ASTM D123-23

Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles

SCOPE
1.1 This standard is the compilation of all terminology developed by Committee D13 on Textiles.  
1.1.1 This terminology, consists mostly of definitions, which are specific to the textile industry. Meanings of the same terms used outside the textile industry can be found in other compilations or in dictionaries of general usage.  
1.1.2 The specific D13 subcommittee (SC) which has jurisdictional responsibility for every item is the first attribution noted after the definition. The SC terminology standard in which all the terms and definitions appear is listed by number after the jurisdiction for the term. The wording of an entry cannot be changed without the approval of the subcommittee which has jurisdiction. Users of this compilation should also review the SC terminology standard listed for more details or interpretations of these terms and their use by the SC having jurisdiction.  
1.2 In addition to being a specialized dictionary, Terminology D123 is also a tool for managing the committee's terminology. This includes finding, eliminating, and preventing redundancies, that is, where two or more terms relating the same concept are defined in different words. Redundancies can also occur when one definition is used for two or more terms.  
1.3 While the review for clarity and form are the responsibility of the terminology subcommittee, the concept of managing terminology is the broad responsibility of every writer of standards, specifically the task group leader and subcommittee chairman.  
1.4 Subsequent to a listing of specific subcommittee compilations, this standard is comprised of the following sections that are listed in the order in which they appear.  
1.4.1 Alphabetical listing of terms with definitions followed by SC attribution in brackets and SC terminology standard.  
1.4.2 Annex A1 Terms Relating to the Hand of Fabrics.  
1.4.3 Annex A2 Industry Accepted Synonyms.  
1.4.4 Annex A3 Terminology Taken From D13 Standards That Have Been Withdrawn.  
1.4.5 Annex A4 Terminology Relating to Leather.  
1.4.6 Annex A5 Terminology Revision Procedures.  
1.4.7 Appendix X1 Other Sources of Textile Terminology.  
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 30-Apr-2023
• ICS: 01.040.59 - Textile and leather technology (Vocabularies)
• ICS: 59.080.01 - Textiles in general
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.92 - Terminology

Relations

• Refers: ASTM D7139-20 - Standard Terminology for Cotton Fibers
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2020
• Refers: ASTM D5684-19a - Standard Terminology Relating to Pile Floor Coverings
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2019
• Refers: ASTM D5684-19 - Standard Terminology Relating to Pile Floor Coverings
• Effective Date: 15-May-2019
• Refers: ASTM D4848-98(2018) - Standard Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and Related Properties of Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Sep-2018
• Refers: ASTM D4849-13(2018) - Standard Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2018
• Refers: ASTM D5646-13(2018) - Standard Terminology Relating to Seams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2018
• Refers: ASTM D6798-02(2018) - Standard Terminology Relating to Flax and Linen
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2018
• Refers: ASTM D4845-10(2018) - Standard Terminology Relating to Wool
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2018
• Refers: ASTM D7023-06(2018) - Standard Terminology Relating to Home Furnishings
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2018
• Refers: ASTM D4391-18 - Standard Terminology Relating to The Burning Behavior of Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-May-2018
• Refers: ASTM D4850-13(2017) - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test Methods
• Effective Date: 15-Jul-2017
• Refers: ASTM D4391-16e1 - Standard Terminology Relating to The Burning Behavior of Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Feb-2016
• Refers: ASTM D4391-16 - Standard Terminology Relating to The Burning Behavior of Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Feb-2016
• Refers: ASTM D5253-04(2016) - Standard Terminology Relating to Floor Coverings and Textile Upholstered Furniture
• Effective Date: 15-Feb-2016
• Refers: ASTM D5219-15 - Standard Terminology Relating to Body Dimensions for Apparel Sizing
• Effective Date: 15-Feb-2015

Overview

ASTM D123-23: Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles is a comprehensive terminology standard developed by ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles. Its primary purpose is to provide precise, authoritative definitions for terms and concepts specific to the textile industry. The standard serves as a cornerstone reference for manufacturers, researchers, testing laboratories, regulatory bodies, and professionals throughout the textile value chain. It aims to eliminate ambiguity, improve communication, and facilitate consistency in the understanding and use of textile terminology across global markets.

Key Topics

ASTM D123-23 compiles definitions and terms that cover a broad scope within the textile sector, including but not limited to:

• Industry-Specific Terminology: Provides authoritative definitions unique to textiles, clearly distinguishing between industry and common usage.
• Committee Jurisdiction: Each term is attributed to the relevant D13 subcommittee responsible for its definition, ensuring subject-matter accuracy and clarity.
• Redundancy Management: The standard actively identifies and resolves duplicate or overlapping definitions to maintain concise terminology.
• Systematic Structure:
  • Alphabetical listing of terms and their definitions.
  • Annexes addressing specialized topics such as the "hand" of fabrics, industry-accepted synonyms, legacy terms from withdrawn standards, leather-related terminology, and revision procedures.
  • Appendix pointing to additional sources of textile terminology.

Applications

The practical applications of ASTM D123-23 span multiple industries and use cases, such as:

• Product Development and R&D: Ensures a common language for new textile materials, testing protocols, and innovations.
• Testing Laboratories: Offers standardized definitions essential for consistent test reporting and compliance with international test methods.
• Quality Assurance and Compliance: Minimizes the risk of misunderstandings related to material specifications, fiber properties, or product labeling.
• Supply Chain Communication: Supports uniformity in procurement, contracts, and documentation across domestic and international partners.
• Training and Education: Serves as a reference for curricula in textile engineering, fashion design, and quality management.
• Regulatory and Trade Documentation: Accepted by organizations such as the U.S. Department of Defense and developed in line with WTO Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) principles, supporting global harmonization.

Related Standards

ASTM D123-23 interrelates with numerous other ASTM standards that offer deeper, domain-specific textile vocabulary or complementary guidance, including:

• ASTM D2050: Terminology Relating to Fastener Subassemblies Used in Manufacture of Textiles
• ASTM D3888: Terminology for Yarn Spinning Systems
• ASTM D3990: Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
• ASTM D4845: Terminology Relating to Wool
• ASTM D4848/D4849/D4850: Covering yarns, fibers, fabrics, and fabric test methods
• ASTM D7139: Terminology for Cotton Fibers
• ASTM D7722: Terminology Relating to Assembly of Textile Structures

A full list of referenced standards is detailed within ASTM D123-23, linking users to specialized terminological resources for areas like care labeling, flame resistance, sizing, floor coverings, and textile automation.

---

In summary, ASTM D123-23 is the authoritative glossary for textiles, fostering international alignment and clear communication across the textile industry. By standardizing terminology, it underpins accurate specification, testing, and documentation, thereby supporting innovation and trade in textiles globally.

Standards Content (Sample)

