ASTM D1336-07(2015)
(Test Method)Standard Test Method for Distortion of Yarn in Woven Fabrics
Standard Test Method for Distortion of Yarn in Woven Fabrics
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 This test method is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments because current estimates of between-laboratory precision are acceptable and the method has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing.
5.2 In cases of dispute, the statistical bias, if any, between the laboratory of the purchaser and the laboratory of the seller should be determined, with each comparison being based on testing randomized specimens from one sample of fabric.
5.3 This test method is used as an indication of the propensity of yarns to shift or distort in a fabric. Such distortions are objectionable due to the resulting changes in appearance. These appearance changes are sometimes referred to as “finger marks” or “shift marks.”
5.4 It is recommended that fabrics be tested in their original condition and also after laundering or drycleaning, or both, depending upon the intended use of the material.
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the measurement of yarn distortion of one set of yarns over the other in woven cloth following the application of surface friction. This test method especially is applicable to open-weave fabrics, such as nettings, marquisettes, gauzes, chiffons, and heavier fabrics made from slippery surface yarns.
Note 1: For the determination of yarn slippage in woven fabrics, refer to Test Method D434.
1.2 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the standard. The inch-pound units given in parentheses are provided for information only.
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
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Designation: D1336 − 07 (Reapproved 2015)
Standard Test Method for
Distortion of Yarn in Woven Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1336; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision.Anumber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 2.2 Federal Standard:
Federal Test Method Standard191–Method5410 Slippage
1.1 This test method covers the measurement of yarn
Resistance of Yarns in Cloth, Yarn Distortion Method
distortion of one set of yarns over the other in woven cloth
following the application of surface friction. This test method
3. Terminology
especiallyisapplicabletoopen-weavefabrics,suchasnettings,
3.1 For all terminology relating to D13.59, Fabric Test
marquisettes, gauzes, chiffons, and heavier fabrics made from
Methods, General, refer to Terminology D4850.
slippery surface yarns.
3.1.1 Thefollowingtermsarerelevanttothisstandard:yarn
distortion.
NOTE1—Forthedeterminationofyarnslippageinwovenfabrics,refer
to Test Method D434.
3.2 For all other terminology related to textiles, refer to
Terminology D123.
1.2 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the
standard. The inch-pound units given in parentheses are
4. Summary of Test Method
provided for information only.
4.1 A specimen is subjected to a specified shearing force
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the
acting in the plane of the fabric.The degree to which the force
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
causes yarns to shift distorting the original symmetry of the
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
weave is taken as a measure of ease of yarn distortion in the
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
fabric. The degree of distortion is reported in terms of the
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
widest opening, measured in hundredths of an inch.
2. Referenced Documents
5. Significance and Use
2.1 ASTM Standards:
5.1 This test method is considered satisfactory for accep-
D123Terminology Relating to Textiles tance testing of commercial shipments because current esti-
D434Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in
mates of between-laboratory precision are acceptable and the
Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn method has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance
testing.
2003)
D1776Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
5.2 In cases of dispute, the statistical bias, if any, between
D4850Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test
the laboratory of the purchaser and the laboratory of the seller
Methods
should be determined, with each comparison being based on
testing randomized specimens from one sample of fabric.
5.3 This test method is used as an indication of the propen-
sity of yarns to shift or distort in a fabric. Such distortions are
objectionable due to the resulting changes in appearance.
Theseappearancechangesaresometimesreferredtoas“finger
ThistestmethodisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,
marks” or “shift marks.”
General.
5.4 Itisrecommendedthatfabricsbetestedintheiroriginal
Current edition approved July 1, 2015. Published September 2015. Originally
approved in 1954. Last previous edition approved in 2011 as D1337–07(2011).
condition and also after laundering or drycleaning, or both,
DOI: 10.1520/D1336-07R15.
depending upon the intended use of the material.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
the ASTM website. Available from General ServicesAdministrations, Specification and Consumer
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on Information and Distribution Section (WFSIS), Washington, Navy Yard, Building
www.astm.org. 197, Washington, DC 20407.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D1336 − 07 (2015)
6. Apparatus 6.1.2 Mounting Frame or Bracket, designed to hold the
5 specimen under uniform tension. The frame shall consist of a
6.1 Fabric Shift Tester , as shown in Fig. 1, including:
rectangle whose inside dimensions are 102 by 153 mm (4 by 6
6.1.1 Cylindrical Rubber Friction Drums, consisting of a
in.). The 153-mm (4-in.) sides shall be rectangular screw
pairofrubberdrumsmountedoneabovetheotheronthetester
clamps 10 mm (0.375 in.) wide, with the gripping surfaces
in such a way that the specimen may be inserted between their
suitably grooved, taped, or otherwise designed or modified to
two circular contacting surfaces. Each drum shall be 19 mm
minimize slipping of the specimen in the clamps during the
(0.75 in.) in diameter and have a Shore Durometer hardness of
test. The frame, when placed in the test position on the rails,
55 to 60 (A scale). The lower drum shall be 51 mm (2 in.) in
shall be free to slide as a carriage in a plane perpendicular to
length,fastenedtotheplatformoftheapparatus.Facilitiesshall
the plane of the areas of the friction drums.
