SIST EN 893:2011
(Main)Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons preventing the user from slipping when used in mountaineering on snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Steigeisen fest, die
beim Bergsteigen in Firn und Eis einschließlich Klettern in gemischtem Gelände verwendet werden.
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
La présente norme européenne fixe les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d'essai relatives aux crampons utilisés dans la pratique de l'alpinisme et de l'escalade sur neige et sur glace, ainsi qu'en terrain mixte, afin d’empêcher l’utilisateur de glisser.
Gorniška oprema - Dereze - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Ta evropski standard določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za dereze, ki uporabniku preprečujejo zdrs, kadar se uporabljajo pri gorništvu po snegu in ledu, vključno s plezanjem po mešanem terenu.
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
SLOVENSKI STANDARD
SIST EN 893:2011
01-januar-2011
1DGRPHãþD
SIST EN 893:2000
Gorniška oprema - Dereze - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes
d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 893:2010
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
SIST EN 893:2011 en,fr,de
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.
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SIST EN 893:2011
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SIST EN 893:2011
EUROPEAN STANDARD
EN 893
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
November 2010
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 893:1999
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements
and test methods
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen - Sicherheitstechnische
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 9 October 2010.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European
Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national
standards may be obtained on application to the CEN Management Centre or to any CEN member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation
under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN Management Centre has the same status as the
official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland,
Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels
© 2010 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 893:2010: E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
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SIST EN 893:2011
EN 893:2010 (E)
Contents Page
Foreword .3
Introduction .4
1 Scope .5
2 Normative references .5
3 Terms and definitions .5
4 Safety requirements .8
4.1 Shape and design .8
4.2 Prevention against slippage .8
4.3 Strength .8
4.3.1 Hardness .8
4.3.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes .8
4.3.3 Transverse strength of bails of clip-on bindings .9
4.3.4 Strength of binding parts other than bails .9
4.3.5 Strength of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding .9
4.3.6 Longitudinal strength of the frame .9
5 Test methods .9
5.1 Test samples .9
5.2 Test conditions .9
5.3 Apparatus . 10
5.4 Test procedure . 11
5.4.1 Shape, design and hardness . 11
5.4.2 Prevention against slippage . 11
5.4.3 Bending strength test on spikes . 12
5.4.4 Transverse strength test on bails . 13
5.4.5 Strength test of binding parts other than bails . 14
5.4.6 Strength test of binding closures . 16
5.4.7 Strength test of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding . 16
5.4.8 Longitudinal strength test of the frame . 16
6 Marking . 18
7 Information supplied by the manufacturer . 18
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 19
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential
Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 20
2
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SIST EN 893:2011
EN 893:2010 (E)
Foreword
This document (EN 893:2010) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground
and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical
text or by endorsement, at the latest by May 2011, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the
latest by May 2011.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent
rights. CEN [and/or CENELEC] shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document supersedes EN 893:1999.
This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the
European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.
For relationship with EU Directive 89/686/EEC, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this
document.
According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following
countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech
Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia,
Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain,
Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom.
3
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SIST EN 893:2011
EN 893:2010 (E)
Introduction
The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard S (Union Internationale des
Associations d'Alpinisme / International mountaineering and climbing federation), which has been developed
with international participation.
This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
4
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SIST EN 893:2011
EN 893:2010 (E)
1 Scope
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons preventing the user
from slipping when used in mountaineering on snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated
references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced
document (including any amendments) applies.
EN 565, Mountaineering equipment — Tape — Safety requirements and test methods
EN ISO 6508-1, Metallic materials — Rockwell hardness test — Part 1: Test method (scales A, B, C, D, E, F,
G, H, K, N, T) (ISO 6508-1:2005)
ISO 9523, Touring ski-boots for adults — Interface with touring ski-binding — Requirements and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply (see also Figure 1).