This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D123 − 23
Standard Terminology Relating to
Textiles
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D123; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
1. Scope 1.4.4 Annex A3 Terminology Taken From D13 Standards
That Have Been Withdrawn.
1.1 This standard is the compilation of all terminology
1.4.5 Annex A4 Terminology Relating to Leather.
developed by Committee D13 on Textiles.
1.4.6 Annex A5 Terminology Revision Procedures.
1.1.1 This terminology, consists mostly of definitions,
1.4.7 Appendix X1 Other Sources of Textile Terminology.
which are specific to the textile industry. Meanings of the same
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor-
terms used outside the textile industry can be found in other
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
compilations or in dictionaries of general usage.
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
1.1.2 The specific D13 subcommittee (SC) which has juris-
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
dictional responsibility for every item is the first attribution
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
noted after the definition. The SC terminology standard in
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
which all the terms and definitions appear is listed by number
after the jurisdiction for the term. The wording of an entry
cannot be changed without the approval of the subcommittee 2. Referenced Documents
which has jurisdiction. Users of this compilation should also 2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
review the SC terminology standard listed for more details or
D2050 Terminology Relating to Fastener Subassemblies
interpretations of these terms and their use by the SC having
Used in the Manufacture of Textiles
jurisdiction.
D3136 Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel,
1.2 In addition to being a specialized dictionary, Terminol- Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather Products (With-
ogy D123 is also a tool for managing the committee’s drawn 2023)
terminology. This includes finding, eliminating, and preventing D3888 Terminology for Yarn Spinning Systems
redundancies, that is, where two or more terms relating the D3990 Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
same concept are defined in different words. Redundancies can D4391 Terminology Relating to The Burning Behavior of
also occur when one definition is used for two or more terms. Textiles
D4845 Terminology Relating to Wool
1.3 While the review for clarity and form are the responsi-
D4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and
bility of the terminology subcommittee, the concept of man-
Related Properties of Textiles
aging terminology is the broad responsibility of every writer of
D4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
standards, specifically the task group leader and subcommittee
D4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test
chairman.
Methods
1.4 Subsequent to a listing of specific subcommittee
D4920 Terminology Relating to Conditioning, Chemical,
compilations, this standard is comprised of the following
and Thermal Properties (Withdrawn 2022)
sections that are listed in the order in which they appear.
D5219 Terminology Relating to Body Dimensions for Ap-
1.4.1 Alphabetical listing of terms with definitions followed
parel Sizing
by SC attribution in brackets and SC terminology standard.
D5253 Terminology Relating to Floor Coverings and Textile
1.4.2 Annex A1 Terms Relating to the Hand of Fabrics.
Upholstered Furniture
1.4.3 Annex A2 Industry Accepted Synonyms.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.92 on Terminology. Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
Current edition approved May 1, 2023. Published September 2023. Originally the ASTM website.
approved in 1921. Last previous edition approved in 2019 as D123 – 19. DOI: The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
10.1520/D0123-23. www.astm.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D123 − 23
D5646 Terminology Relating to Seams and Stitches Used in accelerated aging, n—in textile processing and testing, the use
Home Sewing of controlled environmental conditions to promote rapid
D5684 Terminology Relating to Pile Floor Coverings physical or chemical change in a textile material.
D6477 Terminology Relating to Tire Cord, Bead Wire, Hose [D13.20] D6799
Reinforcing Wire, and Fabrics
accuracy, n—of a test method, the degree of agreement
D6798 Terminology Relating to Flax and Linen
between the true value of the property being tested (or
D6799 Terminology Relating to Inflatable Restraints
accepted standard value) and the average of many observa-
D6963 Terminology Relating to Sewn Products Automation
tions made according to the test method, preferably by many
(Withdrawn 2022)
observers. [D13.59] D4850
D7018 Terminology Relating to Glass Fiber and Its Products
D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel (Withdrawn 2022)
acid content, n—of felt, the number of milliequivalents of acid
D7023 Terminology Relating to Home Furnishings present per unit weight of felt, measured under prescribed
D7139 Terminology for Cotton Fibers
conditions. [D13.13] D4845
D7641 Guide for Textile Fibers
acromion, n—in anatomy, that part of the shoulder blade
D7722 Terminology Relating to Assembly of Textile Struc-
located at the end of the spine which articulates with the
tures
collar bone. (See also shoulder joint.) [D13.55] D5219
3. Terminology
across back shoulder width, n—the horizontal distance across
3.1 Alphabetical listing of terms with subcommittee juris- the back from the top of one shoulder joint to the top of the
other shoulder joint, taken with the arms down. [D13.55]
diction and attribution for each term.
D5219
A-tuft, n—a single-pass process for aligning hook free fibers
on the Fibroliner FL-101. [D 13.11] D7139 across front shoulder width, n—the horizontal distance across
the front from the top of one shoulder joint to the top of the
abrasion, n—the wearing away of any part of a material by
other shoulder joint, taken with the arms down. [D13.55)
rubbing against another surface. [D13.59] D4850
D5219
abrasion, n—for inflatable restraint fabrics, a fuzzy cluster of
across shoulder, n—in body measurements, the distance from
broken filaments damaged by scraping. [D13.20] D6799
shoulder joint to shoulder joint across the back.
[D13.55] D5219
abrasion cycle, n—one complete movement across the surface
of a material. [D13.59] D4850
acrylic fiber—See acrylic in D7641.
adhesion, n—the property denoting the ability of a material to
abrasion cycle, n—for the Martindale Abrasion Tester, 16 rubs
required to complete a geometric shape, known as a resist delamination or separation into two or more layers.
[D13.19] D6477
Lissajous. [D13.59] D4850
abrasion cycle, n—in abrasion testing, one or more move- adhesion, n—in tire fabrics, the force required to separate a
textile material from rubber or other elastomer by a definite
ments of the abradant across a material surface, or the
material surface across the abradant, that permits a return to prescribed method. [D13.19] D6477
its starting position. [D13.59] D4850
adhesive treated-tire cord, n—a tire cord whose adhesion to
abrasion mark, n—an area damaged by friction. rubber or other elastomer has been improved by the appli-
cation of a dip followed by rapid drying and (normally)
[D13.59] D3990
additional heat treatment. [D13.19] D6477
absolute humidity, n—the mass of water vapor present in a
unit volume of air. (See humidity and relative humidity) adsorption, n—a process in which the surface of a solid takes
[D13.51] D4920 on or absorbs in an extremely thin layer molecules of gases,
of dissolved substances, or of liquids with which it is in
absorbent compound, n—in textile cleaning, sponge-like
contact. (See also absorption, moisture equilibrium of
particles which, when saturated with water or dry solvent
testing. Compare desorption and resorption.)
and detergent and brushed into the textile, remove soil from
[D13.51] D4920
the textile. See powder cleaner. [D13.62] D5253
afterflame, n—persistent flaming of a material after the igni-
absorbent pad, n—for cleaning textile floor coverings, a damp
tion source has been removed. [D13.92] D4391
textile material (fabric, felt, sponge, or mop) used to agitate
and wipe the pile and, in the process, absorb soil. after-flame time, n—the length of time for which a material
[D13.62] D5253 continues to flame after the ignition source has been re-
moved. [D13.92] D4391
absorption, n—a process in which one material (the absorbent)
takes in or absorbs another (the absorbate); as the absorption afterglow, n—glow in a material after the removal of an
of moisture by fibers. (See also adsorption, and moisture external ignition source or after the cessation (natural or
equilibrium for testing. Compare desorption and induced) of flaming of the material. (See also flame, glow,
resorption.) [D13.51] D4920 and smoldering.) [D13.92] D4391
D123 − 23
afterglow time, n—the time afterglow continues after the ankle girth, n—in body measurements, the circumference of
cessation of flaming or after removal of the ignition source. the leg over the greatest prominence of the ankle.
[D13.92] D4391 [D13.55] D5219
air-jet spinning machine, n—a machine that converts slivers ankle height, n—in body measurements, with the subject
of staple fibers into spun yarn using drafting rollers and a standing barefoot, the distance from the center of the
vortex created by an airflow suction orifice. [D13.58] prominent outside ankle bone to the floor. [D13.55] D5219
D3888
ankle height (infant special case), n—the straight distance
air permeability, n—the rate of air flow passing perpendicular from the prominence of the outer ankle bone to the soles of
through a known area under a prescribed air pressure the feet, taken with subject lying down flat with legs
differential between the two surfaces of a material. extended and the foot positioned at 1.57 rad (90°) to the leg.
[D13.59] D4850 [D13.55] D5219
air splice, n—for inflatable restraint fabrics, the thicker annotation text, n—optional user text that can be specifically
portion of a yarn resulting from the entanglement of the defined and displayed when the pattern piece is plotted.
filaments at the ends of two multifilament yarns to create a [D13.66] D6963
continuous yarn. [D13.20] D6799
apex, n—the greatest protrusion of the breast as seen from the
air-supported roof, n—a fabric roof-system that is properly side. [D13.53] D5219
secured and primarily supported and held in place by air
apex angle, n—the angle formed between the incoming and
pressure. [D13.59] D4850
outgoing yarn at the top (and bottom) of the inter-wrapped
air wicking, n—in tires, the passage of air longitudinally along yarn area in the static condition. [D13.19] D6477
or through yarns in a fabric that has been encased and cured
