CEN/TC 289/WG 3 - Fastness test methods

This document specifies general principles on colour fastness evaluation tests for leather, as listed in Annex A.
Procedures included in this document are common to most of the fastness test methods.
This document provides a common basis for testing and reporting colour fastness. The uses and limitations of the methods are pointed out, several terms are defined, an outline of the drafting of the methods is given and the contents of the clauses describing the methods are discussed.
Procedures common to a number of the methods are discussed briefly.
Colour fastness means the resistance of the colour to the different agents to which these materials can be exposed during manufacture and their subsequent use.
The change in colour of leather and staining of undyed adjacent fabrics or other materials are assessed as fastness ratings.
Other visible changes in the leather under test, for example surface appearance, change in gloss or shrinkage, are considered as separate properties and reported as such.
The leather fastness test methods can be used not only for assessing leather and related materials, such as coated leather and leather board, but also for the eventual assessment of the colour fastness of leather dyes. When such a method is so used, the dye is applied to a specified retanned leather or crust leather in defined depths of colour by stated procedures and the material is then tested in the usual way.

This document specifies a method for assessing the propensity of dyes and pigments to migrate from leather to a synthetic substrate by determining the transfer of colour from the leather to white polymeric material in contact with it.
This method is applicable to leather of all kinds at any stage of processing.

This document specifies a method using microscopy to identify leather and distinguish it from other materials. The method is not applicable for identifying specific leathers (e.g. sheep leather).

This document specifies a method for the correct measurement of the colour of finished leather by instrumental means. The document describes general concepts of colour measurement adapted to leather and the calculation of differences in colour.
This document defines the following:
a)    the use of D65 as the standard light source for the leather industry;
b)    the use of D65 light source 10° as standard conditions for colour matching, for the definition of daylight simulators and as the reference light source for metamerism analysis;
c)    the use of CIEDE2000 as the colour difference formula.

This document specifies a method for determining the behaviour of the surface of a leather on rubbing with a wool felt.
It is applicable to leathers of all kinds.

ISO 20701 | IUF 427:2017 specifies a method for determining the colour fastness to saliva of all kinds of leathers, independent of the colouring procedure applied.
The method uses an artificial saliva solution to simulate whether colouring materials can migrate from leather to the mouth or to the mucous membranes.

ISO 17228:2015 specifies various ageing procedures to obtain an indication of the changes that could occur when leather is exposed to a certain environment for a prolonged time. Over time, the surface colour of leather and the leather itself change due to ageing and to the action of the surroundings on the leather. The test conditions to be used depend on the type of leather and its intended use.
This procedure can also be used to age specimens for the test of dimensional change according to ISO 17130.

ISO 2588:2014 specifies a method for the drawing, from a lot, of whole pieces of leather to form a gross sample.The method is applicable to all kinds of leather of any type of tannage.
ISO 2588:2014 does not cover marking and storage of the gross sample.

ISO 11646:2014 specifies a method of measuring the area of pieces of leather. It is intended only for the measurement of dressed and other dry flexible leathers.

ISO 17502:2013 specifies a method for determining the reflectance properties of a leather surface for visible and near infra-red radiation. The reflection value in the near infra-red determines if a leather may be classified as solar reflective.
The method is applicable to all types of leather, in particular for coloured leather.

ISO 11641:2012 specifies a method for determining the colour fastness to perspiration of leather of all kinds at all stages of processing. It applies particularly to gloving, clothing and lining leathers, as well as leather for the uppers of unlined shoes.
The method uses an artificial perspiration solution to simulate the action of human perspiration. Since perspiration varies widely from one individual to the next, it is not possible to design a method with universal validity, but the alkaline artificial perspiration solution specified in ISO 11641:2012 will give results corresponding to those with natural perspiration in most cases.

ISO 11642:2012 specifies a method for determining the colour fastness to water of leather of all kinds at all stages of processing.

This International Standard specifies a method for determining the amount of colour transferred from the surface of coloured leather to other surfaces by rubbing with a white cotton cloth.
Two tests are carried out, one with a dry rubbing cloth and one with a wet rubbing cloth.
The method is applicable to all types of coloured leather. Since after treatments of the leather as well as surface finishes can affect the degree of colour transfer, the test can be made before and/or after such treatments.

Migrated from Progress Sheet (TC Comment) (2000-07-10): WIs 056 to 060 are the result of the splitting of WI 021 (TC Res 10/1996)

Migrated from Progress Sheet (TC Comment) (2000-07-10): WIs 056 to 060 are the result of the splitting of WI 021 (TC Res 10/1996)

Migrated from Progress Sheet (TC Comment) (2000-07-10): WIs 056 to 060 are the result of the splitting of WI 021 (TC Res 10/1996)

ISO 20701 | IUF 427:2017 specifies a method for determining the colour fastness to saliva of all kinds of leathers, independent of the colouring procedure applied.
The method uses an artificial saliva solution to simulate whether colouring materials can migrate from leather to the mouth or to the mucous membranes.

This document specifies a method to determine the amount of colour transferred from the surface of coloured leather to other surfaces by rubbing.
Two tests are carried out, one with a dry rubbing cloth and one with a wet rubbing cloth.
The method is applicable to all types of coloured leather. Since after‑treatments of the leather as well as surface finishes can affect the degree of colour transfer, the test can be made before and/or after such treatments.

ISO 19076:2016 provides a method for the measurement of the surface of leather or leather parts by the use of electronic measuring machines.
It applies to the measurement of leather (or leather parts) fulfilling the following requirements:
-      flexible leather, finished or unfinished, dry or wet leather;
-      flexibility: such to allow full distension on the measuring line/surface.

ISO 15701:2015 specifies a method for assessing the propensity of dyes and pigments to migrate from leather to a synthetic substrate by determining the transfer of colour from the leather to white plasticized poly(vinyl chloride) in contact with it. This method is suitable for leather of all kinds at any stage of processing.

ISO 17131:2012 specifies a method using microscopy to identify leather and distinguish it from other materials. The method is not applicable for identifying specific leathers (e.g. sheep leather).

ISO 11640:2012 specifies a method for determining the behaviour of the surface of a leather on rubbing with a wool felt. It is applicable to leathers of all kinds.

ISO 14931:2004 gives recommended values and related test methods for apparel leather, excluding furs. It also specifies the sampling and conditioning procedures to be used for laboratory samples.
It does not apply to leather materials with coating thicknesses exceeding 0,15 mm.

This document gives guidelines for the test methods and recommended values for upholstery leather for furniture. This document also specifies the sampling and conditioning procedures of specimens.

This document gives guidelines for the test methods and recommended values for upholstery leather for automotive. This document also specifies the sampling and conditioning procedures of specimens.