in tex as directed in Option 1 of Test Method D1907, except that in place of Table
2 in D1907 use Table 1 of Test Methods D204.
13. Report
13.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampled and
the method of sampling used.
13.2 Report the following information:
13.2.1 Mean yarn number to three significant figures,
13.2.2 Coefficient of variation of yarn number to two significant figures,
13.2.3 Reel perimeter,
13.2.4 Length of skein, and
13.2.5 Number of specimens.
14. Precision and Bias
14.1 The precision and bias for testing yarn number are as given in Test Method D1907.
STRENGTH AND ELONGATION
15. Scope
15.1 This test method can be used to determine single strand breaking force and elongation of sewing threads. Single strand
testing includes loop strength, knot strength and elongation at sewing forces.
TABLE 1 Number of Wraps for Determining Resultant Yarn
Number
1.5 yd Reel
Resultant Yarn Number 1-m Reel Perimeter
Perimeter
All thread finer than 250 tex 100 wraps 80 wraps
100 m 120 yd
All threads 250 tex and coarser 10 wraps 8 wraps
10 m 12 yd
D204–02 (2010)
TABLE 2 Number of Wraps to be Reeled in Any One Skein in
Checking Length by Skein Method
1.5 yd Reel
Resultant Yarn Number 1-m Reel Perimeter
Perimeter
All thread finer than 50 tex 200 wraps 200 wraps
200 m 300 yd
Threads of 50 tex up to 100 tex 100 wraps 100 wraps
100 m 150 yd
All threads 100 tex and coarser 50 wraps 50 wraps
50 m 75 yd
16. Summary of Test Method
16.1 Single strand yarn specimens are broken on a tensile testing machine at a predetermined elongation rate and the tensile
properties are determined.
16.2 The test method offers the following three physical configurations of the specimen:
16.2.1 straight,
16.2.2 looped,
16.2.3 knotted.
17. Significance and Use
17.1 There are several properties of sewing thread that are significant with regards to sewing and seam performance, including:
straight breaking strength, loop breaking strength, loop elongation, elongation at sewing force, and knot strength.
17.1.1 Straight Strength—The straight breaking strength of a thread can be used to calculate the loop breaking strength once
a regression equation has been determined because the loop properties are strongly dependent on the straight strength.
17.1.2 Loop Strength—The loop breaking strength is a measure of the thread’s ability to contribute to seam performance. Loop
breaking strength of a thread bears a direct relationship to stitch breaking strength and hence to seam breaking strength.
17.1.3 Loop Elongation—The loop elongation of the thread is one important factor contributing to elongation of a seam, along
with the stitch and seam type, the number of stitches per inch, and the nature of the material stitched.
17.1.4 ElongationatSewingForce—Theelongationatsewingforceofathreadinfluencesitsbehaviorduringthestitchingcycle
on a sewing machine.
17.1.5 Knot Strength—The reduction in breaking force due to the presence of a knot is considered a measure of the brittleness
of the thread.
18. Conditioning
18.1 Condition the specimens as directed in Section 6 of these Test Methods D204.
19. Procedure
19.1 Straight Strength and Elongation:
19.1.1 Conditioned Threads—Select conditioned specimens and determine breaking force and elongation as directed in Option
A1 of Test Method D2256 except that a 250 6 3 mm (10.0 6 0.1 in.) or 500 6 5 mm (20.0 6 0.2 in.) gage length and a
constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type tensile testing machine having a jaw separation rate of 300 6 10 mm/min (12.0 6 0.5
in./min) shall be used. Disregard the 20 s to break requirement.
19.1.2 Wet Threads—Select conditioned specimens and determine the breaking force and elongation as directed in Option A2
of Test Method D2256 except that a CRE type testing machine having a jaw separation rate of 300 6 10 mm/min (12.0 6 0.5
in./min) shall be used. Disregard the 20 s to break requirement.
19.2 Loop Strength—Select conditioned specimens and determine the loop breaking force as directed in Option C1 of Test
Method D2256. Disregard the 20 s to break.
19.3 Knot Strength—Select conditioned specimens and determine the knot breaking force as directed in Option B1 of Test
Method D2256. Disregard the 20 s to break.
19.4 Elongation at Sewing Forces—Test the specimens as directed for conditioned thread in 19.1.1. Read the elongation from
the force elongation chart or display at the force specified for the needle thread of the seam to be sewn.
19.4.1 If the force on the needle thread is not known, a guideline for sewing elongation can be obtained by reading the
force-extension chart, or display at a force of 227 g ( ⁄2 lb) for thread used for seams in light-weight fabrics in the 0.135 to 270
g/m, or (4 to 8 oz/yd) range and at a force of 340 g ( ⁄4 lb) for thread used for seams in heavy fabrics 270 to 0.520 g/m (8 to 15
oz/yd).
20. Report
20.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or p
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