applied tension, n—in yarn abrasion testing, the static tension
in rubber or other elastomer, that is, air permeability in the
exerted on the weighted end of the yarn by the applied
plane of the fabric. [D13.19] D6477
weight. [D13.19] D6477
alkali solubility, n—in wool, the percent of clean wool that is
aqueous extract, n—in wool testing, the solution obtained by
soluble in a specified alkaline solution under controlled
digesting a material with water or with a sodium chloride
conditions of temperature and time. [D13.13] D4845
solution to dissolve soluble materials. [D13.13] D4845
All-purpose, n—an outerwear garment, often with a removable
aramid fiber—See aramid in D7641.
liner, which is suitable for use in many different weather
architectural-use, n—in the building trade, a descriptive term
conditions. [D13.61] D7022
for fabrics used in fabric roof-systems or similar industrial
alpaca, n—the fleece and fiber produced by the alpaca, an
applications. (See also fabric roof-system.)
animal of the genus Llama (Lama glama pacus).
[D13.59] D4850
[D13.13] D4845
arm length, n—in body measurements, with the arm bent at 90
alternate grade reference line, n—an optional internal line
degrees and the clenched fist placed on the hip, the distance
whose orientation is used for the “x” axis of a grade rule.
from the shoulder joint along the outside of the arm over the
[D13.66] D6963
elbow to the greatest prominence on the outside of the wrist.
[D13.55] D5219
American grain count, n— direct yarn numbering system for
expressing linear density, equal to the mass in grains per 120
armhole, n—in garment construction, the area of a garment
yards of sliver or roving. [D13.58] D4849
through which the arm passes or into which a sleeve is fitted.
(Compare armscye.) [D13.55] D5219
amount, n—in cotton fiber testing with the Length Analyzer, a
measure of the thickness or pneumatic density of the test
armpit, n—in anatomy, the hollow under the junction of the
beard, proportional to the number of fibers present at various
arm and the shoulder. [D13.55] D5219
distances from the base of the specimen clamp jaws.
armscye, n—in garment construction, the opening in a gar-
[D13.11] D7139
ment for the attachment of a fitted sleeve. (Compare
amount, n—in cotton length testing with the Fibrograph, a
armhole.) [D13.55] D5219
measure of the thickness, or optical density, of the test beard,
armscye circumference, n—in body measurements, with the
proportional to the number of fibers present at various
arm hanging down, the distance from the shoulder joint
distances from the comb(s). [D13.11] D7139
through the front-break point, the armpit, the back-break
anidex fiber—See anidex in D7641.
point and to the starting point. [D13.55] D5219
animal fiber, n—any natural protein-base fiber. See D7641.
assembled button, n—a decorative button consisting of com-
ankle, n—in anatomy, the joint between the foot and the lower binations of similar or dissimilar materials, such as plastic
leg. [D13.55] D5219 and metal or metal and metal, which have been joined
D123 − 23
together by such processes as gluing, swedging or metal backing, n—for pile yarn floor covering, all materials in a pile
stamping. [D13.54] D2050 yarn floor covering other than pile yarn. [D13.21] D5684
atmosphere for testing, n—air at ambient conditions of backing fabric, n—in textiles, a fabric into which a pile yarn
is inserted, or a reinforcing layer which is adhered to the
relative humidity and temperature in which tests or experi-
ments are conducted. (See also standard atmosphere for reverse side of a fabric. [D13.21] D5684
testing.) [D13.51] D4920
bagging, n—any material, such as fabric or other suitable
atmosphere for testing textiles, n—for glass, air maintained at material used to protect commodities during shipment and/or
storage. [D13.59] D4850
a relative humidity of at least 48 % and no greater than 67 %
and at a temperature of at least 20°C (68°F) and no greater
bail, n—a portion or portions of the slider to which the pull or
than 25°C (77°F). [D13.18] D7018
pulls are attached. (Syn. lug) [D13.54] D2050
attached cushion, n—for pile yarn floor covering, a material,
bale (jute), n—a bag, sack, etc., containing packages of yarn.
bonded to the backing fabric side of a pile yarn floor
[D13.17] D6798
covering to provide additional dimensional stability,
thickness, and padding. [D13.21] D5684 barb, n—in down, the primary structure of plumage emanating
from a quill point of a down cluster. [D13.61] D7022
attached upholstery fabric, n—the exterior fabric covering
secured to a furniture unit by the furniture manufacturer or barb, n—in feathers, the primary structure of plumage ema-
custom upholsterer. (See furniture coverings)
nating from the quill of a feather. [D13.61] D7022
[D13.63] D7023
barré, n—an unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continu-
ous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven
automatic lock slider, n—a slider that provides involuntary,
positive locking action on the chain when the pull is released fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric. (Compare
warp streaks and mixed filling, see filling blend.)
restricting the movement of the slider to open the chain
unless a stress is applied through the stringers that exceeds [D13.59] D3990
the locking capacity of the slider. [D13.54] D2050
base burn, n—the point at which the flame burns the ground
(base) fabric of a raised surface textile fabric and provides a
average dynamic air permeability (ADAP), n—for inflatable
self-sustaining flame. [D13.92] D4391
restraints, the average of all of DAP measurements within a
specified range of pressure differentials. [D13.20] D6799
base size, n—the digitized or created size of a style.
[D13.66] D6963
average fiber diameter, n—the arithmetic mean width of a
group of fibers. [D13.13] D4845
bast fibers, n—in flax stems, fibers found in the layer of
phloem of the flax stem between the inner xylem tissue and
average fiber diameter, n—in wool and other animal fibers,
the epidermis tissue. [D13.17] D6798
the average width of a group of fibers when measured on a
projected image. [D13.13] D4845
bast and leaf fiber, n—fiber derived from the inner fibrous
bark and the hard coarse leaves of dicotyledonous plants
azlon fiber—See azlon D7641.
such as flax, hemp, jute, and abaca. [D13.17] D6798
B-tuft, n—a two-pass process for aligning hooked fibers on the
Fibroliner FL-101. [D13.11] D7139
batch sample, n—the material(s) used for the proficiency test
study taken from a common roll or garment lot and distrib-
back breakpoint, n—in anatomy, the location on the back of
uted to the participants. [D13.59] D4850
the body where the arm separates from the body.
[D13.55] D5219
bath mat, n—an absorbent textile floor covering normally used
in the bathroom as a pad on which to step when getting out
back coating, n—in textile floor covering, an adhesive com-
of the tub or shower. [D13.62] D5253
pound applied for such purpose as locking pile yarn tufts into
a carpet backing, bonding a secondary backing to a primary
bath rug, n—a scatter rug used in the bathroom.
backing, or increasing fabric body or stiffness and increasing
[D13.62] D5253
dimensional stability [D13.63] D7023
bath sheet, n—a textile terry product with end hems or fringes
back side, n—in textile materials, the side of the material that
and side hems or selvages that is generally much larger than
faces inward in the completed object. (Ant. face side, right
a bath towel. [D13.63] D7023
side. Syn wrongside.) [D13.54] D5646
bath towel, n—a textile terry product with end hems or fringes
back waist length, n—in body measurements, the vertical and side hems or selvages, which is used to dry a person’s
distance along the spine from the cervicale to the waist.
body after bathing or swimming. [D13.63] D7023
[D13.55] D5219
batting, n—a textile filling material consisting of a continuous
back width, n—in body measurements, the distance from web of fibers formed by carding, garnetting, air laying, or
back-breakpoint to back-breakpoint. [D13.55] D5219 other means. [D13.61] D7022
D123 − 23
DISCUSSION—Bias can exist between the true value and a test result
batting integrity, n—the ability of a textile filling material to
obtained from one method; between test results from two methods; or
resist distortion or change when subjected to multiple home
between two test results obtained from a single method, for example,
launderings or drycleanings. [D13.61] D7022
between operators or between laboratories. [D13.92] D123
bead, n—in an individual element slide fastener, an enlarged
bicomponent fiber, n—a fiber consisting of two polymers
section on the inner edge of each tape formed by the cord
which are chemically different, physically different, or both.
and weft yarns of the tape used to attach the cord to the tape.
[D13.51] D4920
the interlockable elements are affixed to the bead on an
individual element slider fastener. [D13.54] D2050
binding site, n—for pile yarn floor covering, a place at which
the pile yarn is, or can be, bound to the backing fabric.
bead, n—in a continuous element woven typeslide fastener, a
[D13.21] D5684
section of the tape where a cord and/or selected warp yarns
are woven in place by the weft yarns of the tape to form a
birdseye, n—in knitted fabrics, an unintentional tuck stitch.
bead. The continuous element is secured to the tape by the
[D13.59] D3990
bead simultaneously with the bead formation.
birefringence, n—(double refraction) a property of anisotropic
[D13.54] D2050
materials which manifests itself as a splitting of a light ray
bead, n—in a continuous element sewn type slide fastener, a
into components having different vibration directions which
section of the tape where a cord is attached to the tape by
are transmitted at different velocities. [D13.51] D4920
sewing. A cord is optional on a continuous element sewn
black felt, n—those classifications of felt manufactured to
type slide fastener. [D13.54] D2050
various shades of the color black. [D13.13] D4845
beam, n—in textiles, a large spool containing many ends of
blanket, n—for bedding, an unquilted fabric covering designed
yarn wound parallel, and used for such purposes as weaving
primarily to provide thermal insulation. [D13.63] D7023
or warp knitting. [D13.58] D4849
bleach, n—in care of textiles, a product for brightening and
beam set, n—in textiles, one or more beams of yarn in a single
aiding in the removal of soils and stains from textile
shipment to be further processed together for a specific end
materials by oxidation that is inclusive of both chlorine and
use. [D13.58] D4849
non-chlorine products. [D13.62] D3136
bedcovering, n—a textile product used on a bed over the
sheets for warmth or decoration. [D13.63] D7023 bleedthrough, n—for coated inflatable restraint fabrics, the
presence of coating material on the uncoated sie, between
bedspread, n—a type of bedcovering that is placed over the