be provided for rotation of the drums in the mounting frame
6.1.3 Hand-Crank Arrangement, for 25 mm (1 in.) recipro-
betweentests.Theupperdrumshallbe25mm(1in.)inlength,
cating motion of the carriage. This device, or reciprocating
have the same provisions for rotation as the lower one, and
arm, shall have a cam attachment that lifts the upper drum in
shallbesomountedthatatotalforceof4.5to18N(1to4lbf)
the return motion.
canbeexerteduponthespecimenbymeansofaleverarmand
6.1.4 Rails,twosets,fixedandspacedontheplatformofthe
movable weight.
tester, for supporting the carriage.
NOTE 2—The term “weight” is used temporarily in this test method
6.2 Jig, for mounting the specimen in the frame under
because of established trade usage.The word weight is used to mean both
tension of 22.2 6 0.22 N (5 6 0.05 lbf). A suitable device
“force” and “mass,” and care must be taken to determine which is meant
in each case (SI unit for force=newton and for mass=kilogram).
consists of a clamp and weight (Fig. 1) having a total mass of
2.3 kg (5 lb).
6.3 Steel Scale, graduated in a 0.2 mm (0.01 in.).
6.4 Dividers.
TheUnitedStatesTestingCompany,Inc.,1415ParkAve.,Hoboken,NJ07030.
The apparatus is described in Federal Test Method Standard191-Method5410.
FIG. 1 Fabric Shift Tester
D1336 − 07 (2015)
6.5 Magnifying Device, 5× power. 10. Procedure
10.1 Verifyandestablishtheweightlocationonthemoment
7. Sampling, Selection and Number of Specimens
arm of the tester using a calibrated spring scale, or equivalent,
and adjust the weight position as needed to provide the
7.1 Takealotsampleandalaboratorysampleasdirectedin
required force.
the applicable material specification or as agreed upon by the
purchaser and the supplier. In the absence of such a specifica-
NOTE4—Someinstrumentsmaynotprovidethedesignatedforceatthe
tionoragreement,takeonerepresentativesamplefromeachlot manufacturer’s marked location.
of rolls, pieces, or consumer items.
10.2 Test the specimens in the standard atmosphere for
testing textiles.
NOTE 3—A realistic specification or other agreement between the
purchaser and the supplier requires taking into account the variability
10.3 Place the specimen vertically in the frame with the
between primary sampling units and within primary sampling units so as
warp or filling yarns parallel to the sides of the frame. Clamp
to provide a sampling plan, which has a meaningful producer’s risk,
one 102-mm (4-in.) end of the specimen to one end of the
consumer’s risk, acceptable quality level, and limiting quality level.Alot
frame. Apply the 2.3-kg (5-lb) weight across the opposite
sample normally consists of a very small fraction of the total primary
102-mm (4-in.) width of the specimen and fasten the second
sampling units.
clamp securely. Remove the weight and clamp.
7.2 Takefivespecimensfromeachlaboratorysamplingunit
10.4 Raisetheupperfrictiondrumonitsweightedleverand
(roll,piece,orconsumeritem)withthelongdimensionparallel
place the frame between the drums, positioning it at the
totheyarnsthathavethegreaterresistancetoshiftingandtake
extreme end of its travel on the rails.
them from undisturbed portions of the fabric.
10.5 Adjusttheweightoftheupperfrictiondrumtoprovide
7.3 Whenever possible, take specimens such that no two
the force specified in the materi
...
This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation: D1336 − 07 (Reapproved 2011) D1336 − 07 (Reapproved 2015)
Standard Test Method for
Distortion of Yarn in Woven Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1336; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This test method covers the measurement of yarn distortion of one set of yarns over the other in woven cloth following the
application of surface friction. This test method especially is applicable to open-weave fabrics, such as nettings, marquisettes,
gauzes, chiffons, and heavier fabrics made from slippery surface yarns.
NOTE 1—For the determination of yarn slippage in woven fabrics, refer to Test Method D434.
1.2 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the standard. The inch-pound units given in parentheses are provided for
information only.
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility
of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory
limitations prior to use.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn 2003)
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
D4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test Methods
2.2 Federal Standard:
Federal Test Method Standard 191–Method 5410 Slippage Resistance of Yarns in Cloth, Yarn Distortion Method
3. Terminology
3.1 For all terminology relating to D13.59, Fabric Test Methods, General, refer to Terminology D4850.
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard: yarn distortion.
3.2 For all other terminology related to textiles, refer to Terminology D123.
4. Summary of Test Method
4.1 A specimen is subjected to a specified shearing force acting in the plane of the fabric. The degree to which the force causes
yarns to shift distorting the original symmetry of the weave is taken as a measure of ease of yarn distortion in the fabric. The degree
of distortion is reported in terms of the widest opening, measured in hundredths of an inch.
5. Significance and Use
5.1 This test method is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments because current estimates of
between-laboratory precision are acceptable and the method has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing.
