Mountaineering equipment - Rock anchors - Safety requirements and test methods

This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for rock anchors for use in mountaineering including climbing.

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Bohrhaken - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

Diese Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Bohrhaken fest, die im Rahmen
von Alpinsportarten einschließlich Klettern verwendet werden.

Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Amarrages pour rocher - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai

La présente Norme Européenne spécifie les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d’essai des amarrages pour rocher, utilisés en alpinisme et en escalade.

Gorniška oprema - Sidra za skalo - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode

General Information

Status
Withdrawn
Publication Date
11-Feb-2008
Withdrawal Date
28-Jan-2019
Technical Committee
Current Stage
9900 - Withdrawal (Adopted Project)
Start Date
28-Jan-2019
Due Date
20-Feb-2019
Completion Date
29-Jan-2019

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2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.Mountaineering equipment - Rock anchors - Safety requirements and test methodsGorniška oprema - Sidra za skalo - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metodeEquipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Amarrages pour rocher - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essaiBergsteigerausrüstung - Bohrhaken - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und PrüfverfahrenTa slovenski standard je istoveten z:EN 959:2007SIST EN 959:2008en97.220.40ICS:SIST EN 959:19981DGRPHãþDSLOVENSKI

STANDARDSIST EN 959:200801-marec-2008

EUROPEAN STANDARDNORME EUROPÉENNEEUROPÄISCHE NORMEN 959June 2007ICS 97.220.40Supersedes EN 959:1996

English VersionMountaineering equipment - Rock anchors - Safetyrequirements and test methodsEquipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Amarrages pourrocher - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essaiBergsteigerausrüstung - Bohrhaken - SicherheitstechnischeAnforderungen und PrüfverfahrenThis European Standard was approved by CEN on 10 May 2007.CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this EuropeanStandard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such nationalstandards may be obtained on application to the CEN Management Centre or to any CEN member.This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translationunder the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN Management Centre has the same status as theofficial versions.CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland,France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal,Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATIONCOMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATIONEUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNGManagement Centre: rue de Stassart, 36

B-1050 Brussels© 2007 CENAll rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reservedworldwide for CEN national Members.Ref. No. EN 959:2007: E

EN 959:2007 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword..............................................................................................................................................................3 Introduction.........................................................................................................................................................4 1 Scope......................................................................................................................................................5 2 Normative references............................................................................................................................5 3 Terms and definitions...........................................................................................................................5 4 Safety requirements..............................................................................................................................5 4.1 Materials.................................................................................................................................................5 4.2 Design.....................................................................................................................................................5 4.3 Loadbearing capacity............................................................................................................................7 5 Test methods..........................................................................................................................................7 5.1 Check of materials.................................................................................................................................7 5.2 Apparatus...............................................................................................................................................7 5.3 Procedure...............................................................................................................................................7 6 Marking...................................................................................................................................................9 7 Information supplied by the manufacturer.......................................................................................10 Annex A (informative)

Standards on mountaineering equipment................................................................11 Annex B (informative)

Choice of materials for different environmental conditions and the

consequences for inspection and maintenance..............................................................................12 Annex C (informative)

The need for longer length rock anchors for use in soft rock...............................13 Bibliography......................................................................................................................................................14

EN 959:2007 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 959:2007) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This document supersedes EN 959:1996. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by December 2007, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by December 2007. According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Repub-lic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.

EN 959:2007 (E) 4 Introduction The text of this document is based on the former UIAA-Standard P (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation. This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.

EN 959:2007 (E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for rock anchors for use in

mountaineering including climbing. 2 Normative references The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated refer-ences, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 12275:1998, Mountaineering equipment — Connectors — Safety requirements and test methods ISO 1920-3, Testing of concrete - Part 3: Making and curing test specimens 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this European Standard, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 rock anchor anchoring device intended for repeated use after installation, that is inserted into a drilled hole in the rock and held in place by gluing, or expansion forces, or positive locking, and with an attachment point for a connector (in accordance with 3.1 of EN 12275:1998) 3.2 body of the rock anchor part of the rock anchor that will be installed in the rock 3.3 hanger attachment point capable of being separated from the body of a rock anchor 3.4 installed length distance from the rock surface to the furthest point of the body in mechanical contact with the rock or bonded to the rock, after installation 4 Safety requirements 4.1 Materials All parts of a rock anchor shall be manufactured from the same material. NOTE Depending on environmental factors, rock anchors are potentially liable to suffer from corrosion. Information on the choice of materials and the need for inspection and maintenance is given in Annex B. 4.2 Design 4.2.1 The overall thickness of the border of the eye shall be 3 mm. If the edges are bevelled, the remaining inner surface shall have a minimum width of 2 mm.

EN 959:2007 (E) 6 4.2.2 All corners that will be more than 12 mm from the rock surface shall be rounded to a radius R of a minimum 10 mm (see Figure 1). Dimensions in millimetres

Key R minimum 10 mm NOTE A-A see Figure 2 Figure 1 — Clear width and external shape of the eye 4.2.3 All edges that can be handled after placement of the rock anchor in the rock shall be rounded to a radius R of minimum 0,2 mm or bevelled to a minimum of 0,2 mm × 45 ° (see Figure 2). This applies to inner and outer edges.

Key l1 minimum 0,2 mm × 45 ° l2 minimum 2 mm l3 minimum 3 mm Figure 2 — Internal edges of the eye 4.2.4 After inserting the rock anchor in the concrete block, the eye shall be wide enough to accommodate two pins, one with a diameter of (15 ± 0,1) mm for the lower part and one with a diameter of (11 ± 0,1) mm for the upper part (see Figure 1). 4.2.5 In case of expansion-type rock anchors the expansion shall not be dependent on contact with the bot-tom of the drilled hole.

EN 959:2007 (E) 7 4.2.6 For glued-in rock anchors, the installed length shall be 70 mm minimum. For mechanical rock anchors, the installed length shall be at least five times the diameter of the drilled hole (in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions). NOTE For installation in rock softer rather than the concrete test block, a longer length can be necessary to achieve the required load bearing capacity. Further information is given in Annex C. 4.3 Loadbearing capacity 4.3.1 Axial loadbearing capacity When tested in accordance with 5.3.2.2, the rock anchor shall withstand an axial load of 15 kN, without being pulled out of the concrete block or breaking. Permanent deformation is permissible. 4.3.2 Radial loadbearing capacity When tested in accordance with 5.3.2.3,

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