two yarns, without covering either yarn. [D13.20] D6799
blankets and sheets for appearance and warmth.
[D13.63] D7023 blending plan, n—the instructions for mixing fibers during
specimen preparation. [D13.11] D7139
bench marks, n—marks placed on a specimen to define gage
length, that is, the portion of the specimen that will be blind hem stitch, n—in home sewing, a complex machine
evaluated in a specific test. [D13.58] D4849 stitch pattern consisting of small groups of straight or narrow
zigzag stitches separated by a wide zigzag stitch unit at
bending length, n—(1) general—a measure of the interaction
consistent intervals. [D13.54] D5646
between fabric weight and fabric stiffness as shown by the
way in which a fabric bends under its own weight. It reflects blip, n—for inflatable restraint fabrics, and short, irregularly
the stiffness of a fabric when bent in one plane under the
shaped or textured portion of an individual multifilament
force of gravity, and is one component of drape. (2) spe- yarn that has been woven into the fabric, including slough
cific—the cube root of the ratio of the flexural rigidity to the
offs, stripbacks, fuzz balls, snarls, and slubs. [D13.20]
weight per unit area. [D13.59] D4850 D6799
bias, n—(as related to textile testing) a systematic (non-
blister, n—in bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, a bulge,
random) deviation of the method average value or the
swelling, or similar surface condition on either the face
measured value from an accepted value. [D13.92] D123
fabric or the backing fabric characterized by the fabric being
DISCUSSION—General – a systematic error that contributes to the
raised from the plane of the underlying component over a
difference between a population mean of the measurements or test
limited area to give a puffy appearance. [D13.59,
results and an “accepted” or reference value.
D13.61] D4850,D7022
Specific 1 – Laboratory bias indicates systematic differences between
the true value and a value reported by a laboratory due to errors of
block, n—for cutting standard def., a a sequence of commands
application, e.g. losses, contamination, miscalibrations, and faulty
within a cut file and which activate a response by the
manipulations.
automated fabric cutter. [D13.66] D6963
Specific 2 – Method bias indicates systematic departures of the limiting
mean from the true value of the parameter measured; caused by
blocking, n—of coated fiber glass yarn solar screening, an
physical or chemical phenomena inherent in the methodology.
undesired adhesion between touching layers of a material,
bias, n—in statistics, a constant or systematic error in test such as occurs under moderate pressure, during storage or
results. use. [D13.18] D7018
D123 − 23
blocking, n—the measurement of the development of surface bow, n—a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or
tack and the thermal softening point of the material. knitted courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to the
[D13.63] D7023 selvages and form one or more arcs across the width of the
fabric. (See also double bow.) [D13.59] D3990
blotch, n—an irregularly shaped offcolored area.
[D13.59] D3990
braid, n—a narrow tubular or flat fabric produced by inter-
twining a single set of yarns according to a definite pattern
bobbin, n—a slightly tapered plastic cylinder, mounted on a
(Maypole process). [D13.18] D7018
spindle of a ring spinning frame on which yarn produced
from drafting and twisting is wound. [D13.58] D3888
braided fabric, n—a structure produced by interlacing three or
more ends of yarns in a manner such that the paths of the
body dimension, n—in garment construction, a body measure-
yarns are diagonal to the vertical axis of the fabric.
ment which can be used to build a sizing system or to select
[D13.59] D4850
an appropriately sized garment. (See also sizing system.)
[D13.55] D5219
braided rope, n—a cylindrically produced rope made by
intertwining, maypole fashion, several to many strands
body measurements, n—in anthropometry, a standardized
according to a definite pattern with adjacent strands normally
distance between two specified points on the human
containing yarns of the opposite twist. [D13.92] D123
anatomy. [D13.55] D5219
break factor, n—in yarn testing, the comparative breaking
body weight, n—in body measurements, mass in kilograms
load of a skein of yarn adjusted for the linear density of the
(pounds). [D13.55] D5219
yarn expressed in an indirect system. [D13.58] D4848
bond strength, n—of bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, the
breaking, n—the crushing of the structure of the stem;
tensile force expressed in ounces per 25 mm (1 in.) of width,
loosening the bond between the fiber bundles and shives and
required to separate the component layers under specified
breaking the shives into short pieces to facilitate its removal.
conditions. [D13.59, D13.61] D4850,D7022
[D13.17] D6798
bonded fabric, n—a layered fabric structure wherein a face or
breaking force, n—the maximum force applied to a material
shell fabric is joined to a backing fabric, such as tricot, with
carried to rupture. (Compare breaking point. See breaking
an adhesive that does not significantly add to the thickness of
strength.) [D13.58] D4848
the combined fabrics. (See also laminated fabric and
coated fabric.) [D13.59, D13.61] D4850,D7022
breaking load, n—depricated term. Use breaking force.
[D13.59] D4850
bonnet, n—in cleaning pile floor coverings, an absorbent pad
which can be mounted under a rotary shampoo machine.
breaking point, n—on a force-extension or force-elongation
[D13.62] D5253
curve, or stress-strain curve, the point corresponding with
the breaking force or the breaking stress in a tensile test.
book fold, n—a fabric doubled selvage to selvage, then folded
(Compare breaking force.) [D13.58] D4848
back and forth upon itself in predetermined lengths. (See
also shoe fold.) [D13.59] D4850
breaking strength, n—the ability or capacity of a specific
material to withstand the ultimate tensile load or force
bottom assembly, n—the components of the lowermost part of
required for rupture. (See also tensile strength)
a slide fastener that determines whether the slide fastener
[D13.58] D4848
will be non-separable or separable. (See also non-separable
slide fastener and separable slide fastener.)
breaking strength, n—a strength expressed in terms of break-
[D13.54] D2050
ing force. [D13.58] D4848
bottom stop, n—a part affixed to both stringers immediately
breaking tenacity, n—the tenacity at the breaking force.
below, or over, the chain, holding the two stringers together
[D13.58] D4848
at the bottom and preventing the slider from leaving the
breaking tenacity, n—the tenacity corresponding to the break-
chain. [D13.54] D2050
ing load. [D13.13] D4845
bound seam-finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in which
another material is used to enclose the cut edges of one or breaking toughness, n—the actual work per unit volume or
per unit mass of material that is required to rupture the
more seam allowances. (Compare Hong Kong seam-finish.)
[D13.54] D5646 material. [D13.58] D4848
bound water, n—the amount of water in a test specimen that breakout pressure, n—for inflatable restraints, the pressure
level during deployment which ruptures the module cover.
is hydrogen bonded to cellulose and expressed as a percent-
age of the mass of the specimen. [D13.11] D7139 [D13.20] D6799
boundary friction, n—friction at low sliding speeds (0.02 bridge, n—the area of a button between the holes partially
m/min or less) where lubrication occurs under thin-film covered by the sewing threads with dimensions varying
lubricant conditions. [D13.58] D4850 upon design and end use. [D13.54] D2050
D123 − 23
bridge top stop, n—in zippers, a part affixed immediately bursting strength, n—the force or pressure required to rupture
above the chain, holding the tops of the two stringers a textile by distending it with a force, applied at right angles
together and preventing the slider from leaving the chain. to the plane of the fabric, under specified conditions.
[D13.54] D2050 [D13.59] D4850
broken end, n—in woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction bursting strength, n—the force or pressure required to rupture
due to yarn breakage. [D13.59] D3990 a fabric by distending it with a force, applied at right angles
to the plane of the fabric, under specified conditions.
broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or
[D13.59] D4850
more filaments. [D13.58] D4849
bust girth, n—in body measurements, the circumference of the
broken pick, n—in woven fabrics, a discontinuity in the filling
body over the fullest part of the breasts and parallel to the
direction caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.
floor. (Compare chest girth.) [D13.55] D5219
[D13.59] D3990
bust point to bust point, n—in body measurements, the
bruise, n—in fabrics, an area that has been subjected to impact
distance across the front from the apex of one breast to the
or pressure, which differs from the adjacent normal fabric.
apex of the other. [D13.55] D5219
[D13.59] D3990
bust point to bust point (halter), n—the horizontal distance
brush, n—a hand-held cleaning tool consisting of a base into
from bust apex around the back of the neck to bust apex,
which bristles are inserted. [D13.62] D5253
taken with the arms down. [D13.55] D5219
brush, vt—in refurbishing textiles, (1) to use a brush to remove
button, n—a knob, disc, or similar object which when forced
surface particulate soils, (2) work a cleaning solution or spot
through a narrow opening or buttonhole, fastens one part of
cleaning agent into carpet pile or upholstery fabric, or (3)
a garment or other flexible substrate to another.
restore the appearance of pile fabrics. [D13.62] D5253
[D13.54] D2050
bubble, n—see preferred term blister. [D13.59] D4850
buttonhole stitch, n—in home sewing, a complex machine
stitch pattern made by coordinated motions of needle and
bulk density, n—apparent mass per unit volume.
feed, appearing as very close stitches forming a narrow
[D13.51] D4920
rectangle of stitching that is usually composed of four stitch
bulk sample, n—in the sampling of bulk material, one or more
segments, one on each side and on each of the two ends of
portions which (1) are taken from material that does not
the rectangle. [D13.54] D5646
consist of separately identifiable units and (2) can be
cable twist, n—the construction of cabled yarn, cord, or rope in
identified after sampling separate or composited units.
which each successive twist is in the opposite direction to the
[D13.58] D4849
preceding twist; an S/Z/S or Z/S/Z construction.
bulk shrinkage, n—a measure of potential stretch and power
[D13.58] D4849
of stretch yarns or a measure of bulk of textured-set yarns.
calf girth, n—in body measurements, the maximum circum-
[D13.58] D4849
ference around the leg between the knee and ankle, parallel
bunch, n—a defect in a yarn characterized by a segment not
