EN 568:2015
(Main)Mountaineering equipment - Ice anchors - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Ice anchors - Safety requirements and test methods
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice anchors, i.e. ice screws and ice pitons for use in mountaineering including climbing.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Verankerungsmittel im Eis - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Verankerungsmittel im Eis fest, d. h. für Eisschrauben und Eishaken, die beim Bergsteigen einschließlich Klettern verwendet werden.
Équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Broches à glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d’essai
La présente Norme européenne spécifie les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d’essai qui s’appliquent aux broches à glace, c’est-à-dire aux broches à glace à visser et aux broches à glace à frapper, utilisées en alpinisme et en escalade.
Gorniška oprema - Ledni vijaki - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Ta evropski standard določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za ledne vijake, tj. ledne vijake in ledne kline, za uporabo v gorništvu, vključno s plezanjem.
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Standards Content (Sample)
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.Gorniška oprema - Ledni vijaki - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metodeBergsteigerausrüstung - Verankerungsmittel im Eis - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und PrüfverfahrenEquipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Broches à glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essaiMountaineering equipment - Ice anchors - Safety requirements and test methods97.220.40Oprema za športe na prostem in vodne športeOutdoor and water sports equipmentICS:Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z:EN 568:2015SIST EN 568:2016en,fr,de01-januar-2016SIST EN 568:2016SLOVENSKI
STANDARDSIST EN 568:20081DGRPHãþD
EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPÉENNE EUROPÄISCHE NORM
EN 568
November
t r s w ICS
{ yä t t rä v r Supersedes EN
w x zã t r r yEnglish Version
Mountaineering equipment æ Ice anchors æ Safety requirements and test methods Équipement d 5alpinisme et d 5escalade æ Broches à glace æ Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d 5essai
Bergsteigerausrüstung æ Verankerungsmittel im Eis æ Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on
t x September
t r s wä
egulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alterationä Upætoædate lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CENæCENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN memberä
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CENæCENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versionsä
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austriaá Belgiumá Bulgariaá Croatiaá Cyprusá Czech Republicá Denmarká Estoniaá Finlandá Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedoniaá Franceá Germanyá Greeceá Hungaryá Icelandá Irelandá Italyá Latviaá Lithuaniaá Luxembourgá Maltaá Netherlandsá Norwayá Polandá Portugalá Romaniaá Slovakiaá Sloveniaá Spainá Swedená Switzerlandá Turkey andUnited Kingdomä
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre:
Avenue Marnix 17,
B-1000 Brussels
t r s w CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Membersä Refä Noä EN
w x zã t r s w ESIST EN 568:2016
Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13 Annex ZA (informative)
Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC. 14 Bibliography . 15
Figure 1 — Placement length, l 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Design 4.1.1 Ice screws shall consist of a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical hollow body with thread. At the screw head, there is an eye into which a connector can be clipped. Ice pitons shall consist of a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical hollow body and have an eye into which a connector can be clipped. SIST EN 568:2016
a) b) Figure 2 — Attachment point eye dimensions 4.1.3 When tested according to 5.1, the eye shall have an internal diameter of at least 15 mm. See b) in Figure 2. 4.2 Resistance to hammering of ice pitons When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.1, ice pitons shall not show any deformation likely to affect safety, e.g. cracks or separation of components. The impact area of the head shall remain sufficiently intact so as to allow further hammering. NOTE Deformation due to hammering, as occurs with chisels, is not considered detrimental. If the ice anchor has a sling for attachment, which is removable without tools, the sling shall conform to EN 566. 4.3 Screwability of the ice screws When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.2 after a maximum of 10 full rotations of the ice screw the penetration of the following rotation shall be equal to the pitch of the thread of the ice screw. 4.4 Holding strength 4.4.1 Holding strength in the radial direction When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.3.1, anchors shall withstand a force of at least 10 kN in the radial direction, without being pulled out of the ice or breaking. Permanent deformation during the test is permitted. 4.4.2 Holding strength in the axial direction When tested in the axial direction in accordance with 5.2.4.3.2, ice anchors shall withstand a force of at least 5 kN without the hanger breaking or becoming detached. All test samples shall meet the requirement. SIST EN 568:2016
350 mm minimum width
220 mm minimum depth
330 mm internal dimensions minimum wall thickness
6 mm
The base of the ice container shall be rigid so that it does not influence the test results. 5.2.2.3 A vertically guided falling body of mass (10 ± 0,02) kg with a flat impact area of 30 mm (± 10) mm diameter of hardness, HV (40) = (800 ± 10) %. 5.2.2.4 A device as shown in Figure 3 to hold a shaft at right angles to the ice surface, the lower end of the shaft having a clamping mechanism for an ice screw, which holds the screw concentrically. A lever is fitted to the top of the shaft for screwing in the ice screw. SIST EN 568:2016
Key 1 rotary shaft 2 guide 3 radial clamp 4 ice Figure 3 — Device for testing the screwability of ice screws 5.2.3 Preparation of the test block 5.2.3.1 Type 1: Fill the ice container with potable water and store it at (– 10 ± 1) °C for at least 20 h. Smooth off any uneven surface of the ice. 5.2.3.2 Type 2: Fill the ice container alternately 50 mm deep with layers of ice grains with a maximum diameter of 10 mm and 250 ml of cold potable water and store it at (– 8 ± 2) °C, for at least 20 h. When the ice container is full, load the ice for (5 ± 0,5) min with a steel plate of mass (100 ± 2) kg, the clearance between the steel plate and the side walls of the container not exceeding 10 mm. The ice block shall be used immediately for testing according to 5.2.4.3.1. The block of ice type 2 can be alternatively replaced by a block of cellular concrete with following characteristics: — Material: cellular concrete — Density: 500 kg/m3 (± 50) kg/m3 — Compressive strength: 4 MPa ± 0,25 MPa — Minimum dimensions: Width: 200 mm, Height: 400 mm, Depth: 250 mm SIST EN 568:2016
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