3.1
crampon
device fitted with spikes, which is intended to cover the sole of a boot, from toe to heel and from one side to
the other, so as to provide grip on snow, ice and mixed terrain and which has a system of attachment to the
boot
3.2
frame
part or parts of the crampon which bears the spikes
3.3
front spike
forward pointing spike intended for use when climbing steep terrain
3.4
downward spike
spike usually, but not necessarily, pointing vertically downward
3.5
binding
system of attachment to the boot
3.6
clip-on binding
particular binding which uses a lever mechanism for rapid attachment of a crampon to a boot
3.7
bail
stirrup-shaped part or parts of a binding used to connect the crampon to the toe and/or to the heel of the boot
5
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SIST EN 893:2011
EN 893:2010 (E)
3.8
attachment rings or eyes
rings or eyes which are threaded by a part of the binding when fitted in accordance with the manufacturer's
instruction
3.9
adjustment system
system for adjusting the crampon to fit the boot
3.10
retaining system
system which prevents the climber from losing the crampon if the binding fails
3.11
spur
other spike than front spikes and downward spikes
6
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SIST EN 893:2011
EN 893:2010 (E)
NOTE The numbers in this figure refer to the corresponding terms defined in Clause 3.
Figure 1 — Parts of a crampon
7
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SIST EN 893:2011
EN 893:2010 (E)
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Shape and design
4.1.1 Each crampon shall have a system of attachment to the boot.
4.1.2 Each crampon shall have at least eight spikes, not including spurs.
4.1.3 Each crampon shall have at least six downward spikes, which:
a) shall be at least 20 mm long (see Figure 2) and not necessarily all the same length;
b) when walking normally on flat and smooth ice, shall contact the surface of the ice, but not necessarily at
the same time; and
c) shall be shaped such that when loaded with one person's weight whilst walking on smooth ice, the
downward spikes will "bite" into the ice such as to prevent slipping.
Dimensions in millimetres
Figure 2 — Length of spikes
4.1.4 All edges with which the user's hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs.
4.1.5 If the crampon has a clip-on binding it shall be fitted with a retaining system.
4.2 Prevention against slippage
When tested according to 5.4.2, the crampons shall not slip on the ice more than 10 mm in each direction.
4.3 Strength
4.3.1 Hardness
Each part of the crampon, which contains a spike or spikes, shall have a hardness of at least 70 HRB.
Testing according to 5.4.1.3.
4.3.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes
When tested according to 5.4.3, the maximum deformation under load and the permanent deformation after
removing the load, measured at the point of application, shall not be more than shown in Table 1. The
breaking strength shall be at least as shown in Table 1.
Spurs shall be tested with a load applied in each intended direction.
8
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SIST EN 893:2011
EN 893:2010 (E)
Table 1 — Strength of spikes
Types of spikes Applied force Deformation Permanent Minimum
under load deformati
...
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.Gorniška oprema - Dereze - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metodeBergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und PrüfverfahrenEquipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essaiMountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test
methods97.220.40Oprema za športe na prostem in vodne športeOutdoor and water sports equipmentICS:Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z:FprEN 893kSIST FprEN 893:2010en,fr,de01-junij-2010kSIST FprEN 893:2010SLOVENSKI
STANDARD
kSIST FprEN 893:2010
EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPÉENNE EUROPÄISCHE NORM
FINAL DRAFT
FprEN 893
April 2010 ICS 97.220.40 Will supersede EN 893:1999English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test
methods
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren This draft European Standard is submitted to CEN members for unique acceptance procedure. It has been drawn up by the Technical Committee CEN/TC 136.
If this draft becomes a European Standard, CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration.
This draft European Standard was established by CEN in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN Management Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.