to the floor. [D13.55] D4849
over 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) in length that shows an abrupt increase in
calibrate, v—to determine and record the relationship between
diameter caused by more fibers matted in this particular
a set of standard units of measure and the output of an
place. (See slug, slub.) [D13.58] D4849
instrument or test procedure. [D13.58] D4849
buried pile yarn, n—for coated pile yarn floor covering, that
calibration cotton standards, n—bales of cotton with estab-
portion of the pile tuft elements which remains after the tuft
lished values of micronaire, length, uniformity index and
legs have been removed by shearing. [D13.21] D5684
breaking tenacity (strength) for the purpose of calibrating
burlap, n—a coarse, heavy, plain weave fabric of yarns, such
cotton classification instruments for length, uniformity index
as bast or cotton fiber yarn. [D13.59] D4850
and breaking tenacity (strength). [D13.11] D7139
burn time, n—the time elapsed from ignition until the stop cam lock slider, n—a slider that incorporates a curled projec-
thread is severed as measured by the timing mechanism of
tion or projections on the pull that extends through a window
the test apparatus. [D13.92 D4391] or windows to effect a locking action by pressing against the
interlocking elements when the cam lock slider is in the
burning behavior, n—all the changes that take place when
locked position. [D13.54] D2050
materials or products are exposed to a specified ignition
source. [D13.92] D4391
camisole, n—waist-length, straight-cup top with shoulder
straps worn under outerwear. [D13.61] D7022
burr-wool waste, n—waste removed by the burr guard of cards
or burr pickers having a very short fiber and full of burrs or camping tentage, n—any portable temporary shelter or struc-
seeds. [D13.13] D4845 ture designed to protect persons from the elements, all or a
D123 − 23
portion of the covering which is made of fabric or other generally more important than appearance (see also career
pliable materials. [D13.52] D123 apparel, dress, career apparel). [D13.61] D7022
carpet, n—all textile floor coverings not designated as rugs.
candidate bale, n—bale of saw ginned cotton selected for
[D13.21] D5684
potential use as a calibration cotton standard.
[D13.11] D7139
carpet module, n—textile floor covering sections usually
having dimensions of less than 1 m . [D13.21] D5684
capacity, n—for tensile testing machines, the maximum force
for which the machine is designed. [D13.58] D4849
carpet sweep, v—remove loose soil particles and lint from the
textile floor covering surface using a carpet sweeper.
carbonized and neutralized wool, n—a term descriptive of
[D13.62] D5253
scoured wool processed to destroy cellulosic impurities by
treating with a mineral acid or an acid salt, drying and
carpet sweeper, n—a manually powered machine which has
baking, crushing, and dusting out the embrittled cellulosic
rotary brushes and which is used for light surface cleaning of
matter followed by neutralization of the acidified wool.
carpets and rugs. [D13.62] D5253
[D13.13] D4845
carrier, n—in braiding machinery, that part of a braiding
carded wool, n—scoured wool which has been processed
machine that holds the package of yarn, thread, or cord, and
through a carding machine. [D13.13] D4845
carries the yarn when the machine is operated.
[D13.18] D7018
carded yarn, n—an organized, continuous strand of staple
fibers produced by carding, drawing, roving formation, and
case, n—in textiles, a shipping unit, usually a carton, box, bale,
spinning. (Compare with combed yarn.) [D13.58] D3888
or other container holding a number of yarn packages.
[D13.58] D4849
carding, v—a mechanical preparation, utilized by staple fiber
spinning systems, that cleans, straightens, and aligns fibers cashmere, n—in roving, yarn, or fabrics, cashmere hair or
using wire-covered rolls (or cylinders) that converts fibers
products made therewith having a cashmere coarse-hair
into a sliver. [D13.58] D3888 content not exceeding a specified maximum percentage by
length. [D13.13] D4845
care instructions, n—in textiles, a series of directions that
describes practices which should refurbish a product without cashmere coarse-hair, n—those coarse fibers in cashmere hair
adverse effects and warn against any part of the directions having widths greater than 30 μm. [D13.13] D4845
which one could reasonably be expected to use that my harm
cashmere coarse-hair content, n—the total length of the
the item. [D13.62] D3136
cashmere coarse-hair fibers that are present, expressed as a
percentage of the total length of all the cashmere hair fibers;
care label, n—in textiles, a label or other affixed instructions
that is, the percentage by length of cashmere coarse-hair in
that report how a product should be refurbished
cashmere hair. [D13.13] D4845
[D13.62] D3136
cashmere down, n—those fibers in cashmere hair widths of 30
care procedure, n—in textiles, one or more refurbishing
μm or less. [D13.13] D4845
methods to which products may be subjected for soil and
stain removal and aesthetic improvement such as appearance
cashmere hair, n—the fibers produced by a form of goat
restoration or hand. [D13.62] D3136
(Capra hircus) indigenous to Asia and known as the cash-
mere goat. [D13.13] D4845
care symbol, n—a pictorial symbol that gives directions for
refurbishing a consumer textile product. [D13.62] D3136
catenary length, n—the difference between the length of the
shortest and the longest component in a plied yarn or cables
career apparel, n—garments, the styling and performance of
cord after twisting. [D13.19] D6477
which are designed for various end uses so as to be suitable
for on-the-job wear in a variety of businesses and profes-
center back waist length, n—in body measurements, the
sions. (See also dress career apparel and vocational career
vertical distance along the spine from the cervicale to the
apparel.) [D13.61] D7022
waist. [D13.55] D5219
career apparel, n—garments which are manufactured for a
center front waist length, n—in body measurements, the
variety of end uses and for which performance requirements
vertical distance from the neck baseline at the center front to
vary. [D13.61] D7022
the waist level. [D13.55] D5219
career apparel, dress, n—a category of tailored uniform in
cervicale, n—in anatomy, the prominent point of the seventh or
which abusive wear is not common and in which appearance
lowest neck vertebra at the back of the body.
is much more important than durability (see also career
[D13.55] D5219
apparel, career apparel, vocational). [D13.61] D7022
cervicale height, n—the vertical distance from the cervicale to
career apparel, vocational, n—a type of garment worn as a the floor, taken with subject standing and without shoes.
uniform in which abusive wear is common and durability is [D13.55] D5219
D123 − 23
cervicale height (infant special case), n—the straight distance chemical wash, n—in rug cleaning, a specialized professional
from the cervicale to the soles of the feet, taken with subject process used on oriental rugs. [D13.62] D5253
lying down flat with legs extended and foot positioned at
chest-bust girth, n— the horizontal circumference around the
1.57 rad (90°) to the leg. [D13.55] D5219
torso, taken under the arms and across the fullest part of the
cervicale to bust point, n—in body measurements, the dis-
chest/bust apex including the lower portion of the shoulder
tance from the cervicale around the base of the neck and
blades. [D13.55] D5219
down to the bust point. [D13.55] D5219
chest girth, n—in body measurements, the circumference of
cervicale to knee height, n—the vertical distance from the
the body over the shoulder blades, under the arms and across
cervicale to a point level with the midpoint of the back of the
the upper chest. (Compare bust girth.) [D13.55] D5219
knee (or crease). [D13.55] D5219
chlorine bleach, n—a bleach that releases the hypochlorite ion
cervicale to knee height (infant special case), n—the straight
in solution, for example, sodium hypochlorite.
distance from the cervicale to a point level with the midpoint
[D13.62] D3136
of the back of the knee (or crease), taken with subject lying
chopped strand, n—in glass textiles, a strand made from short
down flat with legs extended. [D13.55] D5219
predetermined lengths of cut continuous filament and used
cervical to wrist, n—in body measurements, with the arm bent,
as a reinforcing material. (See also strand.)
the distance from the cervical to the shoulder joints, along
[D13.18] D7018
the outside of the arm, over the elbow to the greater
prominence on the outside of the wrist. [D13.55] D5219
chord modulus, n—in a stress-strain curve, the ratio of the
change in stress to the change in strain between two specified
cervical to wrist length, n—the distance from the cervicale
points on the curve. [D13.58] D4848
over the top of the shoulder joint, along the outside of the
arm, over the elbow to the prominent wrist bone, taken with
circular bend, n—simultaneous, multidirectional deformation
the arm bent 1.57 rad (90°) and the hand placed on the hip.
of a fabric in which one face of a flat specimen becomes
[D13.55] D5219
concave and the other becomes convex. [D13.59] D4850
chafer fabric, n—in tire fabrics, a woven fabric, usually
clamp, n—that part of a testing machine used to grip the
coated with unvulcanized rubber, which is laid around the
specimen by means of suitable jaws. [D13.58] D4849
bead of a tire before vulcanization. [D13.19] D6477
clean-finish seam-finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in
chain, n—the portion of a slide fastener, without its compo-
which the cut edge is folded under and the fold line is edge
nents (top stops, bottom stops, slider, separating parts, etc.),
stitched. [D13.54] D2050
that is formed by alternately interlocking the elements of one
stringer with the elements of an opposing stringer.
clean wool fiber present, n—in raw wool, the mass of wool
[D13.54] D2050
base present in the raw wool, adjusted to a moisture content
of 12 %, an alcohol-extractable content of 1.5 %, and a
chain front, n—a general reference of the slide fastener when
mineral matter content of 0.5 %. [D13.13] D4845
viewed from the element side on a continuous element
fastener (CEF). For slide fastener designs where the chain is
cleaning agent, n—a chemical compound or formulation of
bilaterally symmetrical (such as an IEF for example) the
several compounds which loosens, disperses, dissolves, or
front is generally referenced by the location of the slider tab,
emulsifies soil to facilitate removal by mechanical action.
on a single tab slider, when opening or closing the chain.
[D13.63] D7023
[D13.54] D2050
clip mark, n—a visible deformation near the edge of a fabric
chain thickness, n—the measurement from front to back of the
parallel with the lengthwise direction caused by pressure
chain. On a continuous element fastener (CEF) the measure-
exerted by a claspi
...

