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ASTM D2817-18

(Specification)

Standard Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere

Standard Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere

ABSTRACT
This specification sets the maximum permissible cashmere coarse-hair content in cashmere in the form of roving, yarn, or fabric. Single standard testing for the determination of the cashmere coarse-hair content shall be enough. In case of dispute, additional tests may be done.
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
4.1 This specification sets the maximum permissible cashmere coarse-hair content for cashmere in the form of roving, yarn, or fabric.  
4.2 When agreed upon by parties in interest, this specification provides a basis for acceptance testing of roving, yarn, or fabric of cashmere, or blends of cashmere and other fibers in such products.
SCOPE
1.1 This specification covers the allowable cashmere coarse-hair content in cashmere which has been processed at least to the roving stage.  
1.2 For blends of cashmere hair and other fibers, this specification is applicable only to the cashmere hair content of such blends.  
Note 1: For the determination of the cashmere coarse-hair content in cashmere, refer to Test Method D2816. For the identification of textile fibers see Methods D276. For the quantitative determination of the composition of textile blends, see Test Methods D629.  
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

General Information

Status
Published
Publication Date
30-Jun-2018
ICS
59.060.10 - Natural fibres
Technical Committee
D13 - Textiles
Drafting Committee
D13.13 - Wool and Felt
Current Stage
Ref Project

Relations

Refers
ASTM D123-15a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
Effective Date
01-Sep-2015
Refers
ASTM D629-15 - Standard Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
Effective Date
01-Feb-2015
Refers
ASTM D123-15 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
Effective Date
01-Apr-2015
Refers
ASTM D123-17 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
Effective Date
01-Mar-2017
Refers
ASTM D123-15b - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
Effective Date
15-Sep-2015
Refers
ASTM D4845-10(2018) - Standard Terminology Relating to Wool
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Referred By
ASTM D2816-18 - Standard Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018

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ASTM D2817-18 - Standard Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in CashmereASTM D2817-18 - Standard Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
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ASTM D2817-18 - Standard Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
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Standards Content (Sample)

This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation:D2817 −18
Standard Specification for
1
Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in Cashmere
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D2817; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3. Terminology
1.1 This specification covers the allowable cashmere 3.1 For all terminology relating to D13.13, Wool and Wool
coarse-hair content in cashmere which has been processed at Felt, refer to Terminology D4845.
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this specification:
least to the roving stage.
cashmere, coarse hair, cashmere coarse hair content, cashmere
1.2 For blends of cashmere hair and other fibers, this
down, cashmere hair.
specification is applicable only to the cashmere hair content of
such blends. 3.2 For all other terminology related to textiles, see Termi-
nology D123.
NOTE 1—For the determination of the cashmere coarse-hair content in
cashmere, refer to Test Method D2816. For the identification of textile
4. Significance and Use
fibers see Methods D276. For the quantitative determination of the
composition of textile blends, see Test Methods D629.
4.1 This specification sets the maximum permissible cash-
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the
mere coarse-hair content for cashmere in the form of roving,
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
yarn, or fabric.
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
4.2 When agreed upon by parties in interest, this specifica-
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
tion provides a basis for acceptance testing of roving, yarn, or
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
fabric of cashmere, or blends of cashmere and other fibers in
1.4 This international standard was developed in accor-
such products.
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
5. Specification for Cashmere
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
5.1 The cashmere coarse-hair content of cashmere in the
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
form of roving, yarn, or fabric shall not exceed 0.7 % by
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
length.
2. Referenced Documents NOTE 2—Extensive interlaboratory tests have shown that when the
cashmere coarse-hair content exceeds 0.7 % by length, the corresponding
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
percentage by mass of cashmere coarse-hair in the product generally
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
exceeds 3.0 %. The data from these studies are filed with the secretary of
Subcommittee D13.13, Comm
...