Warning : This document is not a European Standard. It is distributed for review and comments. It is subject to change without notice and shall not be referred to as a European Standard.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
Management Centre:
Avenue Marnix 17,
B-1000 Brussels © 2010 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. FprEN 893:2010: EkSIST FprEN 893:2010
FprEN 893:2010 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword .3Introduction .41 Scope .52 Normative references .53 Terms and definitions .54 Safety requirements .74.1 Shape and design .74.2 Prevention against slippage .74.3 Strength .74.3.1 Hardness .74.3.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes .74.3.3 Transverse strength of bails of clip-on bindings .84.3.4 Strength of binding parts other than bails .84.3.5 Strength of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding .84.3.6 Longitudinal strength of the frame .85 Test methods .85.1 Test samples .85.2 Test conditions .85.3 Apparatus .95.3.1 Load bar for bending test on downward spikes and front spikes .95.4 Test procedure . 105.4.1 Shape, design and hardness . 105.4.2 Prevention against slippage . 105.4.3 Bending strength test on spikes . 115.4.4 Transverse strength test on bails . 125.4.5 Strength test of binding parts other than bails . 135.4.6 Strength test of binding closures . 135.4.7 Strength test of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding . 135.4.8 Longitudinal strength test of the frame . 146 Marking . 157 Information supplied by the manufacturer . 15Annex A (informative)
Standards on mountaineering equipment . 16Annex ZA (informative)
Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements
of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 17 kSIST FprEN 893:2010
FprEN 893:2010 (E) 3 Foreword This document (FprEN 893:2010) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This document is currently submitted to the Unique Acceptance Procedure. This document will supersede EN 893:1999. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC. For relationship with EU Directive, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document. kSIST FprEN 893:2010
FprEN 893:2010 (E) 4 Introduction The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard S (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme / International mountaineering and climbing federation), which has been developed with international participation. This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A. kSIST FprEN 893:2010
FprEN 893:2010 (E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons preventing the user from slipping when used in mountaineering on snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain. 2 Normative references The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 565, Mountaineering equipment — Tape — Safety requirements and test methods EN ISO 6508-1, Metallic materials — Rockwell hardness test — Part 1: Test method (scales A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, K, N, T) (ISO 6508-1:2005) ISO 9523, Touring ski-boots for adults — Interface with touring ski-binding — Requirements and test methods 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply (see also Figure 1). 3.1 crampon device fitted with spikes, which is intended to cover the sole of a boot, from toe to heel and from one side to the other, so as to provide grip on snow, ice and mixed terrain and which has a system of attachment to the boot 3.2 frame part or parts of the crampon which bears the spikes 3.3 front spike forward pointing spike intended for use when climbing steep terrain 3.4 downward spike spike usually, but not necessarily, pointing vertically downward 3.5 binding system of attachment to the boot 3.6 clip-on binding particular binding which uses a lever mechanism for rapid attachment of a crampon to a boot 3.7 bail stirrup-shaped part or parts of a binding used to connect the crampon to the toe and/or to the heel of the boot kSIST FprEN 893:2010
FprEN 893:2010 (E) 6 3.8 attachment rings or eyes rings or eyes which are threaded by a part of the binding when fitted in accordance with the manufacturers instruction 3.9 adjustment system system for adjusting the crampon to fit the boot 3.10 retaining system system which prevents the climber from losing the crampon if the binding fails 3.11 spur any other spike than front spikes and downward spikes
NOTE The numbers in this figure refer to the corresponding terms defined in Clause 3.
Figure 1 — Parts of a crampon kSIST FprEN 893:2010
FprEN 893:2010 (E) 7 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Shape and design 4.1.1 Each crampon shall have a system of attachment to the boot. 4.1.2 Each crampon shall have at least 8 spikes, not including spurs. 4.1.3 Each crampon shall have at least 6 downward spikes, which a) shall be at least 20 mm long (see Figure 2) and not necessarily all the same length; b) when walking normally on flat and smooth ice, shall contact the surface of the ice, but not necessarily at the same time; and
c) shall be shaped such that when loaded with one persons weight whilst walking on smooth ice, the downward spikes will "bite" into the ice such as to prevent slipping. Dimensions in millimetres
Figure 2 — Length of spikes 4.1.4 All edges with which the users' hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs. 4.1.5 If the crampon has a clip-on binding it shall be fitted with a retaining system. 4.2 Prevention against slippage When tested according to 5.4.2, the crampons shall not slip on the ice more than 10 mm in each direction. 4.3 Strength 4.3.1 Hardness Each part of the crampon, which contains a spike or spikes, shall have a hardness of at least 70 HRB. Testing according to 5.4.1.3. 4.3.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes When tested according to 5.4.3, the maximum deformation under load and the permanent deformation after removing the load, measured at the point of application, shall not be more than shown in Table 1. The breaking strength shall be at least as shown in Table 1. Spurs shall be tested with a load applied in each intended direction. kSIST FprEN 893:2010
FprEN 893:2010 (E) 8 Table 1 — Strength of spikes Types of spikes Applied force
N Deformation under load mm Permanent deformation mm Minimum breaking strength N Downward spikes
900 ± 20 15 7 1 200 F
...
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