This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation: D123 − 19 D123 − 23
Standard Terminology Relating to
Textiles
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D123; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
1. Scope
1.1 This standard is the compilation of all terminology developed by Committee D13 on Textiles.
1.1.1 This terminology, consists mostly of definitions, which are specific to the textile industry. Meanings of the same terms used
outside the textile industry can be found in other compilations or in dictionaries of general usage.
1.1.2 The specific D13 subcommittee (SC) which has jurisdictional responsibility for every item is the first attribution noted after
the definition. The SC terminology standard in which all the terms and definitions appear is listed by number after the jurisdiction
for the term. The wording of an entry cannot be changed without the approval of the subcommittee which has jurisdiction. Users
of this compilation should also review the SC terminology standard listed for more details or interpretations of these terms and
their use by the SC having jurisdiction.
1.2 In addition to being a specialized dictionary, Terminology D123 is also a tool for managing the committee’s terminology. This
includes finding, eliminating, and preventing redundancies, that is, where two or more terms relating the same concept are defined
in different words. Redundancies can also occur when one definition is used for two or more terms.
1.3 While the review for clarity and form are the responsibility of the terminology subcommittee, the concept of managing
terminology is the broad responsibility of every writer of standards, specifically the task group leader and subcommittee chairman.
1.4 Subsequent to a listing of specific subcommittee compilations, this standard is comprised of the following sections that are
listed in the order in which they appear.
1.4.1 Alphabetical listing of terms with definitions followed by SC attribution in brackets and SC terminology standard.
1.4.2 Annex A1 Terms Relating to the Hand of Fabrics.
1.4.3 Annex A2 Industry Accepted Synonyms.
1.4.4 Annex A3 Terminology Taken From D13 Standards That Have Been Withdrawn.
1.4.5 Annex A4 Terminology Relating to Leather.
1.4.6 Annex A5 Terminology Revision Procedures.
This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.92 on Terminology.
Current edition approved May 1, 2019May 1, 2023. Published June 2019September 2023. Originally approved in 1921. Last previous edition approved in 20172019 as
ɛ1
D123 – 17D123 – 19. . DOI: 10.1520/D0123-19.10.1520/D0123-23.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D123 − 23
1.4.7 Appendix X1 Other Sources of Textile Terminology.
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization
established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued
by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D2050 Terminology Relating to Fastener Subassemblies Used in the Manufacture of Textiles
D3136 Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel, Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather Products (Withdrawn 2023)
D3888 Terminology for Yarn Spinning Systems
D3990 Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
D4391 Terminology Relating to The Burning Behavior of Textiles
D4845 Terminology Relating to Wool
D4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and Related Properties of Textiles
D4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
D4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test Methods
D4920 Terminology Relating to Conditioning, Chemical, and Thermal Properties (Withdrawn 2022)
D5219 Terminology Relating to Body Dimensions for Apparel Sizing
D5253 Terminology Relating to Floor Coverings and Textile Upholstered Furniture
D5646 Terminology Relating to Seams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing
D5684 Terminology Relating to Pile Floor Coverings
D6477 Terminology Relating to Tire Cord, Bead Wire, Hose Reinforcing Wire, and Fabrics
D6798 Terminology Relating to Flax and Linen
D6799 Terminology Relating to Inflatable Restraints
D6963 Terminology Relating to Sewn Products Automation (Withdrawn 2022)
D7018 Terminology Relating to Glass Fiber and Its Products
D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel (Withdrawn 2022)
D7023 Terminology Relating to Home Furnishings
D7139 Terminology for Cotton Fibers
D7641 Guide for Textile Fibers
D7722 Terminology Relating to Assembly of Textile Structures
3. Terminology
3.1 Alphabetical listing of terms with subcommittee jurisdiction and attribution for each term.
A-tuft, n—a single-pass process for aligning hook free fibers on the Fibroliner FL-101. [D 13.11] D7139
abrasion, n—the wearing away of any part of a material by rubbing against another surface. [D13.59] D4850
abrasion, n—for inflatable restraint fabrics, a fuzzy cluster of broken filaments damaged by scraping. [D13.20] D6799
abrasion cycle, n—one complete movement across the surface of a material. [D13.59] D4850
abrasion cycle, n—for the Martindale Abrasion Tester, 16 rubs required to complete a geometric shape, known as a Lissajous.
[D13.59] D4850
abrasion cycle, n—in abrasion testing, one or more movements of the abradant across a material surface, or the material surface
across the abradant, that permits a return to its starting position. [D13.59] D4850
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.
D123 − 23
abrasion mark, n—an area damaged by friction. [D13.59] D3990
absolute humidity, n—the mass of water vapor present in a unit volume of air. (See humidity and relative humidity)
[D13.51] D4920
absorbent compound, n—in textile cleaning, sponge-like particles which, when saturated with water or dry solvent and
detergent and brushed into the textile, remove soil from the textile. See powder cleaner. [D13.62] D5253
absorbent pad, n—for cleaning textile floor coverings, a damp textile material (fabric, felt, sponge, or mop) used to agitate and
wipe the pile and, in the process, absorb soil. [D13.62] D5253
absorption, n—a process in which one material (the absorbent) takes in or absorbs another (the absorbate); as the absorption
of moisture by fibers. (See also adsorption, and moisture equilibrium for testing. Compare desorption and resorption.)
[D13.51] D4920
accelerated aging, n—in textile processing and testing, the use of controlled environmental conditions to promote rapid physical
or chemical change in a textile material. [D13.20] D6799
accuracy, n—of a test method, the degree of agreement between the true value of the property being tested (or accepted standard
value) and the average of many observations made according to the test method, preferably by many observers.
[D13.59] D4850
acid content, n—of felt, the number of milliequivalents of acid present per unit weight of felt, measured under prescribed
conditions. [D13.13] D4845
acromion, n—in anatomy, that part of the shoulder blade located at the end of the spine which articulates with the collar bone.
(See also shoulder joint.) [D13.55] D5219
across back shoulder width, n—the horizontal distance across the back from the top of one shoulder joint to the top of the other
shoulder joint, taken with the arms down. [D13.55] D5219
across front shoulder width, n—the horizontal distance across the front from the top of one shoulder joint to the top of the other
shoulder joint, taken with the arms down. [D13.55) D5219
across shoulder, n—in body measurements, the distance from shoulder joint to shoulder joint across the back. [D13.55] D5219
acrylic fiber—See acrylic in D7641.
adhesion, n—the property denoting the ability of a material to resist delamination or separation into two or more layers.
[D13.19] D6477
adhesion, n—in tire fabrics, the force required to separate a textile material from rubber or other elastomer by a definite
prescribed method. [D13.19] D6477
adhesive treated-tire cord, n—a tire cord whose adhesion to rubber or other elastomer has been improved by the application
of a dip followed by rapid drying and (normally) additional heat treatment. [D13.19] D6477
adsorption, n—a process in which the surface of a solid takes on or absorbs in an extremely thin layer molecules of gases, of
D123 − 23
dissolved substances, or of liquids with which it is in contact. (See also absorption, moisture equilibrium of testing. Compare
desorption and resorption.) [D13.51] D4920
afterflame, n—persistent flaming of a material after the ignition source has been removed. [D13.92] D4391
after-flame time, n—the length of time for which a material continues to flame after the ignition source has been removed.
[D13.92] D4391
afterglow, n—glow in a material after the removal of an external ignition source or after the cessation (natural or induced) of
flaming of the material. (See also flame, glow, and smoldering.) [D13.92] D4391
afterglow time, n—the time afterglow continues after the cessation of flaming or after removal of the ignition source.
[D13.92] D4391
air-jet spinning machine, n—a machine that converts slivers of staple fibers into spun yarn using drafting rollers and a vortex
created by an airflow suction orifice. [D13.58] D3888
air permeability, n—the rate of air flow passing perpendicular through a known area under a prescribed air pressure differential
between the two surfaces of a material. [D13.59] D4850
air splice, n—for inflatable restraint fabrics, the thicker portion of a yarn resulting from the entanglement of the filaments at
the ends of two multifilament yarns to create a continuous yarn. [D13.20] D6799
air-supported roof, n—a fabric roof-system that is properly secured and primarily supported and held in place by air pressure.
[D13.59] D4850
air wicking, n—in tires, the passage of air longitudinally along or through yarns in a fabric that has been encased and cured in
rubber or other elastomer, that is, air permeability in the plane of the fabric. [D13.19] D6477
alkali solubility, n—in wool, the percent of clean wool that is soluble in a specified alkaline solution under controlled conditions
of temperature and time. [D13.13] D4845
All-purpose, n—an outerwear garment, often with a removable liner, which is suitable for use in many different weather
conditions. [D13.61] D7022
alpaca, n—the fleece and fiber produced by the alpaca, an animal of the genus Llama (Lama glama pacus). [D13.13] D4845
alternate grade reference line, n—an optional internal line whose orientation is used for the “x” axis of a grade rule. [D13.66]
D6963
American grain count, n— direct yarn numbering system for expressing linear density, equal to the mass in grains per 120 yards
of sliver or roving. [D13.58] D4849
amount, n—in cotton fiber testing with the Length Analyzer, a measure of the thickness or pneumatic density of the test beard,
proportional to the number of fibers present at various distances from the base of the specimen clamp jaws. [D13.11] D7139
amount, n—in cotton length testing with the Fibrograph, a measure of the thickness, or optical density, of the test beard,
proportional to the number of fibers present at various distances from the comb(s). [D13.11] D7139
D123 − 23
anidex fiber—See anidex in D7641.
animal fiber, n—any natural protein-base fiber. See D7641.
ankle, n—in anatomy, the joint between the foot and the lower leg. [D13.55] D5219
ankle girth, n—in body measurements, the circumference of the leg over the greatest prominence of the ankle.
[D13.55] D5219
ankle height, n—in body measurements, with the subject standing barefoot, the distance from the center of the prominent outside
ankle bone to the floor. [D13.55] D5219
ankle height (infant special case), n—the straight distance from the prominence of the outer ankle bone to the soles of the feet,
taken with subject lying down flat with legs extended and the foot positioned at 1.57 rad (90°) to the leg. [D13.55] D5219
annotation text, n—optional user text that can be specifically defined and displayed when the pattern piece is plotted. [D13.66]
D6963
apex, n—the greatest protrusion of the breast as seen from the side. [D13.53] D5219
apex angle, n—the angle formed between the incoming and outgoing yarn at the top (and bottom) of the inter-wrapped yarn area
in the static condition. [D13.19] D6477
applied tension, n—in yarn abrasion testing, the static tension exerted on the weighted end of the yarn by the applied weight.
[D13.19] D6477
aqueous extract, n—in wool testing, the solution obtained by digesting a material with water or with a sodium chloride solution
to dissolve soluble materials. [D13.13] D4845
aramid fiber—See aramid in D7641.
architectural-use, n—in the building trade, a descriptive term for fabrics used in fabric roof-systems or similar industrial
applications. (See also fabric roof-system.)
[D13.59] D4850
arm length, n—in body measurements, with the arm bent at 90 degrees and the clenched fist placed on the hip, the distance from
the shoulder joint along the outside of the arm over the elbow to the greatest prominence on the outside of the wrist.
[D13.55] D5219
armhole, n—in garment construction, the area of a garment through which the arm passes or into which a sleeve is fitted.
(Compare armscye.) [D13.55] D5219
armpit, n—in anatomy, the hollow under the junction of the arm and the shoulder. [D13.55] D5219
armscye, n—in garment construction, the opening in a garment for the attachment of a fitted sleeve. (Compare armhole.)
[D13.55] D5219
armscye circumference, n—in body measurements, with the arm hanging down, the distance from the shoulder joint through
the front-break point, the armpit, the back-break point and to the starting point. [D13.55] D5219
D123 − 23
assembled button, n—a decorative button consisting of combinations of similar or dissimilar materials, such as plastic and
metal or metal and metal, which have been joined together by such processes as gluing, swedging or metal stamping. [D13.54]
D2050
atmosphere for testing, n—air at ambient conditions of relative humidity and temperature in which tests or experiments are
conducted. (See also standard atmosphere for testing.) [D13.51] D4920
atmosphere for testing textiles, n—for glass, air maintained at a relative humidity of at least 48 % and no greater than 67 %
and at a temperature of at least 20°C (68°F) and no greater than 25°C (77°F). [D13.18] D7018
