SIST EN 568:2008
(Main)Mountaineering equipment — Ice anchors — Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment — Ice anchors — Safety requirements and test methods
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice anchors, i.e. ice screws and ice pitons for use in mountaineering including climbing.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Verankerungsmittel im Eis - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren fest für Verankerungs- mittel im Eis, d. h. Eisschrauben und Eishaken, die beim Bergsteigen, einschließlich Klettern, verwendet werden.
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Broches a glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
Gorniška oprema - Ledni vijaki - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
SLOVENSKI STANDARD
SIST EN 568:2008
01-marec-2008
1DGRPHãþD
SIST EN 568:1998
Gorniška oprema - Ledni vijaki - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment — Ice anchors — Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Verankerungsmittel im Eis - Sicherheitstechnische
Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Broches a glace - Exigences de sécurité et
méthodes d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 568:2007
ICS:
97.220.40
SIST EN 568:2008 en
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.
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EUROPEAN STANDARD
EN 568
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
July 2007
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 568:1997
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Ice anchors - Safety requirements
and test methods
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Broches à glace - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Verankerungsmittel im Eis -
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 9 June 2007.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European
Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national
standards may be obtained on application to the CEN Management Centre or to any CEN member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation
under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN Management Centre has the same status as the
official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland,
France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal,
Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
Management Centre: rue de Stassart, 36 B-1050 Brussels
© 2007 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 568:2007: E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
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EN 568:2007 (E)
Contents Page
Foreword.3
Introduction .4
1 Scope .5
2 Terms and definitions .5
3 Safety requirements .5
3.1 Design .5
3.2 Resistance to hammering of ice pitons.6
3.3 Screwability of the ice screws.6
3.4 Resistance to fracture and holding force.6
4 Test methods.7
4.1 Examination of design .7
4.2 Determination of resistance of hammering of ice pitons, screwability of the ice screws
and resistance to fracture and holding force of ice anchors.7
5 Marking .11
6 Information supplied by the manufacturer .11
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment.12
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential
Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.13
2
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EN 568:2007 (E)
Foreword
This European Standard (EN 568:2007) has been prepared by the Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,
playground and other recreational equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical
text or by endorsement, at the latest by January 2008, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at
the latest by January 2008.
This document supersedes EN 568:1997.
This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission
and the European Free Trade Association to support Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.
For relationship with EU Directives, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this European
Standard.
According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following
countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Repub-
lic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania,
Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden,
Switzerland and United Kingdom.
3
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EN 568:2007 (E)
Introduction
The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard Q (Union Internationale des Associa-
tions d'Alpinisme), which has been developed with international participation.
This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
4
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EN 568:2007 (E)
1 Scope
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice anchors, i.e. ice screws and ice
pitons for use in mountaineering including climbing.
2 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this European Standard, the following terms and definitions apply.
2.1
ice anchor
general term for ice screws and ice pitons
2.2
ice screw
anchor which is screwed into the ice and is screwed out again after use
2.3
ice piton
anchor which is hammered into the ice and is removed again after use
2.4
placement length
l
length of the anchor from its end to the part of the eye/connector hole intended to be in contact with the ice
after it has been screwed or hammered in (see Figure 1)
Figure 1 — Placement length, l
2.5
initial torque
maximum torque necessary for achieving the first revolution of the ice screw
3 Safety requirements
3.1 Design
3.1.1 Ice screws shall consist of a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical hollow body with thread. At the screw head,
there is an eye into which a connector can be clipped.
Ice pitons shall consist of a cylindrical or semi-cylindrical hollow body and have an eye into which a connector
can be clipped.
5
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EN 568:2007 (E)
3.1.2 The head and the eye shall be free from burr and sharp edges.
The internal edges of the eye shall be rounded with a radius larger than 0,2 mm or larger than 0,2 mm × 45°.
See a) in Figure 2.
Dimensions in millimetres
a) Bevelled edges b) Rounded edges
Figure 2 — Attachment point eye dimensions
3.1.3 When tested according to 4.1, the eye shall have an internal diameter of at least 15 mm. See b) in
Figure 2.
3.2 Resistance to hammering of ice pitons
When tested in accordance with 4.2.4.1, ice pitons shall not show any deformation likely to affect safety e.g.
cracks, or separation of components. The impact area of the head shall remain sufficiently intact so as to al-
low further hammering.
NOTE Mushrooming, as occurs with chisels, is not considered detrimental.
3.3 Screwability of the ice screws
When tested in accordance with 4.2.4.2 after a maximum of 10 full rotations of the ice screw the penetration of
the following rotation shall be equal to the pitch of the thread of the ice screw.
3.4 Resistance to fracture and holding force
3.4.1 When tested in accordance with 4.2.4.3.1, anchors shall withstand a force of at least 10 kN in the ra-
dial direction, without being pulled out of the ice or breaking.
NOTE Permanent deformation during the test is permitted.
3.4.2 When tested in the axial direction in accordance with 4.2.4.3.2 ice anchors shall withstand a force of
at least 5 kN without the hanger breaking or becoming detached.
6
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EN 568:2007 (E)
4 Test methods
4.1 Examination of design
Test the requirements specified in 3.1 by tactile and visual examination and measurement.
4.2 Determination of resistance of hammering of ice pitons, screwability of the ice screws
and resistance to fracture and holding force of ice anchors
4.2.1 Test samples
Carry out the test on four ice screws or four ice pitons according to Table 1.
Table 1 — Number of test samples
Number of samples for testing according to
Type of ice anchor
4.2.4.1 4.2.4.2 4.2.4.3.1 4.2.4.3.2
1 3
Ice piton 0 0
b
b
(largest length) (shortest length)
3
a
Ice screw 0 1 1
b
(shortest length)
a
After being tested according to 4.2.4.2, the ice screw is used for the test accordi
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