ASTM D4119-22

Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Boys' Knitted Dress Shirt Fabrics

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Upon agreement between the purchaser and the seller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this performance specification.  
5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified upon agreement between the purchaser and the seller.  
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D4119 except for the following characteristic(s).”  
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.  
5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties and methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified methods.
SCOPE
1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabrics comprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers, used in men's and boy's dress shirts.  
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to knitted fabrics used for interlinings.  
1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.  
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 31-Oct-2022
• ICS: 61.020 - Clothes
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.61 - Apparel

Relations

• Refers: ASTM D3787-16(2020) - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2020
• Refers: ASTM D123-17 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Mar-2017
• Refers: ASTM D3787-16 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
• Effective Date: 01-Jan-2016
• Refers: ASTM D123-15b - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Sep-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-15a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Sep-2015
• Refers: ASTM D3787-15 - Standard Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2015
• Refers: ASTM D2724-07(2015) - Standard Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-15 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Apr-2015
• Refers: ASTM D7022-13 - Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel
• Effective Date: 01-Oct-2013
• Refers: ASTM D7022-13e1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel
• Effective Date: 01-Oct-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13ae1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jun-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jun-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-May-2013
• Refers: ASTM D2594-04(2012) - Standard Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having Low Power
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2012
• Refers: ASTM D123-12e1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Feb-2012

Overview

ASTM D4119-22: Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Boys' Knitted Dress Shirt Fabrics establishes comprehensive requirements for the performance and quality of knitted fabrics used in manufacturing men’s and boys’ dress shirts. Developed by ASTM International, this standard ensures that such fabrics, regardless of their fiber composition or blend, meet agreed-upon criteria between purchasers and vendors. The specification addresses key aspects such as dimensional stability, bursting strength, colorfastness, and fabric appearance, promoting consistency and reliability for end users.

Key Topics

• Scope of Application

  • Covers all knitted fabrics designed for men’s and boys’ dress shirts, irrespective of textile fiber type or blend.
  • Excludes knitted fabrics intended for interlining purposes.
  • Requirements may apply to both length and width directions of the fabric where relevant.

• Performance Requirements

  • Fabrics must meet metrics outlined in an official set of criteria (Table 1), covering properties such as:
    • Bursting strength
    • Dimensional change after laundering, drycleaning, and industrial pressing
    • Growth (fabric elasticity/expansion)
    • Colorfastness to various effects (laundering, drycleaning, light, bleach, crocking, perspiration, fumes)
    • Fabric smoothness after repeated laundering
    • Flammability per regulatory standards

• Modification and Customization

  • Purchaser and seller may negotiate deviations from standard requirements to accommodate specific fashion or aesthetic needs.
  • Any such modifications must be explicitly stated in documentation as exceptions to the standard.

• Guidance in Absence of Agreement

  • If no prior arrangement is established, Table 1’s listed requirements should serve as an industry guideline.

• Test Methods and Sampling Procedures

  • Utilizes referenced ASTM and AATCC test methods for evaluating performance.
  • Details protocols for lot and laboratory sampling to ensure representative testing.

Applications

The primary application of ASTM D4119-22 is for textile and apparel industries engaged in sourcing, manufacturing, or quality-assuring men’s and boys’ knitted dress shirt fabrics. Key practical uses include:

• Procurement

  • Enables buyers and sellers to establish clear, measurable criteria for fabric selection and acceptance.
  • Ensures that textiles supplied for dress shirts meet agreed standards for durability, appearance, and stability.

• Quality Control

  • Provides benchmarks for routine factory or third-party lab tests on fabric lots.
  • Facilitates dispute resolution via standardized assessment methods in case of quality claims.

• Product Development and Compliance

  • Assists designers and manufacturers in specifying fabric needs, especially where regulatory or consumer performance is critical (e.g., dimensional stability after washing).
  • Supports conformance to international trade and regulatory requirements, including flammability standards.

• Customization for Fashion Trends

  • Allows flexibility to tailor certain properties of the fabric without invalidating the overall reference to the ASTM standard, accommodating the dynamic needs of the fashion market.

Related Standards

ASTM D4119-22 references a range of test methods and terminology standards to guide proper evaluation of fabric properties, including:

• ASTM D123 – Terminology Relating to Textiles
• ASTM D2594 – Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics
• ASTM D2724 – Test Method for Bond Strength of Apparel Fabrics
• ASTM D3786/D3787 – Test Methods for Bursting Strength
• ASTM D7022 – Terminology Relating to Apparel (Withdrawn, but previously referenced)
• AATCC Methods – For testing colorfastness (to laundering, crocking, perspiration, light, fumes, bleach), dimensional change, and fabric appearance after laundering
• 16 CFR 1610 – United States Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations
• MIL-STD-105D – Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes

These references ensure that assessments are consistent, reliable, and recognized by the global textile and apparel industry.