attached cushion, n—for pile yarn floor covering, a material, bonded to the backing fabric side of a pile yarn floor covering
to provide additional dimensional stability, thickness, and padding. [D13.21] D5684
attached upholstery fabric, n—the exterior fabric covering secured to a furniture unit by the furniture manufacturer or custom
upholsterer. (See furniture coverings) [D13.63] D7023
automatic lock slider, n—a slider that provides involuntary, positive locking action on the chain when the pull is released
restricting the movement of the slider to open the chain unless a stress is applied through the stringers that exceeds the locking
capacity of the slider. [D13.54] D2050
average dynamic air permeability (ADAP), n—for inflatable restraints, the average of all of DAP measurements within a
specified range of pressure differentials. [D13.20] D6799
average fiber diameter, n—the arithmetic mean width of a group of fibers. [D13.13] D4845
average fiber diameter, n—in wool and other animal fibers, the average width of a group of fibers when measured on a
projected image. [D13.13] D4845
azlon fiber—See azlonD7641.
B-tuft, n—a two-pass process for aligning hooked fibers on the Fibroliner FL-101. [D13.11] D7139
back breakpoint, n—in anatomy, the location on the back of the body where the arm separates from the body. [D13.55] D5219
back coating, n—in textile floor covering, an adhesive compound applied for such purpose as locking pile yarn tufts into a carpet
backing, bonding a secondary backing to a primary backing, or increasing fabric body or stiffness and increasing dimensional
stability [D13.63] D7023
back side, n—in textile materials, the side of the material that faces inward in the completed object. (Ant. face side,right side.
Syn wrongside.) [D13.54] D5646
back waist length, n—in body measurements, the vertical distance along the spine from the cervicale to the waist.
[D13.55] D5219
back width, n—in body measurements, the distance from back-breakpoint to back-breakpoint. [D13.55] D5219
backing, n—for pile yarn floor covering, all materials in a pile yarn floor covering other than pile yarn. [D13.21] D5684
D123 − 23
backing fabric, n—in textiles, a fabric into which a pile yarn is inserted, or a reinforcing layer which is adhered to the reverse
side of a fabric. [D13.21] D5684
bagging, n—any material, such as fabric or other suitable material used to protect commodities during shipment and/or storage.
[D13.59] D4850
bail, n—a portion or portions of the slider to which the pull or pulls are attached. (Syn. lug) [D13.54] D2050
bale (jute), n—a bag, sack, etc., containing packages of yarn. [D13.17] D6798
barb, n—in down, the primary structure of plumage emanating from a quill point of a down cluster. [D13.61] D7022
barb, n—in feathers, the primary structure of plumage emanating from the quill of a feather. [D13.61] D7022
barré, n—an unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven fabric
or to the courses of circular knit fabric. (Compare warp streaks and mixed filling, see filling blend.) [D13.59] D3990
base burn, n—the point at which the flame burns the ground (base) fabric of a raised surface textile fabric and provides a
self-sustaining flame. [D13.92] D4391
base size, n—the digitized or created size of a style. [D13.66] D6963
bast fibers, n—in flax stems, fibers found in the layer of phloem of the flax stem between the inner xylem tissue and the
epidermis tissue. [D13.17] D6798
bast and leaf fiber, n—fiber derived from the inner fibrous bark and the hard coarse leaves of dicotyledonous plants such as flax,
hemp, jute, and abaca. [D13.17] D6798
batch sample, n—the material(s) used for the proficiency test study taken from a common roll or garment lot and distributed
to the participants. [D13.59] D4850
bath mat, n—an absorbent textile floor covering normally used in the bathroom as a pad on which to step when getting out of
the tub or shower. [D13.62] D5253
bath rug, n—a scatter rug used in the bathroom. [D13.62] D5253
bath sheet, n—a textile terry product with end hems or fringes and side hems or selvages that is generally much larger than a
bath towel. [D13.63] D7023
bath towel, n—a textile terry product with end hems or fringes and side hems or selvages, which is used to dry a person’s body
after bathing or swimming. [D13.63] D7023
batting, n—a textile filling material consisting of a continuous web of fibers formed by carding, garnetting, air laying, or other
means. [D13.61] D7022
batting integrity, n—the ability of a textile filling material to resist distortion or change when subjected to multiple home
launderings or drycleanings. [D13.61] D7022
D123 − 23
bead, n—in an individual element slide fastener, an enlarged section on the inner edge of each tape formed by the cord and weft
yarns of the tape used to attach the cord to the tape. the interlockable elements are affixed to the bead on an individual element
slider fastener. [D13.54] D2050
bead, n—in a continuous element woven typeslide fastener, a section of the tape where a cord and/or selected warp yarns are
woven in place by the weft yarns of the tape to form a bead. The continuous element is secured to the tape by the bead
simultaneously with the bead formation. [D13.54] D2050
bead, n—in a continuous element sewn type slide fastener, a section of the tape where a cord is attached to the tape by sewing.
A cord is optional on a continuous element sewn type slide fastener. [D13.54] D2050
beam, n—in textiles, a large spool containing many ends of yarn wound parallel, and used for such purposes as weaving or warp
knitting. [D13.58] D4849
beam set, n—in textiles, one or more beams of yarn in a single shipment to be further processed together for a specific end use.
[D13.58] D4849
bedcovering, n—a textile product used on a bed over the sheets for warmth or decoration. [D13.63] D7023
bedspread, n—a type of bedcovering that is placed over the blankets and sheets for appearance and warmth. [D13.63] D7023
bench marks, n—marks placed on a specimen to define gage length, that is, the portion of the specimen that will be evaluated
in a specific test. [D13.58] D4849
bending length, n—(1) general—a measure of the interaction between fabric weight and fabric stiffness as shown by the way
in which a fabric bends under its own weight. It reflects the stiffness of a fabric when bent in one plane under the force of gravity,
and is one component of drape. (2) specific—the cube root of the ratio of the flexural rigidity to the weight per unit area.
[D13.59] D4850
bias, n—(as related to textile testing) a systematic (non-random) deviation of the method average value or the measured value
from an accepted value. [D13.92] D123
DISCUSSION—
General – a systematic error that contributes to the difference between a population mean of the measurements or test results and an “accepted” or
reference value.
Specific 1 – Laboratory bias indicates systematic differences between the true value and a value reported by a laboratory due to errors of application,
e.g. losses, contamination, miscalibrations, and faulty manipulations.
Specific 2 – Method bias indicates systematic departures of the limiting mean from the true value of the parameter measured; caused by physical or
chemical phenomena inherent in the methodology.
bias, n—in statistics, a constant or systematic error in test results.
DISCUSSION—
Bias can exist between the true value and a test result obtained from one method; between test results from two methods; or between two test results
obtained from a single method, for example, between operators or between laboratories. [D13.59] [D13.92] D4850D123
bicomponent fiber, n—a fiber consisting of two polymers which are chemically different, physically different, or both.
[D13.51] D4920
binding site, n—for pile yarn floor covering, a place at which the pile yarn is, or can be, bound to the backing fabric.
[D13.21] D5684
birdseye, n—in knitted fabrics, an unintentional tuck stitch. [D13.59] D3990
D123 − 23
birefringence, n—(double refraction) a property of anisotropic materials which manifests itself as a splitting of a light ray into
components having different vibration directions which are transmitted at different velocities. [D13.51] D4920
black felt, n—those classifications of felt manufactured to various shades of the color black. [D13.13] D4845
blanket, n—for bedding, an unquilted fabric covering designed primarily to provide thermal insulation. [D13.63] D7023
bleach, n—in care of textiles, a product for brightening and aiding in the removal of soils and stains from textile materials by
oxidation that is inclusive of both chlorine and non-chlorine products. [D13.62] D3136
bleedthrough, n—for coated inflatable restraint fabrics, the presence of coating material on the uncoated sie, between two
yarns, without covering either yarn. [D13.20] D6799
blending plan, n—the instructions for mixing fibers during specimen preparation. [D13.11] D7139
blind hem stitch, n—in home sewing, a complex machine stitch pattern consisting of small groups of straight or narrow zigzag
stitches separated by a wide zigzag stitch unit at consistent intervals. [D13.54] D5646
blip, n—for inflatable restraint fabrics, and short, irregularly shaped or textured portion of an individual multifilament yarn that
has been woven into the fabric, including slough offs, stripbacks, fuzz balls, snarls, and slubs. [D13.20] D6799
blister, n—in bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, a bulge, swelling, or similar surface condition on either the face fabric or the
backing fabric characterized by the fabric being raised from the plane of the underlying component over a limited area to give
a puffy appearance. [D13.59, D13.61] D4850,D7022
block, n—for cutting standard def., a a sequence of commands within a cut file and which activate a response by the automated
fabric cutter. [D13.66] D6963
blocking, n—of coated fiber glass yarn solar screening, an undesired adhesion between touching layers of a material, such as
occurs under moderate pressure, during storage or use. [D13.18] D7018
blocking, n—the measurement of the development of surface tack and the thermal softening point of the material.
[D13.63] D7023
blotch, n—an irregularly shaped offcolored area. [D13.59] D3990
bobbin, n—a slightly tapered plastic cylinder, mounted on a spindle of a ring spinning frame on which yarn produced from
drafting and twisting is wound. [D13.58] D3888
body dimension, n—in garment construction, a body measurement which can be used to build a sizing system or to select an
appropriately sized garment. (See also sizing system.) [D13.55] D5219
body measurements, n—in anthropometry, a standardized distance between two specified points on the human anatomy.
[D13.55] D5219
body weight, n—in body measurements, mass in kilograms (pounds). [D13.55] D5219
D123 − 23
bond strength, n—of bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, the tensile force expressed in ounces per 25 mm (1 in.) of width,
required to separate the component layers under specified conditions. [D13.59, D13.61] D4850,D7022
bonded fabric, n—a layered fabric structure wherein a face or shell fabric is joined to a backing fabric, such as tricot, with an
adhesive that does not significantly add to the thickness of the combined fabrics. (See also laminated fabric and coated fabric.)
[D13.59, D13.61] D4850,D7022
bonnet, n—in cleaning pile floor coverings, an absorbent pad which can be mounted under a rotary shampoo machine.
[D13.62] D5253
book fold, n—a fabric doubled selvage to selvage, then folded back and forth upon itself in predetermined lengths. (See also
shoe fold.) [D13.59] D4850
bottom assembly, n—the components of the lowermost part of a slide fastener that determines whether the slide fastener will
be non-separable or separable. (See also non-separable slide fastener and separable slide fastener.) [D13.54] D2050
bottom stop, n—a part affixed to both stringers immediately below, or over, the chain, holding the two stringers together at the
bottom and preventing the slider from leaving the chain. [D13.54] D2050
bound seam-finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in which another material is used to enclose the cut edges of one or more
seam allowances. (Compare Hong Kong seam-finish.) [D13.54] D5646
bound water, n—the amount of water in a test specimen that is hydrogen bonded to cellulose and expressed as a percentage of
the mass of the specimen. [D13.11] D7139
boundary friction, n—friction at low sliding speeds (0.02 m/min or less) where lubrication occurs under thin-film lubricant
conditions. [D13.58] D4850
bow, n—a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitted courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to the selvages
and form one or more arcs across the width of the fabric. (See also double bow.) [D13.59] D3990
braid, n—a narrow tubular or flat fabric produced by intertwining a single set of yarns according to a definite pattern (Maypole
process). [D13.18] D7018
braided fabric, n—a structure produced by interlacing three or more ends of yarns in a manner such that the paths of the yarns
are diagonal to the vertical axis of the fabric. [D13.59] D4850
braided rope, n—a cylindrically produced rope made by intertwining, maypole fashion, several to many strands according to
a definite pattern with adjacent strands normally containing yarns of the opposite twist. [D13.92] D123
break factor, n—in yarn testing, the comparative breaking load of a skein of yarn adjusted for the linear density of the yarn
expressed in an indirect system. [D13.58] D4848
breaking, n—the crushing of the structure of the stem; loosening the bond between the fiber bundles and shives and breaking
the shives into short pieces to facilitate its removal. [D13.17] D6798
breaking force, n—the maximum force applied to a material carried to rupture. (Compare breaking point. See breaking
strength.) [D13.58] D4848
D123 − 23
breaking load, n—depricated term. Use breaking force. [D13.59] D4850
breaking point, n—on a force-extension or force-elongation curve, or stress-strain curve, the point corresponding with the
breaking force or the breaking stress in a tensile test. (Compare breaking force.) [D13.58] D4848
breaking strength, n—the ability or capacity of a specific material to withstand the ultimate tensile load or force required for
rupture. (See also tensile strength) [D13.58] D4848
