ASTM D3990-99(2008)
(Terminology)Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
SCOPE
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related material are given under the most frequently used terms; synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation:D3990–99 (Reapproved 2008)
Standard Terminology Relating to
Fabric Defects
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3990; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. Scope beaded selvage—See loopy selvage.
bias—See skew.
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit
birdseye, n—in knitted fabrics, an unintentional tuck stitch.
fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related
blanket mark—See sanforizing mark.
material are given under the most frequently used terms;
blotch, n—an offcolored area of any shape caused by grease or
synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.
oil. (Syn. oil spot)
2. Terminology
bow, n—a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or
knitting courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to
2.1 Definitions:
the selvages and form one or more arcs across the width of
abrasion mark, n—an area damaged by friction. (Syn. chafe
fabric. (See also double bow)
mark)
bow, double—See double bow.
apron mark—See decating mark.
box mark—See shuttle mark.
baggy cloth—See wavy cloth.
break-out—See smash.
baggy selvage—See slack selvage.
broken end, n—in woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction
balling up—See fuzz ball.
due to yarn breakage.
barré, n—an unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of con-
broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or
tinuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of
more filaments. (Syn. strip back, skin back)
woven fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric.
broken pick, n—in woven fabrics, a discontinuity in the filling
(Compare warp streak, mixed filling)
direction caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.
DISCUSSION—The term “barré” is sometimes used as a synonym for
“warp streaks” in warp knit and woven fabrics. Barré can be caused by
physical, optical, or dye differences in the yarns, geometric differences
in the fabric structure, or by any combination of these differences.
broken selvage—See cut selvage.
bruise, n—in fabrics, an area that has been subjected to impact
or pressure, that differs from the adjacent normal fabric.
(Syn. pressure mark.)
bunch—See slug.
chafe mark—See abrasion mark.
1 clip mark, n—a visual deformation near the edge of a fabric
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
parallel with the lengthwise direction caused by pressure
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,
General.
exerted by a clasping device on a clip tenter frame. (See also
Current edition approved July 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originally
pin mark.)
approved as an appendix to Terminology D123 in 1964. Redesignated D3990 in
coarse end, n—a larger than normal diameter warp end. (Syn.
1981. Last previous edition approved in 2004 as D3990 – 99 (2004). DOI:
10.1520/D3990-99R08. heavy end) (Compare fine end)
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D3990–99 (2008)
coarse filling—See coarse pick. curl—See kink.
coarse pick, n—in woven fabrics, one or more picks of larger
curled selvage, n—self-descriptive. (Syn. rolled selvage,
diameterthanthenormalfillingyarninthefabric.(Syn.thick
turned-over edge)
filling)
cut pick—See broken pick.
cockles, n—in yarns, irregular thick, uneven, lumps.
cut selvage, n—cuts or breaks that occur in the selvage only.
color bleeding, n—the loss of color from a dyed fabric when
(Syn. broken selvage, damaged selvage)
immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid
damaged selvage—See cut selvage.
medium, with consequent coloring of the liquid medium.
dead cotton, n—a small nep of cotton fibers which is gathered
(Compare color staining.)
on the surface of the fabric and which is different in color
color staining, n—the undesired pickup of color by a fabric:
(1) when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar from the surrounding fabric.
liquid medium, that contains dyestuffs or coloring material
decating mark, n—a crease mark or impression extending
not intended for coloring the fabric, or (2) by direct contact
across the cloth near the beginning or end of a piece due to
with other dyed material from which color is transferred by
the thickness of the fabric leader seam. (Syn. apron mark,
bleeding or sublimation. (Compare crocking, color bleed-
leader mark)
ing)
doctor streak, n—in printed cloth, a wavy white or colored
corded selvage—See loopy selvage.
streak in the warp direction of printed cloth caused by a
crack mark, n—an open place causing a streak of variable
defective doctor blade.
length approximately parallel to the length or width. (Syn.
double bow, n—two fabric bows, arcing in the same direction,
open place, thin spot)
as in a flattened M or W depending on the viewing angle.