Keywords: ASTM D4119, knitted dress shirt fabrics, men’s dress shirts, boys’ dress shirts, textile standards, fabric performance specification, colorfastness, dimensional stability, bursting strength, flammability, AATCC, apparel quality standards.

Standards Content (Sample)

This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation:D4119 −22
Standard Performance Specification for
Men’s and Boys’ Knitted Dress Shirt Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4119; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D7022 Terminology Relating toApparel (Withdrawn 2022)
2.2 AATCC Methods:
1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabrics
TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method
comprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers, used in
TM15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
men’s and boy’s dress shirts.
TM16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to
TM23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
knitted fabrics used for interlinings.
TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated
1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and width TM96 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven and
directions for those properties where fabric direction is perti- Knitted Textiles Except Wool
nent. TM116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crock-
meter Method
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
TM124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
Home Launderings
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
TM132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laun-
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
dering
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor-
TM172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach in
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
Home Laundering
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
TM188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
Home Laundering
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
EP1 Gray Scale For Color Change
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
EP2 Gray Scale for Staining
EP8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale
2. Referenced Documents
M11 A Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology
2.1 ASTM Standards: 5
2.3 Federal Standard:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
16 CFR 1610, Chapter II—Consumer Product Safety Com-
D2594 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics
mission Subchapter D—Flammable Fabrics Act Regula-
Having Low Power
tions
D2724 Test Method for Bond Strength of Bonded, Fused,
2.4 Military Standard:
and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-
D3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile
spection by Attributes
Fabrics—Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this performance specification
D3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—
give only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or
Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
other test methods. The current editions of each test method cited shall
prevail.
This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee
D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
Apparel. www.astm.org.
Current edition approved Nov. 1, 2022. Published November 2022. Originally AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of Textile
approved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 2014 as D4119 – 14. DOI: Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC
10.1520/D4119-22. 27709, http://www.aatcc.org.
2 5
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,
contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Washington, DC 20402.
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on AvailablefromStandardizationDocumentsOrderDesk,Bldg.4SectionD,700
the ASTM website. Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D4119−22
3. Terminology 5.2 Itisrecognizedthatforpurposesoffashionoraesthetics
the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may
3.1 For all terminology related toApparel, see Terminology
find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the
D7022.
requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:
requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified upon agree-
dimensional change; pressing and finishing.
ment between the purchaser and the seller.
3.2 FordefinitionsofallothertextiletermsseeTerminology
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall
D123.
specify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D4119
except for the following characteristic(s).”
3.3 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing,
refer to specific AATCC test method, or the Glossary of
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached
AATCC Standard Terminology.
between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of
3.4 Definitions of terms found in a dictionary of common controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to
be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer
terms are suitable for this performance specification.
demands dictate varying performance parameters for any
4. Specification Requirements
particular style of fabric.
4.1 The properties of fabrics for men’s and boy’s knitted
5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties and
dress shirts shall conform to the specification requirements in
methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the
Table 1.
specified methods.
5. Significance and Use
6. Sampling
5.1 Upon agreement between the purchaser and the seller,
6.1 LotSample—Asalotsampleforacceptancetesting,take
fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the
at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicable
requirements listed in Table 1 of this performance specifica-
specification or other agreement between the purchaser and the
tion.
supplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements
6.2 Laboratory Sample—From each roll or piece in the lot
sample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabric
NOTE 1—Grade in a,b,c and SA is based on a numerical scale of 5 for
and at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.
negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 for very
severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating in
Table 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable. 7. Test Method (See Note 1)
Characteristic Requirements Section
7.1 Bursting Strength—Determine the bursting strength, in
Bursting strength (load) (ball burst) 222 N (50 lbf) 7.1
the standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in Test
Dimensional change:
Method D3787 using an approved type of constant-rate-of-
Pressing and finishing 2 % max 7.2.1
After 5 launderings (see 7.2.2.2 if 3 % max 7.2.2 traverse (CRT) machine equipped with a bursting attachment
shrinkage exceeds 3%)
or Test Method D3786 using an approved type of diaphragm
After 3 drycleanings 3 % max 7.2.3
bursting tester as agreed upon between the purchaser and the
Growth 3 % max 7.2.4
Colorfastness: seller.
Burnt gas fumes—2 cycles:
A
Shade change, original fabric Grade 4 ,min 7.3.1 NOTE 2—Th
...