breaking strength, n—a strength expressed in terms of breaking force. [D13.58] D4848
breaking tenacity, n—the tenacity at the breaking force. [D13.58] D4848
breaking tenacity, n—the tenacity corresponding to the breaking load. [D13.13] D4845
breaking toughness, n—the actual work per unit volume or per unit mass of material that is required to rupture the material.
[D13.58] D4848
breakout pressure, n—for inflatable restraints, the pressure level during deployment which ruptures the module cover.
[D13.20] D6799
bridge, n—the area of a button between the holes partially covered by the sewing threads with dimensions varying upon design
and end use. [D13.54] D2050
bridge top stop, n—in zippers, a part affixed immediately above the chain, holding the tops of the two stringers together and
preventing the slider from leaving the chain. [D13.54] D2050
broken end, n—in woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction due to yarn breakage. [D13.59] D3990
broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or more filaments. [D13.58] D4849
broken pick, n—in woven fabrics, a discontinuity in the filling direction caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.
[D13.59] D3990
bruise, n—in fabrics, an area that has been subjected to impact or pressure, which differs from the adjacent normal fabric.
[D13.59] D3990
brush, n—a hand-held cleaning tool consisting of a base into which bristles are inserted. [D13.62] D5253
brush, vt—in refurbishing textiles,(1) to use a brush to remove surface particulate soils, (2) work a cleaning solution or spot
cleaning agent into carpet pile or upholstery fabric, or (3) restore the appearance of pile fabrics. [D13.62] D5253
bubble, n—see preferred term blister. [D13.59] D4850
bulk density, n—apparent mass per unit volume. [D13.51] D4920
bulk sample, n—in the sampling of bulk material, one or more portions which (1) are taken from material that does not consist
of separately identifiable units and (2) can be identified after sampling separate or composited units. [D13.58] D4849
D123 − 23
bulk shrinkage, n—a measure of potential stretch and power of stretch yarns or a measure of bulk of textured-set yarns.
[D13.58] D4849
bunch, n—a defect in a yarn characterized by a segment not over 6 mm ( ⁄4 in.) in length that shows an abrupt increase in
diameter caused by more fibers matted in this particular place. (See slug, slub.) [D13.58] D4849
buried pile yarn, n—for coated pile yarn floor covering, that portion of the pile tuft elements which remains after the tuft legs
have been removed by shearing. [D13.21] D5684
burlap, n—a coarse, heavy, plain weave fabric of yarns, such as bast or cotton fiber yarn. [D13.59] D4850
burn time, n—the time elapsed from ignition until the stop thread is severed as measured by the timing mechanism of the test
apparatus. [D13.92 D4391]
burning behavior, n—all the changes that take place when materials or products are exposed to a specified ignition source.
[D13.92] D4391
burr-wool waste, n—waste removed by the burr guard of cards or burr pickers having a very short fiber and full of burrs or
seeds. [D13.13] D4845
bursting strength, n—the force or pressure required to rupture a textile by distending it with a force, applied at right angles to
the plane of the fabric, under specified conditions. [D13.59] D4850
bursting strength, n—the force or pressure required to rupture a fabric by distending it with a force, applied at right angles to
the plane of the fabric, under specified conditions. [D13.59] D4850
bust girth, n—in body measurements, the circumference of the body over the fullest part of the breasts and parallel to the floor.
(Compare chest girth.) [D13.55] D5219
bust point to bust point, n—in body measurements, the distance across the front from the apex of one breast to the apex of the
other. [D13.55] D5219
bust point to bust point (halter), n—the horizontal distance from bust apex around the back of the neck to bust apex, taken
with the arms down. [D13.55] D5219
button, n—a knob, disc, or similar object which when forced through a narrow opening or buttonhole, fastens one part of a
garment or other flexible substrate to another. [D13.54] D2050
buttonhole stitch, n—in home sewing, a complex machine stitch pattern made by coordinated motions of needle and feed,
appearing as very close stitches forming a narrow rectangle of stitching that is usually composed of four stitch segments, one
on each side and on each of the two ends of the rectangle. [D13.54] D5646
cable twist, n—the construction of cabled yarn, cord, or rope in which each successive twist is in the opposite direction to the
preceding twist; an S/Z/S or Z/S/Z construction. [D13.58] D4849
calf girth, n—in body measurements, the maximum circumference around the leg between the knee and ankle, parallel to the
floor. [D13.55] D4849
D123 − 23
calibrate, v—to determine and record the relationship between a set of standard units of measure and the output of an instrument
or test procedure. [D13.58] D4849
calibration cotton standards, n—bales of cotton with established values of micronaire, length, uniformity index and breaking
tenacity (strength) for the purpose of calibrating cotton classification instruments for length, uniformity index and breaking
tenacity (strength). [D13.11] D7139
cam lock slider, n—a slider that incorporates a curled projection or projections on the pull that extends through a window or
windows to effect a locking action by pressing against the interlocking elements when the cam lock slider is in the locked
position. [D13.54] D2050
camisole, n—waist-length, straight-cup top with shoulder straps worn under outerwear. [D13.61] D7022
camping tentage, n—any portable temporary shelter or structure designed to protect persons from the elements, all or a portion
of the covering which is made of fabric or other pliable materials. [D13.52] D123
candidate bale, n—bale of saw ginned cotton selected for potential use as a calibration cotton standard. [D13.11] D7139
capacity, n—for tensile testing machines, the maximum force for which the machine is designed. [D13.58] D4849
carbonized and neutralized wool, n—a term descriptive of scoured wool processed to destroy cellulosic impurities by treating
with a mineral acid or an acid salt, drying and baking, crushing, and dusting out the embrittled cellulosic matter followed by
neutralization of the acidified wool. [D13.13] D4845
carded wool, n—scoured wool which has been processed through a carding machine. [D13.13] D4845
carded yarn, n—an organized, continuous strand of staple fibers produced by carding, drawing, roving formation, and spinning.
(Compare with combed yarn.) [D13.58] D3888
carding, v—a mechanical preparation, utilized by staple fiber spinning systems, that cleans, straightens, and aligns fibers using
wire-covered rolls (or cylinders) that converts fibers into a sliver. [D13.58] D3888
care instructions, n—in textiles, a series of directions that describes practices which should refurbish a product without adverse
effects and warn against any part of the directions which one could reasonably be expected to use that my harm the item.
[D13.62] D3136
care label, n—in textiles, a label or other affixed instructions that report how a product should be refurbished [D13.62] D3136
care procedure, n—in textiles, one or more refurbishing methods to which products may be subjected for soil and stain removal
and aesthetic improvement such as appearance restoration or hand. [D13.62] D3136
care symbol, n—a pictorial symbol that gives directions for refurbishing a consumer textile product. [D13.62] D3136
career apparel, n—garments, the styling and performance of which are designed for various end uses so as to be suitable for
on-the-job wear in a variety of businesses and professions. (See also dress career apparel and vocational career apparel.)
[D13.61] D7022
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career apparel, n—garments which are manufactured for a variety of end uses and for which performance requirements vary.
[D13.61] D7022
career apparel, dress, n—a category of tailored uniform in which abusive wear is not common and in which appearance is much
more important than durability (see also career apparel, career apparel, vocational). [D13.61] D7022
career apparel, vocational, n—a type of garment worn as a uniform in which abusive wear is common and durability is
generally more important than appearance (see also career apparel, dress, career apparel). [D13.61] D7022
carpet, n—all textile floor coverings not designated as rugs. [D13.21] D5684
carpet module, n—textile floor covering sections usually having dimensions of less than 1 m . [D13.21] D5684
carpet sweep, v—remove loose soil particles and lint from the textile floor covering surface using a carpet sweeper.
[D13.62] D5253
carpet sweeper, n—a manually powered machine which has rotary brushes and which is used for light surface cleaning of
carpets and rugs. [D13.62] D5253
carrier, n—in braiding machinery, that part of a braiding machine that holds the package of yarn, thread, or cord, and carries
the yarn when the machine is operated. [D13.18] D7018
case, n—in textiles, a shipping unit, usually a carton, box, bale, or other container holding a number of yarn packages.
[D13.58] D4849
cashmere, n—in roving, yarn, or fabrics, cashmere hair or products made therewith having a cashmere coarse-hair content not
exceeding a specified maximum percentage by length. [D13.13] D4845
cashmere coarse-hair, n—those coarse fibers in cashmere hair having widths greater than 30 μm. [D13.13] D4845
cashmere coarse-hair content, n—the total length of the cashmere coarse-hair fibers that are present, expressed as a percentage
of the total length of all the cashmere hair fibers; that is, the percentage by length of cashmere coarse-hair in cashmere hair.
[D13.13] D4845
cashmere down, n—those fibers in cashmere hair widths of 30 μm or less. [D13.13] D4845
cashmere hair, n—the fibers produced by a form of goat (Capra hircus) indigenous to Asia and known as the cashmere goat.
[D13.13] D4845
catenary length, n—the difference between the length of the shortest and the longest component in a plied yarn or cables cord
after twisting. [D13.19] D6477
center back waist length, n—in body measurements, the vertical distance along the spine from the cervicale to the waist.
[D13.55] D5219
center front waist length, n—in body measurements, the vertical distance from the neck baseline at the center front to the waist
level. [D13.55] D5219
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cervicale, n—in anatomy, the prominent point of the seventh or lowest neck vertebra at the back of the body. [D13.55] D5219
cervicale height, n—the vertical distance from the cervicale to the floor, taken with subject standing and without shoes.
[D13.55] D5219
cervicale height (infant special case), n—the straight distance from the cervicale to the soles of the feet, taken with subject
lying down flat with legs extended and foot positioned at 1.57 rad (90°) to the leg. [D13.55] D5219
cervicale to bust point, n—in body measurements, the distance from the cervicale around the base of the neck and down to the
bust point. [D13.55] D5219
cervicale to knee height, n—the vertical distance from the cervicale to a point level with the midpoint of the back of the knee
(or crease). [D13.55] D5219
cervicale to knee height (infant special case), n—the straight distance from the cervicale to a point level with the midpoint of
the back of the knee (or crease), taken with subject lying down flat with legs extended. [D13.55] D5219
cervical to wrist, n—in body measurements, with the arm bent, the distance from the cervical to the shoulder joints, along the
outside of the arm, over the elbow to the greater prominence on the outside of the wrist. [D13.55] D5219
cervical to wrist length, n—the distance from the cervicale over the top of the shoulder joint, along the outside of the arm, over
the elbow to the prominent wrist bone, taken with the arm bent 1.57 rad (90°) and the hand placed on the hip. [D13.55] D5219
chafer fabric, n—in tire fabrics, a woven fabric, usually coated with unvulcanized rubber, which is laid around the bead of a
tire before vulcanization. [D13.19] D6477
chain, n—the portion of a slide fastener, without its components (top stops, bottom stops, slider, separating parts, etc.), that is
formed by alternately interlocking the elements of one stringer with the elements of an opposing stringer. [D13.54] D2050
chain front, n—a general reference of the slide fastener when viewed from the element side on a continuous element fastener
(CEF). For slide fastener designs where the chain is bilaterally symmetrical (such as an IEF for example) the front is generally
referenced by the location of the slider tab, on a single tab slider, when opening or closing the chain. [D13.54] D2050
chain thickness, n—the measurement from front to back of the chain. On a continuous element fastener (CEF) the measurement
includes the tape and sewing threads on a sewn type fastener or the tape and yarns for securing the element to the tape on a
woven type of fastener if these parts extend beyond the element. [D13.54] D2050
chain width, n—the measurement between the shoulders of the interlocked elements or between the outermost edges of the bead
if the bead extends beyond the elements. [D13.54] D2050
change in surface appearance, n—for pile yarn floor coverings, the physical affect of changing the use-surface by mechanical
means or foot traffic. [D13.21] D5684
charring, n—the formation of carbonaceous residue as the result of pyrolysis or incomplete combustion. [D13.92] D4391
chemical wash, n—in rug cleaning, a specialized professional process used on oriental rugs. [D13.62] D5253
D123 − 23
chest-bust girth, n— the horizontal circumference around the torso, taken under the arms and across the fullest part of the
chest/bust apex including the lower portion of the shoulder blades. [D13.55] D5219
chest girth, n—in body measurements, the circumference of the body over the shoulder blades, under the arms and across the
upper chest. (Compare bust girth.) [D13.55] D5219
chlorine bleach, n—a bleach that releases the hypochlorite ion in solution, for example, sodium hypochlorite. [D13.62] D3136
chopped stra
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