(See also bow) (Compare double reverse bow)
double hooked bow, n—one hooked bow at each side of the
fabric that arc in opposite directions. (See also hooked bow)
double pick, n—in woven fabrics, two picks wrongly placed in
the same shed. (See also mispick) (Compare jerk-in)
double reverse bow, n—two fabric bows arcing in opposite
directions. (See also bow) (Compare double bow)
draw-back, n—a weave distortion characterized by tight and
slack places in the same warp yarn. (Syn. hitch-back)
dropped stitch, n—in knitted fabrics, an unknitted stitch.
dye spot—See dyestain.
crease, n—a fabric defect evidenced by a break, line, or mark
generally caused by a sharp fold. (Syn. mill wrinkle) dyestain, n—an area of unintended discoloration due to
crease mark, n—a visible deformation left in a fabric after a uneven absorption of a colorant.
creasehasbeenincompletelyremovedduringfabricprocess-
dye streak, n—an unintended irregular stripe in a fabric due to
ing.
uneven absorption of a colorant.
crocking, n—a transfer of color from the surface of a colored
end out, n—a void caused by a missing warp yarn. (Syn.
fabric to an adjacent area of the same fabric or to another
missing end)
surface principally by rubbing action. (Compare color stain-
ing)
filling band, n—in woven fabrics, a visual defect across the
width due to a change occurring in the yarn for a large
crowsfeet, n—in fabrics, fine wrinkles of varying degrees of
number of picks. (Compare filling bar)
intensity, size, and shape.
filling bar, n—in woven fabrics, a visual defect across the
width which contains a limited number of picks of different
DISCUSSION—Crowsfeet may occur during wet processing and on
finished goods after folding. appearance than normal. (Compare filling band)
D3990–99 (2008)
fuzz ball, n—loose and frayed fibers that have formed into a
ball and have then been woven or knitted into the fabric.
(Syn. lint ball, snow ball) (Compare pills)
fuzzy, adj—characterized by a hairy appearance due to pro-
truding broken fibers or filaments. (Syn. hairy)
filling run-out—See broken pick.
fine end, n.—a smaller than normal diameter warp end. (Syn.
light end, thin end) (Compare coarse end)
fine filling—See thin filling.
fine pick—See thin filling.
gout, n—foreign matter trapped in a fabric by accident, usually
finger mark, n—an irregular spot showing variation in picks
lint or waste. (See also slug)
per inch for a limited width.
hairy—See fuzzy.
finishing bar, n—an uneven appearance across the entire
hang pick, n—a pick, caught on a warp yarn knot for a short
fabric width.
distance, producing a triangular-shaped hole in the fabric.
float, n—a defect in which warp or filling yarn extends
(Syn. hang shot)
unbound over the ends with which it should be interlaced.
(Syn. harness skip, overshot, skip)
hang shot—See hang pick.
flyer—See loom fly.
hard end—See tight twist end.
frosting, n—a change in color in a limited area of a fabric
hard size, n—sections of cloth containing an excessive quan-
caused by abrasive wear.
tity of sizing. (Syn. starch lump)
harness skip—See float.
DISCUSSION—Frosting may be the result of differential wear, as in
multicomponent blends in which the fibers do not match in shade, or of
heavy end—See coarse end.
the abrasion of single-fiber constructions in which there is some
heavy filling—See coarse pick.
variation in penetration, or incomplete penetration, of dye-stuff. The
heavy pick—See coarse pick.
use of the terms “differential wear” and “fibrillation” as substitutes for
the concept of frosting is undesirable. hitch-back—See draw-back.
D3990–99 (2008)
hole, n—in fabric, an imperfection where one or more yarns misdraw—See wrong draw.
are sufficiently damaged to create an aperture.
mispick, n—in woven fabrics, a pick not properly interlaced
hooked bow, n—a fabric condition in which the filling or
which causes a break in the weave pattern. (Syn. wrong pick)
course yarns are in the proper position for most of the fabric
(See also double pick)
width but are pulled out of alignment at one side of the
fabric. (See also double hooked bow)
jerk-in, n—in woven fabric, an extra filling thread dragged
into the shed with the regular pick and extending only part of
the way across the cloth. (Syn. lash-in, pull-in) (Compare
double pick)
kink, n—in fabric, a short length of yarn that has spontane-
ously doubled back on itself to form a loop. (Syn. curl, kinky
thread, looped yarn, snarl)
misprint, n—in printed fabric, colors or patterns, or both,
either missed, or partially missed, or incorrectly positioned
relative to each other.
misregister, n—in printed fabric, colors or patterns not cor-
rectly positioned. (Compare misprint.)
missing end—See end out.
missing pick—See broken pick.
miss-knit, n—in knitted fabrics, a deviation from the desig-
kinky thread—See kink.
nated knitting pattern.
ladder—See run.
mixed end, n—in woven fabrics, a warp yarn differing from
lash-in—See jerk-in.
that normally being used in the fabric.
leader mark—See decating mark.
mixed filling, n—in woven fabrics, a filling yarn differing from
let-off mark
...
Questions, Comments and Discussion
Ask us and Technical Secretary will try to provide an answer. You can facilitate discussion about the standard in here.