5.2 In cases of dispute, the statistical bias, if any, between the laboratory of the purchaser and the laboratory of the seller should
be determined, with each comparison being based on testing randomized specimens from one sample of fabric.
This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, General.
Current edition approved May 1, 2011July 1, 2015. Published June 2011September 2015. Originally approved in 1954. Last previous edition approved in 20072011 as
D1337 – 07.D1337 – 07(2011). DOI: 10.1520/D1336-07R11.10.1520/D1336-07R15.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.
Available from General Services Administrations, Specification and Consumer Information and Distribution Section (WFSIS), Washington, Navy Yard, Building 197,
Washington, DC 20407.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D1336 − 07 (2015)
5.3 This test method is used as an indication of the propensity of yarns to shift or distort in a fabric. Such distortions are
objectionable due to the resulting changes in appearance. These appearance changes are sometimes referred to as “finger marks”
or “shift marks.”
5.4 It is recommended that fabrics be tested in their original condition and also after laundering or drycleaning, or both,
depending upon the intended use of the material.
6. Apparatus
6.1 Fabric Shift Tester , as shown in Fig. 1, including:
6.1.1 Cylindrical Rubber Friction Drums, consisting of a pair of rubber drums mounted one above the other on the tester in such
a way that the specimen may be inserted between their two circular contacting surfaces. Each drum shall be 19 mm (0.75 in.) in
diameter and have a Shore Durometer hardness of 55 to 60 (A scale). The lower drum shall be 51 mm (2 in.) in length, fastened
to the platform of the apparatus. Facilities shall be provided for rotation of the drums in the mounting frame between tests. The
upper drum shall be 25 mm (1 in.) in length, have the same provisions for rotation as the lower one, and shall be so mounted that
a total force of 4.5 to 18 N (1 to 4 lbf) can be exerted upon the specimen by means of a lever arm and movable weight.
NOTE 2—The term “weight” is used temporarily in this test method because of established trade usage. The word weight is used to mean both “force”
and “mass,” and care must be taken to determine which is meant in each case (SI unit for force = newton and for mass = kilogram).
6.1.2 Mounting Frame or Bracket, designed to hold the specimen under uniform tension. The frame shall consist of a rectangle
whose inside dimensions are 102 by 153 mm (4 by 6 in.). The 153-mm (4-in.) sides shall be rectangular screw clamps 10 mm
(0.375 in.) wide, with the gripping surfaces suitably grooved, taped, or otherwise designed or modified to minimize slipping of the
specimen in the clamps during the test. The frame, when placed in the test position on the rails, shall be free to slide as a carriage
in a plane perpendicular to the plane of the areas of the friction drums.
The United States Testing Company, Inc., 1415 Park Ave., Hoboken, NJ 07030. The apparatus is described in Federal Test Method Standard 191-Method 5410.
FIG. 1 Fabric Shift Tester
D1336 − 07 (2015)
6.1.3 Hand-Crank Arrangement, for 25 mm (1 in.) reciprocating motion of the carriage. This device, or reciprocating arm, shall
have a cam attachment that lifts the upper drum in the return motion.
6.1.4 Rails, two sets, fixed and spaced on the platform of the tester, for supporting the carriage.
6.2 Jig, for mounting the specimen in the frame under tension of 22.2 6 0.22 N (5 6 0.05 lbf). A suitable device consists of
a clamp and weight (Fig. 1) having a total mass of 2.3 kg (5 lb).
6.3 Steel Scale, graduated in a 0.2 mm (0.01 in.).
6.4 Dividers.
6.5 Magnifying Device, 5× power.
7. Sampling, Selection and Number of Specimens
7.1 Take a lot sample and a laboratory sample as directed in the applicable material specification or as agreed upon by the
purchaser and the supplier. In the absence of such a specification or agreement, take one representative sample from each lot of
rolls, pieces, or consumer items.
NOTE 3—A realistic specification or other agreement between the purchaser and the supplier requires taking into account the variability between
primary sampling units and within primary sampling units so as to provide a sampling plan, which has a meaningful producer’s risk, consumer’s risk,
acceptable quality level, and limiting quality level. A lot sample normally consists of a very small fraction of the total primary sampling units.
7.2 Take five specimens from each laboratory sampling unit (roll, piece, or consumer item) with the long dimension parallel to
the yarns that have the greater resistance to shifting and take them from undisturbed portions of the fabric.
7.3 Whenever possible, take specimens such that no two specimens are taken from the same warp yarns or filling bobbins and
at such places that no specimen is nearer to the selvage than one-tenth the width of the fabric.
7.4 Designate as “warp specimens” those specimens cut with their long dimension parallel with the filling, and as “filling
specimens” those cut with their long dimension parallel with the warp.
7.5 When testing after laundering or drycleaning, prepare a separate set of specimens from a swatch of fabric from the
laboratory sample.
7.5.1 Because of the many end-uses and means of refurbishing, the procedure used for laundering or drycleaning must be agreed
upon by the purchaser and the supplier.
8. Conditioning
8.1 Condition samples for testing as directed in Practice D1776, except th
...
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