ASTM D3990-99(2004)
(Terminology)Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
SCOPE
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related material are given under the most frequently used terms; synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.
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Designation:D3990–99 (Reapproved 2004)
Standard Terminology Relating to
Fabric Defects
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3990; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. Scope bias—See skew.
birdseye, n—in knitted fabrics, an unintentional tuck stitch.
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit
blanket mark—See sanforizing mark.
fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related
blotch, n—an offcolored area of any shape caused by grease or
material are given under the most frequently used terms;
oil. (Syn. oil spot)
synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.
bow, n—a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or
2. Terminology
knitting courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to
the selvages and form one or more arcs across the width of
2.1 Definitions:
fabric. (See also double bow)
abrasion mark, n—an area damaged by friction. (Syn. chafe
bow, double—See double bow.
mark)
box mark—See shuttle mark.
apron mark—See decating mark.
break-out—See smash.
baggy cloth—See wavy cloth.
broken end, n—in woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction
baggy selvage—See slack selvage.
due to yarn breakage.
balling up—See fuzz ball.
broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or
barré, n—an unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of con-
more filaments. (Syn. strip back, skin back)
tinuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of
broken pick, n—in woven fabrics, a discontinuity in the filling
woven fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric.
direction caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.
(Compare warp streak, mixed filling)
DISCUSSION—The term “barré” is sometimes used as a synonym for
“warp streaks” in warp knit and woven fabrics. Barré can be caused by
physical, optical, or dye differences in the yarns, geometric differences
in the fabric structure, or by any combination of these differences.
broken selvage—See cut selvage.
bruise, n—in fabrics, an area that has been subjected to impact
or pressure, that differs from the adjacent normal fabric.
(Syn. pressure mark.)
bunch—See slug.
beaded selvage—See loopy selvage.
chafe mark—See abrasion mark.
clip mark, n—a visual deformation near the edge of a fabric
parallel with the lengthwise direction caused by pressure
exerted by a clasping device on a clip tenter frame. (See also
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,
pin mark.)
General.
coarse end, n—a larger than normal diameter warp end. (Syn.
Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2004. Published November 2004. Originally
heavy end) (Compare fine end)
approved as an appendix to Terminology D 123 in 1964. Redesignated D 3990 in
1981. Last previous edition approved in 1999 as D 3990 – 99. coarse filling—See coarse pick.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D3990–99 (2004)
finished goods after folding.
coarse pick, n—in woven fabrics, one or more picks of larger
diameterthanthenormalfillingyarninthefabric.(Syn.thick
curl—See kink.
filling)
curled selvage, n—self-descriptive. (Syn. rolled selvage,
cockles, n—in yarns, irregular thick, uneven, lumps.
turned-over edge)
color bleeding, n—the loss of color from a dyed fabric when
cut pick—See broken pick.
immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid
cut selvage, n—cuts or breaks that occur in the selvage only.
medium, with consequent coloring of the liquid medium.
(Syn. broken selvage, damaged selvage)
(Compare color staining.)
damaged selvage—See cut selvage.
color staining, n—the undesired pickup of color by a fabric:
dead cotton, n—a small nep of cotton fibers which is gathered
(1) when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar
on the surface of the fabric and which is different in color
liquid medium, that contains dyestuffs or coloring material
from the surrounding fabric.
not intended for coloring the fabric, or (2) by direct contact
decating mark, n—a crease mark or impression extending
with other dyed material from which color is transferred by
across the cloth near the beginning or end of a piece due to
bleeding or sublimation. (Compare crocking, color bleed-
the thickness of the fabric leader seam. (Syn. apron mark,
ing)
leader mark)
corded selvage—See loopy selvage.
doctor streak, n—in printed cloth, a wavy white or colored
crack mark, n—an open place causing a streak of variable
streak in the warp direction of printed cloth caused by a
length approximately parallel to the length or width. (Syn.
defective doctor blade.
open place, thin spot)
double bow, n—two fabric bows, arcing in the same direction,
as in a flattened M or W depending on the viewing angle.