This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation: D4119 − 14 D4119 − 22
Standard Performance Specification for
Men’s and Boys’ Knitted Dress Shirt Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4119; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabrics comprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers, used in men’s and
boy’s dress shirts.
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to knitted fabrics used for interlinings.
1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility
of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety safety, health, and healthenvironmental practices and determine the
applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization
established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued
by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D2594 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having Low Power
D2724 Test Method for Bond Strength of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
D3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile Fabrics—Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method
D3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel (Withdrawn 2022)
2.2 AATCC Methods:
8TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method
15TM15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
16.3TM16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc
23TM23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
61TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated
96TM96 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven and Knitted Textiles Except Wool
This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2014Nov. 1, 2022. Published March 2014November 2022. Originally approved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 20082014 as
D4119 – 01D4119 – 14.(2008). DOI: 10.1520/D4119-14.10.1520/D4119-22.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.
AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709,
http://www.aatcc.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D4119 − 22
116TM116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method
124TM124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Launderings
132TM132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
135TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering
172TM172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
188TM188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering
Evaluation Procedure No. 1EP1 Gray Scale For Color Change
Evaluation Procedure No. 2EP2 Gray Scale for Staining
Evaluation Procedure No. 8EP8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale
M11 A Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology
2.3 Federal Standard:
16 CFR, CFR 1610, Chapter II—Consumer Product Safety Commission Subchapter D—Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations
2.4 Military Standard:
MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this performance specification give only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test
methods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.
3. Terminology
3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel, see Terminology D7022.
3.1.1 The following term isterms are relevant to this standard: dimensional change.change; pressing and finishing.
3.2 For definitions of all other textile terms see Terminology D123.
3.3 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing, refer to specific AATCC test method, or the Glossary of AATCC
Standard Terminology.
3.4 Definitions of terms found in a dictionary of common terms are suitable for this performance specification.
3.5 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
3.5.1 pressing and finishing—this term takes into account all of the industrial pressing and finishing treatments used in garment
production.
NOTE 2—No method is available for reproducing on a laboratory level the results of industrial press or finishing treatments, or both, used in the
manufacture of garments.
4. Specification Requirements
4.1 The properties of fabrics for men’s and boy’s knitted dress shirts shall conform to the specification requirements in Table 1.
5. Significance and Use
5.1 Upon agreement between the purchaser and the seller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the requirements
listed in Table 1 of this performance specification.
5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find
acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in
Table 1 may be modified upon agreement between the purchaser and the seller.
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D4119 except
for the following characteristic(s).”
Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.
Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.
D4119 − 22
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements
NOTE 1—Grade in a,b,c and SA is based on a numerical scale of 5 for
negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 for very
severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating in
Table 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.
Characteristic Requirements Section
Bursting strength (load) (ball burst) 222 N (50 lbf) 7.1
Dimensional change:
Pressing and finishing 2 % max 7.2.1
After 5 launderings (see 7.2.2.2 if 3 % max 7.2.2
shrinkage exceeds 3%)
After 3 drycleanings 3 % max 7.2.3
Growth 3 % max 7.2.4
Colorfastness:
Burnt gas fumes—2 cycles:
A
Shade change, original fabric Grade 4 , min 7.3.1
A
Shade change after 1 laundering Grade 4 , min
or
1 drycleaning
E
Laundering:
A
Shade change Grade 4 , min 7.3.2
B
Grade 3 , min
Staining
Drycleaning:
A
Shade change Grade 4 , min 7.3.3
E
Crocking:
C
Dry Grade 4 , min 7.3.4
C
Grade 3 , min
Wet
E
Perspiration:
A
Shade change Grade 4 , min 7.3.5
B
Grade 3 , min
Staining
A
Light (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Grade 4 , min 7.3.6
A
Light (20 AFUs) (xenon-arc) Grade 4 , min 7.3.6
A
Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4 , min 7.3.7
A
Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4 , min 7.3.8
D
Fabric smoothness appearance (see SA 3.5 , min 7.4
Pass
7.4.1) 7.5
Flammability
D
Fabric smoothness appearance (see SA 3.5 , min 7.4
Class 1
7.4.1) 7.5
Flammability
A
AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.
B
AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.
C
AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.
D
For durable press fabrics only.
E
See Note 8.
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of controversy, the
requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictat
...