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ASTM D1576-22(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Moisture in Wool by Oven-Drying

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D2462 for the determination of the moisture in wool by distillation with toluene is the preferred method for testing wool for moisture for the acceptance testing of commercial shipments. If, however, the purchaser and the supplier agree, Test Method D1576 for the determination of the moisture in wool by oven drying may be used instead. Comparative tests as directed in 5.1.1, may be advisable.  
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5.2 This test method is a simple and convenient method for routine process control, in-plant evaluation, estimation of moisture content of a lot of wool, or any other purpose for which a high degree of reproducibility is not necessary (see Section 13).
SCOPE
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ASTM D1294-22(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Tensile Strength and Breaking Tenacity of Wool Fiber Bundles 1-in. (25.4 mm) Gage Length

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SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the breaking force (or load) and estimation of the tensile strength and tenacity of wool fiber bundles with a 1-in. (25.4 mm) gage length. A procedure for preparation of the fiber bundle is included.  
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5.1 This test method specifies a sampling and testing procedure for the measurement of average fiber diameter and variation in diameter of animal fibers as required in Test Method D2968.  
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SCOPE
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ASTM D2524-22(Test Method)
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
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5.4 As the observed tenacity of fibers depends in part on the type of tensile testing machine used and the time required to break the specimen, results obtained with the different types of machines which may be used in this method will not necessarily agree. The machines specifically designed for bundle testing are CRL testers which operate at a loading rate of 1 kgf/s and therefore reach the breaking force at variable times in the order of 5 s. CRE and CRT type machines would be expected to produce somewhat different results not only because of the inherent difference in operation but because CRE and CRT type machines are to be operated at a rate to ac...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the breaking tenacity of wool fibers as a flat bundle with a 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) clamp separation.  
1.2 This test method is especially adapted to the fiber bundle clamps and strength testing instruments specified, but may be used on other tensile testing machines when equipped with appropriate adapters to accommodate the prescribed clamps.  
1.3 This test method is applicable to wool in any form which can be hand-combed into small bundles of parallelized fibers.  
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ASTM D2462-22(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Moisture in Wool by Distillation With Toluene

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D2462 for testing for moisture in wool is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments since current estimates of between-laboratory precision are acceptable.  
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using Test Method D2462 for acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the supplier should conduct comparative testing to determine if there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of the bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test specimens that are as homogenous as possible and that are from a lot of the type material in question. The test specimens should be assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using Student's t-Test for unpaired data and an acceptance probability level chosen by the two parties before the test is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results in light of the known bias.  
5.2 This test method is the preferred method for all suitable samples of wool where it is important to obtain a result free from the possible biases, introduced by the conditions discussed in 5.3 and 5.4.  
5.3 This test method is free from the interferences caused by different conditions of ambient atmosphere such as might affect the results of oven-drying. A slight amount of residual moisture may be retained in a specimen subjected to oven-drying because of the relative humidity of the ambient air; however, the amount of moisture retained may be estimated from published data.3  
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SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount of moisture present in grease wool, scoured wool, carded wool, garnetted wool, wool top and intermediate wool products, and rovings, by distillation with toluene.  
1.2 Equations are given for calculating the amount of water present as moisture content (as-received basis) and moisture regain (dry fiber) basis. The term that corresponds to the basis used in the calculation and report must always be stated.  
1.3 This test method is not applicable to material known to contain any steam-distillable, water-soluble matter. If it is suspected that such matter is present, the method should be used with caution.  
1.4 Xylene or other solvents should not be substituted for toluene as no other solvents have been evaluated for use in this standard.  
Note 1: The determination of moisture in wool by oven-drying is covered in Test Method D1576 and for textile materials in general in Test Methods D2654. A method for sampling wool for the determination of moisture in wool is covered in Practice D2525.  
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.For specific safety hazard statements, see Section 8.  
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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ASTM D1574-22(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Extractable Matter in Wool and Other Animal Fibers

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D1574 is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing since the method has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing.  
5.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using Test Method D1574 for acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the supplier should conduct comparative tests to determine if there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test specimens that are as homogeneous as possible and that are from a lot of material of the type in question. The test specimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using Student's t-test for unpaired data and an acceptable probability level chosen by the two parties before the testing is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results in the light of the known bias.  
5.2 This test method may be used to estimate the quantity of oil, grease, and waxy materials remaining on or in wool fibers after scouring, or the quantity of lubricant added before carding or remaining after carding, or the quantity of such materials added or removed in subsequent processing operations.  
5.3 The residues obtained in this test may be subjected to chemical analysis for identification and assay of the component materials, if desired.  
5.4 The specified solvent in this test method does not remove some materials, such as soaps, that may be present in wool and hence in some cases may reflect more closely the added content of some extractables in wool such as oils. When such materials are present and an estimate of their quantity is desired, some other solvent or combination of solvents should be used as spec...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount of extractable matter in samples of all forms of wool, except grease wool, that is extractable with a non-flammable vapor degreasing and cleaning solvent.  
1.2 This test method does not cover the determination of the amounts of different components in the extracted matter nor their identification.  
1.3 This test method is suitable for use with other animal fibers.  
Note 1: The determination of extractable matter in yarns and in felts is covered in Test Methods D2257 and D461. For the determination of alcohol-extractable matter in oven-dry scoured wool, refer to Test Methods D584 and D1334.  
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard.  
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. See 5.4 and Note 3.  
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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ASTM D2525-22(Practice)
Standard Practice for Sampling Wool for Moisture