(See also bow) (Compare double reverse bow)
double hooked bow, n—one hooked bow at each side of the
fabric that arc in opposite directions. (See also hooked bow)
double pick, n—in woven fabrics, two picks wrongly placed in
the same shed. (See also mispick) (Compare jerk-in)
double reverse bow, n—two fabric bows arcing in opposite
directions. (See also bow) (Compare double bow)
draw-back, n—a weave distortion characterized by tight and
slack places in the same warp yarn. (Syn. hitch-back)
dropped stitch, n—in knitted fabrics, an unknitted stitch.
dye spot—See dyestain.
crease, n—a fabric defect evidenced by a break, line, or mark
dyestain, n—an area of unintended discoloration due to
generally caused by a sharp fold. (Syn. mill wrinkle)
uneven absorption of a colorant.
crease mark, n—a visible deformation left in a fabric after a
dye streak, n—an unintended irregular stripe in a fabric due to
creasehasbeenincompletelyremovedduringfabricprocess-
uneven absorption of a colorant.
ing.
end out, n—a void caused by a missing warp yarn. (Syn.
crocking, n—a transfer of color from the surface of a colored
missing end)
fabric to an adjacent area of the same fabric or to another
surface principally by rubbing action. (Compare color stain-
ing)
filling band, n—in woven fabrics, a visual defect across the
width due to a change occurring in the yarn for a large
number of picks. (Compare filling bar)
crowsfeet, n—in fabrics, fine wrinkles of varying degrees of
filling bar, n—in woven fabrics, a visual defect across the
intensity, size, and shape.
width which contains a limited number of picks of different
DISCUSSION—Crowsfeet may occur during wet processing and on appearance than normal. (Compare filling band)
D3990–99 (2004)
fuzz ball, n—loose and frayed fibers that have formed into a
ball and have then been woven or knitted into the fabric.
(Syn. lint ball, snow ball) (Compare pills)
fuzzy, adj—characterized by a hairy appearance due to pro-
truding broken fibers or filaments. (Syn. hairy)
filling run-out—See broken pick.
fine end, n.—a smaller than normal diameter warp end. (Syn.
light end, thin end) (Compare coarse end)
fine filling—See thin filling.
fine pick—See thin filling.
gout, n—foreign matter trapped in a fabric by accident, usually
finger mark, n—an irregular spot showing variation in picks
lint or waste. (See also slug)
per inch for a limited width.
hairy—See fuzzy.
finishing bar, n—an uneven appearance across the entire
hang pick, n—a pick, caught on a warp yarn knot for a short
fabric width.
distance, producing a triangular-shaped hole in the fabric.
float, n—a defect in which warp or filling yarn extends
(Syn. hang shot)
unbound over the ends with which it should be interlaced.
(Syn. harness skip, overshot, skip)
hang shot—See hang pick.
flyer—See loom fly.
hard end—See tight twist end.
frosting, n—a change in color in a limited area of a fabric
hard size, n—sections of cloth containing an excessive quan-
caused by abrasive wear.
tity of sizing. (Syn. starch lump)
harness skip—See float.
DISCUSSION—Frosting may be the result of differential wear, as in
multicomponent blends in which the fibers do not match in shade, or of
heavy end—See coarse end.
the abrasion of single-fiber constructions in which there is some
heavy filling—See coarse pick.
variation in penetration, or incomplete penetration, of dye-stuff. The
heavy pick—See coarse pick.
use of the terms “differential wear” and “fibrillation” as substitutes for
the concept of frosting is undesirable. hitch-back—See draw-back.
D3990–99 (2004)
hole, n—in fabric, an imperfection where one or more yarns misdraw—See wrong draw.
are sufficiently damaged to create an aperture.
mispick, n—in woven fabrics, a pick not properly interlaced
hooked bow, n—a fabric condition in which the filling or
which causes a break in the weave pattern. (Syn. wrong pick)
course yarns are in the proper position for most of the fabric
(See also double pick)
width but are pulled out of alignment at one side of the
fabric. (See also double hooked bow)
jerk-in, n—in woven fabric, an extra filling thread dragged
into the shed with the regular pick and extending only part of
the way across the cloth. (Syn. lash-in, pull-in) (Compare
double pick)
kink, n—in fabric, a short length of yarn that has spontane-
ously doubled back on itself to form a loop. (Syn. curl, kinky
thread, looped yarn, snarl)
misprint, n—in printed fabric, colors or patterns, or both,
either missed, or partially missed, or incorrectly positioned
relative to each other.
misregister, n—in printed fabric, colors or patterns not cor-
rectly positioned. (Compare misprint.)
missing end—See end out.
missing pick—See broken pick.
miss-knit, n—in knitted fabrics, a deviation from the desig-
kinky thread—See kink.
nated knitting pattern.
ladder—See run.
mixed end, n—in woven fabrics, a warp yarn differing from
lash-in—See jerk-in.
that normally being used in the fabric.
leader mark—See decating mark.
mixed filling, n—in woven fabrics, a filling yarn differing from
let-off mark, n—in woven f
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