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 This recommended practice furnishes directions for the sampling of wool of the various forms indicated in Section 1, in order that correct probability statements may be made about the relationship between the sample mean and the population mean. If these statements are to be correct, certain conditions, which are stated, must hold.  
5.2 This recommended practice requires that a deliberate act of randomization be performed so that all potential sampling units have approximately the same chance of being taken and no sampling unit is deprived of its chance of being taken.  
5.3 In any case where insufficient information about the variability of the sampling units within the lot is available, directions are given for calculating confidence limits for the sample mean so that a correct probability statement can still be made.
SCOPE
1.1 This practice covers the design of a sampling plan to be used to obtain samples for the determination of the moisture content of grease wool, scoured wool, carded wool, garnetted wool, wool top and intermediate products, and rovings.  
1.2 Directions are given for the designation of sampling units, calculation of the number of sampling units required to achieve a preselected precision and confidence level or, alternatively, for calculating the confidence limits for the mean based on the variability of the sample tested.  
Note 1: This practice for devising a sampling plan is intended for use in connection with Test Method D1576 or Test Method D2462. The sampling of raw wool for the determination of clean wool fiber present is covered in Practice D1060.  
1.3 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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ASTM D6961/D6961M-09(2021)(Test Method)
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
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SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the instrumental color measurement of flax fiber.  
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1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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ASTM D8394-21(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Automated Measurement of Maturity, Fineness, Ribbon Width, and Micronaire of Cotton Fibers

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Cotton fiber that is on average finer and more mature is more desirable than coarse or immature fiber, although distinction between these qualities cannot be made quickly and accurately using current test methods. Immature fibers break more easily during processing and have a tendency to form into neps (small entanglements) during processing in the spinning mill. These consequences adversely affect yarn and fabric quality and appearance. Yarn and fabric produced from immature fiber is typically also less lustrous and does not take up dye consistently so yarn and fabric appearance may be different after dyeing.  
5.2 Maturity has a high positive correlation with fiber length and strength but genetic differences and differences in fiber wall thickness caused by plant diseases, soil, and water conditions during the growing season interfere with this relationship.  
5.2.1 Fine fibers are required for fine count yarn manufacture and fiber fineness affects yarn count, evenness and strength. Both fineness and ribbon width are strong genetic traits evident between species and affected by growing conditions within species.  
5.2.2 Micronaire has traditionally been used as a measure of fiber fineness although the value actually measures fiber specific surface area or surface area per unit weight. As a result, micronaire varies concomitantly with both maturity and fineness (see Fig. 2). Maturity and fineness are related to micronaire via Lord’s equation.4
FIG. 2 Relationship Between Micronaire (X), Fineness (H), and Maturity (M)  
5.3 Cottonscope values have been judged against fineness, maturity and ribbon width values produced by examination of thousands of individual, magnified fiber cross-sections. Relationships with equivalent values by these and other older test methods are highly significant5,6 particularly if the number of cross-sections analyzed is high (>3000) and the cross-sections are carefully prepared and measured. Cottonscope measures approximately 20,...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of linear density (gravimetric fineness hereafter stated as fineness), maturity, micronaire, and ribbon width of cotton fibers from a loose, chemically untreated sample taken before harvest, during ginning, during mill processing or unraveled from raw (undyed) yarn or fabric.  
1.2 This test method requires the use of an integrated instrument, for example, the Cottonscope (see Fig. 1), that measures the maturity, fineness, ribbon width, and micronaire of cotton fiber.2
FIG. 1 Cottonscope Instrument
Note 1: For another test method to determine the maturity of cotton fibers, refer to Test Method D1442.  
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. No other units of measurement are included in this standard.  
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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